Builders' Plan Gallery  |  Hip Pocket Web Site  |  Contact Forum Admin  |  Contact Global Moderator
October 21, 2018, 02:49:47 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with email, password and session length
Home Help Search Login Register
Pages: [1] 2 3 4
 on: October 18, 2018, 05:06:58 PM 
Started by ClaudioF1B - Last post by ClaudioF1B
Hello good afternoon. Can you give me some advice, how to trim an f1b for wind. My models are trimmed for calm or little wind. I will appreciate all the help possible.
Greetings and thanks Claudio

 on: October 11, 2018, 10:37:05 PM 
Started by DerekMc - Last post by Dan Snow
I haven''t flown anything yet, but I now have a DHC-1, DHC-2 and DHC-3 ready for their trim flights. The Chipmunk is the 17" Guillows kit, the Beaver is the 30" Dumas kit, and the Otter is from the Pres Bruning plans on Paul Bradley's site and an awesome set of laser cut parts from Dave Cowell at Areowerks.

Today I converted a hand drill to a winder, so no more excuses, I need to find a suitable field with suitable non-breezy conditions and see if these will really fly.

 on: October 11, 2018, 10:10:05 PM 
Started by Olbill - Last post by Dan Snow
Dan -

I am impressed by your diligence and ingenuity.

I have a couple of comments about your winder that might prove helpful.

It is hard to tell the size of your winder, but it looks big enough to wind a 16 x 1/8-inch rubber motor like one would use in a Gollywock.  When you wind, you will need to step out and stretch the rubber motor.  So you need a D-shaped handle to securely hold the winder as the pulling force will be substantial.  See the attached picture of my Merrill winder which has this type of handle.

Also, the .090-inch hook is a little too robust.  I don't think it will fit through the hole in a medium size Crockett hook. You will need to use a Crockett hook or a similar hook on the front end of a multi-strand rubber motor in order to be able to remove the rubber motor from the winder and connect it to the prop shaft hook. I would go with a .062-inch music wire hook on your winder.  

Build a torque meter using the plan from Herb Kothe.  It will cost less than $5 in parts.  Wind to torque.

I took your advice and made a new hook out of .060 music wire. I have heard of the Crockett hook, might have even seen a picture of one, but clueless as to how they are used!
Remember, the Beaver is likely the largest model I will fly, so I don't expect to be trying to wind any throw you over the pickup truck strength motors.  I am planning to do something to increase my grip on the winder, just not sure what yet.  The handle is plastic and appears to be somehow welded/riveted to the frame.

I've been having a lot of fun building, guess it's time to start learning about motors, torque, and that sort of thing. I won't be competing, just flying for fun. Scale is my thing, and it's pretty much non-existent around here.

 on: October 11, 2018, 09:10:00 PM 
Started by Dan Snow - Last post by tom arnold
 My humble suggestion for motor size is based on the prop diameter. An 8" Peck prop needs 4-6 strands of 1/8th rubber (1/2" to 3/4" of combined rubber strand width). For a 7" Peck prop, a motor from 2-4 strands of 1/8th rubber (1/4" to 1/2" of combined rubber width). I can't think of anything other than multiples of 1/8th as 5th grade math can make me look like an idiot. Whatever number of strands of 3/32 reaches those parameters would work. Other guys, I am sure, have different rules of thumb. Good luck in any case.....great looking flyer.

 on: October 11, 2018, 08:34:30 PM 
Started by Mark Braunlich - Last post by FF Bruce
Yes thank you for your hard work, now lets go beat the bushes and flush out a few more coupe fliers.

 on: October 11, 2018, 08:06:17 PM 
Started by Dan Snow - Last post by MKelly
Very nice Dan, look forward to hearing how it flies.


 on: October 11, 2018, 08:05:09 PM 
Started by village boy - Last post by TimWescott
My two attempts at Bostonians (16" span) weighed in at around 14 grams.

