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 on: Today at 03:21:50 AM 
Started by Liav - Last post by Liav
Hello everyone,

Maybe you saw my post here regarding my new Timer for F1S / E36.
I found out recently that many E36 timers are coming in a much larger size than my timer, and uses bigger through hole parts, instead of tiny SMD parts like in my Tiny Timer.

Well, if you are not concerned about bigger and heavier timer than the Tiny Timer, why not making a bigger timer?
Or even better, why not making it as a kit that can be soldered easily by anyone?
I can design a new PCB for through holes "Normal" size parts.
This can be also a nice challenge for kids who build their own E36 / F1S by themselves.
The timer will be the same as the original except for the size and weight, and the kit will be much cheaper than the original tiny timer F1S / E36.

Please let me know if you are interested with this kit, and if we get a significant amount of orders, I will start designing the PCB and order the new parts.

Thanks for reading all,



 on: Today at 12:35:26 AM 
Started by Tapio Linkosalo - Last post by Tapio Linkosalo
The mailman brought this yesterday.eCalc suggests 10 more Watts than my previous DYS motor. Maybe 180 meters on 10 second motor run with this one?

 on: Today at 12:18:56 AM 
Started by Pit - Last post by FAAMAN
Superb!!! Wink Wink
May you have lite winds and lotsa success!!! Cool Cool

 on: April 26, 2017, 11:20:55 PM 
Started by Pit - Last post by MKelly
Scimitar is ready to fly - forecast looks good for tomorrow.  As usual, I've overdone the decoration, weight is now 9.5g balanced.

Wish me luck...


 on: April 26, 2017, 09:22:02 PM 
Started by pedwards2932 - Last post by pedwards2932
Definitely go to http://benboxlaser.us/index.php there are a lot of helpful people and information there.  I finished my first plywood project - a vacuform box.  I still have to design the plates that will hold the plastic but have the vacuum box done.  Plywood really takes time - each side was about 25 minutes.  I used the laser to mark where to drill the holes but drilled them on my drill press.  First pic shows one of the cut out pieces.  Second pic shows box just stuck together.  Third is glued together and finished with krylon.

 on: April 26, 2017, 09:01:14 PM 
Started by BR549 - Last post by BR549
I just built my first Poonker and I'm having trouble getting it to climb. It circles exactly how I want, so my left thrust is OK. However it circles at the height I release it and will not climb. I've played with incidence, and the balance is good. I'm starting to think my up/down thrust angle is the problem.

What effect does up/down thrust have on a model? Any tips would be welcome.


 on: April 26, 2017, 09:00:15 PM 
Started by Sky9pilot - Last post by Ray_K

Wow looking good Tom!  Shocked

Cheers, Ray K.

 on: April 26, 2017, 08:46:24 PM 
Started by chevy43 - Last post by Hepcat
Just a quick one Stephen because I am sure there is more discussion to come. As I said, when a model is banked the vertical lift is less so the speed must be incereased.  I did not say this could be achieved by trim changes.  Indeed if you do want to fly a model with a lot of bank (as often happens Indoors) it will almost certainly need a bigger rubber motor. Yet more weight and even more speed required!


 on: April 26, 2017, 07:57:33 PM 
Started by marcelop - Last post by marcelop
today, Santiago is starting his new and bigger project; rc 2 channels glider called "Vector"
all per plans!!! today hi is scaling the wing tip ribs.
hi is doing a very good job!!!
and Diego is finishing soon his new ff glider "origone" as a second model!!!

we continue.......

 on: April 26, 2017, 07:47:47 PM 
Started by meatbomber - Last post by OZPAF
Thanks for that MB.
Happy flying.


 on: April 26, 2017, 07:44:10 PM 
Started by chevy43 - Last post by OZPAF
I wonder how a trimmed FF model elects to fly faster? To do that wouldn't it need a reduction in drag or a pitch trim change? I would expect the model to continue at its preset trim speed in a banked turn, with the sideways lift component countering centrifugal force.

Stephen I believe the answer here is that the model will need to be trimmed to the higher bank angle to handle the higher torque - it does not alter it's trim in flight. With sufficient dihedral and right thrust, wash in tabs or gurneys then the bank could be reduced, providing more lift for climb but with considerable extra trim drag.

