Logo
Builders' Plan Gallery  |  Hip Pocket Web Site  |  Contact Forum Admin  |  Contact Global Moderator
November 24, 2017, 07:47:57 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?

Login with email, password and session length
 
Home Help Search Login Register
Pages: 1 [2] 3   Go Down
Print
Author Topic: VMC Blue Spitfire Build  (Read 3743 times)
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
Crabby
Platinum Member
******

Kudos: 64
Offline Offline

United States United States

Posts: 1,519


I never met a modeler I didn't like



Ignore
« Reply #25 on: June 22, 2017, 10:24:50 AM »

Looking good! Did you get a canopy in the kit or are you gonna be vac-forming?
Logged

The Threadkiller!
abl
Silver Member
****

Kudos: 6
Offline Offline

United Kingdom United Kingdom

Posts: 148


Topic starter
Andy Blackburn



Ignore
« Reply #26 on: June 22, 2017, 05:26:03 PM »

The kit has the standard canopy for an early Spitfire V with an external armoured screen, but since this is a PR version it has a curved windscreen (no armour) and a large side bulge on each side of the sliding canopy. I might be able to use the fixed rear part of the kit canopy, but will have to mould a new canopy and windscreen; might have to mould the rear part as well, actually. Will also have to mould the side bulges separately and stick them to the main canopy with clear dope. I haven't got a vac-form machine so It'll have to be plunge-moulded, and I haven't done that for, um... well, a very long time. I forsee many, many attempts and several spare canopies...

Pretty sure the new canopy will count as a "significant" deviation under kit scale rules, but I think I've racked up so many penalty points already that I've given up worrying about it.  Smiley
Logged
abl
Silver Member
****

Kudos: 6
Offline Offline

United Kingdom United Kingdom

Posts: 148


Topic starter
Andy Blackburn



Ignore
« Reply #27 on: July 17, 2017, 09:03:24 AM »

I've had to get on with the non-standard spinner arrangement because I want to do a "bare structure" photo of the type usually seen in the better model magazines ("Aeromodeller", etc.) many years ago, so the spinner and prop have to fit.

Couldn't think of a reliable way of sanding the back plate to match the spinner, so tack glued it in place and did the sanding by eye.

Finding a way of assembling the rest of the components required a lot of considered and thorough consideration procrastination, in the end I thought that the most reliable way of producing something that was almost centered and had minimal wobble was probably to make a small jig (photo 2) from three 2" square bits of 1/16" sheet, 3/64" wire, and a few scrap bits of ply and masking tape to get it as centred as possible - this was done using a drill press to keep everything square; it should enable the prop and backplate to be assembled with minimal axial run-out.

The back plate is a push fit onto the jig, and the prop is just dropped on and fits in a 3mm hole on the backplate. Cut parts SP3 are subverted to hold the prop in the right position, although there's a small amount of play so it'll have to be glued in the jig. I think the best stuff to use for glueing is probably 5 minute epoxy and microballoons, used sparingly.

Also think I'm going to have to temporarily tape everything (spinner, prop, backplate) together and spin it on the shaft to find out where the prop should be glued on the back-plate to give minimal radial run-out.
Attached files Thumbnail(s):
Re: VMC Blue Spitfire Build
Re: VMC Blue Spitfire Build
Re: VMC Blue Spitfire Build
Re: VMC Blue Spitfire Build
Re: VMC Blue Spitfire Build
« Last Edit: July 17, 2017, 09:18:40 AM by abl » Logged
Jack Plane
Gold Member
*****

Kudos: 15
Offline Offline

United Kingdom United Kingdom

Posts: 733




Ignore
« Reply #28 on: July 18, 2017, 07:16:39 AM »

Excellent 'well-considered' job.  Grin

My own shenanigans with the spinner fell into the bodge-it-as-well-as-I-could category!
Logged
abl
Silver Member
****

Kudos: 6
Offline Offline

United Kingdom United Kingdom

Posts: 148


Topic starter
Andy Blackburn



Ignore
« Reply #29 on: July 19, 2017, 04:02:40 AM »

Thanks for the kind words, but whether it works in practice is another matter entirely!  Smiley

I managed to get all the various bits and pieces to a reasonable state yesterday evening, so thought I might as well have a go at a trial assembly so that I could try for some "Aeromodeller" type structural photos; it's all assembled with a combination of masking tape, sellotape, double-sided sellotape, tiny dots of balsa cement and a little bit of blu-tack in the spinner. In this state, it weighs 22 1/4 grams...  Cry

It's going to require about 300 tons of nose weight and the only crumb of comfort I have at this stage is that it's slightly nose-heavy (by about 5mm).

