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 on: Today at 10:29:08 AM 
Started by billdennis747 - Last post by DavidJP
Oh well if you will get all technical and do that kind of thing you have only yourself to blame. I for one am grateful to you for asking these questions as it enables me to save  face a bit.   I am not sure though how a scale model can be “ridiculous”?

 on: Today at 10:23:05 AM 
Started by Tapio Linkosalo - Last post by Tapio Linkosalo
Ok, correction. The fuselage is 0.8mm diameter carbon rod. The first piece that I got my hands on, and looked suitable, did not measure it... :-)

 on: Today at 08:01:15 AM 
Started by meatbomber - Last post by DavidJP
Well Phillip our 'enry would be quite impressed. 

I too have just noticed this - it is a very stabile model but of of his stuff was pretty good.  Well done - perhaps we can see some more.  it sounds to me as though the motor could be downsized a bit but must admit with electric being so compact etc. I think the extra power does no harm, and low throttle settings sound better.

 on: Today at 06:22:00 AM 
Started by Don McLellan - Last post by DavidJP
Thank you Tony - feel much better now - my Spud5 is only a little way down the field pro rata. 

 on: Today at 06:15:05 AM 
Started by Glenn (gravitywell) Reach - Last post by DavidJP
NEVER SETTLE! Never Compromise!       Never finish it

 on: Today at 06:13:13 AM 
Started by DavidJP - Last post by DavidJP
Exactly the right approach Crabby!

Hmmm sky raider -  now I find out about your WW1 kits........!!!!  As a matter of interest would you be able to give me a rough idea of shipping to the UK please.  And in case I can must up a few chums if there is a minimum charge how many kits could be in one packet?   

 on: Today at 06:00:25 AM 
Started by TheLurker - Last post by DavidJP
I have not attempted to make my own balsa strippers - but I can see the merits.

Here are the two I use - the smaller plastic one (very sturdy) is made by Avicraft and works well; it is a very much an "in your hand job".  I find it works well particularly with small dimensions. Basically you hold it in your hand and slide it down the edge of the sheet (having checked the edge is straight of course). With a little practice it is pretty easy to keep the blade at right angles to the timber by placing your finger behind the blade and applying a little pressure. I have used this for anything up to 1/8th or a little more with softer timber.  I think about 1/4inch is the widest i have cut..  I have not yet cut myself using it!  It employs the standard 10a or 11 scalpel blade. You can just see this behind the upper wing  nut.  Thickness adjustment is by a slider held in place by a tightened wing nut.

The other is more beefy and made by a friend of mine. Much the same idea of course but aren't they all?  Has vernier to adjust the width of cut. I use this one for wider longer cuts and thicker timber. It will cut up to 1/4inch in one pass and is fine for say half inch by doing two passes either side - very accurate - never had the line of cut not match up. Also uses standard scalpels. I place the timber on a piece of conti board with the edge protruding enough to allow the blade to protrude below as i can't always be fussed to adjust it for the thickness although is is very easy.

The Avicraft one was I think just under £10.00.

 on: Today at 05:51:00 AM 
Started by meatbomber - Last post by meatbomber
Thanks Jürgen !

Thanks Smiley The stick and tissue has really restarted my love for building, not that i dislike foam but its great to do something new (for me) and build a bit more time durable (foam joints age badly i found out after 10 years Wink)


 on: Today at 05:10:43 AM 
Started by Rich Moore - Last post by DavidJP
Wow - you really are showing your talents are you not?  Carpentry marquetry  and photography.  That "inside" shot is pretty slick - a touch of the Lord Lichfields there. 

Have built the VMC one and sheeted the nose on that and as Mike said the area behind the headrest.  The nose sheeting I would claim as ballast - more environmentally friendly than lead - and the head rest  would just deny it and say it was double layers of tissue.  Yours is looking very nice though and I could also be tempted - I have always liked the Hurricane. Mitchells job was a bit twee and posy!  Hurricane pilots were more butch!

Sorry if i have missed it but have you mentioned a colour scheme yet?  (Not Baders I hope). 

 on: Today at 05:00:25 AM 
Started by meatbomber - Last post by Jürgen Be
Hi Philipp,

just came across this forums and was surprised to see your posts:-)
Another great build, I like it:-)


 on: Today at 04:34:57 AM 
Started by Fourfingers - Last post by Fourfingers
Thanks Chris
So much knowledge on these forums, great stuff.
We have a very good engine doctor here, a job for life perhaps with idiots like me around.
I think this is another one for him!

 on: Today at 03:43:10 AM 
Started by Rich Moore - Last post by Pete Fardell
I'm enjoying this, Rich, and it's great to see you building again. As far as infilling the front end goes, I'd go for it as you'll probably get more satisfaction from it looking right than from finishing a bit further up the Kit Scale ladder.

