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Author Topic: I'm going to build a DHC-3 Otter, because of a very generous Gift!  (Read 1914 times)
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Dan Snow
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« Reply #25 on: October 01, 2018, 09:03:27 AM »

Sometimes you just have to use a "few" pins to get things to hold still for a minute while you try to find the damn glue bottle that was right beside your elbow two freaking minutes ago!!  Grin

Finally got the fin done and off the board. will let it dry for a day before I cut the rudder off for access to get the stab in place.

Next up, start the fuselage.
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LASTWOODSMAN
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« Reply #26 on: October 01, 2018, 09:59:43 AM »

Hi Dan.  I am following your build all right!   Yes, I just mailed by order to Dave Cowell for the DHC-3 OTTER - looks like beautifully cut laser parts, and best of all  -   CLEAN BALSA  !!   ie - no laser cut parts numbers, or inked on parts numbers,  in/on the clean balsa.  So I am hoping you can show me how it flies right off of the table !   Grin   Wink

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Richard
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OH, I HAVE SLIPPED THE SURLY BONDS OF EARTH ... UP, UP THE LONG DELIRIOUS BURNING BLUE ... SUNWARD I'VE CLIMBED AND JOINED THE TUMBLING MIRTH OF SUN-SPLIT CLOUDS ...
Dan Snow
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« Reply #27 on: October 01, 2018, 05:01:18 PM »

I'm hoping it does fly well Richard. It is a challenging build for someone that hasn't built anything for 20 years, and nothing this delicate for at least 40-50 years. So let's say it is a challenging build for me.

The symmetrical airfoil fin wasn't as tricky as I feared. I asked Paul Bradley a question to clarify one step and took it slow and I believe it came out fine. I have the base frame for the fuselage sides done, it was a little different in that the top and center longerons are on top of the uprights instead of flush with them. I haven't figured out the best approach to start joining the fuselage sides to make sure they stay square and straight along the center-line as I can't really find a good flat section of either top or bottom to pin to the board.  I might make a frame that I can attach right angles to to hold the sides while I glue in the formers. Have to think about this one for a bit.
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Dan Snow
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« Reply #28 on: October 03, 2018, 05:30:19 PM »

Making a little more progress on the fuselage.  Tried unsuccessfully to solder the landing gear legs yesterday. Was getting pretty frustrated actually, and then DOH!!! Light bulb went off! I wasn't using any soldering flux. After a virtual smack in the head I went looking for my flux, and of course, since I hadn't soldered anything in who knows how long, I was unable to find any. Picked some up this morning, fired up my micro torch and in less than 5 minutes I had completed the landing gear!! Once I clean it up a bit and give it a shot of clear coat it'll be good to go.

Finally got all the formers except for the firewall installed. I need to get the stringers on soon as the formers are very vulnerable right now.

I added the gussets on the uprights supporting the gear legs. A teensy weight penalty, yes, but it gives me a little peace of mind that something more than a 1/16" square is carrying the load! Smiley
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OZPAF
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« Reply #29 on: October 04, 2018, 09:18:09 AM »

Dan I have found that on small models it is possible to make reasonably strong joints with cotton binding and CA as an alternative to soldering. I think I noticed this first on a build of one of Andrew Darby's models. It can be neat and also lighter than solder.
Also I last used common electrical solder with it's own flux on my last UC, over fuse wire binding(36"WS RC Piper Cub ) and it has been more than strong enough.
It will be a nice looking model.

John

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Dan Snow
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« Reply #30 on: October 05, 2018, 07:12:00 PM »

I did that on the tail wheel, the design of which gives me the willies!! The tail wheel is bent from 1/32" music wire, which is then poked through a 1/16" stringer and glued flat along the stringer.  So I cheated a bit. I made that short section from 1/16" x 1/8" and then wrapped a few turns of thread around it.

Anyway, I am rapidly approaching the time to cover and I have decided on a color scheme!!  It's a simple one, but when I saw I said to self. "That's the color scheme I want!!"
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Balsa Ace
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« Reply #31 on: October 05, 2018, 07:59:25 PM »

That's a sharp looking USN colour scheme,Dan.

Scott
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« Reply #32 on: October 06, 2018, 08:46:44 AM »

Thanks. I'm trying to find the other picture I came across that had the outer third of each wing panel red as well.
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DavidJP
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« Reply #33 on: October 06, 2018, 05:51:12 PM »

You need suitable wood for laminations but of course you will have released that.  I find that cracks and creates can be avoided if having soaked the timber as you have done  and applied the glue placing it against the former you ease it round the bends with a piece of suitable sized scrap balsa slightly thicker the the strips used for the laminations.  It is a case of pushing and pressing and sliding really - can't think of a better description. Basically the balsa spreads the load and keeps the laminations in contact with the former rather than they being allowed to crack and spring away as you bend them.  When you try it I think you will soon get the knack!
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« Reply #34 on: October 06, 2018, 08:21:38 PM »

That's a very good point David. I seem to remember a very old bit of advice to maintain tension on the strips while forming them around the form. Your approach would seem much better.

John
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« Reply #35 on: October 07, 2018, 08:59:08 AM »

Thank you John.  It was provoked by a technique you use in bookbinding to ease leather round the spine etc.
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Dan Snow
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« Reply #36 on: October 07, 2018, 06:58:48 PM »

Worked on some of the scale bits yesterday and today. Exhaust fairings, cowl intake duct, landing gear attachment fairings. Gave them a coat of white so they don't stick out like the proverbial sore thumb.  Got the wheels sanded and painted and glued the hub in place.