I haven't got a proper dark background for photography so had to use what was to hand, the pictures were taken with an iPhone 6 and if I'd used the "proper" camera they might have been a bit better, but they're not too bad, I think.

Next job is to carefully take everything apart again and make a plug (or plugs) for the canopy.
Attached files Thumbnail(s):
Re: VMC Blue Spitfire Build
Re: VMC Blue Spitfire Build
Logged
OZPAF
Titanium Member
*******

Kudos: 38
Offline Offline

Australia Australia

Posts: 3,577



Ignore
« Reply #30 on: July 19, 2017, 04:54:46 AM »

I think it looks pretty good. Your efforts in jigging the prop / spinner seem to have paid off.
The holey centre spar web looks neat.
Andrew did a nice job on the design of this model.

John
Logged
malc
Silver Member
****

Kudos: 12
Offline Offline

United Kingdom United Kingdom

Posts: 193



Ignore
« Reply #31 on: July 19, 2017, 06:32:48 AM »

Thats looks really nicely finished, esp the nose infill and the shape of the exhausts, the weight seems reasonable. How are you going to do the upper wing fillets?

Malc.
Logged
abl
Silver Member
****

Kudos: 6
Offline Offline

United Kingdom United Kingdom

Posts: 148


Topic starter
Andy Blackburn



Ignore
« Reply #32 on: July 19, 2017, 04:54:56 PM »

Thanks for the kind remarks.  Smiley

...

The holey centre spar web looks neat.
...


I enlarged them slightly with a Permagrit file.

Um... perhaps I shouldn't have admitted that because I suspect Kit Scale judges do occasionally look in to see what's going on, but I've racked up a fair number of penalty points already so a few more won't make much difference...  Smiley

...

Andrew did a nice job on the design of this model.


He did indeed.

Thats looks really nicely finished, esp the nose infill and the shape of the exhausts, the weight seems reasonable. How are you going to do the upper wing fillets?

Malc.

I worry about the weight because Jon's Pinko PR Spitfire had lighter components and still required a significant amount of nose weight; on the other hand, I suppose that my tissue is probably a bit lighter than the pink stuff that Jon used. I'm going to do the upper wing fillets exactly as it says on the plan - paper pattern, covered with tissue, curved to fit and stuck in place - looks as though it ought to work OK.

Andy
Logged
abl
Silver Member
****

Kudos: 6
Offline Offline

United Kingdom United Kingdom

Posts: 148


Topic starter
Andy Blackburn



Ignore
« Reply #33 on: September 08, 2017, 08:32:20 AM »

Time is rolling on and I really should try and get this finished, and if I'm honest I've been putting off the next bit (the canopy). I'm still planning to plunge-mould it, so we'll see how that goes - it'll be a lot easier if I can persuade one of my fellow aeroplane nuts to assist, the last time I hand-moulded a canopy was in front of a gas fire (probably 30+ years ago) and from memory it usually requires about three hands to do reliably. Might be easier with a heat gun, though.

The canopy side view came from a combination of "Spitfire in Action", the photo further up this thread and the dim memory of seeing the Old Warden PR.XI, also quite a long time ago. As it is now it's about ready for sanding, then it can be split off and faced with 1/8" sheet and a dowel stuck in the bottom.

Still need to make a mould for the side blisters, of course...
Attached files Thumbnail(s):
Re: VMC Blue Spitfire Build
Re: VMC Blue Spitfire Build
Re: VMC Blue Spitfire Build
Logged
MKelly
Gold Member
*****

Kudos: 29
Offline Offline

United States United States

Posts: 466




Ignore
« Reply #34 on: September 08, 2017, 09:04:45 AM »

Great idea with the masking tape- I'm going to be using that frequently.
Logged
abl
Silver Member
****

Kudos: 6
Offline Offline

United Kingdom United Kingdom

Posts: 148


Topic starter
Andy Blackburn



Ignore
« Reply #35 on: September 14, 2017, 12:33:25 PM »

Great idea with the masking tape- I'm going to be using that frequently.


Thanks - I only do it because I'm too much of a klutz to get away without it.

In other news, I wish to report a degree of success with the plunge-moulding - see pictures.

