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Author Topic: RES-olution elektro 2m  (Read 437 times)
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bbdave
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« on: April 09, 2017, 02:25:05 AM »


 
I have just ordered the kit and a motor, I have built balsa gliders before but the carbon spars will be new for me as will electrification.  I've had a Radian, DLG and bungee launch so I will have plenty of questions etc. during this build.
I'm building for sport flying hazy summer days, bottle of beer and a pork pie by my side so I'm not fixated on super light competition construction. Any advice gladly welcomed.

From what I have seen the predominant adhesive is Cyno  I assume this is for wood to carbon but the wood to wood joints would surely be better with a wood glue?

Link to the kit
http://www.hyperflight.co.uk/products.asp?code=RESOLUTION-ELEKTRO&name=res-olution-elektro

I have cleared the bench ready for the kit.


Dave
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RES-olution elektro 2m
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Yak 52
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« Reply #1 on: April 09, 2017, 05:08:02 AM »

Hi Dave.

Nice to see an F3-RES kit being built over here.

CA is fine for balsa to balsa as long as joints a a good fit. Thin is good because you can wick it into the joints after assembly.

Jon
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bbdave
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« Reply #2 on: April 09, 2017, 06:21:43 AM »

OK I best invest in some Cyno and acetone  Roll Eyes

Dave
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Konrad
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« Reply #3 on: April 09, 2017, 11:03:49 AM »


...
From what I have seen the predominant adhesive is Cyno  I assume this is for wood to carbon but the wood to wood joints would surely be better with a wood glue?
...

Dave
So true. CA is a horrible adhesive to use with the construction of balsa structures, as it is hard and brittle! Now I do use thin CA for repairs of crash damage. As its capillary action can often repair the fractured wood and joints to "better than new" condition.

For the initial balsa and spruce construction I still Franklin Titebond the original formulation.

For carbon bonding I like slow cure epoxies, but have been known to use a lot of thick CA glues.

All the best,
Konrad
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OZPAF
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« Reply #4 on: April 09, 2017, 08:10:07 PM »

For a model like this although CA works for good joints as Jon has mentioned I prefer using a good quality carpenter's aliphatic such as the Titebond as Konrad has mentioned or even a good exterior grade PVA for balsa/ply joints for that extra bit of toughness.

For the composite joints - I would recommend a laminating epoxy (Wests or similar). I wouldn't use an epoxy that had a faster curing time than 30mins.

Check out Deluxe Materials https://www.deluxematerials.co.uk/en/3-rc-modelling in your neck of the woods.

John
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Bill G
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« Reply #5 on: April 10, 2017, 01:08:24 AM »


...
From what I have seen the predominant adhesive is Cyno  I assume this is for wood to carbon but the wood to wood joints would surely be better with a wood glue?
...

Dave
So true. CA is a horrible adhesive to use with the construction of balsa structures, as it is hard and brittle! Now I do use thin CA for repairs of crash damage. As its capillary action can often repair the fractured wood and joints to "better than new" condition.

For the initial balsa and spruce construction I still Franklin Titebond the original formulation.

For carbon bonding I like slow cure epoxies, but have been known to use a lot of thick CA glues.

All the best,
Konrad
I agree.  It is good for the wicking effect you described.  Guy at that other place said he never had a thin CA joint fail, when I got in this discussion there.  Sure.  Roll Eyes
Thin CA is only good where the fits are tab and slot and/or very tight.  They still can tear away easily, if not used in a locked slotted joint. Used for stringers, they pop apart, unless the stringer was initially a press fit into the notch, before gluing. Thicker CA is considerably stronger, but only works well when it can continue to seep.  I got off the activator thing, when I realized that without activator, thick CA will continue to seep and not fully cure for at least 15 minutes. Far better bond without activator.  Activator crystallizes the glue and stops it from seeping.  So far BSI gap filling is the only CA I've found that will give an epoxy like bond.
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bbdave
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« Reply #6 on: April 10, 2017, 01:37:43 AM »

OK so the ribs are threaded up the spare set up in position then a little medium CA on each joint will wick in, is that correct? I have some titebond 2 which I could use for wood to wood.

Dave
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Konrad
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« Reply #7 on: April 10, 2017, 08:32:30 AM »

OK so the ribs are threaded up the spare set up in position then a little medium CA on each joint will wick in, is that correct? I have some titebond 2 which I could use for wood to wood.

