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Author Topic: Aerographics Hunter - Lost my F3!  (Read 247 times)
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playtime222
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« on: July 09, 2017, 08:02:53 PM »

Could someone scan their F3 and post it on here, please?

I've lost both of mine. They were taped together while I was widening the battery box and adjusting all the slots and recesses. Now I come to actually glue the fuselage together and it's disappeared. Sigh.

Thanks in advance to anyone who can help.
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Konrad
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« Reply #1 on: July 09, 2017, 10:10:34 PM »

Here you go. It is the same basic shape as F4 if that helps.
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Cut it twice and it's still too short!
playtime222
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« Reply #2 on: July 10, 2017, 05:21:46 AM »

I can work with that.

Thanks for the quick reply!

I was expecting to have to shelve this one again.
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playtime222
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« Reply #3 on: July 20, 2017, 07:49:34 PM »

Took a bit of fettling  Grin

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Konrad
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« Reply #4 on: July 20, 2017, 08:09:42 PM »

Looks good! How much distortion? Even printed parts often require me to fit them.
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Cut it twice and it's still too short!
playtime222
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« Reply #5 on: Today at 04:50:23 PM »

I've built the Lightening and the West Wings Do335 so this one I feel is a simpler shape but, frankly, this one is a challenge.

Plenty of parts have corrections already noted in the instructions - e.g. wing ribs R2 and R6 suddenly stop at the front of the trailing edge piece rather than going full length. I had already cut mine out so I have no idea if there is space to correct the original printed pieces.

For me, the F3 I ended up creating had the slot for E about 1.5mm too low, so I cut another out and marked where the E slot and stringer notches are but did not filed them out. The slots for the side keel F at the back looks straight enough.

Also, for F3 when you cut it out, DONT cut off the top part - cut out the space for MOST of the battery box cos that will be awkward later and BS but leave a tab at the top so that it sits square on the plan.

F14 is a disaster - don't file out the slots for the keels until you can test fit it on the keels B and D - you file almost all of it as the keels are as wide as F13 and the marked notch is too deep anyway - I glue some scrap balsa back on and started again.

The perfectionist in me wants to remake every former from F7 to F13 just to make the inner hole the same size as the smaller motor and corresponding jet pipe. I'm just going to cut out some rings to mount all that.

My battery was about 5mm wider than the space the original markings on F2-F4 give you but that's easy to change with the original parts.

I cannot figure out what to do with the trailing edge of the tailplane when the leading edge is raised and given dihedral as per the plan. All my test fitting says leaving the trailing edge flat on the plan will give a very weird wash out which I'm sure is not the intention.

One trick I've used is all of the fragile pieces where most of them are filed away - especially F9 - glue some scrap 1/16 square for strength then gently sand most of it off after the slot filing is completed. Ask me how I know these parts are fragile Cheesy My Dad used to say for tricky fragile parts like that to banana oil (no-shrinking dope) some tissue paper onto them for extra strength.

Not looking forward to fitting the paper ducting Cheesy

Not looking forward to fitting R1.

Not looking forward to finding the R1s dont match the R2s and how the hell you give the wing dihedral (10mm at R6) when R1 and R2 are built flat I have no idea - sand a wedge for it?

Last but not least - noob mistake Cheesy

When sanding the front base block of the fin, tape over the fin leading edge or you will sand a depression into it. Had to build that up again with some scrap. Then sanded a depressing above that. Sigh. 2 corrections Cheesy

Don't let me put you off. I fret a lot over this stuff before I glue anything. The main thing I've learnt is not to notch or file out slots UNTIL I test fit them on the plan. The other 2 kits mentioned were better in that respect.

Phew. Rant over Cheesy

Hope that will be of some use.
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