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Author Topic: Help identifying an old F1G front end  (Read 877 times)
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Duncan McBride
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« on: January 22, 2018, 07:04:22 AM »

I have acquired a coupe that must be 12-16  years old from what I know.  Can anyone tell me whose front end this is?  It is well used but working, as is the coupe.  I can separate the rubber hook with a half twist - is there a fitting with which to wind the motor available for it?

Thanks,
Duncan
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« Reply #1 on: January 22, 2018, 07:43:41 AM »

Duncan,

Don't know the make offhand, but the easiest way to wind is by hooking directly to the winder. The wire on the winder between the bobbin and the U-shaped part of the hook. I've found this is much safer than using a bayonet fitting hooked to the winder. Not only is this a more positive connection between winder and bobbin, but the small bayonet fittings are very easy to loose. Depending on your winder, you may need to widen the gap on your winder's hook to fit the around the bobbin. I assume you have a winder with the "safety" type hook that has a U-shapped wire with spring. This is much safer than a bent wire winding hook. It also prevents losing the bobbin when you blow a motor winding.

Louis

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« Reply #2 on: January 22, 2018, 07:45:33 AM »

I think it could be a frontend of Aleksei Buckin.

Heinz
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Duncan McBride
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« Reply #3 on: January 22, 2018, 08:15:01 AM »

That's it.  Thank you very much.  I found a web address for Bukin in the FFQ coupe survey but the link is inactive.  Are any prop blades being made that would fit this?  One is cracked and I'd like to replace the pair.  If not and I have to reuse the fittings, I'll carve some.

Louis, thanks for the advice, that sounds like the way to go.  I'm using an antique Wilder winder now and will need to fashion a wider clip to accommodate the bobbin.  Or buy one of those exotic foreign models   Cool  They look pretty nice.

Thanks again,
Duncan

Edit:  I found Bukin's website.  Onward!
« Last Edit: January 22, 2018, 09:09:15 AM by Duncan McBride » Logged
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« Reply #4 on: January 22, 2018, 11:41:09 AM »

Link please!
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« Reply #5 on: January 22, 2018, 12:56:16 PM »

Ducan;

I had to machine a new one for one of my winders. If the Wilder winder has a threaded shaft, you should be able to unscrew and replace with bigger safety hook. There might be a wire pin running through shaft. Threads are most likely inch rather than metric. If you have a metal lathe, it will be real simple to bore and thread hole for shaft. Be sure to use "good" aluminum, not the big box store stuff. Making the slot will require a milling operation or hacksaw and files.

Louis
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« Reply #6 on: January 22, 2018, 12:59:47 PM »

Are any prop blades being made that would fit this?  One is cracked and I'd like to replace the pair.  
Edit:  I found Bukin's website.  Onward!
Duncan,
I believe that Mr. Bukin has passed away. I think that you could use Evgeny Gorban blades on that hub. they were good friends and made similar models. Evgeny makes some of the best F1G's and parts.
Evgeny's email: gorbanf1@ukr.net

Regards,

tmat
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DerekMc
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« Reply #7 on: January 22, 2018, 01:12:05 PM »

Are any prop blades being made that would fit this?  One is cracked and I'd like to replace the pair.  
Edit:  I found Bukin's website.  Onward!
. Evgeny makes some of the best F1G's and parts.

Regards,

tmat

He does and they are all unique!  Comparing his prop blades can be interesting. Or at least they were 5-6 years ago!
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« Reply #8 on: January 22, 2018, 01:33:33 PM »

Well this may have been the site but it appears dated.  I don't know it is still active, but there are listings of F1B and F1G material there.   http://www.f-f-models.narod.ru/orders.ht
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« Reply #9 on: January 22, 2018, 01:55:59 PM »

From Ludmila Stamova‎ on FB ·15 May 2016

Very sad news came today morning, Our dear friend, famous Ukrainian F1B flyer Alexey Bukin passed away. He was just 60 years old. We'll never forget you, and You are forever in our hearts. Our prayers are with his family.
Rest in peace Alexey.

That was posted in SEN a few years ago.

