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Author Topic: What Did You Do Airplane Wise Today?  (Read 54123 times)
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BG
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« Reply #850 on: August 01, 2018, 12:02:05 AM »

Crabby I have heard this about rear pegs before but I have to say it make no sense at all to me. Why would a rear bobbin do anything to prevent bunching? I suspect that this might be a myth .... the best cure for bunting that I know is a well braided motor and moving th rear peg forward where there is more room in the fuselage.

BG
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« Reply #851 on: August 01, 2018, 01:12:54 AM »

Close to finishing my Autogyro Kayaba Ka-1 built from material scavenged from a Guillows Eagle glider kit. (build thread on S&T http://www.stickandtissue.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1529906684 )
Weight, including 4" guillows prop is 6.95 grams. Black and Red is done with a Sharpie. Tissue is dollar store material. Exhaust stacks are made from tissue tubes formed over turkey skewers.
ian
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Crabby
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« Reply #852 on: August 01, 2018, 01:54:19 AM »

Well, I suppose every specific condition has its cure, or cures. Some guys swear by this rotating peg system. I have used it but I rarely get a bunched up motor in any case, so I am a poor candidate to defend its virtues. Its not a myth, I have seen some accomplished modelers use this technique. Could be you never get a bunched up motor because you braid your rubber and tie off the end, thus the problem is circumvented. Here is a pretty good explanation of the idea of the "wobbly peg" http://www.hippocketaeronautics.com/hpa_forum/index.php?topic=20023.0

read up to response #7
« Last Edit: August 01, 2018, 02:08:45 AM by Crabby » Logged

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Crabby
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« Reply #853 on: August 01, 2018, 08:14:18 AM »

Bernard, actually you can skip to responses  #5 and #6 to get past all the indoor references...
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« Reply #854 on: August 01, 2018, 08:37:25 AM »

Richard, I don't quite understand your winding issue - are you not stretch-winding your motor? If you stretch wind it you should be able to get all the turns you expect on it, and it will only clump up into bunches as you feed it into the fuselage. At that stage the bunches should be evenly distributed and not just at the back.

If there is a free-sliding sleeve or bobbin holding the back end of the motor on its peg, and there's a large eccentric clump of knots flailing round at the back, and this impacts a structural member, the free-sliding sleeve allows this impact to shove the whole motor axis sideways*, and then back again as the clump hits the other side of the fuselage, therefore freeing the motor to continue spinning until it's time for that particular clump to unravel. One can observe the sleeve or bobbin busily shuttling from side to side. This much I've seen. If everything's set up right it can prevent the motor actually locking up. Where the fuselage cross-section is square or nearly so I imagine a clump could still lock against the top or bottom of the fuselage.

A locked-up clump will increase motor density behind the CG also, thus affecting the glide to some greater or lesser extent, but remember that that extra density will have been present all the time the clump existed (i.e. in the powered flight phase too).

However, whereas I don't see the peg sleeve or bobbin wheeze entirely as a myth, I don't pay it much attention. A reliable low-friction sliding setup adds weight and I think it's worth - where small, scale models are concerned - considering how that extra weight behind the CG measures up against the turns locked up in a big clump (say, 2-3 seconds flight). A bobbin might weigh a gram, and require 1.5 or 2g noseweight to balance it, for example. 3g extra weight for the same power. That may yield full motor turns, but flying a heavier model. The result could be the same as a slightly shorter motor flying a lighter (and simpler) model.

Stephen.

*at the cost of lots of energy lost to friction

P.S. Richard the kestrels junior are now grown up - or they thnk they are, and are striking attitudes and sulking. Seriously, they have dispersed so I haven't seen one for a week or so.
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p40qmilj
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« Reply #855 on: August 01, 2018, 11:14:05 AM »

 Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin  my zero now flies in a reasonably well behaved manner

here's what i did
1 added 1/32 more neg decalage to tail by cutting stringer and lowering it to allow to glue it to where stringer was
2 added wight to right wing to correct turn
3 remove elevator tabs
4 added canopy stucture inn balsa
5 added wing fillet.

minor tweaks, ha ha

jim Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin
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« Reply #856 on: August 01, 2018, 07:59:03 PM »

Nice looking Autogyro PB.

