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Author Topic: WW I Cook Up  (Read 47381 times)
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skyraider
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« Reply #225 on: February 04, 2018, 06:57:08 PM »

Don,
   Nice print job! Remember the colors will darken slightly after
sealing the tissue.

Mike,
     Stellar Rumpler and excellent rigging.

Skyraider
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DavidJP
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« Reply #226 on: February 05, 2018, 06:05:28 AM »

I picked up a number of the tips mentioned above, including the use of the soldering iron, from a plastic modelling site years ago.  Bear in mind that most of those models are smaller than ours so rigging is that much harder although they do perhaps have a more rigid and robust structure to start with. But as Mike says rigging is hard work and you just have to face up to it.  But then is not aeromodelling a  challenge anyway? 

Some very good stuff on here though as always.  Hence a reluctance to post picture of my Spad5a which predictably is coming out a a bit heavy - so I am glad, Andrew,  I got my Gordon book on Structures as the trebuchet will undoubtedly be useful in launching it.  Seemingly the trebuchet was best a lobbing heavyweights over walls etc. but not for accurate "fire".  That will do. 
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weetle
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« Reply #227 on: February 05, 2018, 02:05:43 PM »

The tail section is basically done for the Fokker DVIII. I do have to slice out a new piece of 1/32x1/16 for the fuse, but this is a good amount of progress for the day.
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OZPAF
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« Reply #228 on: February 05, 2018, 05:12:58 PM »

The fuse looks light ! nice work Weetle.

John
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Crabby
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« Reply #229 on: February 06, 2018, 06:19:26 AM »

these planes will kill you if you don't keep their ass-ends light.
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Crabby
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« Reply #230 on: February 08, 2018, 04:31:44 PM »

I am at the point where I begin the staining of the condenser paper. I have the slap-bam method all in my head, but before I jump right into the boiling fat, if anyone reading this has done it, let's please hear the war-stories. I really am believe it or not, shooting for 10 grams. I am already at 6 gr. I have a bottle of dk green and a bottle of tan I am thinking about a mix to get that nice WW1 British khaki. But what I am looking for is a good method other than the handy-man approach!
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Art356A
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« Reply #231 on: February 08, 2018, 08:47:39 PM »

The rigging work on some of these models is inspiring. They've made me decide that if I go in at all, it'll be with a Hansa-Brandenburg D-1.

art.
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« Reply #232 on: February 08, 2018, 11:50:59 PM »

Hansa-Brandenburg D-1: Holy interference drag Batman!  Does look cool though.  So does the flying boat.
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DWCollins
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« Reply #233 on: February 09, 2018, 02:09:02 PM »

Wings and tail surfaces covered for the DH-9 !
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DavidJP
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« Reply #234 on: February 09, 2018, 03:23:49 PM »

Looks nice Dsvid ...... but how did you do the decals please.

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DWCollins
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« Reply #235 on: February 10, 2018, 09:58:43 AM »

All printed tissue with a dusting of white Design Master on the back.
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dosco
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« Reply #236 on: February 10, 2018, 10:47:43 AM »

I am at the point where I begin the staining of the condenser paper. I have the slap-bam method all in my head, but before I jump right into the boiling fat, if anyone reading this has done it, let's please hear the war-stories. I really am believe it or not, shooting for 10 grams. I am already at 6 gr. I have a bottle of dk green and a bottle of tan I am thinking about a mix to get that nice WW1 British khaki. But what I am looking for is a good method other than the handy-man approach!

Doesn't the condenser paper "shrink horribly forever and ever" ...?

If so, how do you compensate?

-Dave
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Art356A
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« Reply #237 on: February 10, 2018, 12:12:17 PM »

Strat-o, don't wires generate drag as well? And does it matter on something that flies 2 MPH, if it flies at all? Anyway, Starstrutters had six wires,  an "X" between the fwd u/c struts, a pair to the ailerons running up behind the rear cabanes, and a pair to the rudder horns (elevator wires were inside the fuselage). So there'd be a little bit of needle-and-thread work involved.

