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 1 
 on: Today at 12:07:29 PM 
Started by abl - Last post by Rhys
Very nice looking abl!!! Looking at the initial pic of sagittal fuse, the nose post appears to be tilted a few degrees off vertical towards the ground. Is that to build in down thrust? If so, how much. Looking forward to wood this one being finished Cheesy

Rhys

 2 
 on: Today at 11:50:30 AM 
Started by Pete Fardell - Last post by Rhys
Expertly executed, Pete   Grin  You've decided my Christmas wish list. I want one just like that!!!

Cheers
Rhys

 3 
 on: Today at 09:31:27 AM 
Started by Pete Fardell - Last post by Pete Fardell
Thank you, John, Jon and John.
Mike S tells me his Fox Moth and Redwing both fly on 4 strands of 3/16, so I’ve now made an equivalent (8 strands of 3/32) and installed it. My motor weighs 11g do probably not as long as Mikes, but it’s about 1.5 x my hook to peg length. Trial winding and run-off all okay, and flydean will be pleased to know I’ve got a winding tube that fits. CG is now on the lower wing’s front spar, so I’ll probably need a bit of nose weight. 95g auw at the mo.
No more excuses left- off to the Velodrome tomorrow!

 4 
 on: Today at 08:48:30 AM 
Started by dputt7 - Last post by billdennis747
Hi Dave. Andrew Hewitt did one for diesel and it usually went very well. I gather it's on Outerzone
Bill
PS have you flown any of what now must be a large backlog of spectacular models?!

 5 
 on: Today at 08:45:44 AM 
Started by dputt7 - Last post by randoloid
Beautiful work so far.  I'll be following this build for sure.  I've wanted to "go big" for quite a while now.  Before i saw this post i was almost certain  I was  gonna build Hank Cole's smoothie @43" .  now not so sure

 6 
 on: Today at 08:32:51 AM 
Started by Maxout - Last post by piecost
I wonder if the kingpost and bracing is a design feature or a fix? The wing looked all foam with carbon tissue leading edge. I could not see a spar. Very interesting

 7 
 on: Today at 08:23:21 AM 
Started by dputt7 - Last post by dputt7
  Time for a new project, I've been thinking about a large Scale rubber Free Flight model for some time and after watching numerous YouTube videos decided it was about time.  As usual it was a 3 view colour drawing from my Brother that was the inspiration, he has always got something of interest to show me on our regular Friday night gettogethers.
     As you can see it's a very simple aircraft with just enough detail to make it interesting. I originally planned to make it 54" span but after enlarging the plan I decided that was just too big so I settled on 45" which works out to 1/8th scale. My main concern was the wing, it tapers from a high point where the struts attach back to the root and also out to the tip, this is a prominent feature and I wanted to employ this. I also wanted to use my own version of the Dave Rees wing, I'd used this in 2010 when I built the Polikarpov TIS and I still had the jig for forming the laminated ribs!  So for the first time ever I started with the wing, after a couple of days enlarging plans and scratching my head I came up with a right hand wing panel that I thing will be acceptable.
    There are lots of things I'm not sure of how I will approach them but as usual I'll work it out as I go.  

 8 
 on: Today at 07:37:32 AM 
Started by abl - Last post by abl
Suggest that you  shrink and dope a piece of white Esaki on a frame.  Spray with your trim colour and then use a straight edge to cut your trim pieces.  Position with a couple of pieces of Tamiya tape and then wick in some RC56 canopy glue thinned with a drop or three of water.  Wipe  / press with a Kleenex tissue.  Once dry you'll never know

Ah!  Smiley

Thank you kindly, sir, I'll do that.

Andy

 9 
 on: Today at 07:36:11 AM 
Started by trmilner - Last post by Skymon
Finished this week.
A rebuild after a stooge accident.
Johns Legal Eagle design - Bar Fly

 10 
 on: Today at 04:33:42 AM 
Started by Maxout - Last post by Skymon
So many interesting things to see in that video it deserves it's own thread...

