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Author Topic: Iron on Covering  (Read 284 times)
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Ministick7
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« on: April 13, 2018, 08:06:31 AM »

Hi,
I have not built a covered model for 15 years. Used to be Coverite and Monocote were two good choices. Is there a particular brand and type you prefer? I am especially concerned with keeping the weight of electric powered planes as light as possible. First kit to build is a Sig Fazer. That's a lot of built up wing to cover. Might even make the profile fuse lighter by adding holes and then cover it. Thank you.
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flydean1
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« Reply #1 on: April 13, 2018, 09:58:32 AM »

Ultracote and Ultracote Light are my two favorites.  You must have a structure robust enough to resist torsional loads as the iron-ons provide little in that area.

Others may have different experiences.  I'm sure they will chime in.
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Konrad
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« Reply #2 on: April 13, 2018, 02:54:05 PM »

R.A. micro light is the one I choose to use for my light weight iron on film. It might be too delicate for the Fazer.
http://www.homefly.com/products.asp?id=31

Today I think the best covering for these larger electrics is the Oracover lite. Vladimir Models uses this even on their 3.7 plus meter gliders.

In the USA it is branded by Hanger 9 as Ultracote Lite for the transparent colors and Ultracote ParkLite for their opaque colors. This is a polyester film. Also please make note of the weight units when comparing these films.

I place little or no value on the torsional stiffness properties of the iron on film.

Compared to MoneyKote, Oracover is very nice to work with.

Unfortunately many of the fine products Coverite brought to market were just rebranded Solarfilm product. As of February Solarfilm went out of business.
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Cut it twice and it's still too short!
lincoln
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« Reply #3 on: April 14, 2018, 07:51:51 AM »

I know there are some models which really depend on the covering for torsional stiffness. For instance, an Olympic II with covering that's a bit slack often flutters on winch launches. I don't know if the Fazer wing is stiff enough without the covering or not. If it does depend on the covering for stiffness, don't use the light stuff on the inner part of the wing, i.e. near the wing root.

I hear good things about Ultracote these days. Not sure if it's the same as Oracover or not. I've used it myself, but that was years ago. It was pretty good. Rumor has it that Monokote isn't what it used to be. That's unfortunate, because it was my favorite.
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Konrad
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« Reply #4 on: April 14, 2018, 10:41:26 AM »

Ultracote is Oracover, often times the inner packing materials are printed with the Oracover brand. And MoneyKote is not the same as it was in the 80's. The smell is very different. I think (don't know) that some of the chemicals Top Flite used (MEK) in the manufacture of the adhesive was found to be too hazardous. But it still is very much the same recalcitrant film it was. It needs a lot of heat, more so than in the past, to stretch around corners, cowls and wing tips. While I got good at covering with MoneyKote, almost as good a finish as one got with liquid finishes, I hated MoneyKote. Oracover showed me the true potential iron on films really had. I liked to use Solarfim unfortunately it wasn't very durable, the adhesive and polyester film would delaminate far too easily.

I know that Sig has this warning on their plans for the 1976 Cub to add diagonals to the wing if using iron on film coverings as opposed to doped finishes.

The wing on the Fazer is over built (designed).
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Cut it twice and it's still too short!
Konrad
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« Reply #5 on: April 14, 2018, 11:02:09 AM »

I don't like to see holes added to a wooden structure. The weight saving isn't worth the loss of strength. Wood is not a monolithic material. Wood has a very pronounce grain which need to be taken into account. Cutting holes into the plank often times disrupts the load paths resulting in the loads being place across the grain, resulting in a very weak structure. Lightening holes in some metals works well in that metal often doesn't have a prominent grain. (Yes, rolled and directional solidification metals do have a grain)

I like to see the use of light weight (lower density) wood. And/or a Warren truss type construction where the all the wood grain is aligned properly with the anticipated loads.
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flyerinokc
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« Reply #6 on: May 07, 2018, 10:05:03 AM »

I have used Monokote and Ultracote/Oracote in the past and prefer the shrink range of Ultracote. However the final surface is slightly different between the two with Monokote looking slightly more uniform. This could be a misconception on my part. I have several Fun Scale in the pipeline and they along with a couple of electric kits will receive ParkLite (light weight Ultracote) I considered MicroLite but while Solarfilm has a new owner there is no US distributor and you must order directly from the UK and pay higher shipping costs. I have a VK 1/6th DR.1 which will be covered with Natural Solartex. My yet to be completed Top Flite 182 will get Fiberglass cloth with epoxy resin or Eze-Cote aliphatic) resin followed by paint. I guess I'm the variety is the spice of life type.
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