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Author Topic: What Did You Do Airplane Wise Today?  (Read 65238 times)
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spliffsecond
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« Reply #650 on: June 10, 2018, 03:10:05 AM »

That last picture reminds me the pictures of wounded soldiers in WWI,
with half there face blown off.
I hope you get her togheter again, she is to pretty to just sit on a shelf.

Grtz free
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Pete Fardell
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« Reply #651 on: June 10, 2018, 08:20:59 AM »

I got this drill bit set a couple of weeks ago, from Boyes, which is chain of cheap we-sell-everything shops we get in these parts. There are 20 drill bits, ranging from 0.3 to 1.6mm diameter. The only thing is, because they are so small, the diameters are written beside each slot in the case rather than on each drill. So it is most important to replace each one back in its correct place every time you use it.

The slide-open lid was very stiff, but after a lot of wrenching it suddenly came free, helpfully sending drill bits flying to every corner of my very messy workroom. So far I have recovered 16 of the twenty, which is more than I expected.
(As to getting them all back in their correct slots: forget it.)
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dputt7
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« Reply #652 on: June 10, 2018, 08:34:46 AM »

   Been there , done that, I got mine from Banggood , same plastic box but black. I now use a small screw driver to pry open the lid, SLOWLY.
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Prosper
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« Reply #653 on: June 10, 2018, 08:39:33 AM »

Pete, that's nearly identical to a set I've got - You have to bend the little handle or hanger on top of the coloured tray down a bit, then the transparent top cover should slide back. It's difficult to bend it down with sufficient force whilst trying to slide the top with yer other hand. Dave's just posted - yeah, use a screwdriver to pop the 'catch' down.

Stephen.
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LASTWOODSMAN
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« Reply #654 on: June 10, 2018, 07:40:18 PM »

Rearwin SPEEDSTER  30"      NOSE AND WING REPAIR

     Well, I said I was going to do it ...   I made some progress on the Speedster's broken wing and the smashed up nose today.   I built a couple of  1/16" stringer troughs for wing spar "doublers" - just slide them into place, and glue them up to broken stringers.     Glued in a few small broken pieces of the nose front former.   I butt end  glued two , two inch long leading edge pieces together - the shear slivers fit into one another.   Glued a  2" piece of trailing edge to the broken wing root.  Made a new add on,  0 .080" thick front former plate, to be glued over what is left of the real one.  And cut out two   "R2"  ribs for wing root attachment.

Pics      9466   9468   9470   9472   9474    PHOENIX 3

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Richard
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OH, I HAVE SLIPPED THE SURLY BONDS OF EARTH ... UP, UP THE LONG DELIRIOUS BURNING BLUE ... SUNWARD I'VE CLIMBED AND JOINED THE TUMBLING MIRTH OF SUN-SPLIT CLOUDS ...
MKelly
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« Reply #655 on: June 11, 2018, 01:26:26 AM »

Started covering the cowl on the T-28 with orange-chalked orange esaki applied wet.  Don't know yet if I'll get through this without a big Cheeto thumbprint somewhere on the model...
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billdennis747
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« Reply #656 on: June 11, 2018, 02:52:16 AM »

That's some really neat work.
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Jack Plane
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« Reply #657 on: June 11, 2018, 06:06:45 AM »

Pete, you want one of these: https://www.nhbs.com/dialmax-vernier-dial-caliper

 Smiley
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PB_guy
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« Reply #658 on: June 11, 2018, 12:43:10 PM »

Reading a vernier caliper can be hard on old eyes. The dial caliper is better, but I prefer the electronic version. Occasionally they come on half-price sales.
see: http://www.canadiantire.ca/en//pdp/mastercraft-digital-caliper-0586800p.html
ian
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LASTWOODSMAN
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« Reply #659 on: June 11, 2018, 01:22:19 PM »

Rearwin SPEEDSTER  30"      NOSE AND WING REPAIR

     By the way, on this model, I glued the tissue covering to every stringer and every former and every rib, both top and bottom.   All the little tissue covering tears can be easily cut out now, and a new piece of tissue glued on and shrunk.
     I am just trying to get everything glued up a close as possible.  I really should have checked the crash site really well for all the missing pieces.
     I glued up the right front side of the fuse former and stringers.  The noseblock fits in OK.   The butt end glued,  3 1/2"  length, of the two shear broken, Leading Edge pieces, at the root of the wing, is now dry and straight.  This leading edge piece, also has the front center section rib tip boken off and still stuck to the leading edge  -  just to complicate things ...   And I glued on that broken off,  trailing edge of the root of the wing, that still has a triangular piece of tan color tissue covering stuck to it, and a big sliver of the rear center section rib,    just to complicate things ...   is also stuck to it,  for support, for now ...

