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Author Topic: My first build in 50 years--Guillows Series 500 Hellcat  (Read 491 times)
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BalsaGuy55
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« on: January 07, 2018, 08:42:59 PM »

Certainly a lot has changed since the last time I built a Guillows kit when I was about 12 years old (I'm now 62).  Unlike then, there are now resources to actually learn how to build a model correctly, such as this great forum.  When I built these kits before, the was no internet and I didn't have any mentors or anyone really to teach me.  Now, the available resources are incredible.

I have posted some photos of my Guillows Hellcat.  I made a number of mistakes.  Building the plane was easy.  The hard part was tissue covering, although I think I got better as I went along.  I still have a long way to go.

Here are some build notes:

1.  I used Titebond Quick and Thick adhesive, which sets much faster than the other Titebond glues.  It's not water-proof, but I didn't see any problems with glue joints when I did my tissue covering.

2.  I used a 50/50 mixture of Elmers's glue and water to  both affix and seal the tissue instead of real dope.  I have become very sensitive to chemicals and really don't want to use the usual stuff, but the Elmer's glue produced some mixed results.  It seems to seal the tissue ok, but I noticed that on a really humid rainy day, the tissue  seems to start looking like I had just coated it--loose and wrinkly.  I think I might try Krylon clear acrylic spray for my next build and use my respirator.   I used Peck tissue for covering.

3.  I built a "functioning nose block" because I want to learn how to trim and fly this series.  

4.  I substituted a Peck thrust bearing for the Guillows kit version.

5.  The decals were a disaster.  When I slid the decals off the sheet, most of them simply split in several places despite exactly following the instructions.  I ordered another sheet from Guillows and will try again with Micro Sol and Micro Set.

6.  I used Testor's spray and bottle paint for the various plastic parts and painted while wearing my respirator.  I did not paint the tissue so I could minimize the weight.

7.  The landing gear are detachable for flight.

8.  The total weight without rubber and the detachable landing gear is about 30 grams.

So, I do have a few newbie questions:

1. I have read many posts about the rubber "motor" for these planes, but I still don't understand how exactly to set up multiple loops.  Do you use one continuous loop and fold it back on itself to make four strands or do you actually use two separate bands together to make four loops?  Sorry, for such a silly question, but I can't seem to find the answer.

2. I have purchased a box of FAI 1/8" rubber from Peck  for my motor.  What length and number of strands would be recommended for my Hellcat?

3. I failed to build "wash-out" in to the wing tips (I will certainly do it on my next build).  I found out that this is recommended after I had finished and covered the wing.  Is there another way to get the same effect?

4.  I have read that it is a good idea to build extra dihedral into the wing.  For the Hellcat, the Guillows spec is 7/8".  When I build my next kit, how much should I increase the wing angle?

4. I want to add stiff packaging cellophane for rudder and elevators to help with trimming. What dimensions would be recommended for the tabs?  

There are some true masters on this forum.  I have been amazed at the photos of the same Hellcat kit that I built by those who really know how to do it and it gives me a lot of inspiration.  I also have the Series 500 Avenger and FW190 laser kits.  I think that I am going to start on the FW190 next.


Attached files Thumbnail(s):
My first build in 50 years--Guillows Series 500 Hellcat
My first build in 50 years--Guillows Series 500 Hellcat
My first build in 50 years--Guillows Series 500 Hellcat
My first build in 50 years--Guillows Series 500 Hellcat
My first build in 50 years--Guillows Series 500 Hellcat
My first build in 50 years--Guillows Series 500 Hellcat
« Last Edit: January 07, 2018, 09:11:28 PM by BalsaGuy55 » Logged
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« Reply #1 on: January 07, 2018, 09:09:10 PM »

Nicely done!  On the rubber loops, you are correct double over a longer loop to get 2 shorter loops or 4 strands.  I would suggest a 4 strand motor about 1 1/2 As long as the prop to the rear attach point.  This will give you a softer burst of power and the motor will run longer too.  I agree that we are in the golden age of stick and tissue because of the internet and sites like this one!
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I used to like painting with dope but now I can't remember why!    Steve Fauble
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« Reply #2 on: January 07, 2018, 09:53:19 PM »

Well done,BalsaGuy.

