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Author Topic: Tissue sticking  (Read 806 times)
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Elkhart
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« on: January 17, 2017, 10:20:44 AM »

For sealing the tissue, I've had success with Krylon in the past, but I don't like spraying in the winter. I've started using EZ Dope, and so far it seems to be a good product. Spraying one coat of 5% EZ Dope on with an atomizer, and painting on two coats of 30% seems to produce a nice finish on the fuselage and wings. The problem with the tail is that the doped tissue sags and sticks to the tissue on the opposite side, which then dries stuck together. I tried placing a piece of wax paper between the tissue, but it still stuck together. So how do you dope the rudder and stabilizer without the tissue sticking together?
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ZK-AUD
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« Reply #1 on: January 17, 2017, 11:56:15 AM »

You could try doping one side at a time for the first coat, until the tissue gets some strength from the dope.  You could also try applying the dope using a small sponge in a wiping motion with minimal downward pressure
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Hepcat
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« Reply #2 on: January 17, 2017, 12:32:56 PM »

I first came across this problem almost exactly seventy years ago when I designed a simple glider for the youngsters in the club and for simplicity I used a flat plate tail.  The water shrinking stage was actually the most nuisance because after the tissue had tightened with the water the doping was not so bad.  Anyway the routine was to wet (or dope) one side and to support the component upside down (so that the tissue hung down away from the other side) until it was dry.  The procedure was then repeated for the other side.  Another obvious way would be to complete one side, covering and doping, and then the other.  We avoided this because we thought the likely hood of warping was too high.
John 
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Crabby
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« Reply #3 on: January 17, 2017, 01:17:56 PM »

work vertically!
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The Threadkiller!
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« Reply #4 on: January 17, 2017, 01:52:57 PM »

Just another thought - if you are faced with the situation of both surfaces stuck together you need to work quickly but I have (courtesy of a diabetic friend) a hypodermic that I keep for just such an eventuality (and no other purpose!)  A quick puff of air injected into the offending section can sometimes push them apart.  Also a couple of pieces of tamiya masking tape on each side can work if you can get them to stick
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Elkhart
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« Reply #5 on: January 18, 2017, 07:28:33 AM »

I'm surprised this isn't a more common problem with dope. Covering one side at a time wouldn't work, at least the way I'm doing it. The second side will still stick. Flipping it vertically might work. Is it the application technique? I'm using a soft #2 china brush, not sopping it on. Almost dry brushing, but enough dope to cover in one pass without streaking.
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PB_guy
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« Reply #6 on: January 18, 2017, 12:50:05 PM »

This only works with non-volatile products!!!!!
When I use a brush-on acrylic type finish like Future, or Armstrong's floor shine, I have a straw handy. When (not if) the two sides adhere, I quickly grab my plastic straw and suction the stuck tissue apart. Do not do this with dope!!!
ian
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Elkhart
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« Reply #7 on: January 18, 2017, 09:26:47 PM »

Ian, very clever! I suppose an eye dropper or ear suction tool would make it safe to do with the more toxic stuff.

Well, I became tired of pulling off the tissue and recovering. I sprayed it with Krylon and moved on.
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dwidrick
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« Reply #8 on: March 22, 2018, 12:52:54 AM »

Try cleaning brush off more after dipping it in dope or other finish till not much on it and then use the side of brush almost flat on part. It may take couple more coats but better than the other!
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David
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« Reply #9 on: March 23, 2018, 10:31:52 AM »

Try cleaning brush off more after dipping it in dope or other finish till not much on it and then use the side of brush almost flat on part. It may take couple more coats but better than the other!

Its funny, I used to get this problem quite a bit when I first starting building flying models many, many years ago. It was normally on a tailplane build from 1/16" strips, and was very annoying. I have not knowingly changed habits but for some reason it just never happens now. I have always used thinned cellulose dope as a shrinking agent, after first shrinking with lick, or fine spray of water mist. One thing, I only ever use Esaki tissue nowadays, and I wonder if this smooth tissue does not allow as much fluid to pass through as other more absorbent tissues? Just a thought .
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Richard Crossley
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