PIC #1    9475      Gluing up the right wing root Trailing Edge - this has a big sliver piece of the center section rib that broke off and a big thick gusset.

PIC #2     9476     Three large   1/16"  gussets were added to the trailing edge.

PIC #3     9478     Broken 3" Leading Edge from wing root is glued up between the "Saran Wrapped"  balsa alignment planks on top of the big balsa block.

PIC #4     9479     Over view shot

PIC #5     9481     Other open side of fuse nose.  I will glue on the new bare white balsa former, first.  Then a stringer and infill planking.

PIC #6     9484     Fuse nose framework is coming along.

It has all come out nice and flat so far.  But it is all very tricky.

LASTWOODSMAN
Richard
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OH, I HAVE SLIPPED THE SURLY BONDS OF EARTH ... UP, UP THE LONG DELIRIOUS BURNING BLUE ... SUNWARD I'VE CLIMBED AND JOINED THE TUMBLING MIRTH OF SUN-SPLIT CLOUDS ...
Jack Plane
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« Reply #660 on: June 11, 2018, 01:36:17 PM »

Reading a vernier caliper can be hard on old eyes. The dial caliper is better, but I prefer the electronic version. Occasionally they come on half-price sales.
see: http://www.canadiantire.ca/en//pdp/mastercraft-digital-caliper-0586800p.html
ian

At work I moved from a vernier-scaled to a dial caliper (accurate to 0.01mm) precisely because I could eyeball it without having to put my reading-glasses on or have to engage what's left of my brain!  The model I suggested to Pete is my other one; it's only accurate to 0.1mm (actually 0.05 if you halve between graduations) which I keep at the machine end of my workshop (when I'm not filching it for use at the modelling table at home) because it is made of tough nylon and is less complaining of being dropped.  I find digital ones have a habit of oscillating around readouts, especially if accurate to two decimal places, and going flat if one forgets to switch the power off!
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Andrew Darby
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« Reply #661 on: June 11, 2018, 02:47:31 PM »

I have bought these for work to include with the equipment, they are ok and as Jon says are reasonably accurate.

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/calipers/8412537/

As for the digital ones, the cheap ones are quite poor IMHO, it’s one of those occasions that you get what you pay for. For me the only ones in the game are the Mitutoyo ones, they are £50-60 a set, but unlike the cheap ones the batteries last for years, even if you leave it switched on, and the display is as steady as you hold them.  I had a set for about 20 years until they got stolen, In that time I replaced the battery on only 5-6 times.  The new ones to replace them are absolute, which means they don’t loose the zero when you switch them off...

Andrew
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Klunk
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« Reply #662 on: June 11, 2018, 07:57:46 PM »

Good to see your Rearwin coming together again, Richard. That would be a real test of patience and ingenuity.

Mike that's really neat covering over balsa on your T28 cowl.

John
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LASTWOODSMAN
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« Reply #663 on: June 12, 2018, 12:23:32 PM »

     I got the front extra nose former glued to the "what's left" of the 30" Rearwin Speedster's original front former.   Double  ( more like quadruple ) white gluing, a  lot of preparation and sanding, and over night it dried CROOKED,  pulling the top of the former over to port left side.   EGADS !!   Have to live with it.  Yes, I had to get out a long round sanding stick, and sand in the upper port formers on the inside of the fuse - the rubber motor goes right down the center of the top circle of the oval opening.  All prep sanded and now ready for infill planking on the nose.

Pic #1      9489     Nose block is wrapped with "saran wrap"
Pic #2      9490     The former plate is glued in place and held in with the nose block. 
Pic #3      9492     I tried masking tape to hold that noseblock pressing inwards.
Pic #4      9493     Glued in place -  rather crookedly
Pic #5      9496
Pic #6      9499

LASTWOODSMAN
Richard
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OH, I HAVE SLIPPED THE SURLY BONDS OF EARTH ... UP, UP THE LONG DELIRIOUS BURNING BLUE ... SUNWARD I'VE CLIMBED AND JOINED THE TUMBLING MIRTH OF SUN-SPLIT CLOUDS ...
MKelly
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« Reply #664 on: June 13, 2018, 11:43:47 PM »

Finished up the cowl work on the T-28.  All tissue, no paint except on the crankcase cover. Line work is black colored pencil.