The canopy mould turned out OK, it's just bare balsa finished with very fine wet & dry - about 600 or 800 - so that the surface acquires a mild polish, the former plate was made from liteply. I made a separate mould and former for the side blisters, the plan is that they'll be attached afterwards with clear dope. I'm painfully aware that this will be a one-shot operation. But that's a problem for another day, thankfully.

One of my clubmates came over and we had a few goes at plunge-moulding, with varying degrees of success; I thought a heat gun (for covering with plastic film) might work, but it just wasn't hot enough. Neither was the gas fire. However, turning the electric oven grill up to full worked really well; unfortunately, SWMBO came home part-way through the process as we were both crouched in front of the cooker, stopped at the kitchen door, opened and shut her mouth a few times and eventually managed to say "WHAT are you doing?"...

We had several goes at moulding canopies and side blisters from 10 thou acetate sheet, and managed to get 1 1/2 acceptable canopies and two good side blisters, so I'm counting that as a win.

On with the covering, then...
Attached files Thumbnail(s):
Re: VMC Blue Spitfire Build
Re: VMC Blue Spitfire Build
Re: VMC Blue Spitfire Build
Re: VMC Blue Spitfire Build
Re: VMC Blue Spitfire Build
Logged
Jack Plane
Gold Member
*****

Kudos: 15
Offline Offline

United Kingdom United Kingdom

Posts: 733




Ignore
« Reply #36 on: September 14, 2017, 01:37:14 PM »

Top job Blackburn!

...AND best SWMBO story I've heard in absolute ages!   Grin
Logged
abl
Silver Member
****

Kudos: 6
Offline Offline

United Kingdom United Kingdom

Posts: 148


Topic starter
Andy Blackburn



Ignore
« Reply #37 on: September 18, 2017, 01:36:49 PM »

I've focused on the covering over the past few days and it's not looking too bad...

I've not wet-covered a whole fuselage in Jap tissue for, well, for a very long time, so a quick revision of my extremely dog-eared copy of "Flying Scale Models of WWII" was in order. I wanted to use three pieces of tissue for the fuselage because I didn't want a tissue overlap down the middle of the cowl, and it all worked as advertised - almost. There is a very small patch where I accidentally cut through two layers of tissue, but I don't think it's too much of an eyesore. In the end, the fuselage took less than an hour and a half to cover. There were some minor imperfections so I used 50/50 dope to try and shrink some of them out.

The tissue for the tail surfaces was pre-steamed on a balsa frame before covering with the Approved Glue Stick, and I tried to make really certain that the tissue grain went straight down the centre of the piece on both sides. Then it was briefly steamed again and (when dry) doped with 50/50 non-shrinking dope, pinning down at each stage. So far (after 3 or 4 days), it's stayed straight.

The wings were covered with the glue stick and then each panel steam-shrunk and pinned down, then each panel was doped with 50/50 non-shrinking dope and pinned down again. So far, it's also been quite stable, it's only lost a tiny bit of the washout on the port wing, so I can probably steam that back.
Attached files Thumbnail(s):
Re: VMC Blue Spitfire Build
Re: VMC Blue Spitfire Build
Re: VMC Blue Spitfire Build
Re: VMC Blue Spitfire Build
Re: VMC Blue Spitfire Build
Re: VMC Blue Spitfire Build
Logged
Jack Plane
Gold Member
*****

Kudos: 15
Offline Offline

United Kingdom United Kingdom

Posts: 733




Ignore
« Reply #38 on: September 18, 2017, 01:57:57 PM »

Looking very crisp Andy!

Just a couple of things though...

1.  If you're going to have to take a hit on the laminated tailplane, why not go the whole hog and do similar on the fin?
2.  The wing centre-section seems to have ground a pair of angled riblets - to match the fuselage?

Standing by in-coming!  Grin
Logged
Andrew Darby
Platinum Member
******

Kudos: 40
Offline Offline

United Kingdom United Kingdom

Posts: 1,871




Ignore
« Reply #39 on: September 18, 2017, 02:06:17 PM »

Nice Job, but as Jon says that laminated tailplane is pretty obvious!  I don't think that the plea of over sanding will really wash with the judges...  John Churchill got done over by simply sanding the surfaces too thin a few years back.  These were punished in the marking under "assorted cheats"  Huh

Yes, what are those extra bits in the wings?

