Logo
Builders' Plan Gallery  |  Hip Pocket Web Site  |  Contact Forum Admin  |  Contact Global Moderator
June 20, 2018, 03:18:22 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?

Login with email, password and session length
 
Home Help Search Login Register
Pages: [1] 2   Go Down
Print
Author Topic: Guillow Fly-Boy Build  (Read 1041 times)
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
Balsa Ace
Gold Member
*****

Kudos: 22
Offline Offline

Canada Canada

Posts: 415


Topic starter
FAC Member



Ignore
« on: March 03, 2018, 09:06:08 AM »

Back in the late 70's I built the Sterling P-40 kit.I had it finished,except for
the covering.I ended up giving it to my uncle,and it was accidentally de-
stroyed later on.

I just started building the Guillow Fly-Boy,and I want to not only get it built,
but also get it in the air. Smiley

Scott


 https://i.imgur.com/xWSwcwE.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/iHePggY.jpg
Guillow Fly-Boy Build
Guillow Fly-Boy Build
Logged

Hawker Sea Fury FB.11
HMCS Magnificent
VF-871   RCN
skyraider
Platinum Member
******

Kudos: 88
Offline Offline

United States United States

Posts: 1,229

WWW

Ignore
« Reply #1 on: March 03, 2018, 11:08:05 AM »

Scott,
   I never built one of these. I do like the simplicity though and will be following
along. 


Skyraider
Logged
Konrad
Platinum Member
******

Kudos: 35
Offline Offline

United States United States

Posts: 1,807


Measure twice cut once



Ignore
« Reply #2 on: March 03, 2018, 11:21:40 AM »

I have a question.

While I like the thin pins I've been told not to pin through the parts if at all possible. Rather hold the parts in place with pins in a X pattern.

Is this still the case? Or does the thinking go that the pin holes aids the dope to flow deeper into the wood?



All the best,
Konrad
Logged

Cut it twice and it's still too short!
Balsa Ace
Gold Member
*****

Kudos: 22
Offline Offline

Canada Canada

Posts: 415


Topic starter
FAC Member



Ignore
« Reply #3 on: March 03, 2018, 11:51:09 AM »

I have a question.

While I like the thin pins I've been told not to pin through the parts if at all possible. Rather hold the parts in place with pins in a X pattern.

Is this still the case? Or does the thinking go that the pin holes aids the dope to flow deeper into the wood?



All the best,
Konrad

Your advice about the X pattern sounds right,Konrad.I need to update my 1970's
building methods. Smiley

Scott

Logged

Hawker Sea Fury FB.11
HMCS Magnificent
VF-871   RCN
Konrad
Platinum Member
******

Kudos: 35
Offline Offline

United States United States

Posts: 1,807


Measure twice cut once



Ignore
« Reply #4 on: March 03, 2018, 01:39:39 PM »

Sorry, I wasn't trying to critique your methods.

I had assumed that with a name like "Balsa Ace" you were up to date with the latest process and knew some secrets I didn't.

All the best,
Konrad
Logged

Cut it twice and it's still too short!
pedwards2932
Silver Member
****

Kudos: 11
Offline Offline

United States United States

Posts: 243



Ignore
« Reply #5 on: March 03, 2018, 02:25:20 PM »

I have built several of these, they fly great.  I modified mine to use magnets to hold the wings on as I didn't like the way they did the rubber band hold down.  I think I also made the elevator and rudder with 1/16 instead of 3/32.   I think the plans I used were the Comet version and it was called Cloudbuster. 
.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x0MB3gVdX_0
Attached files Thumbnail(s):
Re: Guillow Fly-Boy Build
Re: Guillow Fly-Boy Build
Logged
MKelly
Gold Member
*****

Kudos: 36
Offline Offline

United States United States

Posts: 565




Ignore
« Reply #6 on: March 03, 2018, 02:32:53 PM »

I like the Coast Guard color scheme!
Logged
p40qmilj
Platinum Member
******

Kudos: 27
Offline Offline

Canada Canada

Posts: 1,675


love that P40Q



Ignore
« Reply #7 on: March 03, 2018, 02:37:29 PM »

 Grin  i did fly boy  ( it was comet's cloud buster back in 1971 )  man that plane flew good.  i still smile when i think of it.

jim  Grin Grin
Logged
Balsa Ace
Gold Member
*****

Kudos: 22
Offline Offline

Canada Canada

Posts: 415


Topic starter
FAC Member



Ignore
« Reply #8 on: March 03, 2018, 03:42:48 PM »

I agree with MKelly,pedwards,that USCG scheme looks very sharp.

