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 1 
 on: Today at 06:42:19 AM 
Started by dwidrick - Last post by dwidrick
I don't know about you but to me it was a challenge just to build the plane let alone putting on retractable gear! Smiley

 2 
 on: Today at 06:00:52 AM 
Started by no1dieselman - Last post by ZK-AUD
Also Doug McHard's fokker D7 and Gloster Gladiator worth a look

 3 
 on: Today at 05:47:43 AM 
Started by no1dieselman - Last post by billdennis747
Collin also has a Nieuport on Outerzone. For your Mills 75 i would enlarge to 33-34", lighten, forget the pendulum and use a half inch under each wingtip

 4 
 on: Today at 05:40:14 AM 
Started by dwidrick - Last post by OZPAF
My interpretation of Mark's description is:

The rear rubber anchor peg was tensioned by a coil spring pulling it back to wards the tail. As the spring moves the peg backwards - it pulls on 2 lines attached to release clips on the  UC legs, releasing them and allowing their own light springs to lower them and lock them down.

When the motor is fully wound - it pulls the rear peg forward - causing the 2 lines to stay slack and thus for the UC to stay retracted, maintained there by the clips.

Thus the model would be launched, wheels up and at a particular point on the motor run down, the spring on the rear peg would over ride the rubber tension, and release the UC clips allowing the legs to drop for landing.

It would take considerable adjustment to get the legs to come down at the right time (before landing preferably Smiley) and this could only be done after the model had been trimmed and the final rubber size determined.

As Mark mentioned - lots of work and more weight as well.

Hope this is accurate and that it helps. I can't imagine too many 13yr olds doing this today.

It's a nice model BTW

John

 5 
 on: Today at 05:22:53 AM 
Started by DerekMc - Last post by OZPAF
Lots of careful work there Richard. You will have to pay your workers Smiley

That sounds like a lot of left side thrust Richard. However you can always add a shaped wedge spacer to the front to correct it.

John

 6 
 on: Today at 05:18:38 AM 
Started by no1dieselman - Last post by ZK-AUD
There's a Gordon Whitehead 24" Nieuport on outerzone.  All sheet for a Dart but quite accurate and capable of being finished convincingly.  Another option is DM Collins 28" Sopwith Camel also for Dart and on OZ.  This could be a very nice little model

 7 
 on: Today at 05:18:20 AM 
Started by Don McLellan - Last post by OZPAF
Nice work Dave. Don't keep us in suspense - how did you get such a neat fi around the nacelles on the top of the wing centre section?

The lozenge tissue really stands out.

It's interesting to see that the heat shrink on the struts takes paint that well.

John

 8 
 on: Today at 05:12:15 AM 
Started by chrislgl - Last post by OZPAF
Rapid progress there Chris. The wings will be strong.

John

 9 
 on: Today at 05:11:32 AM 
Started by no1dieselman - Last post by billdennis747
The problem with the Bristol is reconciling the spinner with downthrust.
The Nieuport goes well. The Bagley Nieuport for a 1.3 is not very accurate but can be altered. I did one with a flat top wing with no problem. I think Bagley's has a little dihedral which makes it fool proof.

 10 
 on: Today at 04:58:04 AM 
Started by no1dieselman - Last post by no1dieselman
I was at the free flight nats and chatted to a few there. The standards of some are amazing. Unfortunately I am working for most events until the festival of flight at Old Warden.
I always wanted to build the Bristol M1C but after seeing one in the flesh it put me off for soms reason. Another aircraft I am drawn to is the Neiuport, are these a reasonably easy subject to do?
Cheers
Doug

 11 
 on: Today at 04:50:58 AM 
Started by Pete Fardell - Last post by Yak 52
Hi Pete,

I've done a little drawing that might help with the D/T.

You can see that a stop is needed just forward of the LE to give the tail something to pivot against. This can be a piece of 1.8" balsa just wider than the fuselage and glued down. The rubber bands strap over it and to a small hook in the tailplane spar area. (Or a hole through the fin would work)

The D/T line holds the TE down and runs through the bent ally tube CA'd to the end of the fuselage. A bead on the D/T line can form a stopper that holds the Tail at 45 degrees when the D/T is deployed. This can be a bit fiddly so I use a separate adjustable line to set the tail angle.

You will need to provide some kind of keying so that the tail sits in exactly the same place every time when flying- otherwise you will get inconsistent trim from the misaligned rudder. I use little balsa stops either side but you could have a ply tab slot into the fuselage or something.

It's also good to have a 'turnaround' or 'capstan' somewhere between the D/T and the timer. This can be just a bit of dowel poking out the fuselage that you wrap a turn or two of the D/T line to secure it. This allows you to get plenty of tension holding the tail down but minimum tension on the timer arm. A small rubber band may be handy between the capstan and the timer too.


Jon

 12 
 on: Today at 04:36:16 AM 
Started by chrislgl - Last post by chrislgl
The centre section or the wing has been built, the only difference from the standard kit being the use of plywood ribs RCR2 and RCR2A in place of the balsa items. I choose to use plywood to provide extra strength should the undercarriage be fitted as well as giving extra strength to the dihedral break/join area. I am building it to fly ‘wheels up’.

The outer wing panels were built. Using the ribs as a guide I made up and stuck the leading edge, tip and trailing edge pieces together. I then made two ‘washout’ jigs (one for each wing), which is a triangular piece of balsa, its length being equal to the chord of the wing at the position of R8, and at one end it is 1mm high and at the other 0mm. A piece of clear adhesive tape is placed on the top to stop it getting stuck to the wing during construction.