With my small high powered sports models - the climbing turn to the right is at a very shallow bank angle and only needs 1 or at the most 2 turns during the climb which is very steep. The trim settings I find to achieve this are fairly small - slight right thrust, down thrust and a small amount of right rudder to balance some right wash in.

Thus the climb rate in my experience for high powered models is far greater for a right climbing model than for the left trimmed model, which is the efficiency I was referring to. I've confused the issue by not defining what efficiency I was referring to.

As Jon mentions the required task dictates largely the trim in the first place- whether indoor or outdoor particularly with their different power requirements.


 on: April 26, 2017, 07:29:13 PM 
Started by Sky9pilot - Last post by Sky9pilot
Thanks Don,
I haven't braved putting anything on the scales yet. Roll Eyes Embarrassed
I'll have to get her on the scales tomorrow and bite the bullet and see what the weight is.
Got some more work done today.  Finished up the turtle deck.  Cockpit cowling and end caps with the key slots and key on the inside of the motor tube.  Still have to finish up the motor tube, spinners and props, intake scoop over the engines and windscreen.  Not too far off on covering.  Still not pleased with the alignment of the floats so still tweaking the struts for that.

 on: April 26, 2017, 06:42:42 PM 
Started by ZK-AUD - Last post by OZPAF
Enjoying this Mike - I like your use of simple effective jigs. Balsa blocks though? Almost sacrilege Smiley The stuff is getting very rare.


 on: April 26, 2017, 06:03:37 PM 
Started by giantbikeboy - Last post by faif2d
very nicely done!  Good luck with the rest of the finishing.

 on: April 26, 2017, 05:56:09 PM 
Started by giantbikeboy - Last post by giantbikeboy
have a few repairs to make in the tissue and then on to paint. I have never done well with the plastic parts on these models. that's about the only thing left though. then more paint. till then...

 on: April 26, 2017, 05:55:35 PM 
Started by SP250 - Last post by ZK-AUD
Thoroughly agree with Stephen about the use of wood as opposed to paper.  Paper is compressed wood and is way heavier.  A piece of A4 photocopy paper weighs 5g, which is nearly a whole peanut!

sanding your lightest deadest 1/32 sheet down to the thicknesses and sizes required for peanut is easy,  with a couple of sheets of shim metal either side of your wood to sand down to.

warm water will then give you any radius for a straight LE but for a curved LE such as a Spitfire you have a compound curve - cloudy ammonia turns balsa to putty in your hand.

I have had success with carving a form for the LE in solid (3/8 sheet) and moulding the balsa on it wrapped in a crepe bandage.

If you don't mind a bit of delicate but oh-so-satisfying building I would suggest no LE strip on a peanut but bung in a few nose ribs wrap the nose sheeting sheeting around.  With sufficient ribs (no heavier than 1/32 sanded though I tend to use 15 thou EZB prop wood) a 1/20 spar top and bottom at 20 - 25% chord might be all you need other than a TE.

The next peanut cub I do could well look like the attached picture...   

 on: April 26, 2017, 05:09:18 PM 
Started by Graham Banham - Last post by Pete Fardell
Not in the same league as your Caudron, tho...
You're right there: hence our respective positions on the score boards! Roll Eyes Grin

 on: April 26, 2017, 04:57:00 PM 
Started by Graham Banham - Last post by danmellor
Cheers Pete! Not in the same league as your Caudron, tho...


 on: April 26, 2017, 03:17:07 PM 
Started by Graham Banham - Last post by Pete Fardell
They weren't obvious- I couldn't see them at all until I put my glasses on and you pointed them out! It's a lovely model.

 on: April 26, 2017, 02:45:49 PM 
Started by SP250 - Last post by Prosper
John, please forgive me for only just having noticed your post. I am guilty of hitting HPA only in a smash-and-grab way - normally I home in on outdoor scale, and just a few other forums. I know I miss a lot, but time. . .time. . .

