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Author Topic: Painting Carbon D boxes and other matters  (Read 487 times)
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mace2
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« on: July 11, 2018, 10:28:46 AM »

 Question 1 Does anyone have a view about painting F1B wing D boxes prior to covering with Ikarex. I presume that any spray paint must to resistant to any adhesive used? Is this done to improve aesthetics or is there another reason.


Question 2 There also appears to be conflicting views about doping Ikarex after application. What is the concensus?


mace2
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BG
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« Reply #1 on: July 11, 2018, 11:11:54 AM »

Hi Mace,
here in Canada we just cover over the Dbox without painting first. I have seen other who have hit the wing with white spray paint first though. If I were doing this I would use something like Design Master floral spray for the white (it is stable, and very light). However, I typically don't bother. F1B are tools used to do 180 sec flights. They need to be visible and easy to ID in a flock of models and easy to find on the ground. For me this means black and white on the underside of the wings and fluorescent yellow tips and fin .... I also try to find a way to make it look different from other models so that the timer can pick it out when it is in lift with other models.

Dope on Icarex: we always hit the model with some sort of sealer from a spray can. Artists fixative works pretty well. Just a couple of light coats to seal the fabric. We don't fly without some sort of sealant on the icarex....usually .... I have flown naked (unsealed) models with no apparent trouble
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Tmat
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« Reply #2 on: July 11, 2018, 11:17:59 AM »

Mace,
I don't bother with paint on the Dbox. Imo, the only reason to do it would be to try and reduce the temperature that the black Dbox might reach in the hot sun. However, if the Dboxes were cured at a high temperature (most are cured at 90-110 C) then it is not necessary. If the Dbox was room temperature cured (such as home made Dboxes) then painting them would be a good idea.
I always dope my Icarex with thinned Nitrate dope either sprayed or brushed on. Just one coat seals the Icarex. You can fly without it, but in rain you can get some water coming through the fabric.

Tmat
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DerekMc
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« Reply #3 on: July 11, 2018, 12:51:58 PM »

I've seen several wings where the dbox isn't covered at all.  The icarex is glued to the last 1/4" or so of the dbox. The rest is left au natural.  Could be an attempt to save weight?
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Derek
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« Reply #4 on: July 11, 2018, 03:56:29 PM »

Certainly if it's a homemade D-box a spray with white paint is useful. If post-cured at a high temperature then maybe that's un-necessary, but a black or dark surface absorbs heat and you don't want any changes in the structure of your model. Many years ago, when fibreglass was a novelty, an RC aerobatic flyer told me that if he left a model with a black-painted fuselage out in the sun between flights he found he had to re-trim it in flight because the hot side of the fuselage had expanded  more than the shaded one, causing a fin deflection.
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Buster11
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« Reply #5 on: July 11, 2018, 04:03:01 PM »

Hmm, don't know what happened there.

Certainly if it's a homemade D-box a spray with white paint is useful. If post-cured at a high temperature then maybe that's un-necessary, but a black or dark surface absorbs heat and you don't want any changes in the structure of your model. Many years ago, when fibreglass was a novelty, an RC aerobatic flyer told me that if he left a model with a black-painted fuselage out in the sun between flights he found he had to re-trim it in flight because the hot side of the fuselage had expanded  more than the shaded one, causing a fin deflection.
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Tmat
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« Reply #6 on: July 16, 2018, 09:42:47 AM »

I've seen several wings where the dbox isn't covered at all.  The icarex is glued to the last 1/4" or so of the dbox. The rest is left au natural.  Could be an attempt to save weight?

Yes a weight savings and maybe slight drag reduction?

Tmat
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