Mike
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dputt7
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« Reply #665 on: June 14, 2018, 03:26:17 AM »

Very neat work.
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DavidJP
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« Reply #666 on: June 14, 2018, 04:24:22 AM »

Yes can see it is tissue - so subtle unlike many paint finishes but perfectly applied.  Well done.
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ZK-AUD
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« Reply #667 on: June 14, 2018, 04:57:59 AM »

Lovely work Mike.  Must be something in the Texas water!!
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billdennis747
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« Reply #668 on: June 14, 2018, 05:24:14 AM »

Is it possible to explain in words how you covered round the inlets so perfectly? Can't see a join anywhere.
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LASTWOODSMAN
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« Reply #669 on: June 14, 2018, 08:45:48 AM »

REARWIN  SPEEDSTER  30"       NOSE AND WING REPAIR

     Mandrake and Bloodroot receive orders to do the repair themselves.  Being half machine,  they have been programmed with every bit of knowledge throughout man's history.   They are powerful Cyborgs, and had no trouble at all wielding around that big saw.
     The wing leading edge root is glued back onto the wing, and an extra temporary bracing plank is also glued between the LE and TE.

Pic #1     9505   Mandrake and Bloodroot take over.
Pic #2     9506    Mandrake and Bloodroot take a break after sawing all that wood.  They ARE half human you know.
Pic #3     9510    Mandrake and Bloodroot  are examining the test fit of an infill plank they just made.
Pic #4     9514     Rib Nose piece and rear of rib sliver
Pic #5     9516     
Pic #6     9517


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Richard
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OH, I HAVE SLIPPED THE SURLY BONDS OF EARTH ... UP, UP THE LONG DELIRIOUS BURNING BLUE ... SUNWARD I'VE CLIMBED AND JOINED THE TUMBLING MIRTH OF SUN-SPLIT CLOUDS ...
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« Reply #670 on: June 14, 2018, 04:18:01 PM »

Is it possible to explain in words how you covered round the inlets so perfectly? Can't see a join anywhere.

Bill,

The T-28 cowl has clamshell panels to facilitate maintenance - I broke the covering up the same way and used the panel lines to hide the joints.  Before covering I brushed balsa fillercoat over the cowl and sanded it smooth (helps hide the woodwork and makes it easier to slide the tissue around).  All covering was done wet with glue stick and 50/50 alcohol-water mix.  The orange tissue was chalked with neon orange to make it brighter and a bit more opaque.  Here's the sequence:

1. Covered the inside of the carb and oil cooler air scoops, wrapping the tissue around the inside of the cowl opening.

2. Marked the location of the panel lines on either side of the two scoops and the rear edge of the cowl with modeling tape.  Covered the scoop areas, trimmed the tissue to the tape lines, then removed the tape.

3. Marked the location of the right side cowl access panel with tape, then covered the bottom area between the tape and the oil cooler scoop.  Trimmed the tissue to the tape on the right side, then used a #10 curved blade to trim the overlap with the oil cooler scoop, trying to keep the overlap to about .5mm.

4. Marked the rough location of the antiglare panel with tape, then covered and trimmed the cowl sides and removed the tape.

5. Marked the final location of the antiglare panel with tape, then used a white Prismacolor pencil to tone down the orange tissue where the black would overlap (I had about 3-4mm overlap at these joints).

6. Used scrap tissue to make a template for the antiglare panel, then cut that from black esaki and applied it wet using the tape lines as a guide.  Had to do a bit of trimming to clean up the front edge.

7. Made the exhaust shields from silver esaki and put a 3mm strip of black esaki inside the cowl to mimic the gap between the cylinders and the inside cowl lip.

8. Using strips of index card as a straightedge, drew panel lines over the overlaps using a black Prismacolor pencil.  If you look closely you can see the tissue overlaps, but the panel lines draws the eye away from the overlaps and hides them pretty well

Hope this makes sense...

Cheers,

Mike
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billdennis747
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« Reply #671 on: June 14, 2018, 04:40:16 PM »

Mike, thanks for taking the time. The results are astonishing
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p40qmilj
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« Reply #672 on: June 14, 2018, 05:20:49 PM »

 Grin  put camo on the guillows spit and am working on fiddly bits.  also dis decals fpr p40 and hellcat

going to Jonah's for fishing and flying


JIM Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin
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« Reply #673 on: June 14, 2018, 08:07:20 PM »

Mike that was a worthwhile lesson in the detail use of tissue covering. Thanks for the effort.

Richard - you are overworking your cyborgs Smiley

Your air force will need a new hangar soon, Jim.

John
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« Reply #674 on: June 15, 2018, 01:35:38 AM »

Mike, very nice looking. Is it white Esaki chalked on the rough side? Is it already doped? The strong colours look very strong. Great job!

Roman
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