First I'd have to get over to Kinko and get the plans in the book printed up at 400% (1/12 scale, 28 inch span). 

a.
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Sky9pilot
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« Reply #238 on: February 10, 2018, 04:52:24 PM »

Don't know how I missed this cookup??? Some fantastic models being built here.  I've been wanting to do a WWI bird again but haven't narrowed it down yet.  Think I might try to join y'all if that's ok?
I'll get back tomorrow with an aircraft, I've got a couple in mind...I'm leaning towards Dave Rees' Roland CII Walfisch.
Tom
« Last Edit: February 10, 2018, 05:10:51 PM by Sky9pilot » Logged

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Art356A
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« Reply #239 on: February 10, 2018, 05:04:00 PM »

Here's a 12.75 inch version. 13.35 gms with no fuel or ammo. It should have flown but it wouldn't. It's moving up to Palm Bay with Crabby and his compadres at the end of the month; maybe more skilled hands can get more out of it than I could.
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My arms are so weak, it's like that pushup I did last year was a total waste.
Crabby
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« Reply #240 on: February 10, 2018, 06:34:42 PM »

Dosco, I have used condenser paper on a lot of jobs and never came across anything reminiscent of the hellish condition you describe. But there is still time. Grin I have heard other guys struggle with condenser paper, I guess it can be as hard to deal with as you decide to make it
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billdennis747
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« Reply #241 on: February 12, 2018, 04:33:45 PM »

A Fokker DII. 36", Mills 75, not very heavy.
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OZPAF
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« Reply #242 on: February 12, 2018, 06:24:41 PM »

Good grief Bill - you must build while you're sleeping Smiley. Another nice build.

John
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billdennis747
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« Reply #243 on: February 13, 2018, 02:50:25 AM »

I think I do, John. They'd look better if my eyes were open!
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DavidJP
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« Reply #244 on: February 13, 2018, 06:07:02 AM »

OK Bill, so what do you mean by not very heavy please?  I suppose half the weight of my half size (18” span) SE5. 

But I can see the wisdom of the choice of aircraft to model.  Pretty straightforward construction - not too much timber but looks the part.  All down to experience I guess. Hmmmmm?
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billdennis747
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« Reply #245 on: February 13, 2018, 08:35:24 AM »

OK Bill, so what do you mean by not very heavy please?  I suppose half the weight of my half size (18” span) SE5. 

But I can see the wisdom of the choice of aircraft to model.  Pretty straightforward construction - not too much timber but looks the part.  All down to experience I guess. Hmmmmm?
David
It's a Peter Rake electric design, modified for FF, so it's light. It will be 12oz = 5oz/sq ft. The drawback is no dihedral but it's flexible and I've cheated a little bit. Dihedral is overrated.
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Crabby
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« Reply #246 on: February 13, 2018, 10:38:49 AM »

After 2 weeks in the classroom, and while there catching a hell of a bug, and then failing the final to boot, here is some actual progress on the Tripe. I boiled and formed reed for the rudder, and made the stab from some 3/64 square. The landing gear are plug in, you can see the extra long wire I still have to bite off a little. I am not looking forward to all those %$#&ing ribs staring at me wanting to be three wings!
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skyraider
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« Reply #247 on: February 13, 2018, 11:50:05 AM »

Awesome work on the tripe crabby. Coming along very well.
Are you thinking full rib ( solid) or perhaps sliced ribs?

Skyraider
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DavidJP
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« Reply #248 on: February 13, 2018, 01:43:09 PM »

Thank you Bill.  My SE5 is at a similar stage and with a bit of licence I was almost right as it weighs in at 24gms!! ;)l

I am with you on dihedral as I have seen various examples of all configurations fly well (and in the case of a large vintage model) better, with reduced or no dihedral. Digressing slightly I am not entirely convinced that weight - that is “light” is always “good”.   But yours looks very purposeful and may I suggest the u“it will fly” look.
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billdennis747
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« Reply #249 on: February 13, 2018, 02:11:59 PM »

Digressing slightly I am not entirely convinced that weight - that is “light” is always “good”.   But yours looks very purposeful and may I suggest the u“it will fly” look.
I find the lighter the model, the less the ground shakes on impact and the fewer bits to bring back. They fly slower too.
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