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Author Topic: Fokker Dr1 for indoor scale - Build  (Read 3517 times)
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Rich Moore
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« on: March 10, 2017, 06:16:35 PM »

Well, this is something else that I started a while ago. I managed to build the basic fuselage and tailplane until life got in the way and the build got put on hold. They have been sobbing in the dark corner of a cupboard until now.

I've basically scaled down my outdoor model. I think it is a factor of 75% which gives this one a wing span of about 21". If I was starting it now, I would probably have aimed at a 24" wingspan, but I've started, so I'll finish.

So, tonight, I've made a start on the top wing. I have changed the structure to a single spar, but I am still going to sheet between the spar and leading edge, as the prototype, to create a strong box structure. The model will be one piece, which should save some weight. As this one is for indoor, and a relatively small model, I need to watch the weight, but I still have a short nose, so there is the opportunity for another Le Rhone, which, to be honest, I'm not too thrilled about, so it may be a simplified one. I may rebuild the tailplane, as I think I've got carried away here - it is a bit too heavy.

I am going to model the same aircraft as the outdoor one, so it'll be piloted by a mini Ltn Wenzel.
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Fokker Dr1 for indoor scale - Build
Fokker Dr1 for indoor scale - Build
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Balsa Ace
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« Reply #1 on: March 11, 2017, 06:14:28 AM »

Nice work,I'll be following your build.

Scott
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DavidJP
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« Reply #2 on: March 11, 2017, 07:52:25 AM »

When I first saw this I thought you meant a Peanut and was immediately curious how you would go about it so I could compare notes with my one which is now showing signs of wear and tear as the walls keep closing in. 

I have zero dihedral and only very slight positive incidence in the tail plane. The later arrived at from much trimming.  How will you be dealing with these aspects please?   Compared to mine it looks enormous but far more practical.  Rubber powered I take it?  Although I am beginning to think electric more often now - it somehow seems more friendly generally. 

Looks good of course but you models always do.
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Rich Moore
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« Reply #3 on: March 11, 2017, 10:39:01 AM »

Quote
I have zero dihedral and only very slight positive incidence in the tail plane. The later arrived at from much trimming.  How will you be dealing with these aspects please?

Hi David - No dihedral and I'll initially set it up like my other Dr1 which had something like +5 degrees on the tailplane, relative to thrust line and see what happens. I don't think I am a light enough builder to get away with making a peanut one. (I do fancy having a go at peanut scale one day as I think it would do me good, but not a Dr.1).

Quote
Looks good of course but your models always do.

Oh, stop it.

Whilst I'm here - more ribs have been added to the top wing.
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DavidJP
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« Reply #4 on: March 11, 2017, 10:48:36 AM »

Gosh it looks like a DR1 already!!!  Cool
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« Reply #5 on: March 11, 2017, 03:10:16 PM »

Interesting stab structure. Do you know your wing incidences yet?
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DavidJP
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« Reply #6 on: March 12, 2017, 01:42:20 PM »

I always wait until the model if finished and assembled before I see what they are!




(Sorry - and preparing the meal and it maybe the wine making me irresponsible)
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abl
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« Reply #7 on: March 12, 2017, 01:50:07 PM »

Nice; I'm fascinated by how DR1's seem to survive with little or no dihedral, will be watching with interest.
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Rich Moore
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« Reply #8 on: March 14, 2017, 05:58:09 PM »

Progress so far - not a light-weight build at 20 grams so far. No doubt I'll triple this before I'm done, which is a shame as far as flying speed goes, but that's me. Wings still need tips, sockets for struts and the top wing need ailerons. The box structure on the wings gives good stiffness and will allow me to thin the t/e shamefully. And it is a satisfying reflection of the real structure. Plus, I love the way the sheeting dives below the surface of the tissue at the spar...
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Re: Fokker Dr1 for indoor scale - Build
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Rich Moore
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« Reply #9 on: March 14, 2017, 06:38:22 PM »

Regarding incidences, it'll be something like 2.5 degrees, 1.5 degrees, 1.5 degrees (top, mid, lower wing) +/- my inability.
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Pete Fardell
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« Reply #10 on: March 14, 2017, 07:46:36 PM »

Lovely set of wings, Rich. I'm enjoying this.
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tross
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« Reply #11 on: March 15, 2017, 09:55:22 AM »

Hi Rich,
Lovely set of wings, Rich. I'm enjoying this.
Of course, I agree with Pete.
Always a pleasure to watch you build these. Cheesy
2.5 degrees, 1.5 degrees, 1.5 degrees
I used to do it that way. (I'm off the reservation now, just ask Pete)
I'm curious where you set your stab angle in that set up.

Tony
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Rich Moore
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« Reply #12 on: March 15, 2017, 03:37:09 PM »

Stabiliser +5 degrees. I don't know why, but it works.
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« Reply #13 on: March 15, 2017, 04:06:48 PM »

Thanks Rich,
It's always cool to see what's working for everyone else. Smiley
Best regards

Tony
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daveh
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« Reply #14 on: March 15, 2017, 05:55:24 PM »

Looking like another lovely model on the way Rich. I particularly like the LE sheeting.

