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Author Topic: Miller "Little Gem" build for FAC Goodyear mass launch  (Read 7776 times)
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MKelly
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« Reply #50 on: June 29, 2017, 09:39:02 PM »

Thanks! Yes, the midget racers are quite tiny.  What always strikes me is seeing how huge the pilot's head appears, just about filling the canopy.  Quite a contrast to the warbirds.

Cheers,

Mike
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MKelly
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« Reply #51 on: July 06, 2017, 03:21:32 PM »

Progress is slow with visitors for the holiday.  Work continues on the tissue templates.  Originally, I was going to print the fuselage sides as a single image, with a seam between the left and right sides at the top.  The more I thought about this the less I liked it, so I decided to split the covering at the line between the black lower half and the white upper half.  I wrapped some cheap gift wrap tissue over the turtledeck and upper cowl, marked the edges by dragging a soft pencil over the structure, then scanned the resulting patterns to make layouts for the turtledeck and cowl graphics. 

Pictures show test prints (on regular paper) of the graphics - I did the same blue alignment lines at each rib/LE/TE point as I did for the Waco graphics.  Makes it much easier to get the tissue about where you want it when covering.

Graphics are all done in Powerpoint, built up over scanned plan images.

Mike
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MKelly
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« Reply #52 on: July 09, 2017, 11:49:16 PM »

Got started on covering today.  Decided to begin with the wheel pants, since that was the worst part of covering the last model I built (Waco SRE).  Printed rectangles of black on Esaki, then chalked the line down the center of the pants white.  The photos show how much the chalk brings out the white - compare the stripe to the border around the rectangles. 

Pants were covered wet.  I applied glue stick to the pants, tacked the tissue down and got it straight, stretched it around the top and bottom, trimmed it, then used thinned white glue to seal the edges down.

Much easier than the Waco landing gear, and it looks pretty decent.

Mike
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OZPAF
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« Reply #53 on: July 10, 2017, 09:28:43 PM »

Are they wet covered Mike? They are very smooth.

John
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MKelly
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« Reply #54 on: July 10, 2017, 11:18:35 PM »

John, thanks - they are indeed wet covered. 

Chalked some more tissue today and got the underside, upper cowl and turtledeck covered.  These pics really show how much the white chalk changes the appearance of the tissue.

I decided to cover the cheeks separately, then attach them to the covered fuselage.  The more I handled the fuselage the more concerned I got over the likelihood of breaking something while attempting to stretch tissue over the cheeks.  Given that the colors intersect at the joint between the cheeks and fuselage I think it will look OK if the cheeks are attached after covering.

Mike
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« Reply #55 on: July 11, 2017, 03:20:02 AM »

The chalking has made all the difference Mike - very impressive. Those details on the fuse covering look spot on.

John
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MKelly
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« Reply #56 on: July 14, 2017, 11:22:38 PM »

One step back, two steps forward...

After covering the turtledeck I was mocking up the black side tissue and noticed that the race number didn't align with the turtledeck text like photos of the actual aircraft.  After much peering and muttering I determined the text was too large, extending too far back towards the tail.  While looking at that, I noticed that on the right side of the plane the city name was painted in all caps (unlike the left side). Thought about leaving it, but I knew it would bug me so I wet the glued edges of the tissue and pulled it off. 

Spent most of my modeling time on Thursday revising the graphics.  The scanned photo graphics I'd used previously weren't any good for the right side, and didn't look very good when scaled to the correct length, so I hunted through the font packs and played with the text to re-create the hand-painted lettering as best as I could, printed a couple of test shots to check the look, then printed up some new tissue for the turtledeck.

In between looking at fonts I took a break, covered the glare shield with black tissue and edited up a photo of the instrument panel.  The panel photo is from "Ole Tiger" as raced in '68, but I bet nobody will complain...

Today I got the revised tissue on the turtledeck, then covered the wings.  Tonight I'll spray them and pin them down to shrink overnight.

Mike
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BG
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« Reply #57 on: July 15, 2017, 09:23:30 AM »

Looks great Mike.
What printer are you using? how does the ink standup to water and alcohol?

thx
Bernard
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« Reply #58 on: July 15, 2017, 02:42:29 PM »

Bernard, thanks!  The tissue is printed using an Epson 7610 printer with dura-brite inks.  The ink seems to hold up well to water, white glue and dope - I don't use alcohol for covering.  I've seen others state that the ink holds up with alcohol during glue-stick covering and shrinking, but I have not yet tried that method.

The colors inks proved very tough when I used them on my Waco SRE.  On this one I've found the black will smudge a little if you rub it hard when wetted - I've just adjusted my technique to use a little less white glue/water when tacking tissue down and to resist "adjusting" the tissue via direct contact when shrinking with water.

Hope this helps...

Mike
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MKelly
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« Reply #59 on: July 17, 2017, 09:36:58 PM »

Covering continues.  Stab and fin are covered.  For the stab I put the printed and chalked tissue on a frame and shrank it again.  I used Elmer's glue stick to tack the stab to the tissue while still on the frame, then cut it out, trimmed to a slight overlap, sealed the edges with white glue/water mix and repeated the process for the other side. 

I cut a couple lengths of scrap wood to make a washout jig for shrinking the wing tissue - pinned them over the plan with 1/8" shims under the outer TE on each side, then wet the wings and used scrap balsa and pins to hold them down while drying.  I'll use the same jig when I dope them.

I got the black tissue on the fuselage sides (applied dry), then covered the carb scoop and canoe area with a single dampened piece of tissue.  That was one of the hardest bits of covering I've done, and there is a little hazing on the black tissue where it was really stretched and rubbed to get it glued around the scoop and up the canoe.  If it still looks smooth after I've shrunk the fuselage I'll touch it up with black pastel prior to doping, otherwise I guess I'll have to pull some of it off and re-apply in multiple pieces.

