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Author Topic: Basswood leading edge  (Read 1046 times)
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shhhhh!
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« on: March 22, 2014, 10:50:49 AM »

Looks like a lot of the plans for TLGs show a 1/16 bass wood leading edge. Plans also show up sweep for the leading edge.. about .06".
So does one sand in the ideal airfoil,sand back about 1/16th and then place the bass wood,then contour the basswood to the correct shape or???what do you guys do?? If one places the bass wood at the very base of the wing blank...By the time the airfoil is sanded in there won't be any bass wood left due to the up sweep of the leading edge???
Thanks,
-dave
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Tmat
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« Reply #1 on: March 22, 2014, 10:59:02 AM »

Dave, I glue the Basswood to the leading first before I shape the blank. I use 1/16" x 3/16" basswood so there is no issue with there not being enough basswood after shaping. I wet the basswood, (soak in hot water for 15 minutes or so) and wipe off the excess water with a paper towel. Then I apply the basswood to the leading edge a bit at a time using thin CA. Others might use different methods.

Tmat
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« Reply #2 on: March 22, 2014, 11:44:47 AM »

Thanks Tony....using 1/16 by 3/16 makes sense!! 1/16 square would not leave enough for shaping........
-dave
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« Reply #3 on: June 26, 2017, 10:13:23 PM »

Just as a follow-on ...
As I haven't got ready access to 1/16" basswood here in Melbourne, I'm going to inset a strip of 1/64 ply into a machine-cut slot in the LE of the DiscusKid wing that I'll be carving this weekend.
It's a slightly different question to what was posed, but does the height of the LE apex decrease toward the tips, or is it the same height all the way along the span? The DiscusKid plan shows a measurement of 0.065", which I assume is at the root, but I don't know about the tip.
Any advice is welcome. 
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« Reply #4 on: June 27, 2017, 05:25:28 AM »

If you are looking for bass wood try Melbourne artists suppliers 34 Little La Trobe Street  they had has stock last week. 
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Ployd
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« Reply #5 on: June 27, 2017, 09:10:54 PM »

Hi Shackas

1/64" ply is a bit too thin to be useful as a leading edge insert and would suggest 1/16" would be a better choice or alternatively you can wrap a strip of 1/16 x 1/8 ply at the front of the leading edge then sand down to get the nose profile. Check your local hobby shop or Bunnings and see if they have Balsa Central sourced Basswood ply, much easier to sand. Failing that I do sell Basswood ply but it depends on where you are in Melbourne.

Ployd in OZ
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« Reply #6 on: June 27, 2017, 10:30:37 PM »

Thanks w-Tom and Ployd,

Peter - I'm on Bell Street in Preston, so an easy drive out to you.

Cheers,
Dave
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« Reply #7 on: June 28, 2017, 12:21:33 AM »

If you are looking for bass wood try Melbourne artists suppliers 34 Little La Trobe Street  they had has stock last week. 

I popped in the CBD at lunchtime. Saw what they call bass (although the very light colour makes it looks more like Sitka spruce to me) and picked up a couple of sticks. Also did a quick hunt through their balsa and found a nice piece of 8 mm x 4" x 36" quartergain that will no-doubt end up as a Sweepette 36" wing.
Thanks again for the tip.
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« Reply #8 on: June 28, 2017, 07:30:37 AM »

Glad it was helpful how did i miss a sheet of 8mm quarter grain  looking forward to seeing the the plane.
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« Reply #9 on: June 28, 2017, 08:15:15 AM »

I frequently use 1/32 or 1/16 basswood for edging the leading and training edges of balsa prop blades as well as for cat glider wings. One thing I've noticed is that basswood does have a grain. You can't see it (at least I can't) but you will notice it if you start carving with a knife. If you go slow and make short, shallow cuts, there usually is no problem. A longer cut can suddenly start to turn into a too-deep cut. Then you have to revise direction and cut back the other direction. Using a razor plane to make shallow cuts works much better. Leave the edging a bit higher when carving and sand down to the wanted hight and shape.

Having sais all this, bass is still a much better choice for edging than spruce.

Louis

PS The grain problem also shows up when I try to cut strips from a sheet of basswood using a knife and straightedge. Even in 1/32, I have to make multiple shallow passes to avoid the grain problem. Buying the expensive thin strips sold for model railroad use (i.e. HO-scale 2x4 lumber) dose not help; I frequently find pieces with the grain not parallel to the strip.
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Hepcat
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« Reply #10 on: June 28, 2017, 12:45:37 PM »

What interests me is how often I see the advice to always search through all the balsa in the stockist to see if there is a magical piece of four pound wood and, if there is, to buy it whether you need it at the moment or not.  What I never see is the advice to look through the balsa stock for a sheet of straight grained twenty pound wood.  I treasure the few bits of heavy (strong) balsa that I have and it is surprising  how often they are useful.  One recent example a stuffing stick for a small indoor model, not much room, the stronger and thinner the stick the better. Back right on topic; a lot of my catapult gliders had very hard balsa leading edge strips and balsa blends very well with balsa.
John
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« Reply #11 on: June 28, 2017, 02:46:13 PM »

Hello John

I too like hard LE strips for chuckie leading edges - the harder the balsa the better!

Peter
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Shackas
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« Reply #12 on: June 29, 2017, 01:45:58 AM »

Glad it was helpful how did i miss a sheet of 8mm quarter grain  looking forward to seeing the the plane.

Build shouldn't take too long, especially seeing as the fus tubes arrived from Goodwinds on Tuesday. Hoping plane will be ready for test flying at VFFS field by mid-July.
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Shackas
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« Reply #13 on: July 01, 2017, 09:13:53 PM »

Hi Shackas

1/64" ply is a bit too thin to be useful as a leading edge insert and would suggest 1/16" would be a better choice.

Ployd in OZ

Advice taken Ployd.

Square groove has been routered along the full length of the LE using a Dremel 1/16" milling bit, and 1/16" square bass will be glued into the slot.
For the cutting, a motortool was mounted beneath the Dremel router table with the bit protruding 1/16" above the table. Then all I had to do was set up the guide so that the bottom of the groove is a constant thickness of 1/20" from the bottom of the LE.
Nice and neat, and should ensure the maximum thickness of bass remains after shaping the LE profile.
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Re: Basswood leading edge
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Ployd
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« Reply #14 on: August 02, 2017, 11:18:29 PM »

Peter - I'm on Bell Street in Preston, so an easy drive out to you.

You are always welcome to drive over and get some ideas.

Ployd in OZ
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