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Author Topic: Kryon Questions  (Read 1173 times)
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dhable
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« on: February 28, 2018, 06:40:19 PM »

Couple of questions when anyone has the time.

Exactly what "krylon" do you use?

Do you print "decals"  on bond paper? If yes what do you use to attach to the plane? And do you attach before or after you krylon?
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tom arnold
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« Reply #1 on: February 28, 2018, 08:00:01 PM »

I use Clear Matte for sealing tissue paper and I spray it into a bottle and then paint it on the tissue and balsa with a brush. This gives me much more control as to where I want the stuff to go over the area blast  from a can. Besides I want the Krylon to just soak into the paper but not run and a can is overkill. Usually I give the tissue and surrounding balsa 2 coats before color. Any more and it just seems to add weight for little benefit.

If I want to kill a gloss finish, I airbrush the Krylon over the model as, again, the can is like swatting a fly with a sledgehammer.

I stick tissue (or paper) insignia on with dilute white glue or glue stick. Since they are usually painted and susceptible to running from the thinners in Krylon, I will airbrush the Krylon on with one or more coats as a last step.  So the whole process would go like this:
Brush on Clear Matte Krylon on the shrunk and bare tissue (2 coats)
Airbrush on the color coats
Stick the tissue insignia on with glue stick  or dilute white glue
Give a last airbrushed coat of matte Krylon over the insignia area.

Many guys do a different process, I am sure.
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knapster
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« Reply #2 on: February 28, 2018, 08:29:52 PM »

I use true Krylon or other "clear sealants" from Michael's or Hobby Lobby, either glossy or matte depending.  I put one or two coats on before adding insignia.

I use bond paper especially for things that need to be white on a dark background like the Bearcat and the SE-5a.  I also print on tissue for things like the Cessna and Curtiss logos and tail numbers, too if I don't have a tissue color to match or they are just too little to cut out.  In either case, I attach with glue stick, then dust with clear over top.

My models don't compare to Tom's...I just use the rattle can, but I try not to get the "decals" very wet when I spray them, as it sometimes can make the white a bit translucent.  If needed, I spritz it several times very lightly.
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tross
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« Reply #3 on: February 28, 2018, 09:17:00 PM »

There are quite a few choices of Krylon in the art store.
I've always wondered if the low molecular weight Conservation Varnish would be a good sealer.
Is the Conservation Retouch Varnish like a blush removing lacquer (what I use mostly).
It takes a few coins just to try one.
What about the Krylon "Preserve It"?  
I have used the Low odor Clear, Matte, and Satin Finish without any trouble.
Good question.

Tony
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Instructions: Step One...Assemble the pile of sticks shown in pic "A" to look like the model airplane shown in pic "B"........
31Ford
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« Reply #4 on: March 01, 2018, 01:40:43 AM »

I use the Krylon "Crystal Clear" matte finish for everything that I don't use nitrate on. I find it in by the oil based artist paints in my local art supply store.

As an aside- Once tried some highly reduced(stuff left when I cleaned the paint gun) automotive clear used in base coat/clear coat paint jobs in a covering job. Actually worked pretty well and no shrinkage over time.  It's nasty stuff, as the activator is full of isocyanates and other stuff you shouldn't be breathing in. It added almost no weight once dry and had a nice sheen.

This experiment was a byproduct of my other hobby of vintage car restoration. I don't recommend it as a "go to" procedure as the materials are expensive and you need a respirator to spray it.

I'm sure there are many other things that would work well with experimentation.
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michellehughes
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« Reply #5 on: May 17, 2018, 11:06:25 PM »

I'm using Crystal Clear or Clear Matte Kryon because they fit me for 100%. I can advise them to you
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Hello! Have somebody tried ro vogue play? This is pretty interesting!
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