 (But if the mod costs you the win, then I take no responsibility!  Grin)

 on: Today at 01:13:13 AM 
Started by scrubs - Last post by FF Bruce
For the most part you should go with the tried and true wash out of both tips, not a lot 1\32 to 1\20th then wash in the right main panel 1\16 should be enough.You will then need a small amount of right rudder (very small) possibly some right stab tilt (looking from the back the right side is higher than the left) but just a little and after a few test flights if the glide is good but it still doesn't want to power to the right add a little right thrust.Did I mention put the CG at around 75% and add or remove incidence till you have a nice level glide then start your adjustments. That is what I would do. Hope this helps looking forward to you telling us about your model.       Bruce 

 on: Today at 12:19:15 AM 
Started by Iskandar Taib - Last post by strat-o
Thanks Iskandar!  A lot of valuable information.  Thanks for taking the time to put it out here.


 on: February 19, 2018, 11:05:23 PM 
Started by Iskandar Taib - Last post by Iskandar Taib

The five inch props that come with these kits is attached to the usual North Pacific style plastic prop hanger/nosepiece. The Chinese prop hangers differ quite a bit from the American ones that you get these days from SIG and Midwest. The American ones are made of nylon, which makes them easy to bend to adjust in sidethrust. I used sidethrust a lot when trimming stick models, especially Delta Darts. A tendency to climb too steeply under power is easily trimmed out by tweaking the front bearing before launch. The Chinese ones seem to be made of ABS (like the props). Twist them too much and a stress line appears, twist even more and they'd likely break off (haven't had this happen yet). They do stay bent when you bend them, but it's probably best to avoid doing so in the first place. With the current models, I trim the climb by setting the turning circle (left) using the rudder, then adjusting the wing fore/aft.

American prop hangers are made to fit 1/8"x3/8" motor sticks. When building the last batch of Delta Darts, I was using 1/8"x1/4" motor sticks with a small piece of 1/8"x1/8" slung underneath. Chinese motor sticks are 4mmx6mm (and seem to be some sort of pine - heavier than balsa, in any case). For these models I strip 1/8"x1/4" sticks out of medium hard sheet, about 11-12 inches long (might try longer in the future), and then use a piece of 1/32" (or 1mm) balsa glued to the side. After saturating with a couple drops of CA (this keeps the wood in the nose from deforming, and keeps the prop hanger tight week after week), some light sanding will get it to the right dimensions for a tight slip fit into the prop hanger. Probably best not to glue the two together, especially if you forget to install the dental bands for the wing saddle first. Use a knife to remove the flashing from the prop hanger before installing.


 on: February 19, 2018, 11:03:15 PM 
Started by TheLurker - Last post by fred
Neat lil gizmos. Thin blade  notion is interesting. I've found that MY MA units' blade wandering  annoyance was 90% 'fixed' by snapping off the Pointy end of #11's
 I also have a screwed down Ali angle extrusion as wood fence. 
There's  small to no chance of the balsa sheet not being well guided or shifting, given the 2 foot long fence.
 Using a thin blade intrigues though..
Looking at my MA gizmo, it seems a simple metal sandwich arrangement  supporting/clamping  a bit of snapped off  old style razor could be a worthwhile experiment.

 on: February 19, 2018, 09:30:40 PM 
Started by DavidJP - Last post by Crabby
I always have a good book going and a good model going, it’s been that way for as long as I can remember. My parents were both artists, and I learned balsa butchering from my dad. I do a little reading and building every day. If I miss a day or a few, well, things pass. I don’t get too hung up over it any more.

 on: February 19, 2018, 08:26:52 PM 
Started by MKelly - Last post by MKelly
Looking good John.  The prototype Skyraider flew some flights with a spinner but I don't believe any of the production aircraft used spinners.

Not sure I'm really smart enough to explain why the Peck props work better than the Guillows, but I can tell you that the Guillows 5" prop weighs more, has substantially higher pitch and more of a flat-plate blade than the Peck 6" prop.  The Skyraider would loaf around barely climbing with the Guillows prop.  With the Peck prop it climbs more aggressively - that could be due to the larger diameter, greater blade area, different blade shape and/or some other combination of factors.  Once I saw how the Skyraider flew with the Peck prop I put more time into experimenting with motor cross-section, length and winding techniques, with the end result of getting some very pleasing flights.

On the Skyshark I slapped the 5" Tern prop on it because that was what I had close at hand, and it worked well. I swapped that out for a 6" Tern prop so I could use the 5" on a peanut scale model I was completing.  The 6" prop took a little fiddling with thrust angles but once trimmed has worked out well.  Both of the Tern props were second-hand to me and had had their blades re-shaped to a narrower chord at the tip.

If you're not trying to replicate the original Airlane kit there's no reason not to put some lightening holes in the sides of the fuselage (like Guillows did on the Skyraider) and in the bottom of the fuselage - you could save a lot of noseweight that way.



 on: February 19, 2018, 07:35:15 PM 
Started by Ashu - Last post by OZPAF
For right rudder, one way is to bend the stick to right at the tail (I have to join 2 sticks anyway to make 30cm length as they are only 25cm long; this could be done, but then it might be problematic to join the sticks and kids might have more problem doing this..I will try that).

If you need to join the sticks then add the tail section - the last 5 cm or so at a slight right angle - approx. 2 deg or so perhaps. What age group are you talking about? It may be worthwhile making the sticks and providing them your self. A simple jig could make this fairly easy.

