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Author Topic: Avetek Pilatus PC9  (Read 6189 times)
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rgroener
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« Reply #100 on: February 06, 2017, 10:39:30 AM »

Gwyn, thanks for your clarification.

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rgroener
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« Reply #101 on: February 24, 2017, 02:18:11 AM »

Have you started giving this beauty a coloured dress?
Roman
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ZK-AUD
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« Reply #102 on: February 24, 2017, 02:07:30 PM »

Hi Roman.  No not yet.  I've been busy with the 2 big (1/5) Tiger Moths that Gwyn and I are building for .91 4 stroke.  Funnily enough though today I am down at our air force base at Ohakea for a big air show  at which the Beech T6C team will be performing.   These being the American built version.  Thanks for reminding me that i need to blow same colour on the PC9M.  By the way I loved the flying shots of your Pacer and travelair
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rgroener
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« Reply #103 on: February 26, 2017, 12:28:34 PM »

Dont hurry, I just wanted to ask if there are some news...
Good to hear that you are busy building and enjoying the airshow.
I hope to post more pictures after our spring meeting next month. At the moment I am busy eating out to make sure that the weather is nice Grin


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rgroener
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« Reply #104 on: August 14, 2017, 01:17:48 AM »

I couldn't resist and started your PC-9 Kit  Cheesy
What do you prefer, should I start a separate thread or post to this PC-9 thread?
I dont care and can see pro and contra arguments for both ways...

Best regards Roman
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« Reply #105 on: August 14, 2017, 02:41:15 AM »

that's great news Roman!!  if you do it here it's possibly easier to compare notes but I have no preference.  Just looking forward to seeing someone else build one
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rgroener
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« Reply #106 on: August 15, 2017, 01:48:46 AM »

I thought the same, I like it if there is one thread for the one kit. This way you have all the information about this kit in one place. But I know also that other people prefer to have their own thread for every new plane.... Therefore I thought asking couldn't hurt Wink

I will post progress here soon.

Roman
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rgroener
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« Reply #107 on: August 20, 2017, 11:03:15 AM »

Here is what I have so far.
The wing parts are nearly done, including most of the sanding.
Stab and rudder still need some sanding...

I started the first half of the fuselage. Next will be to take the fuselage from the building board and add the other half of the formers.

I plan to make the landing gear removable since I mostly fly over grass but want to be able to fly it indoor.
Most likely I will make the front part of the fuselage with wood and not with the delivered molded plastic part. There is nothing wrong with the plastic part, the quality looks very good. It's more my personal antipathy against plastic.... Roll Eyes

I will take the weight of your PC-9 as my goal. I have to fight for it.

Roman

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Sky9pilot
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« Reply #108 on: August 20, 2017, 10:41:08 PM »

Looks like we're going to have two very nice looking PC-9's.  Keep up the great work!
Tom
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« Reply #109 on: February 05, 2018, 06:27:05 AM »

I did some more work on the fuselage. This thing is quite big, nearly as long as the  span of the bird Smiley
It looks still rough, since no sanding is done yet. There are some bits missing before I can start with the sanding.
I also have to study the nose part a bit. I will replace the plastig part and use balsa instead. It's nothing wrong with the plastic parts, they look nice, but I just prefer wood.

Roman
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« Reply #110 on: February 05, 2018, 02:02:19 PM »

Looking good Roman.
I re-read this thread to pick up on changes Mike ZK made for the "new" laser cut version. My kit is the original die cut, and had problems with the wing saddle/center section matching. (Chord of center section was longer than the space in the saddle pieces)
If Mike checks in here, what incidence is recommended? Did the LE get notched,or was a combination of trimming the TE and LE used, to allow the wing to seat properly under the fuselage? Thanks!
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Sky9pilot
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« Reply #111 on: February 13, 2018, 12:17:08 AM »

I was having some difficulty with your drawing in reply #72 understanding the thrust bearing rear seat and prop shaft bushing.  I redrew the drawing as best I could looking at the Scout nose block as well.  I'd love to know if this is accurate (though not to any scale) or are there changes that need to be made.  Thanks Mike for your original drawing and pictures.
Tom
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« Reply #112 on: February 13, 2018, 02:49:18 AM »

Tom you got it 100% right.  Thanks for providing this much superior drawing.  The only addition I would now make is a spacer (brass tube) behind the prop to stop it coming back and possibly binding on the drive dog
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Sky9pilot
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« Reply #113 on: February 13, 2018, 04:43:44 PM »

Mike,
Here's a revised drawing hopefully expressing what you suggested.
Tom
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« Reply #114 on: February 13, 2018, 04:57:18 PM »

Tom, I think the drawing would be confusing for people unfamiliar with the setup - I don't think its really clear that there is a spacer.  I just went back to the Bristol Scout photos in reply # 69 and they show a second smaller soldered washer immediately behind the prop which stops it coming back into contact with the mechanism. (forgot I had done it that way!)  Check out photos 1 and 4 which make that really clear.  Possibly you should draw it like that
http://www.hippocketaeronautics.com/hpa_forum/index.php?topic=20305.50  Sorry I couldn't work out how to create a link straight to the spot but this is close!
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strat-o
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« Reply #115 on: February 13, 2018, 05:10:45 PM »

This is a really versatile design, I think.  I can imagine it working well for a pusher with a spinner (like a Mitsubishi Shinden, for example) with almost no modification required.
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« Reply #116 on: February 13, 2018, 06:44:02 PM »

Mike
I see what you're talking about.  The extended brass tube would probably work as well, but you were using a rear prop plate and a front prop plate so this washer would seem to give a broader surface for the rear prop plate to rest on.  I did a bit of photoshop to your picture to see if I got what you referred to.

Modified drawing #3  Grin Wink Cool
Tom
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« Reply #117 on: February 13, 2018, 07:03:41 PM »

Yep you nailed it! I would make it clear in the diagram that that washer is also soldered on.  You could show meniscii of solder on all the soldered bits. L
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« Reply #118 on: February 13, 2018, 07:07:25 PM »

Back to the CAD program... Grin Wink Cool I actually think I can build one of these now!!!! So it was worth the effort! Wink
edit:  drawing 3a_2
Tom
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« Reply #119 on: February 13, 2018, 09:18:11 PM »

MKelly had this suggestion..."The drawing looks good.  The only suggestion I have is to move the drive pin closer to the drive shaft - it needs to be inside the radius of the clutch dog pivot point so the clutch dog can pass over the pin when freewheeling."
Mike

Here's the, I believe, final draft of the drawing:
Tom
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