But I've been building for years and AppleHoney is a F#$%ing Expert, so if your first attempt comes out at 40 grams don't despair -- just make it fly as best you can, and try to do better on the next one.  Well over half the battle in building good light planes is getting good light balsa -- that may be difficult in your part of the world.

 on: October 11, 2018, 07:27:31 PM 
Started by scigs30 - Last post by OZPAF
Another very neat build Sciggs. I'm also waiting to hear about how it flies.


 on: October 11, 2018, 07:12:46 PM 
Started by LASTWOODSMAN - Last post by OZPAF
My Cricket Wicket "FlyingField" is small - I think  130 yards by 120 yards
You mean the Gods of free flight haven't found you a bigger field Richard Cheesy shame. Cheesy


 on: October 11, 2018, 07:04:56 PM 
Started by village boy - Last post by applehoney
Hard to  say, much depends upon the type of model, structure, whether it has  undercarriage, etc.  For 20" span a 7" prop would likely be okay.

I rarely build such small models.   The one in photo is 24" span, strongly built, 8" prop - weighs  22g without rubber

 on: October 11, 2018, 06:55:51 PM 
Started by Dan Snow - Last post by OZPAF
You'll have fun flying a both your Beaver and Otter. That winder should serve you well.


 on: October 11, 2018, 06:52:29 PM 
Started by Dan Snow - Last post by OZPAF
That has turned out well Dan.


 on: October 11, 2018, 06:50:36 PM 
Started by Dan Snow - Last post by skyraider
Nice job Dan! Gotta love that color scheme. It really stands out. Hope
you had some fun building it.  Looking forward to your flight reports soon.


 on: October 11, 2018, 06:48:28 PM 
Started by hermit - Last post by OZPAF
The poor photos don't do Phil's Birdy justice Pete. It was built from a laser cut short kit form Avetek in NZ. A copy of the original RCM plan was supplied which actually had a couple of minor mistakes. Phil fully sheeted the wing and apart from the rear mounted servos and individual wing servos it is basically stock.
It's painted in 2 pack Urethane left over from his homebuilt aircraft(Sonex).
I was impressed at how well it flew on it's first flight - smooth, no bad low speed habits and to my eyes almost completely neutral.
Daffy Duck the test pilot pronounced it as Ok - don't touch anything Smiley
I was tempted and a 40 size electric version would be very nice!


 on: October 11, 2018, 06:25:11 PM 
Started by Dan Snow - Last post by Dan Snow
Well, here it is, minus only the US NAVY markings. Registration number 424.  As soon as I get our printer running again I'll see if I can get tissue printing to work.

Trying something new for me on this model.Since I had to separate the rudder and fin to install the stab, I re-attached the rudder using two soft .04" wires. That way I can quickly make adjustments if needed. Then once it's set i can put a dab or two of silicone to held the setting.

Any recommendations for a starting motor? The only rubber I currently have is 3/32" Tan FAI

 on: October 11, 2018, 06:18:41 PM 
Started by Mark Braunlich - Last post by FLYACE1946
Thank you for another year Mark.

 on: October 11, 2018, 05:57:42 PM 
Started by Dan Snow - Last post by Balsa Ace
Great work,Dan.


 on: October 11, 2018, 05:53:02 PM 
Started by scigs30 - Last post by Snaky Stringer
I second that.

 on: October 11, 2018, 05:51:15 PM 
Started by scigs30 - Last post by Snaky Stringer
On my paper version of the KK Bonanza, I made a molded canopy. If I do it again I may mold the entire top of the fuselage. The built-in spell checker has just objected to my British mould, so I decided to go American as far as possible. I had plug-in landing gear on mine but possibly hinged gear would work. The spring loaded gear on my Sterling Thunderbolt was unsatisfactory so I cut it out. Working retractable gear is possible I'm sure on the Bonanza but I think it is a bit too fancy for my limited skills.