Tmat
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Duncan McBride
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« Reply #10 on: January 22, 2018, 02:58:59 PM »

I returned to Free Flight after a long absence, and in the past few years I have found myself so very grateful for the modelers that have contributed so much to keeping keeping this wonderful hobby going.  The designers, manufacturers, mail order and then internet retailers, correspondents, organizers, and enthusiasts who won't give up even when contestants dwindle, and fields are lost.  Mr. Bukin leaves an admirable legacy to us all.

And perhaps in some small tribute, I shall try to get one of his models to fly again.  The last coupe I built was a Bob White Beau Coupe thirty years ago.  One wound it up and threw it.  Mr. Bukin's on the other hand, has all these little lines leading from a timer to various part of the plane.  Two I have deciphered, the auto-rudder and the DT.  I believe the third is a VIT line that leads out of the tail boom just ahead of the DT line, next to a small machine screw in a fitting.  This was disabled when I got the plane, and a DT limit line was attached to the screw and threaded through the stab and glued to a pin on the top that served as a hook for the stab rubber bands.  That was pretty nasty and I tore that all out.  What I'd like to find out is how the VIT line should be attached to the stab, and what the original stab hold-down hook looked like.  I've attached a picture of the boom with monofilament line coming out the VIT fitting.  I haven't been able to find any closeups on the web that would illuminate.

Thanks everyone.
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« Reply #11 on: January 22, 2018, 03:48:50 PM »

I believe the Bukin coupes were sold through FAI Model Supply. Maybe a source of spares and info? A pic of the stab center section will help in sorting the lines.

Re: Winder - If a Morrill Sidewinder front end can be adapted to your Wilder winder, I have the Morrill parts, might cost you a drink at the next Nats.

Norm Furutani
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DerekMc
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« Reply #12 on: January 22, 2018, 06:10:16 PM »

That is the same set up that Burdov Coupes use. The Vit is the aluminum tube sitting on the end. See the screw in the top? that slots into the middle of the stab.  You will see a keyhole slot in the stab. The aluminum fitting slides through the hole and along the slot capturing the stab. The line is front is the vit line and slide through a small hole in front of the keyhole slot.  This is hard to describe. I'll grab one of mine and take a few pictures. Will post shortly.
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« Reply #13 on: January 22, 2018, 06:28:03 PM »

Okay. Here is the first picture:



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Derek
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« Reply #14 on: January 22, 2018, 06:49:45 PM »

A picture of the middle of the stab showing the keyhole for the aluminum tube and the hole for the DT/VIT line
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« Reply #15 on: January 22, 2018, 07:00:46 PM »

A couple more pictures.

 The first is of the DT line run through the first hole with the knot captured on the bottom side. The hole should have a small slot that the line will pass through with the knot trapped on the bottom.

The second has the glide setting aluminum tube hooked through the keyhole in the stab.
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« Reply #16 on: January 22, 2018, 07:12:04 PM »

These pictures show the stab in glide mode, then DT mode.

Look closely at the first and you will notice the gap between the stab and the VIT block.  Your plane uses an adjustment screw. YOu set the VIT by turning your screw. Out for less, in for more VIT.  If your plane has flown before the VIT screw is probably in a safe place. Don't mess with it until you have tried it!  My screw fell out and I replaced it with  balsa that is sanded to the right height.  It's hard to see the gap because of the aluminized mylar.  Compare it to the last picture and you will see it.

The last picture has the stab in the VIT mode.  The stab rests on the balsa VIT limiter.  The important part is how the aluminum glide setting post is pulled tightly down to the tailboom. The stab isn't touching the aluminum tube. It must be able to move from the VIT setting to glide setting without any friction when the VIT line releases. If it doesn't the plane will VIT into the ground.....

I hope that helps.  It's a pretty nifty system once you figure it out.  Feel free to ask questions if it isn't clear!
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Duncan McBride
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« Reply #17 on: January 22, 2018, 10:14:00 PM »

Wow, thanks, that's just what I needed to see.  I need a hole in the stab big enough to pass the VIT line through to hook over the tie-down hook on top the stab.  On mine it had been filled in.  I can rig that pretty easy.  I'm wondering if the machine screw is long enough to locate the stab where it needs to be, but I can work that out.  The mirror finish of the mylar threw me for a minute, I though I was looking at two models, but then it came into focus. 

Hey, thanks to everyone who pitched in, I have learned a lot in a short time.  If only I could build this fast.

Duncan
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