The answer is that I use thin balsa. That's the only answer required: if you sand some 1/32" sheet, not just to 1/64" (0.4mm) but thinner, to 0.3 or less, a new world opens. Those Pacer leading edges would have been soaked in tap water for ooohh, a good 30 seconds or so. . . I make laminated pieces (take the Pacer tail surface outlines for example) from strips of thin balsa which sometimes don't need wetting at all. They're thin enough to conform to most curves whilst dry.  Once pinned in place I flood them with thin (very thin) CA and have insta-laminations. With laminated pieces sometimes a crack or fold will occur at a single point in a single strip: I just force the break flat with the next strip pressed against it. The thin CA sees to all that. Mould release is either candle wax or nothing. I use cardboard cutouts to bend the strips round; if a careless slurp of CA sticks the laminated piece to the cardboard it can be cut and sanded away. Inelegant perhaps but very quick.

Packard, the trouble with tissue as the fiber element is that it's so-oo thirsty, and it's very non-directional. It will drink epoxy or CA. It has such an amount of surface area that wetting it out with thin CA can lead to combustion. Because tissue drinks resin the result is very heavy, and because of the looseness of the tissue fibres it's not strong at all. A better option is to use 60gsm paper wetted out with CA. This is a tough, stiff, leathery material. I use this for any number of non-stressed items (wing fillets; air intakes etc) but they are heavy. The ideal resin/fibre ratio I can't recall - is it 30% resin to 60% fibre by weight? Anyway it's a lot of fibre per resin. Trust me, a leading edge made of impregnated tissue will weigh a huge amount and be less strong than a thin, raw balsa leading edge that's covered in tissue and lavished with dope or acrylic.


 on: April 26, 2017, 01:57:19 PM 
Started by SP250 - Last post by packardpursuit
I have often wondered about using tissue or silkspan as the fiber element in a shallow molded LE, set with thin (heated) epoxy resin. Beer can aluminum will polish into a superior molding surface. It can also be formed with one's fingers.

 on: April 26, 2017, 01:53:43 PM 
Started by Graham Banham - Last post by danmellor
Thanks Jon! It was in 3 pieces the previous Wednesday and the tissue repairs were very obvious. The original kit was Robbe. I have the Piper Pacer from the same range...



 on: April 26, 2017, 01:51:48 PM 
Started by Beazld - Last post by packardpursuit
Here in US Rit dyes are avasilable at every supermarket. Silspan , because of its great wet strength, is easy and fun to color. just follow the the instructions for dying cloth. I have also just ground up dry powder and added to  dope thinner and or clear dope and spray it on. Most model tech is usually adapted from an existing technology.

 on: April 26, 2017, 01:27:16 PM 
Started by Pete Fardell - Last post by Pete Fardell
Right, only a month till the MA/Aeromodeller designs comp at Barkston, so thought I'd better make a start. There is an awful lot of wood in this thing. It's described as 'robust' which I'd say it is, with the plan suggesting 1/16" sheet sides and 1/8" formers right back to the tail! I've slimmed it down a little bit though and will use 1/32 for the sides and only the first three formers will be full thickness (doubled up 1/16" rather than 1/8" which means I can make the holes in the middle bigger too). It's still going to be pretty hefty, but nice and strong too I hope.

 Thanks for the rule reminder, Bill. I've taken full advantage of the enlargement allowance and blown the plan up to 110% which will give it a span of 27.75 inches.
Only the formers to show so far, so here's another picture of the real thing too. Rather lovely isn't it?

 on: April 26, 2017, 01:15:30 PM 
Started by abl - Last post by abl
Finally, have started on the fuselage...

The parts are more-or-less standard, except that a small amount of material has been removed from the keels at the tail; don't know if it was worth doing, but it made me feel better.

I have, however, replaced the side keels (K2) with lighter wood, which was a hazardous undertaking because I haven't cut 1/16" square slots for years and years and on something that size the weak points at the corner of each slot feel very weak indeed; in fact there were a couple of <ahem> minor breakages whilst sanding to fit which required a tiny amount of medium cyano to fix, which is partly why it's taken so long to get to this point. Clearly, I need more practice. Was it worth making new ones? Well, the original side keels were hard balsa so it saved just shy of half a gram, which is a total saving of nearly a gram when the nose ballast is taken into account.

I've ruthlessly borrowed some ideas from Jon's Pink Spitfire build so the front formers are angled about 2.5 degrees to the right, the left-hand side keel is now on and after pressing a bit hard and breaking a couple of formers (and the new keel, because I'm a klutz), I've painstakingly glued everything back together and have carefully stepped away to let it dry properly; with luck, I think I might have got away with it.

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