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Author Topic: VMC cookup?  (Read 13012 times)
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Pete Fardell
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« Reply #100 on: June 04, 2017, 05:00:55 PM »

Enjoying the great builds so far. With outdoor projects completed for the time being, I'm (belatedly) ready to join in this cookup and have started on the SE5a. When I say 'started' I mean I've pinned the plan to the board and freed precisely two ribs from the excellent wood of the laser cut sheets. Really looking forward to this one!
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danmellor
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« Reply #101 on: June 04, 2017, 05:27:40 PM »

I need to get my finger out and get stuck into the Camel. Can you suffer from ADHD at 51??!

Dan.
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Jack Plane
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« Reply #102 on: June 04, 2017, 05:45:30 PM »

Can you suffer from ADHD at 51??!

Sorry, I meant to reply to this earlier, but I got distracted!  Grin
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Pete Fardell
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« Reply #103 on: June 17, 2017, 06:58:38 AM »

Wings made. Only one mistake so far (that I know about): I used the light 1/16 square strip wood for one of the lower spars, rather than the stuff from the stiffer sheet as specified in the instructions. How nice to have the choice though. Very impressed how the parts fit so exactly over the drawing and go together so well.
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rgroener
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« Reply #104 on: June 20, 2017, 01:49:07 AM »

Pete, looking good. I dont know why, but the Se5a always looks like a compact litte plane. I like that a lot. I am sure this one will be a heck of a flyer!
Keep the news coming...

I did some work on the cockpit panel. Since I have a pilot for the moth, I did not want a printed instrument panel in this plane.
The 3D instruments are not scale, not even the layout of the instruments. But in my oppinion, this kind of cockpit panel fits better in my planes.

Roman
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danmellor
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« Reply #105 on: June 20, 2017, 04:29:42 AM »

Everyone's models are looking far more advanced than mine...! I have looked at the plan, honest!

Dan.
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rgroener
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« Reply #106 on: June 21, 2017, 03:00:04 AM »

Dan, thats a start, start slow and increase the pace Grin
Roman
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danmellor
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« Reply #107 on: June 21, 2017, 04:07:38 AM »

Tee Hee! I have got the tail surfaces together inbetween Cub bits!

Cheers,

Dan.
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rgroener
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« Reply #108 on: June 22, 2017, 12:52:49 AM »

Great Dan, now we want to see pictures Grin
Good to have an other plane on the way.
Roman
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Pete Fardell
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« Reply #109 on: June 25, 2017, 11:40:03 AM »

SE5 tail parts done- all very easy. Have also made the jigs for aligning the wings. I'm looking forward to using these.

On to the fuselage now...
I agree with you, Roman- there is something about the compactness of an SE5A which is very pleasing to the eye.      

(Loving the Tiger Moth cockpits by the way!)                                                                                                                                                                       
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rgroener
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« Reply #110 on: July 17, 2017, 02:53:41 PM »

Time is running fast.... My Tiger Moth is not finished yet, but it looks like an airplane. There are some details that have to be done, but the first flight tests are near...
The wing has started to warp a bit, I have to try to remove it but it is a bit more complicated with two wings....

Any news on the other projects?

Roman
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danmellor
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« Reply #111 on: July 18, 2017, 03:34:38 AM »

Roman, that's lovely! I will get going on the Camel soon...Promise!

Dan.
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Jack Plane
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« Reply #112 on: July 18, 2017, 07:20:39 AM »

Roman, I'm wowed!  I love these kits... and the justice being done to the spirit of them.   Smiley

The kid got the Jodel for his birthday, and is keen to get cracking when he's at home with me for the second half of his summer hols.

Jon
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DHnut
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« Reply #113 on: July 18, 2017, 05:09:34 PM »

The Jodel I purchased at Barkston in May is ready for covering, the wings and tail were built in Fiji and the fuselage completed at home. It was a nice build with just a little cleaning up nibs and light sanding. One question I have is, why is leading edge a flat one not a 1/8 square that is so much easier when covering? I am sure there was some rational Andrew.
Ricky   
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Andrew Darby
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« Reply #114 on: July 18, 2017, 05:51:01 PM »

Hi Ricky,

I thought it was simpler to construct with the locational notches and ability to be completely flat on the board.  I guess it all boils down to the trade off between the odd wrinkle and an easily constructed wing.  My thought always was that a wrinkle looks bad, but doesn't stop the model flying, whilst a bend, bow, twist or a warp will.

I have had similar conversations regarding the tissue.  It has a limited wet strength, but it doesn't shrink aggressively. Again the reduced risk of warps and twist trumps the odd wrinkle.

Less of an issue - but an issue nevertheless, was that the brief from VMC was to do everything from 1/16" sheet...

Personally I have never found this type of wing to be difficult to cover, but I cut my teeth on the old Veron stuff which was a similar construction, so perhaps I have been conditioned to it  Shocked

I guess you could put some soft 1/16" square on the leading edge between each pair of ribs and sand it back -to help with the covering?

