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Author Topic: Combat Kitten by Top Flite w electric conversion  (Read 653 times)
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Konrad
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« Reply #25 on: September 20, 2017, 04:25:10 PM »

Just to be clear I'm talking about the control line wire ends. Not the motor leads.
The stainless wire will not take to soldering well. If you do get some to stick the heat will have taken out a lot of strength from the stainless steel wires. And then there is the stress riser at the end of the solder joints. Crimping actually offers less of a stress riser as the tube "gently" pinches the lines.

BTW is that a Midwest Matador (36 combat ship)
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Cut it twice and it's still too short!
bgrove
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« Reply #26 on: September 23, 2017, 01:11:09 PM »

Konrad:  That might be a Matador  Smiley  The resolution isn't good enough to zoom in and read the decal.

Here are a couple shots of the completed Kombat Kitten.  The only things left to do are make some flying lines, print and apply a logo and then go flying.

One bad thing I've done.  Lots of hatch mounting screws.  I have to undo them all to remove/change/charge the batteries.  And I have to do that just plug the battery in.  Then get the hatch back in place and put the little screws in.  I'm trying to come up with a way to at least have the battery attachment outside the plane so I can do that easily.  My hobby shop told me not to use "on/off" inline switch like I used to use when it was only the radio equipment pulling power.  Any ideas?
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Konrad
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« Reply #27 on: September 23, 2017, 03:58:08 PM »

On the scam the battle is left uncovered. But it is in the wing. This offers less drag than on top of the wing. A there is no oil to foul the wood structure this makes a good compromise between streamlining and practical convenient.  
Not sure what issue your LHS had. I often use a plug in shunt as s safty switch. But normally use the concept that once the battery is plugged in she hit and ready to go.
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Cut it twice and it's still too short!
Konrad
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« Reply #28 on: September 24, 2017, 12:06:45 PM »

I need to stop replying on the phone. I'm starting to feel like the President!

A re-write:
On the Scam the battery is left uncovered. But it is in the wing, streamlined by the LE. This offers less drag than on top of the wing. As there is no oil to foul the wood structure this makes a good compromise between streamlining and practical convenience.
  
Not sure what issue your LHS had. I often use a plug in shunt as safety switch. But normally use the concept that once the battery is plugged in she is HOT and ready to go. I hope your ESC has an over protection feature should you land while still under power.


I've just tried one of these timers.
http://www.stevensaero.com/E-Zee-Electric-Control-Line-Timer-ECL.html

It works well and is actually cheaper than the Hubin  timers I use on my other CL models.  
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Cut it twice and it's still too short!
Konrad
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« Reply #29 on: October 11, 2017, 10:29:03 AM »

Any more on this project? I've had my eye on the Combat Kittens as I recall how maneuverable they were.  The JR Satan and even the Scam are faster but have less wing area to help with the turn.
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bgrove
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« Reply #30 on: October 11, 2017, 10:56:58 AM »

Konrad:  The plane is all done.  I've made myself some flying lines with connectors after getting the advice to go to Cabalas.  I got some .008, 20lb. line and managed to make the two lines within an 1/8th of inch of each other  Smiley  Now I'm just waiting for weather and my son's work schedule to coincide so we can go try to fly it.   
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