Interesting glossy TE reinforcement at 18:25 and what looks like a dropped counterweight/skid with bracing wire hanging under the fuse....



 11 
 on: Today at 03:49:53 AM 
Started by whiskers - Last post by whiskers
The Satin Doll is smart. And the Lazy Bee is really cute as you say. I think the Lazy Bee is a real possibility. Thanks all.

 12 
 on: Today at 03:30:43 AM 
Started by whiskers - Last post by whiskers
kayak combat perhaps? Or ,what are the teams thoughts on prop' size for the lusty Sabre to power a 15 ton Narrowboat? I've had to put my boating on hold for a while due to various reasons so attempted start-up may come sooner than I thought. Thanks for all the input guys.

 13 
 on: Today at 03:23:02 AM 
Started by DerekMc - Last post by Yak 52
That does look very much like the banggood one: https://m.banggood.com/Coreless-Reducer-CW-Motor-Propeller-Combo-Set-For-RC-Models-DIY-p-998786.html

I bought it to use the gearbox as a motor mount but did a quick thrust test. I got around 15g on one cell - not great at all. The motor wires were the same, I needed to swap positive and negative to get the correct rotation.  I will test the BG motor on DD too at some point.

Without the gear box it will be massively overpropped and to be honest I'm surprised you're getting any thrust at all  Cheesy if you PM me your address Stephen, I will pop a couple of 65mm props in the post to you (I have loads spare for E20) you should get a lot more thrust with them.

As John suggests by getting the efficiency right a much lighter set up is possible with a 6 or 7mm motor.

Jon

 14 
 on: Today at 03:15:55 AM 
Started by Maxout - Last post by Skymon
the sequence of two flights from 11:50 and 12:34 show just how much the flight times can vary!
Same plane, same flier; one flight over 30 seconds, one under 3 Smiley

Having a consistent launch and flight is a tough job in F1N.  Grin Grin

I know we are a little off topic now but...
Just seeing that many people flying gliders indoor is really inspiring.


Si

 15 
 on: Today at 02:22:01 AM 
Started by abl - Last post by ZK-AUD
Works really well for registration letters

 16 
 on: Today at 02:16:01 AM 
Started by abl - Last post by ZK-AUD
Suggest that you  shrink and dope a piece of white Esaki on a frame.  Spray with your trim colour and then use a straight edge to cut your trim pieces.  Position with a couple of pieces of Tamiya tape and then wick in some RC56 canopy glue thinned with a drop or three of water.  Wipe  / press with a Kleenex tissue.  Once dry you'll never know

 17 
 on: Today at 02:03:51 AM 
Started by LASTWOODSMAN - Last post by dputt7
  Hi Richard
                  Well done, I've missed this development so it was good to follow it through, look forward to seeing the finished model.
                       Dave

 18 
 on: Today at 01:44:47 AM 
Started by TheLurker - Last post by TheLurker
Quote from: abl, dohrmc, OZPAF
...it'd be best to make a new fuselage. IMO, anyway.
...Go with what you got.
...a quick profile test glider

Thanks for those thoughts.  Having had a kip and bearing in mind both other calls on my time and current stocks of suitable sheet I think the plan is to

- Finish off what I've got sans UC and lipstick and see how it flies.

    I have what appears to be a feasible solution for the UC and putting lipstick on this one would be silly given that it is so far off scale but it's still worth building up the empennage to make sure that goes together well and fits correctly.

  Can't see any practical way of adjusting the wing position on the current fuselage.

- Re-do the plan and then build a new fuselage.  

   Given some luck I'll be able to re-use the wing and empennage.

Quote from: abl
I'd find it very difficult to live with ... I doubt that you're similarly afflicted ...
I'm less particular than yourself about detail as my stuff isn't built for scale competition, where detail is important, but leaving aside probable stability issues this is going to look out and out wrong in the air which does not sort well with me at all.