Then I had an "Aw Krap!" moment. Very minor in the long run, but it does make a fair bit of extra work for me.  My original plan was to cover the fuselage and then glue the cowl block on.  But instead, after sanding the fuselage to get it ready for covering, I went and glued the cowl on!  Didn't realize it until after the glue was dried.  I figure if I wrap a layer of painters tape around the cowl, I can cover right up to it, and trim the covering back with a razor
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Dan Snow
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« Reply #37 on: October 08, 2018, 05:52:13 PM »

Starting the covering. Just over an hour to get this much done.
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Dan Snow
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« Reply #38 on: October 09, 2018, 12:29:28 PM »

Finished the covering on the fuselage this morning!
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Dan Snow
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« Reply #39 on: October 09, 2018, 04:28:40 PM »

Spent about 3 hours in total on the fuselage today. Finished and shrunk the covering, then spent some time adding the scale bits to it. I still need to tape the door outlines and install the windshield and then it'll be ready for the wings and tail feathers.

Covering the fuselage I discovered why, now that I'm at the age of having sometimers, that if I need to do things in a certain order I need to write a list. My plan was to glue the clear plastic for the side windows to the inside of the fuselage window panels before adding the panels to the fuselage frame. But if I did that I thought, it would make it very, very difficult to trim the tissue away from the window openings. So I revised the plan to cut the plastic into small enough pieces that I could glue them to the backside between the fuselage uprights, and glue them in after I had covered the sides and trimmed to openings, but BEFORE i covered the top!  Great plan, right?  Well, it was, until I forgot the windows until AFTER I had covered the top, and bottom, and every side, of the fuselage! ARGH!

Oh well, my passengers will enjoy fresh air during their flights!!
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PaulBrad
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« Reply #40 on: October 10, 2018, 10:55:18 PM »

Looking good Dan.

When I built my model from that plan I did install the side window plastic before covering the fuselage. Before covering I applied a thin coat of rubber cement to the plastic. The side tissue panels were then applied while the rubber cement was still wet. The rubber cement made sure the tissue was adhered to the plastic and provided a protective layer. After water shrinking the tissue I applied several thin coats of clear dope. This is where the protective quality of the rubber cement came into action. Once the dope had dried, I carefully cut each window panel using a fresh knife blade. When each panel was cut, the tissue was teased up at one edge with the tip of my knife. The tissue pulled away from the plastic very neatly. The result was nicely framed windows with no edges.

Paul Bradley
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Dan Snow
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« Reply #41 on: October 11, 2018, 07:54:35 AM »

Thanks Paul. Next challenge is the markings. I was going to try printing them on tissue but my printer picked now to run out of ink so that'll have to wait until I get some more.


Wings are on, as are tail feathers, just need to install the wing struts, which I have to remake as the first once mysteriously came out 5/" too short. I measured them several times holding the wing in place, but after gluing the wings in place discovered the shortage. Hmmmm, the measure twice cut once doesn't seem to work if everything isn't in the right place!!  Cheesy
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« Reply #42 on: October 11, 2018, 05:36:57 PM »

Top Notch work,Dan.

Scott
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« Reply #43 on: October 11, 2018, 06:25:11 PM »

Well, here it is, minus only the US NAVY markings. Registration number 424.  As soon as I get our printer running again I'll see if I can get tissue printing to work.

Trying something new for me on this model.Since I had to separate the rudder and fin to install the stab, I re-attached the rudder using two soft .04" wires. That way I can quickly make adjustments if needed. Then once it's set i can put a dab or two of silicone to held the setting.

Any recommendations for a starting motor? The only rubber I currently have is 3/32" Tan FAI
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« Reply #44 on: October 11, 2018, 06:50:36 PM »

Nice job Dan! Gotta love that color scheme. It really stands out. Hope
you had some fun building it.  Looking forward to your flight reports soon.

Skyraider
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« Reply #45 on: October 11, 2018, 06:52:29 PM »

That has turned out well Dan.

John
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« Reply #46 on: October 11, 2018, 08:06:17 PM »

Very nice Dan, look forward to hearing how it flies.

Mike
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« Reply #47 on: October 11, 2018, 09:10:00 PM »

 My humble suggestion for motor size is based on the prop diameter. An 8" Peck prop needs 4-6 strands of 1/8th rubber (1/2" to 3/4" of combined rubber strand width). For a 7" Peck prop, a motor from 2-4 strands of 1/8th rubber (1/4" to 1/2" of combined rubber width). I can't think of anything other than multiples of 1/8th as 5th grade math can make me look like an idiot. Whatever number of strands of 3/32 reaches those parameters would work. Other guys, I am sure, have different rules of thumb. Good luck in any case.....great looking flyer.
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Dan Snow
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« Reply #48 on: October 27, 2018, 04:04:36 PM »

Good news! The Otter is completely finished, and I have made a couple of short test glides in the back yard. First one showed slight tail heavy, second was a bit better and third was good. All were straight ahead no sign of turning. I put in 30-40 winds and got a pronounced left turn. Not really a diving turn, but a very definite turn. Need a lot more room than my back yard to go further, plus I need to figure out how to keep the ring on my motor from slipping off the hook on the prop shaft.
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« Reply #49 on: October 27, 2018, 04:12:02 PM »

She's a beauty. Smiley
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