Dave
As I recall Titebond II is a water resistant glue. I didn't like it as it sands rather poorly.
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« Reply #8 on: April 10, 2017, 11:15:46 AM »

CA is the standard on these German F3-RES kits where the parts fit is usually very good. Thin CA will wick into preassambled joints, medium may not though. The carbon will need abrading usually too.
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Bill G
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« Reply #9 on: April 11, 2017, 10:14:21 PM »

OK so the ribs are threaded up the spare set up in position then a little medium CA on each joint will wick in, is that correct? I have some titebond 2 which I could use for wood to wood.

Dave
The point I was getting at is that even thicker CA will wick for some time and create a better bond, if not hit with activator.  If the fit is tight, I prefer thin CA, but only if tight.  One aspect I like about scratch building, is that my notches are intentionally undersized for a press dry fit, before gluing.  Thin CA works much better with a tight joint.
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bbdave
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« Reply #10 on: April 12, 2017, 02:12:29 PM »

OK the kit has arrived as has a motor Esc. I have purchased some things and medium CA. I will dig out my acetone. With a 4 day weekend ahead I see a little building happening  Grin
Attached files Thumbnail(s):
Re: RES-olution elektro 2m
Re: RES-olution elektro 2m
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OZPAF
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« Reply #11 on: April 12, 2017, 06:56:30 PM »

That will keep you entertained.
Happy building.
John
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bbdave
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« Reply #12 on: April 13, 2017, 10:46:04 AM »

OK I have my first question, when gluing up the root rib sandwich do i use medium CA glue up the pieces then push together or hold them together and apply thin CA?

Dave
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« Reply #13 on: April 13, 2017, 11:52:05 AM »

Either would work, but personally I find thin on pre-aligned parts easier to manage. Thin CA should wick at least half an inch into the joint.
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bbdave
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« Reply #14 on: April 14, 2017, 05:34:50 AM »

A productive morning so far really enjoying this laser cut kit lark. Educational aswell learning a little German translating the instructions.

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Re: RES-olution elektro 2m
Re: RES-olution elektro 2m
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bbdave
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« Reply #15 on: April 14, 2017, 09:53:33 AM »

A question about the spoilers, do I need them my radian was fine without and I won't be competing so are they needed?

Dave
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Konrad
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« Reply #16 on: April 14, 2017, 10:41:23 AM »

I like them (lift dump devices). They can help with the landing a lot. They also open up areas where you can fly (smaller clearings). As I'm not part of the school that believes light weight at all costs, I actually like the added weight of the spoilers. What I don't like is that if done incorrectly they can upset the airflow over the wing even when retracted.

So it comes down to your personal preference. As you are asking I assume you haven't flow with spoilers or a 6 servo wing. I'd say give them a try. They offer so much more than they cost.

All the best,
Konrad
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bbdave
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« Reply #17 on: April 14, 2017, 03:16:23 PM »

I like them (lift dump devices). They can help with the landing a lot. They also open up areas where you can fly (smaller clearings). As I'm not part of the school that believes light weight at all costs, I actually like the added weight of the spoilers. What I don't like is that if done incorrectly they can upset the airflow over the wing even when retracted.

So it comes down to your personal preference. As you are asking I assume you haven't flow with spoilers or a 6 servo wing. I'd say give them a try. They offer so much more than they cost.

All the best,
Konrad

I haven't flown with spoilers so as the bits are there is may go with it and seeing how short I can make landings is an appealing idea for trying smaller flying sites.

Dave
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« Reply #18 on: April 14, 2017, 08:18:53 PM »

I also would advise you to add the spoilers. They can be a model saver if you get caught in a strong thermal. They are worth the extra weight but should be installed as close fitting as possible. I would consider actually having very light plastic seals attached to the edges of the spoiler blade to close any gap when they are retracted.

They do need to retract firmly and open evenly Possibly the best way to achieve this is with small servos in the wing directly driving each blade. Only small servos need be used- 9gm max, and thus the weight difference over using one servo and a pull string system would be minimal.

John
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bbdave
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« Reply #19 on: April 15, 2017, 04:38:30 AM »

Wings underway now, I have put in the spoilers they can always come out if I struggle with fitting servos etc.

Attached files Thumbnail(s):
Re: RES-olution elektro 2m
Re: RES-olution elektro 2m
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