Dave
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Rich Moore
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« Reply #15 on: March 16, 2017, 05:58:16 PM »

I spent the evening sticking some of the additional bits to the fuselage. Upper formers are now on, ready to support the turtle-deck. These also provide a snug fit for the mid-wing and are located fore and aft of the wings leading edge, spar and curved trailing edge (currently being laminated together and so not yet added to wing). Then there are the classic sheeted sides and rear turtledeck that make it start looking like a Dr1. Most of the space forward of the cockpit is the mid-wing covered with two fitted metal panels. I will make a form and vacuum form styrene for these later in the build. If I get the cabanes in the right place this time (my biggest error on my big Dr1), they'll protrude from the join between the panels.

Just the rudder to do before I start messing about with the sticking out parts, like undercarriage and cabanes, ie wire bending.
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Re: Fokker Dr1 for indoor scale - Build
Re: Fokker Dr1 for indoor scale - Build
Re: Fokker Dr1 for indoor scale - Build
Re: Fokker Dr1 for indoor scale - Build
Re: Fokker Dr1 for indoor scale - Build
Re: Fokker Dr1 for indoor scale - Build
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Rich Moore
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« Reply #16 on: March 17, 2017, 05:19:14 PM »

Just a few bits added this evening...

I fitted the laminated wing cut out to the mid-wing. This was two laminations of 1/32" rectangular pieces which were glued together and bent around a 1/4" former last night. This evening, the dried piece was glued to the wing before being hacked delicately with a razor blade and sanded to suit the wing. Also, the balsa sheeting to the area forward of the cockpit has been added. The rectangular space between the wing and the cockpit is for the guns, which I'm looking forward to making.
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Re: Fokker Dr1 for indoor scale - Build
Re: Fokker Dr1 for indoor scale - Build
Re: Fokker Dr1 for indoor scale - Build
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Rich Moore
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« Reply #17 on: March 18, 2017, 08:19:34 AM »

well, I'm a numpty. Sheeting added last night is redundant because these will be covered by vac-formed styrene (as stated two posts ago by myself). Duh!
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skyraider
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« Reply #18 on: March 18, 2017, 11:34:49 AM »

Well done Rich! Excellent work! However you do realize the middle wing cut
out is incorrect, right?  This is often seen in reproduction aircraft for some reason
and never used on an original DR1. It is easier building-wise but if it were me, I'd
go with the original layout to remain Scale.  The change isn't that much different.
Just a friendly observation. Again, fantastic work and will be following along. Can't
wait to see what you come up with on the guns.

Skyraider
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Rich Moore
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« Reply #19 on: March 18, 2017, 01:11:36 PM »

You refer to the upstanding trailing edge I guess. I was thinking about this whilst food shopping this afternoon (no doubt with a vacant glazed look on my face, getting in everyone's way), and decided I must have done it wrong because I couldn't imagine how the cover sheeting was going to work with how I had done it. And I come home to find I have (done it wrong). Worse - someone's noticed! Thanks for the photo and yeah, I'll put this right. I clearly was in a world of my own last night and shouldn't have allowed myself to cut balsa. On the positive side, correction is easy and saves weight.
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Rich Moore
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« Reply #20 on: March 18, 2017, 04:16:43 PM »

Hacked the wing cut out until it is a bit closer to what it should be.
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« Reply #21 on: March 18, 2017, 04:17:28 PM »

Rich,
   I think the change will be a lot easier than you think. Matter of
fact may even help you in the long run besides less weight. Plus
you want to get the max amount of points for scale appearance if
that is taken into account. In all honesty, I think you'll be glad you
made the adjustment.

Skyraider
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yagua
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« Reply #22 on: March 20, 2017, 11:22:48 AM »

Beautifull model!!!
The thing that amaze me the most when reading about this plane is that it was the very first to have (almost) full control at the stick: flight controls, guns and gas!  Shocked
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Rich Moore
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« Reply #23 on: March 20, 2017, 06:17:38 PM »

To balance out the excitingness of becoming an uncle (again - 12th time!), here is something not very exciting. I've got to that point where I'm putting the required anchors to take the cabanes, undercarriage and struts. Small section ali tube has been added to the fuselage for the first two items. For the inter-plane struts I have added various bits of balsa, depending on the wing, mainly to give edges for tissue covering later (the struts main anchor is provided by the main spar). I started adding big patches of balsa between ribs for struts but decided this was adding too much wood and would wreck the saggy relief of the two lower wings. So I ripped them off and started again as follows.

Top wing requires a box on underside only, so it has a small section of balsa between ribs. The strut is near enough in the center of this bay at the top wing, so two pieces of balsa will be added later to complete the strut box.

The middle wing is a bit more of a nuisance as it has a strut on top surface and bottom surface. I have added a full depth piece of balsa where the back edge of the spar will be, which provides a tissue edge for the rear of the strut on both surfaces of the wing. There is also a piece added on top of main spar. I will sand a curve on the top side of these pieces to mimic the sag of the tissue on the upper surface. Again, sides to form a slot for the strut will be added later.

The strut intersects the lower wing alongside a rib, so this just needs a strip of balsa alongside the top edge of a rib. Careful sanding should mean the strip doesn't poke out due to the sagging of tissue.

Also added slots in top wing to take cabane wire.
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daveh
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« Reply #24 on: March 21, 2017, 10:50:51 AM »

Dear Uncle Rich,

I'm glad it isn't just me who has to rethink things part way through a build, although Pete Fardell seem to be trying to join the club too (sorry Pete). Mind you, both of you have chosen prototypes that lend themselves to such things. As an RAF colleague of mine used to say, "It's a rich, full life if you don't weaken."

It's still a lovely build though (as is Pete's).

Dave
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