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Author Topic: Show Your Newest Creation  (Read 85751 times)
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OZPAF
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« Reply #1275 on: November 24, 2018, 03:37:02 AM »

Neat and straight Ian. I like your wing construction as well - solid at the front and with a nice light strong spar.

John
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PB_guy
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« Reply #1276 on: November 24, 2018, 01:00:33 PM »

Thanks for the comments. One thing I did brand new on this model was to pre-stain the balsa before covering. I used watercolour paints and sharpies to colour the underlying framework in the colour of the tissue on top. It really made a big difference. For instance, look at the stringers on the turtledeck under the white tissue. That was done with watercolour. The addition of weight to the frame was negligable, but the improvement in appearance was huge. Some paints add a lot of weight, but stains are fairly light - try felt markers. They are available in wide varieties of colours.
Build thread part of a cookup here: http://www.stickandtissue.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1529534891
ian
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MKelly
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« Reply #1277 on: November 24, 2018, 01:23:38 PM »

Be sure to test your marker or stain with your preferred tissue sealant.  I once doped Aero Gloss clear over Sharpie with disastrous results - the Sharpie bled through the tissue and made quite a mess.

Clearly you didn't have this problem Ian - your method produced a great result on the Bonanza.

Mike
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Indoorflyer
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« Reply #1278 on: November 26, 2018, 09:52:59 AM »

This is my version of a modified Bonanza 35 by Whitman.

Did you go with the tail area and "V" angle shown on the plan? That's an interesting geometry/aerodynamics problem, achieving the right combo.  Even Beech  changed it over the production timeline...
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PB_guy
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« Reply #1279 on: November 26, 2018, 01:26:31 PM »

Yes, Indoorflyer, I went with the exact dimensions and angles as on the plan. I am still awaiting the end of the rain to take it outside for another flight trial. But it looks quite stable in flight so far. My concern was the difference in incidence between tail and wing surfaces. I thought that it might be too much.
ian
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billdennis747
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« Reply #1280 on: December 09, 2018, 06:05:29 AM »

Some bits I've been working on which I hope will turn into a DH75 Hawk Moth for the indoor Nats and Nijmegen. It will be a simple model and my aim is just for it to fly around in circles for 20 seconds and qualify. Weight so far is 32g which is 5 tonnes/sq mile
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OZPAF
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« Reply #1281 on: December 09, 2018, 06:46:47 AM »

It might be ok Bill if it was tonnes/metric mile. Smiley as their yards - ah metres , are longer than Imperial yards.

John

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g_kandylakis
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« Reply #1282 on: December 09, 2018, 06:54:12 AM »

It certainly looks light enough.

And 5 tonnes/sq mile is a good value to aim for  Grin

George
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scale free flight & micro RC
USch
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« Reply #1283 on: December 09, 2018, 07:39:21 AM »

Bill,
you really have a 16m2 wing at 32g? Should be a floater, but doesn't look that big  Huh  Shocked  Grin

Urs
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« Reply #1284 on: December 15, 2018, 05:06:29 PM »

Peck-Polymers Lacey M-10  Peanut Scale, 13" span.

More unfinished business from the 1970s.  I started on one of these when Aeromodeller dished out a free plan for it but it never got finished.

Unballasted weight is 14.17g and the (unballasted) trim is neutral to marginally nose heavy.

Planning to use a 24" loop of 3/32" (approx 3x peg to prop) which will be about 3g so minimum AUW will be a shade over 17g.  Hoping to keep it close to or even under 18g, but will have to see what it requires by way of additional nose / other weight.

Took about 10 weeks.

There's the usual crop of flaws and the finish isn't as neat or crisp as I'd like (it never is) but I'm not ashamed to admit it's my work and T(obitd) has quite definitely been reached . Smiley

Variations from Plan
Nothing significant.  Much the usual run of minor changes.

  • Motor peg moved forward in accordance with contemporary opinion.  Surprisingly small, almost no, weight penalty.
  • Balsa wheels rather than kit wheels.
  • Additional gussets in fuselage at rear of cabin and on wing outer ribs
  • Glazing material courtesy of Sainsbury's Bramley Apple Turnovers.  The kit supplied glazing is good but there wasn't quite enough to do the sides and front of the cabin.
  • Rudder hinged.
  • Serials & other legends tissue rather than the supplied water-slide transfers.
  • Tissue for stab and fin pre-shrunk.  The instructions do say to shrink covering for the whole airframe.  Got some scoliosis in the ribs after shrinking which makes me think it might have been a good idea to pre-shrink the wing covering as well.  Thankfully the wing outline remained true.
  • Black tissue rather than cut 80gsm for motor vent.
  • Black tissue for air intake and door lines.
  • Al. tube motor peg. As if there was any choice in this.
  • Al tissue covering for exhausts and tailwheel hub.
  • UC legs painted grass stem covers.  Far neater finish than wrapping with tissue and not much weight penalty.
  • Tailwheel tyre black tissue wrap.

If anyone wants the transfers or the kit wheels let me know and I'll drop them in the post to you.
Lurk.
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flydean1
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« Reply #1285 on: December 15, 2018, 06:28:22 PM »

You've built a 2-minute flyer if the ceiling is high enough.  If outdoors, you will wish you had a DT.  Really nice work.  Absolutely superb.
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Pete Fardell
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« Reply #1286 on: December 15, 2018, 06:34:41 PM »

That's the nicest Lacey I've seen in a long while. Great job!

(What paint did you use on the grass uc legs?)
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Andrew Darby
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« Reply #1287 on: December 15, 2018, 07:04:28 PM »

Nice job Lurks, pretty sharp.

Pete I have to ask, is that really you?  Grin Cheesy

Andrew
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Klunk
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« Reply #1288 on: December 16, 2018, 04:47:12 AM »

Thanks for the kind words gents; as always the camera flatters the subject. Smiley

Pete,
The UC legs were painted with Tamiya Acrylic XF-16 flat aluminium as was the prop. FWIW this and their metallic version are the best aluminium / NMF finish paints I've found.  If you use an appropriately sized brush and go for many thin, almost transparent, layers you can get a very convincing almost completely brush-stroke free finish on most surfaces.  As I said elsewhere (very) gently sanding the surface off the stems seems to help with paint adhesion.

Cheers,
Lurk.

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