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Author Topic: West Wings Tempest Mk V for FAC WWII Combat?  (Read 16044 times)
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MKelly
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« Reply #75 on: October 20, 2016, 04:45:30 PM »

Thanks all.  I've covered one side of the fin and stab with esaki chordwise pre-shrunk (2x) on a frame - this is working well so far.  I'm about to do the other side.  Will go after the wing this evening after cutting the gun ports and giving it one more finish sanding session.

Mike
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MKelly
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« Reply #76 on: October 21, 2016, 12:11:04 PM »

I can see why esaki tissue is preferred!  Fin and stab came out pretty well off the frames, but had some small wrinkles near the curved tips.  A light mist of water on both sides and a little time to dry (supported by blocks to keep things straight) and they look better than any I've done before using kit/domestic tissue.

Mike
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MKelly
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« Reply #77 on: October 21, 2016, 03:04:52 PM »

Gunports, cut with sharpened brass tubing.  Cut only goes through the first layer of the leading edge lamination.  Later model Tempests used shorter 20mm cannon completely buried in the wing, so you don't have to worry about breaking off the cannon fairings like you do with a Typhoon.  Final sanding took more time than I thought, but the wing is now ready to cover.

Mike
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Pat D
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« Reply #78 on: October 21, 2016, 04:25:23 PM »

Great craftsmanship Mike

Enjoying watching this come together so nicely

Pat
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MKelly
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« Reply #79 on: October 22, 2016, 08:38:46 PM »

Thanks Pat!

Wing is covered.  Not the best covering job - I pre-shrunk the tissue without putting it into a frame, which caused it to take a "pebbly" texture.  This texture didn't all come out when I shrunk the wing covering.  It's not bad enough to rip it off and start over, but it doesn't look nearly as good as the tail.  Next time I'll either skip pre-shrinking or will pre-shrink on a frame.  The good news is the wing is straight and the washout held.

I also infilled the radiator-fuselage seam and framed out the exhaust port opening on the fuselage.  Just a few more bits of detail work to go before covering it.

Mike
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tom arnold
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« Reply #80 on: October 22, 2016, 10:50:08 PM »

For the wing (if you have not doped it yet), I'd suggest going through a couple of soakings and fast dryings to see if you can get the surface smooth. Sometimes it works and it can't get worse. You might try force drying with a hair dryer an underside wingtip section as a last resort too as an experiment. I have sometimes had success with that......and sometimes not.

I am never hesitant to recover. If you have used glue stick or dilute white glue to attach the tissue, it is an easy job to drown the wing in the bathtub for 24 hours and the tissue practically floats off for a recovering. Water soaking does NOT warp the wing by the way. It makes it soggy and flexible but it will dry in the position you built it in.

Beautiful job on the chin air intake and the nose area too----really nice wood work.
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strat-o
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« Reply #81 on: October 22, 2016, 11:22:22 PM »

Before soaking the wing in water make sure the glue you used is water-proof.  I think aliphatic (yellow glue) is but I'm not certain.
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OZPAF
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« Reply #82 on: October 23, 2016, 03:03:10 AM »

Actually mike the wing looks pretty good to my eyes. Very nice fuse too.

John
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Mooney
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« Reply #83 on: October 23, 2016, 06:49:51 PM »

Me too.  Go easy on yourself, Mike.
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MKelly
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« Reply #84 on: October 24, 2016, 03:42:13 PM »

Thanks all - the camera hides the little stuff the eyes see.

Tom, thanks for the tips.  I did two cycles of douse-and-dry, which took the worst of the texture out and got me to the point where I decided not to re-cover the wing.  I spot-wet the remaining wrinkle areas, which made them a little better yet, and went ahead and doped the wing.  Not perfect, but it will do.  Saturday's pics are of the doped wing.

I took yesterday off to go to the USGP in Austin, then got back at it this morning.  After mocking up the underwing structure, I began covering the fuselage at the scoop.  Three pieces (side-bottom-side) applied wet with the grain vertical  came out pretty well.

There's going to be some long nights this week to have it ready by Friday, but I'm up for it!

Mike
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FLYACE1946
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« Reply #85 on: October 24, 2016, 04:24:49 PM »

Sure is looking GREAT.
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MKelly
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« Reply #86 on: October 24, 2016, 09:27:48 PM »

Thanks Allen!

Had a productive day - fuselage is covered and ready to install the wing.  Couldn't resist putting the components together for some pictures.

Mike
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tom arnold
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« Reply #87 on: October 25, 2016, 12:22:31 AM »

After getting everything stuck together, you might try on your stooge for size. That big fillet and the forward motor peg location might foul against the stooge arms and break up the fillet edge with some pressure. Please don't ask me how I know that can happen on a hot day at the flying field and hours from your shop......
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strat-o
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« Reply #88 on: October 25, 2016, 01:13:36 AM »

It might look odd but you could probably get the job done winding it inverted.
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MKelly
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« Reply #89 on: October 25, 2016, 08:53:20 AM »

Tom,

Good call.  I hope to use the rear peg location, but we'll see how she balances out.