 on: October 11, 2018, 05:37:22 PM 
Started by Olbill - Last post by Pit
Thanks guys!
Urs... now that I see that article I remember saving it (Duh!).  It didn't make the migration to the new confuser which is why I couldn't "find" it.


 on: October 11, 2018, 05:36:57 PM 
Started by Dan Snow - Last post by Balsa Ace
Top Notch work,Dan.


 on: October 11, 2018, 04:23:00 PM 
Well, looks like I am in luck. Smiley  My Cricket Wicket "FlyingField" is small - I think  130 yards by 120 yards, surrounded by big trees - so if by going left keeps the plane lower,   I can then keep it out of the winds aloft above the tree top level, plus you have to try to dial in tight turns.   Oh, I wish for a big field where I can really wind in a longgggggg motor.     I also must buy one of those battery powered rubber winders for quick winding without a stooge - can't find a store in Windsor that sells them ...  I think Sciggs uses these to great success.   I am still just a "convenient" small park flyer ... only had success with high wing monoplanes so far ...  Shocked


 on: October 11, 2018, 03:30:22 PM 
Started by Olbill - Last post by USch
Just what I found in my pc, a pdf from Ken Rice. The formula can be used to determine the deflection from any diameter and lenght of wire.

Calibrating a Torque Meter by Ken Rice
From: "Batsheet" via: Okie Free Flight Flyers
Most of the torque meter construction articles that I've seen call for calibrating the finished instrument by comparing it to a known-accurate torque meter, or by using a system of measured weights and moment arms. Neither of these is easy to do with any precision. Fortunately, there is a standard engineering formula for calculating the angular deflection of a solid shaft that works nicely for determining the dial marking instead. The simple formula is:
a = (C * T * L) / (D^4 * G)
The formula shows how many degrees that a shaft will twist, given the diameter and length of the shaft, and the amount of twisting force. The parameters for this formula are described below in both US and standard units (standard in parentheses):
a = angle of pointer deflection in degrees (degrees)
C = constant: 36.5 (584)
T = torque in inch-ounces (newton-millimeters)
L = length of the music wire torsional element in inches (millimeters)
D = diameter of the music wire torsional element in inches (millimeters)
G = torsional Modulus of Elasticity for music wire in lb/sq in (newton/sq mm)
Wire Size   G
less than .032 (.81)   12,000,000 (82 740)
.011-.062 (.84-1.6)   11,850,000 (81 700)
.063-.125 (1.6-3.2)   11,750,000 (81 010)
.126-.250 (3.2-6.4)   11,600,000 (79 980)

hope that helps, Pit


 on: October 11, 2018, 02:56:09 PM 
Started by LASTWOODSMAN - Last post by Maxout
However, some say that low-wing scale models should fly left...  I wouldn't know ... :-)

It's a stability thing. I've flown several of them to the right and sometimes got away with it, and sometimes had to change the warps and go left to keep the plane from self destructing.

 on: October 11, 2018, 02:25:33 PM 
Started by Olbill - Last post by calgoddard
Pit -

I think the plan for the Kothe torque meter has a formula for figuring out the length of the music wire segment to use. Therefore precision in the diameter of the wire is not critical.  For indoor models, I believe a 6-inch segment of .020" music wire would work nicely.  There are many ways to calibrate a homemade torque meter.

The Volare torque meter is an example of excellent engineering and fine craftsmanship.  It is very reasonably priced.  I have used my Morrill winder equipped with a Volare torque meter regularly over the past few years and it performs very nicely.

I would prefer that the Volare torque meter have a finer resolution.  For example, 2 on the meter is about 20 inch-ounces of torque. I rarely need to wind past 30-inch ounces of torque.  I don't fly Wakefields.  The meter goes from 0 to 10.  However, there are clearly readable line markings on the indicator drum between the digits.  My recollection is that they are in tenths.

Pages: [1] 2 3 4
Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!