Scott
Logged

Hawker Sea Fury FB.11
HMCS Magnificent
VF-871   RCN
bsadonkill
Bronze Member
***

Kudos: 5
Offline Offline

United States United States

Posts: 76



Ignore
« Reply #9 on: March 03, 2018, 08:32:25 PM »

I built one about 18 years ago. I used everything in the kit , except the rubber. I got some 1/8 inch tan from F.A.I. used 4 strands, i don't recall how long it was .  It flew well, maybe 45 seconds on 800 turns. Smiley
Logged
Balsa Ace
Gold Member
*****

Kudos: 22
Offline Offline

Canada Canada

Posts: 415


Topic starter
FAC Member



Ignore
« Reply #10 on: March 03, 2018, 08:57:44 PM »

Sorry, I wasn't trying to critique your methods.

I had assumed that with a name like "Balsa Ace" you were up to date with the latest process and knew some secrets I didn't.

All the best,
Konrad

My name might be "Balsa Ace",but that Sterling P-40 that I built in the 70's was the first
and only balsa airplane that I ever built.I built a lot of plastic kits back then though.That's
why I'm hoping I can get the Fly-Boy to actually fly. Cheesy
Logged

Hawker Sea Fury FB.11
HMCS Magnificent
VF-871   RCN
Balsa Ace
Gold Member
*****

Kudos: 22
Offline Offline

Canada Canada

Posts: 415


Topic starter
FAC Member



Ignore
« Reply #11 on: March 03, 2018, 09:01:20 PM »

Grin  i did fly boy  ( it was comet's cloud buster back in 1971 )  man that plane flew good.  i still smile when i think of it.

jim  Grin Grin

Very nice,Jim. Smiley
Logged

Hawker Sea Fury FB.11
HMCS Magnificent
VF-871   RCN
Balsa Ace
Gold Member
*****

Kudos: 22
Offline Offline

Canada Canada

Posts: 415


Topic starter
FAC Member



Ignore
« Reply #12 on: March 03, 2018, 09:03:26 PM »

I built one about 18 years ago. I used everything in the kit , except the rubber. I got some 1/8 inch tan from F.A.I. used 4 strands, i don't recall how long it was .  It flew well, maybe 45 seconds on 800 turns. Smiley

It sounds like a great flying model.Thanks for the tip on the rubber that you used. Smiley
Logged

Hawker Sea Fury FB.11
HMCS Magnificent
VF-871   RCN
Konrad
Platinum Member
******

Kudos: 35
Offline Offline

United States United States

Posts: 1,807


Measure twice cut once



Ignore
« Reply #13 on: March 03, 2018, 09:11:17 PM »

My name might be "Balsa Ace",but that Sterling P-40 that I built in the 70's was the first
and only balsa airplane that I ever built. I built a lot of plastic kits back then though. That's
why I'm hoping I can get the Fly-Boy to actually fly. Cheesy
If I as a snotty nosed 10 year old could get the Comet Cloud Buster to fly you surely can. I even got the Comet Fly Boy (stick fuse) to fly. It just didn't glide well. Look for some after market rubber and a lot of it.