Andrew
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« Reply #115 on: July 21, 2017, 10:56:57 PM »

Andrew,
            Thanks for the explantion. I thought rationalisation of materials sizes was part of the reason, and also the reasoning behind the tissue also makes perfect sense as Esaki can be quite agressive when it shrinks. I think I have to rethink my method when covering this type of structure. One benefit of the deep leading edge is the abilty to resist collisions with chair and table leg an as you say an infill between ribs is an easy fix if I want more contact area. Today is covering day for the Jodel in a yellow and white scheme of a local aeroplane.
Ricky
 
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Andrew Darby
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« Reply #116 on: July 22, 2017, 04:31:22 AM »

Hi Ricky,

I have never had the tissue part company on the leading edge, my thought was that the in-fills would help prevent annoying wrinkles that may want to form at the leading edge between the ribs, more than providing additional bonding area, but that is a good idea too.  Grin

Table and chair legs are the scourge of the indoor flyer aren't they?  Angry

Any chance of some pictures?
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rgroener
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« Reply #117 on: July 23, 2017, 02:54:45 PM »

Ricky, post some pictures, I am looking forward to see them. Pictures are always inspiring for me Grin

I did the hub caps with the de Havilland logo.
I first tried to draw them by hand, but then gave up after several attempts... It looked like from a first grader... I would even say from an untalented first grader Tongue
So I used the cutter...

I also did some physiotherapy to the wing to get rid of the warp. The front view looks good at the moment, the wings on both sides seem to have the same incident.
I am crossing my fingers, that it stays like this.
The weather was not ideal, but I wanted to try if it flies straight.
And it did... Grin Since it was a bit windy, I did not want to provoke some damage and stopped after taking some pictures.
It seems to fly nicely, I am looking forward to do some more test flights in calmer weather.

Next steps are the pilot and some rigging.

The weight as seen but without rubber is 26.2 gramms.

Roman

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Andrew Darby
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« Reply #118 on: July 23, 2017, 03:00:40 PM »

That looks fantastic in the air Roman.  I wish I could take pictures that good!

I think that is much lighter than my prototype, and with all of that wing it should fly well.

The hub caps look well worth the effort...

Andrew

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Pete Fardell
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« Reply #119 on: July 25, 2017, 02:06:11 PM »

I agree- that's looking wonderful, Roman!

Bit more progress on the SE5a. Fuselage now together, so all the main pieces are made. I've never built a kit where the pieces fit so well. It's more like putting together a plastic Airfix kit than a balsa one.
I'm still set on doing the blue tailed racing scheme. The consensus is that the rudder should probably be blue like the fin, but otherwise the profile shows what it will, hopefully, look like. I'm quite inclined to use the kit's brown tissue unless someone warns me off it. (I know that Andrews Darby and Sephton didn't quite see eye to eye on its quality at one stage!  Cheesy)
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rgroener
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« Reply #120 on: July 26, 2017, 12:59:19 AM »

Pete, nice progress on you Se5a.
The tissue in the kit looked nice, but since I decided to do a  differen colour scheme, I did not use it.
I am interested in hearing how the kit tissue works for you.

Roman
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Andrew Darby
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« Reply #121 on: July 26, 2017, 02:42:15 AM »

Looking good Pete.

The kit tissue is fine it shrinks ok and is reasonably light and in general the colour density is good.  BUT unlike Esaki It has little wet strength, so it has to be used dry.  I think this is what Andy didn't like about it (the lack of wet strength that is)

Because of this the best way to attach it is either the dope and thinners method, or glue stick and sealing the overlapping edges only with PVA. Ie not too much water around.

IIRC, I think Andy was testing the new deluxe products tissue paste using it which was obviously water based and the tissue broke up, leading him to his conclusion.  I think that the same would happen for any "domestic" tissue.

Nearly all of the models in the series pictured on the VMC website are covered with it...

I guess the best bet if you are unsure is to try some, the sheets are quite large so there is enough for a trial.

Andrew
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Pete Fardell
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« Reply #122 on: July 26, 2017, 04:41:08 AM »

Thanks, Andrew. That sounds promising as I've started using the glue stick method anyway on recent models. Do you think it'll still be okay to steam shrink with a kettle once on?
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Andrew Darby
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« Reply #123 on: July 26, 2017, 05:21:09 AM »

I just go full pelt with water from a sprayer, just give it long enough to go off (overnight is best)  I always do the fin and tail plane early doors, and once dope leave them between two heavy books until required.

The key thing is the combination of both the glue stick and PVA taking advantages of the characteristics of both.  What I mean by that is the glue stick provides most of the adhesion on the big surfaces and doesn't wet the tissue, but it isn't good on edges which the PVA is.

for the sake of completeness - at the risk of teaching you to suck eggs...

https://www.vintagemodelcompany.com/how-to-cover-your-model-with-tissue.html

Andrew
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Pete Fardell
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« Reply #124 on: July 26, 2017, 05:39:18 AM »

Cheers, Andrew. I took a long while to come round to gluestick covering (my initial unsuccessful forays were with a gluestick that wasn't slimy enough I think) and the combination of the stick but with PVA for the edges is still new to me, so no danger of any egg sucking grandmother scenerios here!

While I'm here, can I just re-recommend to anyone the photo instructions for this and other VMC kits (downloadable free on the VMC site). There is nothing wrong with the written instruction booklet in the box, but the photo version is so much easier to absorb I find!
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