Ructions at The Lurker Industries Aeroplane Company Ltd..
The shop floor staff have just informed the Chief Designer that there is no way on God's Green Earth that anything that wrong is leaving the factory with their name on it. 

or...
I've re-checked sheet stock.  No need to re-order.  There will be a short hiatus while the plan is redrawn and and new parts cut for a new fuselage.

 19 
 on: Today at 12:43:16 AM 
Started by LASTWOODSMAN - Last post by LASTWOODSMAN
     Hi John -  yes, that is what I am leaning towards on the fuse sides and bottom - tan or light brown tissue.  The top of the fuse will be the same white tissue painted orange with the ink marker, and the fin/rudder a slightly darker orange tissue, and the stab will be golden rod yellow tissue with some sort of  feathering for the narrow tail.
     All of the framework, especially in the cockpit area, will be stained a suitable color.  The nose block may have alternating dark and light stain laminations ...

LASTWOODSMAN
Richard

 20 
 on: Today at 12:30:59 AM 
Started by KingDelta5 - Last post by KingDelta5
Hello and thanks OZPAF
 We are much in agreement Smiley
I think I will try the urethane varnish
I just happen to have some !
I appreciate the correspondence
Good day Smiley

 21 
 on: Today at 12:28:37 AM 
Started by abl - Last post by OZPAF
The corrugations on the wing surface look effective.

Wrinkles? Smiley plastic surgery my dear fellow Smiley

John

 22 
 on: Today at 12:19:58 AM 
Started by Ray_K - Last post by OZPAF
Stay with it George Smiley Get back building when you are ready.

John

 23 
 on: Today at 12:17:00 AM 
Started by KingDelta5 - Last post by OZPAF
The SS4 is almost identical to the Buddenbohm Stanfoil mentioned earlier by Victory. The most important aspects from my experience at this size is to have a sharp LE and a fairly forward high point as both these airfoils have.

Quote
I might spray a light coat of dope

Instead of dope try a Polyurethane Varnish. I use a marine Spar Varnish and the trick to achieving a light finish is to rub it on with a paper towel and then immediately wipe it off with clean paper towels. This leaves a thin light sheen which helps to seal the balsa and when dry and sanded with 400 or better gives a very smooth durable finish, which is much lighter than brushed dope.
The one drawback for me is that it can take a couple of days to dry.

John

 24 
 on: Today at 12:07:51 AM 
Started by LASTWOODSMAN - Last post by OZPAF
The sun shining through those wings will look impressive.

What will you do with the fuselage? Light brown tissue?

John

 25 
 on: February 21, 2019, 11:37:48 PM 
Started by LASTWOODSMAN - Last post by LASTWOODSMAN
OSPREY  20"   SPORTS GLIDER   Vintage Model Company laser cut kit

     The only way to stop the ink from flowing through the tissue into a puddle, is to have a sheet of printer paper (not clear plastic), on the other side to absorb the excess ink.
      The color scheme is working out OK.   I just have to decide on a few details more, and make two good, top and bottom, colored tissue patterns for the wing.

Pic #1     1468     The two colored tissue practise Wing panels at the top are done.  The one on the left has got the thicker runnier ink, and the one on the right has the thin ink.   The top of the wing,  at the center fuse  section, will be orange also. 

Pic #2     1467     Here is the wing frames sitting on top of the two painted tissue panels.

Pic #3     1469     Here is what it looks like with both tissue panels on the top and bottom of the fight wing frame.

Pic #4     1471     This is the test fit and look, with both tissue panels held up to the light.    The prime objective now, this spring, is to get a good close up pic of this  20"  OSPREY Glider, in the air, with the sun shining through.    It is time to figure out the tail color pattern also,  and the pilot mount ...   Smiley

LASTWOODSMAN
Richard

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