John
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PB_guy
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« Reply #857 on: August 01, 2018, 08:22:45 PM »

Thanks John. It has been a hoot. When I started the project, I had no idea what my 4th build would be. I have wanted to do Ray's Kayaba for a while now, and the amount of wood available seemed to fit the bill. 2 ornithological specimens with one pebble.
ian
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« Reply #858 on: August 04, 2018, 01:12:54 PM »

I spent a very hot afternoon in the workshop but I did manage to sort out the DH60 in anticipation of the Nats at the end of the month.

After lots of flying and lots of nose over landings the fin was suffering a bit. Cyno had saved the day a few times but it was looking like a witch's nose so it was time to build a new one. Nice easy job , though why I epoxied it on is lost in the annals of time :-( digging out the old glue without destroying everything else was not fun. i glued this one in with Aliphatic.

Some of the dummy rigging was replaced too ... Thanks again for the elastic Bill

 I also replaced the screen framing. I had done the original version in paper painted and varnished which looked good until the the damp got in and it started to fall apart.
This time I made the frame from a small strip of Ali Litho plate. I scored it down the middle to make an angle section and then very slowly and gently bent the angle section in to curve. As I bent it the angle opened up a bit but that actually seems to fit the profile of the full size. The acetate screen was stuck on with canopy glue, held in place with a rubber band around a battery while dried. The whole thing was then stuck on with more canopy and does the job to my eye.

Not sure if I'll get a chance to check the trim before Barkstone... hopefully I will
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p40qmilj
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« Reply #859 on: August 04, 2018, 02:51:45 PM »

 Grin  i've started an easy built spitfire which i will be heavily modifying to correct it closer to scale and to make it stronger. elevators and fuselage done wings are next. they will be reduced and widened.

jim Grin
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FLYACE1946
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« Reply #860 on: August 04, 2018, 06:11:54 PM »

I am building another P-1077 Julia kit from Easy-Built. At this point I have the fuselage built, the Horizontal stabilizer and one vertical stab built. It takes two vertical stabs. I really like the way this one is turning out. The wing is next.. Just want to get it finished and start covering everything. If anybody has any past experience with this one I would really like to hear from you.
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« Reply #861 on: August 05, 2018, 09:28:31 AM »

 Grin the wings are drying as is the rudder.  i musty now set up the dihedral and cover the wing and rudder i amm using a dark green /brown camo with light blue undersides. a weee bit o weight in the nose may be needed. i also moved the motor peg up one station span is closer to 16 making it a dimer.

jim
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« Reply #862 on: August 09, 2018, 02:33:24 PM »

REARWIN SPEEDSTER FLIGHT REPORT   July 29 2018

Well, I could not resist going flying again this AM with the  30"  Rearwin Speedster, even though the wind was marginal.   I was just trying for some slow short relaxing flights, as I have not yet moved the rear peg ahead one bay, in order to get more space for the rubber motor.  I only got in three flights, before once again, on a hard third landing, I broke the right strut fuse attachment point, and bent the prop.  The first flight was perfect 360 winds (not 450) and I still got the perfect 16 sec left hand turn flight and a very soft landing on one full circle - BUT - when it came around on the circle it came further wide in behind me, straightened out from the circle, and it casually glided down past the tree trunks of the perimeter !!  Huh Huh   I tried launching the next one further out in the middle of the Cricket Wicket where more wind was -  just an 8 sec low flight before hitting the grass, and the third I launched it badly at too high of an angle - see pic - it turned left into the wind and got slowed right down, and then straight into the ground almost, from a high stall, and a little bit of crash damage "flesh wounds", easily fixed.  
     So we packed up, stopped on the way back to look at our young fledgling Cooper's Hawks (5 weeks out of the nest), and came home to see if any pics turned out.