Andrew
Logged

Hogwash I tell thee!
ZK-AUD
Gold Member
*****

Kudos: 22
Online Online

New Zealand New Zealand

Posts: 773



Ignore
« Reply #40 on: September 18, 2017, 03:17:58 PM »

Great covering job!  RC56 would stick that wing to the fuselage very nicely indeed (see comments in CT4 thread)
Logged
abl
Silver Member
****

Kudos: 6
Offline Offline

United Kingdom United Kingdom

Posts: 148


Topic starter
Andy Blackburn



Ignore
« Reply #41 on: September 18, 2017, 03:29:47 PM »

1.  If you're going to have to take a hit on the laminated tailplane, why not go the whole hog and do similar on the fin?


Well, I made the fin first, then had the c*ck-up with the stabiliser (over which we should draw a discreet veil) and having gone through the draw/print/cut-out/glue process with the fin, I felt that it was easier to make the laminated outlines than make the outlines from separate pieces.

2.  The wing centre-section seems to have ground a pair of angled riblets - to match the fuselage?

Yes, what are those extra bits in the wings?

Um, well, the thing is that if they're not there then the covering will sag between R1 and R2, so there'll be an unsightly gap between the fuselage and wing because I'm (legally, mind you) in-filling with 1/16" sheet rather than using paper patterns. So I added a couple of riblets to support the covering. I was going to claim that it couldn't really be classified as a "significant" deviation because once it's assembled you have to look hard to see it. And if the tissue was more opaque, you might not see it at all...  Smiley

I don't think that the plea of over sanding will really wash with the judges...  John Churchill got done over by simply sanding the surfaces too thin a few years back.  These were punished in the marking under "assorted cheats"  Huh

Oh, that's harsh! Very harsh!

And in any case, strictly speaking it was incompetence rather than over-sanding; the wood was a bit heavy and what I probably should have done was - before making the stabiliser - make some new parts out of much lighter wood.

...That's not going to work either, is it?...  Smiley

But, to be honest, the chance of me winning anything is remote because a) I can't resist tinkering with and/or changing designs and b) I don't build anything that's too big to circle in my local sports hall. So, I'm just building things to my own satisfaction and if one of them happens to get on a kit scale podium then that's great, but I'm just doing it for the fun of it, really.

So I'll take the penalties on the chin.  Smiley
Logged
Jack Plane
Gold Member
*****

Kudos: 15
Offline Offline

United Kingdom United Kingdom

Posts: 733




Ignore
« Reply #42 on: September 18, 2017, 05:11:53 PM »

Good man!  Cheesy
Logged
abl
Silver Member
****

Kudos: 6
Offline Offline

United Kingdom United Kingdom

Posts: 148


Topic starter
Andy Blackburn



Ignore
« Reply #43 on: September 26, 2017, 10:59:54 AM »

Great covering job!  RC56 would stick that wing to the fuselage very nicely indeed (see comments in CT4 thread)

Thanks.  Smiley  Found the CT4 thread eventually (http://www.hippocketaeronautics.com/hpa_forum/index.php?topic=22322.0) - nice model.

Back to the plot, and I'm finding that the last detail bits always seem to take more time than they used to; I assume it's because I'm now taking more care over it.

I've been experimenting with representing the rudder/elevator rib tapes with strips of tissue, but to be honest I don't think it's worth the bother; some of them aren't quite straight and they don't show up that well because the tissue is so translucent. I think it would work much better if it had a sprayed finish or more opaque tissue (e.g. Peck tissue) but I'd need to work out some way of semi-automating the process because they were extremely fiddly to apply.

All the detail parts are now covered and (mostly) painted, planning on quick black wash on the wheels and undercarriage to bring out the detail a bit and to hide a couple of minor blunders (move along, nothing to see). Actually, I reckon that about 10% of my building time is dedicated to fixing errors...

Speaking of which, I managed to use the wrong sandpaper on the exhaust stubs (brain in neutral) so I've had to sand most of the paint off to get rid of the worst of the scratches. I might get away with another colour coat without having to take it back to the wood and re-seal.

The wing has had u/c wells (black Jap tissue, matt side facing outwards) and aileron/flap lines added. I'm in two minds about adding a few panel lines, the issue is that I don't want it to look like a Christmas Tree where you can't see the shape of the thing because you're too busy looking at the details.

There are a few more bits to do (wing fairings, etc) and then it'll be out with the airbrush and a lengthy justification of the odd roundel colours that I'm going to use.  Smiley
Attached files Thumbnail(s):
Re: VMC Blue Spitfire Build
Re: VMC Blue Spitfire Build
Re: VMC Blue Spitfire Build
Re: VMC Blue Spitfire Build
Logged
abl
Silver Member
****

Kudos: 6
Offline Offline

United Kingdom United Kingdom

Posts: 148


Topic starter
Andy Blackburn



Ignore
« Reply #44 on: October 02, 2017, 06:10:24 AM »

Executive summary: the markings are done, it could have gone better but it was a valuable learning experience.