All the best,
Konrad
Logged

Cut it twice and it's still too short!
Balsa Ace
Gold Member
*****

Kudos: 22
Offline Offline

Canada Canada

Posts: 415


Topic starter
FAC Member



Ignore
« Reply #14 on: March 03, 2018, 10:41:01 PM »

Well,now that I know that I shouldn't turn the balsa into Swiss Cheese with the pins,
things should go better,Konrad. Smiley

I was in a big hurry to get started building,looked at the plans quickly,saw pins in the
trailing edges,and assumed everything must get pinned down as well.I looked at the
plans a little while ago,and just like you said,the other parts were held in place using
the X pattern.That P-40 I built back in the 70's would have been a flying death trap
if it had ever gotten airborne. Grin
Logged

Hawker Sea Fury FB.11
HMCS Magnificent
VF-871   RCN
atesus
Gold Member
*****

Kudos: 21
Offline Offline

United States United States

Posts: 652




Ignore
« Reply #15 on: March 03, 2018, 11:05:04 PM »

I built the Cloudbuster version stock, covered it with some heavy gift wrapping tissue, flew OK but was never able to break the 1 min barrier. After losing both of my other planes in previous weeks, I was flying the Cloudbuster as a last resort in my club's contest, in the small rubber category. Once I replaced the prop with a 9.5" Czech unit and powered it with 4 strands of 1/8" 30" long motor it came alive. After minor trimming, the long motor run gave a nice slow climb in a right hand pattern. Previously it was named "The Red Racer" by club mates because it flew very fast and I could never get it to climb properly. Seeing its previous performance, I hadn't bothered to install a timer on it. In the contest I got a 1:40, a 3+ and a 7+ min and won the category but lost the model OOS on that last flight...

Good luck with yours! I'm sure it will give you a lot of fun. It's very durable too Smiley
--Ates
Attached files Thumbnail(s):
Re: Guillow Fly-Boy Build
Re: Guillow Fly-Boy Build
Logged
Balsa Ace
Gold Member
*****

Kudos: 22
Offline Offline

Canada Canada

Posts: 415


Topic starter
FAC Member



Ignore
« Reply #16 on: March 04, 2018, 05:48:14 AM »

Ates,thanks for those tips on the prop that you switched over to and the rubber.That's
a great inflight pic of your Cloudbuster.
Logged

Hawker Sea Fury FB.11
HMCS Magnificent
VF-871   RCN
tross
Gold Member
*****

Kudos: 37
Offline Offline

United States United States

Posts: 657




Ignore
« Reply #17 on: March 06, 2018, 09:51:31 AM »

These are fun planes to fly Scott. Smiley
Glad to see you're building. Grin

Tony
Logged

Instructions: Step One...Assemble the pile of sticks shown in pic "A" to look like the model airplane shown in pic "B"........
Balsa Ace
Gold Member
*****

Kudos: 22
Offline Offline

Canada Canada

Posts: 415


Topic starter
FAC Member



Ignore
« Reply #18 on: March 06, 2018, 05:02:53 PM »

Hi Tony,I'm enjoying the build so far. Smiley
Logged

Hawker Sea Fury FB.11
HMCS Magnificent
VF-871   RCN
Bargle
Gold Member
*****

Kudos: 21
Offline Offline

United States United States

Posts: 648




Ignore
« Reply #19 on: March 17, 2018, 09:11:37 AM »

Hi Balsa Ace. You've picked a good design to start with. I've built 3 of them. The 1st, built from an NOS Comet kit was the most aggravating plane to trim I've ever built. After giving up on it, I built 2 others from scratch using the Comet plan. Both of those flew just fine. I did make 4 mods to the design.
1. I built flat rails on top of the fuselage with multiple holes for pegs to mount the wing. Allows for balancing without having to add much weight and does away with having to wrap the large rubber band all the way around the fuselage. Also means the wing to stab angle (decalage) doesn't change if you move the wing.
2. I cut lightening holes in the rear fuse sections to remove some weight from back there.
3. I changed the landing gear mount to a flat sandwich plate mounted parallel to the bottom of the fuse. That way you don't have to feed the motor through a hole.
4. I made the nose the now common removable block type. Allows for easier thrust adjustments and makes it easier to insert the rubber.
The fuzzy pic is #3 in flight.