How do I make rudder tab?..and I dont know what that is. Any pics? Since I have made a triangular rudder, should I make it trapezium shaped (as in tissue version pic) and add rudder to the TE by squeezing the foam and bending it? That is how I would add the washin too...Otherwise I am unable to visualise how to add rudder to the hypotenuse of the triangular fin.

Your rudder tab could be just a small piece of bond paper of the approx. size I mentioned with first couple of mm lightly stuck to the trailing edge of the wing with paper glue.(glue stick works well). I feel you would probably find it hard to get small adjustments warped into the foam and it would lead to the problem of damaging the rudder and the wings. paper tabs are a better idea.

Now another confusion is the sidethrust that you explained. You said that it will be needed for more winds. When and how do I decide that I need a sidethrust and cross trim is not sufficient? In the tissue version with DIY prop, there is no sidethrust and there is stab tilt for right turn...it flies in right circles with 150 turns, and I did not get time to check it indoors with more turns.

The Trim I mentioned was for a outdoor model with a steeper more powerful climb. As you are flying indoors you will need less power but you may still need to add some right thrust as you increase the turns.
I didn't realise you were flying indoors so you need to maintain a good turn (to miss the walls) and if it is turning right now - then just keep adding turns. If the right turn starts opening up then add a bit of right thrust.

Tissue squirrel
How to add washin here? And right rudder, if I don't want to bend the stick?

Paper tabs for the wash in. With the lower power needed for indoor - you may not need as much wash in because you are not trying to achieve a steep climb but a constant right circling flight. Only use enough to stop the right wing dropping.

Full marks to you for trying to do in the circumstances you have explained. I was wondering if you were a teacher.

You may be able to use reeds or stripped sections of bamboo or similar. it's a pity you could grow balsa locally Smiley I believe Indonesia has timber yards that supply balsa  http://www.karyadasarutama.com/balsa%20wood.html

Anyway here are a couple of pics - a different model but it shows what I mean by paper tabs - I actually cut these off envelopes using the sticky section of the tab to glue onto the wing.

Good luck.


 on: February 19, 2018, 07:16:36 PM 
Started by DavidJP - Last post by skyraider
It's hard for me to put forum names with real names so I never put the connection together.

Happens to me all the time.  Used to stump me for days.


 on: February 19, 2018, 07:02:34 PM 
Started by Glenn (gravitywell) Reach - Last post by packardpursuit
When one contemplates their dream vision of someday building the ultimate scale model project, do you suppose they EVER  initially see it as coming out" half a**d" or even semi-scale???    Ever hear somebody s "It's scale enough for me"?  I've said it myself but if you think about it, it could indicate poor self esteem out or it could really mean something.  To be sure, start out slow, But set the bar high. NEVER SETTLE! Never Compromise!

 on: February 19, 2018, 06:46:38 PM 
Started by DavidJP - Last post by Rich Adams
Hey Skyraider, no worries. I am aware of your line of kits. Very nice work. It's hard for me to put forum names with real names so I never put the connection together.

 on: February 19, 2018, 05:43:23 PM 
Started by Rich Moore - Last post by ZK-AUD
Rich that's really nice.  A pleasing structure as you say, and no doubt very satisfying.  I agree with your nose sheeting scheme and possibly also the hump area just aft of the headrest to maintain that shape.  Intelligent design this one.  Very tempting...

 on: February 19, 2018, 05:14:07 PM 
Started by Rich Moore - Last post by Rich Moore
So, the stringers are done. A few wobbly ones, but they add character/ are all in the spirit of Kit-Scale if you ask me. One boo boo - I misinterpreted where the stringer above the wing root goes. I cracked it at the trailing edge (former #6) and took it to the stern post. On the second side, I realised this stringer was supposed to keep travelling downward to intercept former #7. Whatever, no one will notice.
Needs an intricate sanding session. I will probably scallop the formers between stringers, and I am very tempted to illegally infill the front section...mmm?

Anyway, it is a pleasing structure (sorry about the orange lighting). I couldn't resist a shot down the inside - I bet that's where you'd look if you were examining it. Not doing so would be a bit like eating a doughnut without licking your lips. Or eating a fruit pastel without chewing it...

 on: February 19, 2018, 04:37:10 PM 
Started by MKelly - Last post by 1778ppr
Progress so far. Nose formers, fuselage formers, and fuselage sides glued up. ¼ by 1/32 bass wood added to fuselage sides to strengthen the rear peg mounting hole. Stabilizer dihedral glued up and glued to fuselage. Wing dihedral glued up. I am deviating from the instructions slightly on assembly order because I might not use the bottom fuselage pieces in the rear to save weight. Also Mike, the 2 nose bottom triangle pieces don’t fit mine either and I built mine according to plan. I found this out dry fitting the bottom fuselage pieces. I’ll have to remake those. I found a 6” Peck prop, nylon bearing, brass washers, and shaft in my “stuff”. The spinner came from a Guillows Skyraider kit. I don’t think Skyraiders had big spinners like that.

Take Care, John

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