The jig was then placed under rib R8 along with the lower front and rear spars. The wing was built as per plan/instructions apart from parts W6 and W7 which I replaced with 1/16th sheet shear webbing stuck to the front of the upper and lower spars, I then added more shear webbing to the front of the upper  and lower spars from R5 to R8.

Both panels have been built and will be left to dry fully and with the addition of the shear webbing with the washout jig in place the wing should be stiff and retain the desired washout. I will be using the jigs to check this when I get to the covering stage.

 13 
 on: Today at 04:34:43 AM 
Started by ironmike - Last post by DavidJP
Yes that is right - but I am sure it was repaired and flew again. I will ask around.

 14 
 on: Today at 04:33:40 AM 
Started by no1dieselman - Last post by SP250
Doug, can I suggest you get along to a couple of the scale events and chat to all the competitors for inspiration and pick their brains on which type flies best too.
Buckminster Retro and Vintage Gala on July 6,7 & 8th is hosting the resurrected Eddie Riding Memorial Trophy and the August Bank holiday Nats 25,26 & 27th has the Scale FF Trophy events as Bill mentioned.

John M

 15 
 on: Today at 04:29:00 AM 
Started by Don McLellan - Last post by DavidJP
Masterclass stuff. 

 16 
 on: Today at 03:51:13 AM 
Started by no1dieselman - Last post by billdennis747
Hello Doug
So you are within easy reach of Barkston, Buckminster, Luffenham. There are other scale modellers in that neck of the woods.
Dave is right - you need to be interested in the model. I suggest you go through a few designs in the plans handbook (if you have one) or Outerzone and come back to us. Between us, we've built most of them. Possibles include Eindekker, Bird Dog, Puss Moth, Bellanca Skyrocket, Tipsy Nipper, Sopwith Swallow, Strutter, SE5a, AW FK8, Avro 504k. Size can be adjusted to suit your engines
I've sent a pm

 17 
 on: Today at 03:35:02 AM 
Started by no1dieselman - Last post by no1dieselman
Thank you for your replied . I live in Grimsby Lincs Bill. The Fearnley Luton doesnt appeal for some reason, even though Eric was in my club.I will get the Coates book and have a read.

 18 
 on: Today at 02:24:16 AM 
Started by no1dieselman - Last post by ZK-AUD
And you won't need a pilot!! Grin

 19 
 on: Today at 02:22:45 AM 
Started by no1dieselman - Last post by ZK-AUD
Interesting fun fact.  G-AYSK is probably the only prototype to have emulated its free flight model counterpart.

 20 
 on: Today at 02:18:25 AM 
Started by no1dieselman - Last post by billdennis747
All good advice Doug. The Luton could be built for the three events August onwards. Where are you based?

 21 
 on: Today at 12:28:21 AM 
Started by DerekMc - Last post by LASTWOODSMAN
SPEEDSTER 30"         NOSE INFILL PLANKING

Cyborg Super Soldiers,  Mandrake and Bloodroot,  have been hard at work cutting and shaping infill planks all day.

Pic #1     9544     Stringers have been glued in to the top of the nose.

Pic #2     9546     Mandrake and Bloodroot test fit the last infill plank.

Pic #3     9552    The infill planks have been cut, fitted, and are ready to be glued.

Pic #4     9547     Last plank is glued in.

Pic #5     9549     Mandrake and Bloodroot step back and examine their work.

Pic #6      9566     The nose is still bent to the left port side.    Huh    This will add more left turn "Yaw"  ( I think )  - it is bent about four degrees.   

LASTWOODSMAN
Richard

 22 
 on: June 19, 2018, 11:30:37 PM 
Started by Don McLellan - Last post by dputt7
  Managed to get some more done on the WD11, covered the center sections and the tail unit first with Lightweight Polyspan then covered the bottom surfaces with Peck Buff tissue to simulate the natural linen. Next I printed enough Lozenge tissue to cover the upper surfaces. I really made a mistake mounting the nacelles to the lower center section before covering as it made it difficult to cut out an exact hole in the printed tissue so it fitted closely and a the hexagons were square to the wing. I sprayed the side surfaces an appropriate shade of grey and the underside of the fuse a lighter shade that matched my references. The centersection struts are made from 2mm carbon fiber rod with a balsa fairing. I normally wrap these struts with dope and tissue for strength but this time I tried some shrink tube and it seemed to work well without much weight gain. That's it for now!

 23 
 on: June 19, 2018, 09:08:29 PM 
Started by Bigbandito - Last post by Bigbandito
Starting with the sticks. One side almost done.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180620/6403c4deae457903389c2970878bb906.heic


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 24 
 on: June 19, 2018, 08:59:57 PM 
Started by no1dieselman - Last post by ZK-AUD
Yes but there is one in the UK (G-AYSK) that has dihedral and features a simple colour scheme.  Just a few simple changes from the Fearnley plan (fin shape, U/C and engine)

 25 
 on: June 19, 2018, 08:49:23 PM 
Started by no1dieselman - Last post by gossie
Fearnley Luton Minor in Aeromodeller '50s is a sure flier for your .75.

  Built mine in 1962, has been recovered once and is still living well.  Has even won and placed in comps.

IMHO the only thing against it is the zero dihedral on the real one, but for FF a per the plan you do need some of that stuff.

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