Pic #1     0228  THIRD FLIGHT LAUNCH
Pic #2     0229  HAWK RIGHT IN THE MIDDLE  - a sort of grayish looking oval of the breast with the hawk sitting at the end of the bare leafless part, of the 2" diam. branch that goes up to the right at  110 degrees
Pic #3     0230   HAWK IN BEHIND THE SPEEDSTER
Pic #4     0233   THE HAWK TREE
Pic #5     COOP 4
Pic #6     COOP 5

LASTWOODSMAN
Richard
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OH, I HAVE SLIPPED THE SURLY BONDS OF EARTH ... UP, UP THE LONG DELIRIOUS BURNING BLUE ... SUNWARD I'VE CLIMBED AND JOINED THE TUMBLING MIRTH OF SUN-SPLIT CLOUDS ...
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« Reply #863 on: August 09, 2018, 07:28:32 PM »

Nice clear shots Richard. The hawks look healthy. It will be interesting to see how the speedster performs with the rear hook moved forward a bay.

The extra turns will make life interesting in your small park.

John
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« Reply #864 on: August 09, 2018, 09:16:52 PM »

I have never tried this thread before, probably because I am too irregular to work in days.
Actually this day started a little after midnight on Wednesday.  I was pondering if I ever would build a glider and put some radio in it when I realized that the thingy I would need to move the rudder, which I always called an actuator, was called a servo by RC experts. This set me to thinking; do I need to read a book on RC? I looked on ‘Amazon’ and all though they had some books it seemed too complicated to buy anything so I tried ebay and a nice lady in the south of England had a copy of George Stringwell’s book on Radio Soarers which, with the help of ‘PayPal’ I managed to order in a few seconds and it should be here tomorrow so I went to bed happy at my usual time of 3am. In the morning I realized I had no time to read books because I was supposed to be making a new propeller for my indoor rubber job and the season will start at the end of the month.
So I wrestled my walking frame outside the door and plodded down the path (in my bandages, shoes won’t go over them!) to the garden room to fetch my electric drill so that I could sand down some tooth picks for my propeller spars. I just chuck the tooth picks in the drill, set low speed, and pinch them in a ‘V’ of sandpaper.  The nuisance is turning them end for end to do both ends.  If you haven’t tried this I can assure you it is simple; if you do it in a better way I would be interested to hear.  I have cut some propeller blades to shape in 1/32nd sheet. Just wondering whether to thin them before soaking and twisting or thinning them after soaking and twisting. Its getting towards 3am so I had better say goodnight.
John   
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DavidJP
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« Reply #865 on: August 10, 2018, 05:21:35 AM »

Hello John.  Years back like you I got the books on radio and struggled from there. Joining a club and mixing with folk who had been doing it for a while was the best way of "learning" the craft.  In case it is on any encouragement today R/C gear - particularly for a glider is pretty cheap and very light.  I have successfully used a Receiver weighing a few grammes that cost less than £10, a servo even lighter and cheaper, £3. and batteries that weigh almost nothing and again pretty cheap.  The biggest outlay would be the Transmitter but that is one off.  Yes there are some technical aspects to consider (compatibility etc) but it is a lot easier today in my view and very much cheaper.

However  for a little while now for me radio has taken a back seat because small FF models are the thing!.  One only has to look at the enthusiasm of people like Richard here and the fun he has to see what it is all about.  Clearly Dog (a name would be nice Richard) is a bit of a philistine as I detect an air of boredom?

I see your point John - posts on here should all be shortly before retiring - at the end of ones day!  Whenever that may be.
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« Reply #866 on: August 10, 2018, 08:38:19 AM »

You have made a good choice there John as George Stringwell as you may know has been an authority on RC for many years and a top thermal glider pilot in his day and is still active - apparently preferring small tissue covered RC models at the present.
Your Lulu would make an enjoyable RC glider with reduced longitudinal dihedral with elevator and rudder control.
How are the Penthouse Ladies faring?

