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Author Topic: what kind of pens are you using to make panel lines etc  (Read 690 times)
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cman
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« on: September 13, 2017, 05:33:34 PM »

the subject about says it all!

Thanks,
Chris
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Pete Fardell
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« Reply #1 on: September 14, 2017, 02:48:28 AM »

A black Sharpie usually for me- preferably a new one where the point hasn't become a bit squashed. There's also a handy double ended Sharpie pen which has a much finer point on one side, but shares the same ink. I don't add many panel lines to models though- just use it for the ailerons mainly.
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Crabby
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« Reply #2 on: September 14, 2017, 08:08:56 AM »

When I make them and here is where less is more, I like the Gelly Roll. I think you can get 'em at Micheal's. Use like a woman uses eye make up, sparingly, and thoughtfully. You don't want to be a hot mess. Oh and for more un-solicited advice, don't use black, get three shades of gray.
« Last Edit: September 14, 2017, 09:08:54 AM by Crabby » Logged

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MKelly
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« Reply #3 on: September 14, 2017, 10:28:16 AM »

I've used Sharpie and Prismacolor fine line markers.  They work well, but keep in mind that they are soluble in dope/thinner.  I had to re-dope the tail on my Citabria to cure a persistent warp, and the elevator lines bled and made a mess of things.

I've since picked up some Prismacolor premier colored pencils (based on a suggestion from a Dallas-area free flighter) and have been using them to do the panel and control surface lines.  While you do have to sharpen them regularly, you can get a wide variety of colors and with practice can vary the line width and density to get some nice effects.

Hope this helps,

Mike
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dorme
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« Reply #4 on: September 14, 2017, 04:50:35 PM »

The easiest solution to the panel lines is to use a fine marker and then coat the line with a very fine brush using polycrylic.  Do not brush a lot.  Just once or twice.  Then you can spray with Krylon or use dope.  I prefer to use spray lacquer.  It is less sensitive to blushing than Krylon, and it is lighter than dope.
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cman
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« Reply #5 on: September 14, 2017, 10:23:56 PM »

thats great guys thanks for all the info. I'm going to try out some of your suggestions and see what works for me.

Thanks,
Chris
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Crabby
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« Reply #6 on: September 15, 2017, 09:46:11 AM »

Cman, one more thing then I will shut up. I found that by first using a very light value slightly broader than the panel line, before adding the actual line, gives the illustration of depth, and will take the kiss of death off a hard straight panel line. There is nothing more gross than a model with harsh overdone panel lines.
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fred
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« Reply #7 on: September 15, 2017, 12:41:50 PM »

I've had little luck with Sharpie Permanent Pens.
Big ones make 1/16 " thick lines  Wayy too thick IMO. Fine point Sharpies  make 1/32" ones.. Still too garishly thick.
 HB pencils do quite nicely  as these are Very controllable;  in depth of impression, line weight and line darkness.
 An aquired skill though.
 Also there are Micron brand felt pens (archival ink formula , if that interests) that are as sold as moderne substitutes for   Rapidograph tech pens.
 These come in the usual Rapidograph pen nib sizes.
 I like their 01 size which is a 0.25mm  line.
 Artists supply shops carry these.. usually.
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packardpursuit
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« Reply #8 on: September 16, 2017, 03:49:15 PM »

I always found that pens like to run, producing a splotchy line on semi-sealed tissue. Even old fashipon drafting bow pens leave a lot to be desired, but these will work with colored dope on a hard surface. I usually don't use a pen, but rather cut strips of tissue, which can be pre doped and painted, prior to slicing off the " lines". Neat thinner and a fine tip bush will adhere it to model's doped surface, instantly. I stick  plastic canopy and windshield glazing on in the same fashion.
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Rudder flutter
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« Reply #9 on: September 17, 2017, 03:36:33 AM »

Although they need a little practise and care, I have found by far the best pens to carry out linework on all sorts of model surfaces are the original Rotring pens. I use Rapidograph, which have a replaceable cartridge. They are not cheap, but a search on eBay will find some competitive prices. The lines are pin-sharp, and can be so fine, depending on nib, that you can replicate a good scale texture on a model, matt or gloss. Pics show the belly of a 1/20th scale (22" span) Nakajima Oscar, with an airbrushed tissue finish, and also my Peanut scale white foam Stuka.

Richard
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ironmike
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« Reply #10 on: September 17, 2017, 01:46:52 PM »

beautiful models sharp line work.
You are an artist
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cman
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« Reply #11 on: September 17, 2017, 02:54:10 PM »

i agree with ironmike very nice and way way more work than i expect to do!

Chris
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Rudder flutter
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« Reply #12 on: September 17, 2017, 03:10:03 PM »

beautiful models sharp line work.
You are an artist

Thanks Mike and Chris, much appreciate those comments. We all used Rotring pens at art school many years ago. As I said, they take a little maintenance, but if a 16 year old can master them, I reckon anybody can! Simpler alternative might be the Rotring Tikky ...

http://www.rotring.com/uk/fineliner-pen/154-tikky-graphic-fineliner-3501170814734.html
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Andrew Darby
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« Reply #13 on: September 17, 2017, 03:46:58 PM »

I used to use the isograph pens for technical drawings on film at university before I started to use CAD.  Filling them up and cleaning them was always a bit messy!  They cost me a fortune, as did all of the Rotring stuff that I saved to buy but were beautifully made and made pin sharp lines.  I still use the compass set, circle templates and adjustable square.

Using them made you an accurate draughtsman, no "undo" on a drawing with them!

I haven't thought about using them for panel lines, I may have to buy some new ones to try as my original ones have long since gone.

Andrew
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« Reply #14 on: September 18, 2017, 07:42:03 AM »

I still have all of my Rotring pens plus quite a few nibs (somewhere Roll Eyes).  I've tripped over them recently, but never thought of using them for panel lines (head slap...).

The biggest issue would be finding inks in various colors... Nearest decent art store is 30 Kilometers away, but even they only had 3 ink colors that would work with the pens Undecided.
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cman
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« Reply #15 on: September 18, 2017, 05:02:52 PM »

i have one last question for you guys: do you seal your tissue before or after you use your pens of choice?

Chris
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« Reply #16 on: September 19, 2017, 07:17:33 AM »

Beautiful line work. Very convincing.

john  Wink
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Rudder flutter
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« Reply #17 on: September 19, 2017, 09:38:49 AM »



The biggest issue would be finding inks in various colors... Nearest decent art store is 30 Kilometers away, but even they only had 3 ink colors that would work with the pens Undecided.

Try eBay Pit, you should find the inks.
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