Mike
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MKelly
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« Reply #60 on: July 18, 2017, 10:49:30 PM »

Covered the cheeks and rigged the landing gear today.  The cheeks were a real challenge - after several failed attempts at stretching the tissue around I gave up and covered each with three strips lengthwise.  Thanks to the black color the seams are not too obvious so I'm going to go with it.

The LG strut fairings will get covered after installation so I can wrap the tissue over the LG wire and hide it.

I also chalked over the sides of the canoe with black chalk - this did a good job of hiding the fading from stretching the printed tissue.
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« Reply #61 on: July 19, 2017, 03:48:25 AM »

That's pretty good in my books Mike. That colour scheme is eye catching and all the printed logos really set it off.
I'd be proud to get any where close to this level.

John
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« Reply #62 on: July 19, 2017, 09:48:01 PM »

Mike...amazing skill with the tissue application, not discounting the great craftsmanship on the build and instrument panel.  Outstanding!
Tom
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« Reply #63 on: July 20, 2017, 06:45:03 AM »

That looks great. Really nice printed tissue.

Are you going to make the canopy from a flat sheet?
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« Reply #64 on: July 20, 2017, 12:08:11 PM »

John, Tom, John,  thanks! 

Had to fit the wings and cheeks today to align tissue for the noseblock, and couldn't resist mocking it up and taking a few pics.  John W, the canopy will be cut flat with, with the frame overlayed with bond paper covered with tissue to match the rest of the finish - pics of template attached.

It's looking good, but it's no lightweight - 16.2g as pictured.  Still has to get doped, add the pilot, canopy, tailwheel and prop and final balance - I'll be lucky to get away under 20g.  Balance at the moment without the prop is just about right - here's hoping the prop and rubber won't shift it dramatically one way or the other.

Cheers,

Mike
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« Reply #65 on: July 20, 2017, 12:37:11 PM »

Covered the cheeks and rigged the landing gear today.  The cheeks were a real challenge - after several failed attempts at stretching the tissue around I gave up and covered each with three strips lengthwise.  Thanks to the black color the seams are not too obvious so I'm going to go with it.

The LG strut fairings will get covered after installation so I can wrap the tissue over the LG wire and hide it.

I also chalked over the sides of the canoe with black chalk - this did a good job of hiding the fading from stretching the printed tissue.
Mike your work is exquisite!
WHAT SEAMS? Shocked They look fantastic!

I'm still trying to learn how to cover  with a minimum of wrinkles and tears. But I'd like to ask what is this "chalk"? Are these pastels added to the back of the tissue to bring out the color. Or is it used to allow the tissue to slide around a bit, aiding in the covering of compound surfaces?

Is there a detailed "How To" on Hip or anywhere else that goes into the covering process in detail?

Thanks,
Konrad

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MKelly
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« Reply #66 on: July 20, 2017, 12:59:27 PM »

Thanks Konrad - the camera hides many warts... 

Chalking modifies the color and/or opacity of tissue.  This is the second model I've tried it on - for this one I'm primarily trying to get a bright, opaque white to set off the black markings.

Scot Dobberfuhl did a great tutorial - it's posted on the Easy-Built site at http://www.easybuiltmodels.com/chalk.htm (along with several other good tutorials).  I'm using a set of Sargent artist's pastels - picked it up this spring at Hobby Lobby for about $15 with their usual e-mail discount coupon.  I suspect it will last through my lifetime...

Cheers,

Mike

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Konrad
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« Reply #67 on: July 20, 2017, 02:28:58 PM »

Thanks Konrad - the camera hides many warts... 
...

Cheers,

Mike


Mike, you're too modest. I know from my posting that the camera brings out the warts. This is not only because of the lighting but also that the image on the screen is often 3 to 4 times larger that the real life 3 diminutional subject.

Thanks I'll look into that link, in detail

All the best,
Konrad
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« Reply #68 on: July 20, 2017, 10:12:33 PM »

Loved the mockup!!!! Great looking model!
Tom
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« Reply #69 on: July 21, 2017, 04:18:46 AM »

 Well if you built it and it needs to be 20g then so be it - must be a heavy design!  Just a  different strategy - hard for the Lacys and Fikes to compete when they're shredded on the floor!  Great job mate - love your woodwork.

Cheers, Mike
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MKelly
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« Reply #70 on: July 21, 2017, 01:38:28 PM »

Thanks Mike.  The thing that strikes me is how heavy this would have been had I used the 12-lb/cuft balsa the kit supplied for the formers, ribs, spats and cheeks. 

The model has a fair amount of wing area (just over 51 square inches), so it can afford to be a bit heavier than many peanuts.  The guidelines in Bill McCombs' book suggest max structural weight (RTF without motor) should be less than 17g.  In the end, it will be what it is and I'll just have to see what performance I can coax out of it.

Cheers,

Mike
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« Reply #71 on: July 21, 2017, 07:56:44 PM »

I doubt that you will have too many problems Mike. it's still going to be close to the magic 0.5gms/sq inch rule. (love the mixed units).

It is truly outstanding to my eyes.

John
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« Reply #72 on: July 26, 2017, 07:52:36 PM »

This one's for those who like watching dope dry...
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« Reply #73 on: July 26, 2017, 11:10:23 PM »

Great to witness the process. I have a lot of scrap balsa left from lazer kits and now I know why I saved all that wood. Think this racer ought to go far.

Very nice Mike. Seriously nice.   
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« Reply #74 on: July 27, 2017, 07:51:05 PM »

What is the reason for the blue tape Mike?

John
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