Attached files Thumbnail(s):
Re: Guillow Fly-Boy Build
Re: Guillow Fly-Boy Build
Re: Guillow Fly-Boy Build
« Last Edit: March 17, 2018, 09:27:53 AM by Bargle » Logged
Balsa Ace
Gold Member
*****

Kudos: 22
Offline Offline

Canada Canada

Posts: 415


Topic starter
FAC Member



Ignore
« Reply #20 on: March 17, 2018, 01:45:14 PM »

Hi Balsa Ace. You've picked a good design to start with. I've built 3 of them. The 1st, built from an NOS Comet kit was the most aggravating plane to trim I've ever built. After giving up on it, I built 2 others from scratch using the Comet plan. Both of those flew just fine. I did make 4 mods to the design.
1. I built flat rails on top of the fuselage with multiple holes for pegs to mount the wing. Allows for balancing without having to add much weight and does away with having to wrap the large rubber band all the way around the fuselage. Also means the wing to stab angle (decalage) doesn't change if you move the wing.
2. I cut lightening holes in the rear fuse sections to remove some weight from back there.
3. I changed the landing gear mount to a flat sandwich plate mounted parallel to the bottom of the fuse. That way you don't have to feed the motor through a hole.
4. I made the nose the now common removable block type. Allows for easier thrust adjustments and makes it easier to insert the rubber.
The fuzzy pic is #3 in flight.




Thanks for posting those pics Bargle,and thanks for your building tips too.

Scott
Logged

Hawker Sea Fury FB.11
HMCS Magnificent
VF-871   RCN
atesus
Gold Member
*****

Kudos: 21
Offline Offline

United States United States

Posts: 652




Ignore
« Reply #21 on: March 17, 2018, 05:37:43 PM »

1. I built flat rails on top of the fuselage with multiple holes for pegs to mount the wing. Allows for balancing without having to add much weight and does away with having to wrap the large rubber band all the way around the fuselage. Also means the wing to stab angle (decalage) doesn't change if you move the wing.

This is an excellent modification, now that I remembered how the curvature of the fuselage top made trimming difficult. The "change one thing at a time" trim mantra did not work with this model since as you tried to balance the model by moving the wing back and forth, the incidence also changed.     
Logged
pedwards2932
Silver Member
****

Kudos: 11
Offline Offline

United States United States

Posts: 243



Ignore
« Reply #22 on: March 17, 2018, 07:44:32 PM »

I found that the rubber band mounting of the wing would compress the fuselage where the wing mountain and effect the incidence.  The rubber bands also made the tissue stretch out of shape where they went across the wing.  That is why I opted for magnet hold downs.  I have built a bunch of these (keep losing them) so I know approximately where to mount the wing.....I still usually have to add about a gram of nose weight so I think I will incorporate the holes in rear section.  I have a laser cutter so it is fairly easy to do.
Logged
Bargle
Gold Member
*****

Kudos: 21
Offline Offline

United States United States

Posts: 648




Ignore
« Reply #23 on: March 18, 2018, 08:57:44 AM »

You're welcome, Scott. Glad to have my experiences help others.
Logged
Bargle
Gold Member
*****

Kudos: 21
Offline Offline

United States United States

Posts: 648




Ignore
« Reply #24 on: April 11, 2018, 07:55:18 AM »

Hi Balsa Ace. You've picked a good design to start with. I've built 3 of them. The 1st, built from an NOS Comet kit was the most aggravating plane to trim I've ever built. After giving up on it, I built 2 others from scratch using the Comet plan. Both of those flew just fine. I did make 4 mods to the design.
1. I built flat rails on top of the fuselage with multiple holes for pegs to mount the wing. Allows for balancing without having to add much weight and does away with having to wrap the large rubber band all the way around the fuselage. Also means the wing to stab angle (decalage) doesn't change if you move the wing.
2. I cut lightening holes in the rear fuse sections to remove some weight from back there.
3. I changed the landing gear mount to a flat sandwich plate mounted parallel to the bottom of the fuse. That way you don't have to feed the motor through a hole.
4. I made the nose the now common removable block type. Allows for easier thrust adjustments and makes it easier to insert the rubber.
The fuzzy pic is #3 in flight.
One more thing I didn't mention, but it shows in the rear fuse section picture.
5. I move the rear rubber position forward one or two bays.
Logged
Pages: [1] 2   Go Up
Print
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!