Scott
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« Reply #3 on: January 08, 2018, 05:34:50 AM »

Very tidy job after a half-century furlough BalsaGuy55, congrats.

Stephen.
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« Reply #4 on: January 08, 2018, 08:13:11 AM »

Very tidy job after a half-century furlough BalsaGuy55, congrats.

Stephen.

That's exactly what I thought!  Smiley

Get hold of a copy of Don Ross' book 'Rubber Powered Model Airplanes' which contains a wealth of information and is very readable:
http://www.flywords.net/index.html

Re adding washout now you've covered and doped, this is certainly possible.  Hold each wing tip over a steaming kettle or pot of water until reasonably saggy, then carefully bend the last quarter of the TE up with your fingers.  Sight forward from the rear to ensure you bend in a similar amount (1/16th or whatever the instructions state) to each wing.  Once the tissue has fully re-dried there will probably be some spring-back, so its a matter of trial and error.  But don't overdo the twisting each time, else you risk weakening the balsa joints.
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« Reply #5 on: January 08, 2018, 08:44:37 AM »

Is that a crystal radio set in the background?

 Grin

-Dave
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« Reply #6 on: January 08, 2018, 11:33:00 AM »

 Grin well done bg. been there done that.

jim Grin
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« Reply #7 on: January 08, 2018, 01:19:41 PM »



Get hold of a copy of Don Ross' book 'Rubber Powered Model Airplanes' which contains a wealth of information and is very readable:
http://www.flywords.net/index.html



I second that motion. Nice choice on the Hellcat it has a fine reputation
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BalsaGuy55
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« Reply #8 on: January 08, 2018, 01:32:28 PM »

Is that a crystal radio set in the background?

 Grin

-Dave


Hi Dave,  It's a regenerative receiver I built (my other hobby)  Smiley
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BalsaGuy55
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« Reply #9 on: January 08, 2018, 01:33:58 PM »

Very tidy job after a half-century furlough BalsaGuy55, congrats.

Stephen.

That's exactly what I thought!  Smiley

Get hold of a copy of Don Ross' book 'Rubber Powered Model Airplanes' which contains a wealth of information and is very readable:
http://www.flywords.net/index.html



Re adding washout now you've covered and doped, this is certainly possible.  Hold each wing tip over a steaming kettle or pot of water until reasonably saggy, then carefully bend the last quarter of the TE up with your fingers.  Sight forward from the rear to ensure you bend in a similar amount (1/16th or whatever the instructions state) to each wing.  Once the tissue has fully re-dried there will probably be some spring-back, so its a matter of trial and error.  But don't overdo the twisting each time, else you risk weakening the balsa joints.

Thanks so much!  I have ordered his book and look forward to reading it.   I'll also try the steam kettle trick.  Smiley
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BalsaGuy55
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« Reply #10 on: January 08, 2018, 01:35:50 PM »

Nicely done!  On the rubber loops, you are correct double over a longer loop to get 2 shorter loops or 4 strands.  I would suggest a 4 strand motor about 1 1/2 As long as the prop to the rear attach point.  This will give you a softer burst of power and the motor will run longer too.  I agree that we are in the golden age of stick and tissue because of the internet and sites like this one!

Thank you for that!  Finally, I understand it.   Smiley

Dan
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Olbill
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« Reply #11 on: January 08, 2018, 03:57:05 PM »

My first model.
Attached files Thumbnail(s):
Re: My first build in 50 years--Guillows Series 500 Hellcat
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BalsaGuy55
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« Reply #12 on: January 08, 2018, 04:52:26 PM »

My first model.

 Smiley

Was that a Guillows kit or scratch build?
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Olbill
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« Reply #13 on: January 09, 2018, 12:39:29 AM »

It was a kit but I don't know who made it. The picture is from about 1952 or 1953.
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« Reply #14 on: January 10, 2018, 05:50:13 PM »

That is a nice build for being away so long!! Logair
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