The colours were a bit of a problem because (looking at the reference photo) the blue of the roundel is considerably lighter than the base airframe colour, the underwing roundel is just visible and shows the contrast better than the fuselage. It's difficult to guess from that picture whether the red roundel colour has been lightened in the same way as the blue.

Also, we don't really know what the base airframe colour is; there's some evidence that it's not PRU blue because that was found to be too bright for the Mediterranean theatre so a local colour was mixed from (mainly) ICI Bosun Blue and black pigment, ending up "fractionally darker than FS 35109". On the other hand, some plastic model decal sheets for this aircraft render the colour as a dark royal blue which looks - to my eyes, anyway - a bit too dark.

However, back in the real world the base colour of the model is in fact dark blue (modern) Japanese tissue, and it hasn't turned out to be as dark as expected (depending on the light). So I've had to just guess what the colours should be...

For masking, I used some transparent matt masking film that I've had for some years (almost certainly less than 20 years) because it was available and easy to draw on. Sharp eyed readers will immediately spot the incipient c*ck-up in picture #2 (BP416 ??); needless to say, I didn't notice this till later.

Spraying was done with Tamiya acrylics thinned with Tamiya thinner which might not have been the right stuff to use because it contains a retarder/flow aid and it took ages to dry - even with lots of light misted coats, and it may have been over-thinned because it tended to make the tissue wrinkle whilst it was drying (picture #3). Am very open to suggestions of what might work better.

And perhaps using 20 year-old masking film wasn't the best idea; picture #4 shows a rectangular residue of adhesive on the bottom wing surface that the film has left behind. I'm going to have to correct this somehow, using alcohol is probably not a good idea because it'll dissolve the paint. Maybe try and pick it off carefully using de-stickified adhesive tape?

Picture #5 shows the finished fuselage markings; the registration letters are about as small as I can manage (~8mm tall) and although they're not perfect, they don't look too bad from a distance. I think I'm going to have to come up with some other way of generating small letters - not sure it would have worked on a printer because the colour has a reasonably large white component so probably wouldn't have rendered well on transparent decal film. Maybe doped tissue painted the right colour, stuck in place? And the roundel blue has unfortunately turned out a little darker than expected.

Photo #6 shows the final result; not too bad as long as it's not examined too closely...
Attached files Thumbnail(s):
Re: VMC Blue Spitfire Build
Re: VMC Blue Spitfire Build
Re: VMC Blue Spitfire Build
Re: VMC Blue Spitfire Build
Re: VMC Blue Spitfire Build
Re: VMC Blue Spitfire Build
Logged
Rudder flutter
Bronze Member
***

Kudos: 6
Offline Offline

United Kingdom United Kingdom

Posts: 41



Ignore
« Reply #45 on: October 02, 2017, 06:37:08 AM »

Executive summary: the markings are done, it could have gone better but it was a valuable learning experience.

Spraying was done with Tamiya acrylics thinned with Tamiya thinner which might not have been the right stuff to use because it contains a retarder/flow aid and it took ages to dry - even with lots of light misted coats, and it may have been over-thinned because it tended to make the tissue wrinkle whilst it was drying (picture #3). Am very open to suggestions of what might work better.




I think this looks really neat Andy!
I now always use Tamiya acrylics with the X-20A Tamiya thinner as you have. I don't have any problem with it. I think the slow drying and slackness is probably the paint penetrating the doped surface. Another thinned coat of dope would probably stop much of the slackness and speed up the drying, although with a slight weight gain. I normally apply 3 50/50 thinned coats to fuselage and 2 coats to wings/tails. I thin the paints 50/50 with Tamiya thinner, measured using disposable 'eBay' droppers, although I think 60/40 paint/thinners would probably work. I work slowly building up thin non-wet layers. Try Yellow frog tape for masking, always seems to work well for me.
Logged
Jack Plane
Gold Member
*****

Kudos: 15
Offline Offline

United Kingdom United Kingdom

Posts: 733




Ignore
« Reply #46 on: October 02, 2017, 03:02:07 PM »

Looks great Andy, and nothing too wrong with the close difference between the overall blue and roundel blue.

