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Author Topic: Some questions about mylar  (Read 446 times)
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pedwards2932
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« on: January 27, 2018, 08:59:52 AM »

I have started using mylar covering and am getting pretty good results.  The only issue I have been seeing is getting clean cut edges.  I have been using a scalpel which cuts pretty good but I am not steady enough to cut exactly on the edge.  When I use tissue I usually sand the edges to get them smooth and get the stray pieces that aren't cut.  Mylar doesn't seem to sand that great just wondering if anyone has experience with it.  I just did a Guillow P51 in mylar and painted it black then silver and I think it came out pretty good just the tail surfaces could have had cleaner edges.   Also when using mylar on flying surfaces do you only use glue on the outside edges or on all contact points?
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Bryanair
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« Reply #1 on: January 27, 2018, 09:29:33 AM »

I use a soldering iron - just run it quickly along the edge of the wing etc.
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pedwards2932
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« Reply #2 on: January 27, 2018, 10:16:28 AM »

Interesting that makes sense.  I will try that next time.  How do you handle seams?  I glue seams but the glue doesn't work well with the trim iron as it makes it want to stick.  I am using glue stick to stick it to the frame and it works great.  I tried some of the heat activated stuff and it was much harder to use and the results weren't as good.
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Bryanair
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« Reply #3 on: January 27, 2018, 10:30:37 AM »

I use neat heat activated Balsaloc for sticking the mylar to the structure and on the seams.  A domestic iron to activate and shrink the Balsaloc  On flying surfaces I only put Balsaloc on the outside edges.
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RalphS
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« Reply #4 on: January 27, 2018, 11:16:41 AM »

To tidy get tidy edges I use a snapped double edged razor blade to cut then run the hot iron along the cut edges to shrink them back to the framework. 

I have only ever used very thin contact adhesive to stick the mylar.  I usually coat edges and top of ribs.  Use a sharp needle or modelling pin to put a hole in ribs, etc., to allow air to escape between cells to stop the mylar ballooning.

Have a look at Flyguy's covering jobs for perfection.

Keep at it.

Ralph
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pedwards2932
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« Reply #5 on: January 27, 2018, 11:41:39 AM »

Yeah Flyguy is where I got the notion to try mylar.  I have a KK Ace that I have covered with it but am waiting to get my servo/reciever set up before I finish the covering.  I used balsaloc but I didn't like it as well as glue stick....I think Flyguy uses Uhu.  Like anything else with this hobby you get better as you do it and ask questions from those that have been there.  The soldering iron will probably solve my issue and I like the idea of final sealing edges with some glue. 
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faif2d
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« Reply #6 on: January 27, 2018, 02:35:01 PM »

We used to use Doculam to cover combat models years ago.  The mylar had an adhesive on one side but it was not fuel proof.  I used to run a seam of glue along the edges to keep it all together.  Those only had to last about 4 or 5 flights so I have no idea how long that covering would have lasted.  The 1/4 mil mylar that I used on A2 tails was adhered with weldwood contact cement thinned.
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« Reply #7 on: February 13, 2018, 01:07:24 PM »

No idea what a mylar covering is. 
Familiar with tissue,  silkspan, airspan(s) and doculam types though.
Modge podge has proven a superior heat activated Glue than Balsaloc (which is essentially  regular White glue) in my uses.
 It's label claims it as dishwasher safe .. which suggests a fairly determined bond.
 Never ever put a model into a dishwasher to test this tho.
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