John
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« Reply #867 on: August 10, 2018, 06:58:19 PM »

Thank you, David and (OZPAF)John, for your encouraging replies in #865 & #866. I won't say any more about motor gliders under this heading but I hope to continue later in the appropriate RC thread.
John
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DerekMc
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« Reply #868 on: August 10, 2018, 07:22:34 PM »

Hepcat, this thread is for all types of model aviation.  If it involves a plane it fits!
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« Reply #869 on: August 10, 2018, 08:06:10 PM »

Derek,
Much as I like you I cannot really agree with you! I think the thread discipline is often poor but to shew how malleable I am I will follow your suggestion.

All day today and a lot of other days recently I have been re-reading an advertizement that appeared in the last issue of BMFA News. It is for a 'Microzone' MC6A, 2.4 Ghz Multi purpose 6 channel Radio Transmitter and Reciever.  The price is £49.99.  I know virtually nothng about RC equipment so can someone who does know something about it please venture an opinion as to whether that might be a good buy or some kind of swindle?  My daughter says:"just get it, it costs me that much every time I fill up my car with petrol."
John
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« Reply #870 on: August 10, 2018, 09:22:16 PM »

Why or how could you not agree with Derek? This thread is under General Forum, General Discussion. So if an airplane is involved it is legal fodder.

As to your radio question, is it a good buy really has to do with your expectation. But it is not a swindle. I wouldn't want it as it is limited in the receiver options.

But if looking for the best RC value the deVention Devo 7e is good so is the IRangerX IRX-16X. These are low cost highly flexible radios that don't lock you into one type of 2.4 protocol. This flexibility does come at a cost, as these might not be Plug and Play as some firmware updates and other programing magic is often needed. But the hardware is robust and well suited for out RC toys.

I've seen this kit flying many grand children's aircraft.
https://alofthobbies.com/avionic-rcb6i.html
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« Reply #871 on: August 10, 2018, 09:23:01 PM »

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'Microzone' MC6A, 2.4 Ghz Multi purpose 6 channel Radio Transmitter and Reciever

I must admit that I have never heard of this company and do not have first hand information on their products. A Google search has at least indicated that on the surface the set looks quite reasonable and is of full allowed output power at least indicating full range.(liable to be around 1.5km on the ground). Range was not specified on any of the specifications I saw listed. It appears innovative in that it has no external aerials on either the Transmitter or receiver which is a practical plus.

Just as importantly for you John may be if they have a lightweight receiver as the one supplied appears to be 10g. Servos's apparently are not included but these can be sourced elsewhere - ideally to suit your particular application. These can be obtained down to 2.5g in rotary output form. The thing to keep in mind here is that while any servos will work with the receiver only A Microzone receiver will work with the radio.

Also Transmitters come in 2 basic stick modes - mode 1 and mode 2. I would suggest googling  transmitter Stick Modes but briefly Mode1 has the throttle and Aileron on the right stick, with elevator and rudder on the left. Mode 2 has aileron and elevator on the right stick and throttle and rudder on the left.

Which way you go will depend largely on who teaches you or fly's with you as either system generally becomes comfortable with practice.

The price is good and if you are happy with the receiver weight - why not choose a mode - preferably after having a talk and play with someone and a play with a transmitter, and go for it.

This is only a brief coverage and hope it helps.

John
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« Reply #872 on: August 11, 2018, 01:35:23 AM »

Whoops! Just play with the radio John Smiley not the someone I also mentioned Smiley Another Senior typo moment.

john
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« Reply #873 on: August 11, 2018, 03:49:19 AM »

I had a long flight at the Timperley Gala (30+ mins) with a Gollywock which we 'tracked' down to a tall tree three miles away in a large estate. Unbelievably, said tree is thirty yards away from a house wherein dwells a professional tree-climber. He's already got the fuselage and tail but didn't know about the wing (which has the tracker in) which must still be up there, although the battery has died. Fingers crossed he'll find it today.
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« Reply #874 on: August 11, 2018, 03:52:40 AM »

That is really nice to hear.  Pretty sure all the signs are you will find the wing as well!
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