Mike
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Modelace
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« Reply #90 on: October 25, 2016, 11:46:47 AM »

I am at a loss to see why your model might foul against your stooge...WITHOUT SEEING THE STOOGE!!
Did I miss something??
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MKelly
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« Reply #91 on: October 25, 2016, 10:11:33 PM »

ModelAce,  Tom was just reminding me to check clearances on the stooge.  Turns out the fairings are not in the way, but the depth of the fuselage at the forward peg location is sufficient to interfere with a protruding screw on the stooge.  I will nip the offending excess fastener length off.

Got the wing mounted, underfuselage and fairing structures installed, and the rest of the fuselage covered today.  Pictures show how I checked for wing-fuselage alignment.  This kit self-jigs this joint really well - no problems at all getting it square and level.  Underfuselage and fairing structure was tedious but came out fine, and I'm quite happy with how well a single piece of tissue covered the bottom from scoop to tail.  For those keeping track, tissue was applied wet with the grain perpendicular to the stringers.

I also got all the paint colors today (local hobby shop was closed for the weekend as the owner is a race fan).  I'm headed out to the garage for doping...

Mike
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OZPAF
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« Reply #92 on: October 26, 2016, 06:24:32 PM »

Mike you were worried about your wing covering Smiley Your covering really stands out. You fellows amaze me with your covering efforts.
How do you intend to do the wing fillets - card, thin balsa?
John
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MKelly
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« Reply #93 on: October 26, 2016, 06:48:46 PM »

Thanks!  Fillets are bond paper. Will post pics of them tonight.
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MKelly
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« Reply #94 on: October 26, 2016, 11:12:07 PM »

Still plugging away.  Made the wing fillets from bond paper per kit plans.  The way the kit splits the fillet into three pieces per side leaves a rather obvious seam/step in the fillet, but I've done worse in the past.  I sanded the joint lightly with 600 grit, which helped, but it still shows after painting.

The kit ignores the cannon fairings on the wing upper surface, but they show pretty dramatically in pictures of the aircraft so I decided to make them.  I cut a template from 1/16 ply, used that to cut four identical blanks from soft 3/32 sheet, then spot-glued them to the template and sanded each blank to shape.  After checking reference drawings, I made a paper alignment template and glued the bumps to the upper wing surface.  A little white glue around the edges to give a clean joint with the covering and I'm calling that detail done.

Painting has begun using Tamiya acrylics.  Upper and lower gray shades are sprayed, along with white for the invasion stripes under the rear fuselage (see picture for the markings - this aircraft only had stripes under the fuselage).  Still have to do the green, black stripes, and sky spinner/band.

In between the other tasks I built a simple noseblock, made a wedge drilling stand, and drilled the block with ModelAce's patented 4 degree thrust offset.  Kit came with a very heavy 7-1/4" prop.  I replaced that with a Peck prop of same size.  I've made a second nose block and will bring smaller and larger props just in case trimming suggests a different size.

Mike
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MKelly
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« Reply #95 on: October 27, 2016, 11:50:03 AM »

This morning was dedicated to painting the dark green, which is the most tedious of the colors since this is where you spray the pattern.  I found online an image of a set of plastic model masks for the Tempest.  Pasted the image into Powerpoint, scaled it to match, printed it, cut and applied to the model using loops of Washi tape.  Took an hour to mask the model, half an hour to paint it and clean the airbrush, then another half hour to remove all the masking.  Using the masks kind of felt like cheating, but we roll for Gainesville in less than 24 hours.  Next up:  sky band, invasion stripes, and the yellow leading edges.

Mike
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FLYACE1946
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« Reply #96 on: October 27, 2016, 12:57:45 PM »

Mike this is really looking great. Glad to know the project is moving along well.
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Prosper
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« Reply #97 on: October 27, 2016, 01:29:54 PM »

Very smooth work Mike! I can't see how using spray masks could be thought of as cheating, and the result is really good. The cannon drum fairings set it off - wouldn't be a Tempest without 'em Smiley. Kudos.

Stephen.
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Modelace
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« Reply #98 on: October 27, 2016, 03:10:34 PM »

My "patented" thrust offset is 3 degrees, down and right. My "patented" noseblock drilling jig that gives that result is a  4-1/4 degree wedge.
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MKelly
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« Reply #99 on: October 27, 2016, 04:54:27 PM »

ModelAce,  please forgive my late-night oversimplification.  My wedge block was cut at 4 degrees, so my down and side-thrust will be slightly under 3 degrees each.

Cheers,

Mike
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