I do enjoy these rarer colour schemes on otherwise familiar subjects.
Logged
MKelly
Gold Member
*****

Kudos: 29
Offline Offline

United States United States

Posts: 466




Ignore
« Reply #47 on: October 02, 2017, 03:34:23 PM »

ABL,

Try thinning your Tamiya acrylics with Tamiya Lacquer Thinner rather than the X-20A acrylic thinner.  When building my West Wings Tempest, I initially sprayed the model with Tamiya paints thinned with the alcohol-based acrylic thinner, and had the same sort of "relaxing" of the tissue you've described.  When I repaired the model after tearing off a wing I used lacquer thinner with the acrylics and found it didn't make the tissue sag and it also adhered better to the doped tissue.  Here's a link to Tamiya's thinning webpage where they mention both types of thinner:  https://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/thinning-paints-606#.WdKSjLpFw-U.  FWIW, I've been using generic lacquer thinner from Home Depot with the Tamiya acrylic paints and got the same good results as the more expensive Tamiya lacquer thinner.  I'll second Rudder's endorsement of the yellow Frog tape - I tried it and it works very well, especially when masking over painted surfaces.

Your Spitfire is looking very nice!

Hope this helps,

Mike
Logged
abl
Silver Member
****

Kudos: 6
Offline Offline

United Kingdom United Kingdom

Posts: 148


Topic starter
Andy Blackburn



Ignore
« Reply #48 on: October 03, 2017, 04:56:47 AM »

Gents, thanks for the kind words and valued advice.


I think the slow drying and slackness is probably the paint penetrating the doped surface. Another thinned coat of dope would probably stop much of the slackness and speed up the drying, although with a slight weight gain. I normally apply 3 50/50 thinned coats to fuselage and 2 coats to wings/tails.

Ah! Yes, well - one coat of 50/50 non-shrinking dope is all that this has had. Perhaps I could stretch to a second coat - apart from anything else, it might also stop me having to alter the trim when the humidity changes.


I thin the paints 50/50 with Tamiya thinner, measured using disposable 'eBay' droppers, although I think 60/40 paint/thinners would probably work. I work slowly building up thin non-wet layers. Try Yellow frog tape for masking, always seems to work well for me.

This was thinned 60/40 paint/thinners. I think the problem might be the retardant that they put in to (I assume) make brush painting more practical, because otherwise the stuff tends to dry so quickly that it picks up brush marks whilst you're still applying the first coat.


Try thinning your Tamiya acrylics with Tamiya Lacquer Thinner rather than the X-20A acrylic thinner.
...

I'll second Rudder's endorsement of the yellow Frog tape - I tried it and it works very well, especially when masking over painted surfaces.

I've heard of people using lacquer thinner for acrylics, not sure we can get that exact formulation over here, I'm not 100% certain but I think this is substantially the same as cellulose thinners (mainly acetone)? I'll try that next time...

And I'm chucking away the rest of that transparent masking film in favour of Frog tape.

(BTW - https://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/thinning-paints-606#.WdNRFGhieUl is a very useful web page - thanks)

Anyway, back to the plot, I had a small success with the spinner...

The spinner backplate was opened out a bit so that it wouldn't interfere with the nose button and fitted in the previously-described jig, then the (balanced) prop was fitted with epoxy and micro-balloons. Tried very hard to use the same amount each side, but it'll probably need a bit a re-balancing.

Then the prop-shaft was fitted (although in the heat of the moment, I forgot to make an S-hook) and luckily (although I hadn't really expected this to work) the back plate appears to have no perceptible wobble, and only a small amount of run-out. I found that I had to excavate a fair bit from the nose of the spinner to allow the free-wheel to work, but I've managed to find a position for the spinner where it runs just-about true.  Smiley

Attached files Thumbnail(s):
Re: VMC Blue Spitfire Build
Re: VMC Blue Spitfire Build
Re: VMC Blue Spitfire Build
Re: VMC Blue Spitfire Build
« Last Edit: October 03, 2017, 05:28:43 AM by abl » Logged
Pete Fardell
Titanium Member
*******

Kudos: 53
Online Online

United Kingdom United Kingdom

Posts: 3,744




Ignore
« Reply #49 on: October 03, 2017, 05:16:33 AM »

A very tidy prop assembly! Something to aspire to as my spinners never really run true. And I doubt yours will need much rebalancing will it, with the added gubbins all being so near the centre?
Logged
Pages: 1 [2] 3   Go Up
Print
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!