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Author Topic: Martin Baker MB-5  (Read 1480 times)
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billdennis747
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« Reply #25 on: November 02, 2018, 10:24:08 AM »

Richard, my question would be how do you draw them around curves?
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Rudder flutter
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« Reply #26 on: November 02, 2018, 10:54:44 AM »

Richard, my question would be how do you draw them around curves?

I use a straight perspex rule, and draw the line in short sections. Sounds unlikely I know, but it does work OK. Its easier than you may think to line up the rules around the curve, plus, drawing in short stages gives you a chance to breath! I find the longer lines trickier, the mind starts to wander and there is more opportunity to tremble or sneeze half way down the line.
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Richard Crossley
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« Reply #27 on: November 02, 2018, 11:39:30 AM »

I feared you'd say something like that! I envisaged some sort of flexible bevelled straight edge
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john bowerman
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« Reply #28 on: November 02, 2018, 03:22:57 PM »

Richard
Apologies if this a daft question but what type of foam are you using. I assume it is not standard foam from say Wickes or the likes
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F F modeller
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« Reply #29 on: November 02, 2018, 04:38:19 PM »

I could just about handle this if you were also enjoying retirement .... how do you do it?!  Smiley
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strat-o
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« Reply #30 on: November 02, 2018, 05:28:41 PM »

John-- In the US the foam is available at builder's supply stores.  I believe it is sold for flooring insulation.  It is frequently sold in colors like light pink or light blue.  It does not have the beaded texture common in a lot of foams which is nice because it is resistant to pieces chipping away and allows you to sand it pretty much however you like. It is an open-cell polystyrene foam. --Marlin
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Rudder flutter
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« Reply #31 on: November 02, 2018, 06:21:01 PM »

Richard
Apologies if this a daft question but what type of foam are you using. I assume it is not standard foam from say Wickes or the likes


Not a daft question John. As Strat-O says, the best source is from building suppliers. Floormate 200 is sold in the UK by Dow. Sheffield insulation stock it, amongst others. Its pale blue, comes in large 25mm thick sheets. My white foam is identical in texture, but I inherited it so not sure where you can get it. It came in a thick block, and I think its used by architectural model makers. Apparently there is a shop that sells it in London, can't remember where though!
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Richard Crossley
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« Reply #32 on: November 02, 2018, 06:23:27 PM »

I could just about handle this if you were also enjoying retirement .... how do you do it?!  Smiley

Good question Russ - I'm sure I'll get told off sooner or later, those shelves still aren't up.
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Richard Crossley
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« Reply #33 on: November 03, 2018, 06:23:41 AM »

Richard, re the rOtring pen ink; is it water resistant like Sharpie ink? Also, if you mess up, will it come off with thinners?

(I had a couple of rOtrings about thirty years ago which were good fun to draw with, but I seem to remember it was a bit too easy to ruin the points in my clumsy hand.)
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Ausmodeller
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« Reply #34 on: November 03, 2018, 07:17:12 AM »

My memories of rotring pens was that they required a certain amount of pressure to operate and I could never get them to work on a tissue finish without poking holes through to covering. I would have thought foam would be even softer but it obviously works for you.
Gary
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« Reply #35 on: November 03, 2018, 07:43:23 AM »

Richard, re the rOtring pen ink; is it water resistant like Sharpie ink? Also, if you mess up, will it come off with thinners?

(I had a couple of rOtrings about thirty years ago which were good fun to draw with, but I seem to remember it was a bit too easy to ruin the points in my clumsy hand.)

Hi Pete.
The ink is water based, but is permanent when dry. It may wipe of with white spirit when dry though. Yes, these pens are delicate, if you drop it on the nip, you'll need a new one. I knackered plenty when I was at art school! I love them though. I find the smallest size nibs are super for those fine panel lines, and really help to ad texture. A few more pics attached here of other models finished with them
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Re: Martin Baker MB-5
Re: Martin Baker MB-5
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Richard Crossley
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« Reply #36 on: November 03, 2018, 07:51:11 AM »

My memories of rotring pens was that they required a certain amount of pressure to operate and I could never get them to work on a tissue finish without poking holes through to covering. I would have thought foam would be even softer but it obviously works for you.
Gary

I've not had a problem poking holes through tissue Gary. If you leave the lids off they can start to dry out, and then then can become temperamental, and require more pressure. I tend to keep the lids on most of the time. There is a nice 'Students set' of pens available, which has 3 sizes I think. It comes with nifty 'pen docks', which allow you to have the pen ready for action, but lidless. You can sometimes pic these up on eBay cheaper than std price. The pens work fine on tissue for me, the only weight needed to operate them is the weight of the pen itself, Fine also on gloss and matt enamel/acrylic, but there are one or 2 auto gloss paints they don't like.
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Richard Crossley
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« Reply #37 on: November 03, 2018, 02:12:20 PM »

Thanks for the heads-up on Rotring pens, Richard, and super looking MB-5!

Will you have a chance to trim it before Nijmegen?

Jon
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« Reply #38 on: November 03, 2018, 02:46:44 PM »

Richard
Thanks for the info, never tried this so maybe another adventure looms
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« Reply #39 on: November 03, 2018, 02:56:07 PM »

Thanks for the heads-up on Rotring pens, Richard, and super looking MB-5!

Will you have a chance to trim it before Nijmegen?

Jon

Hi Jon - Unfortunately no. We do have quite a bit of trimming time at Nijmegen though, so if its going to go, then I should have enough time. I just flew it down the garden, and it looks really nice, and seems to want to go. The good news is that it appears to balance 'off the board', with no nose weight - that doesn't happen often! If we get some calm, I'll try it some more. Look forward to seeing you there!
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Richard Crossley
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« Reply #40 on: November 04, 2018, 03:59:26 AM »

Phew, the MB-5 is now finished, and ready in time to fly at Nijmegen - big relief!
Because I didn't have much time, I had to simplify some aspects- namely the markings. The insignia have rather thin outlines, and I didn't fancy spraying these. I ended up printing out the markings on very thin (45 gsm) paper on my laser printer, and then applying these directly to the model with spray glue. Some matt varnish was applied to kill the shine of the paper. This saved me a lot of time, and although if you look close you can see the edge of the paper, I'm happy with them. This system would be particularly good on larger models, where the thickness of paper would not notice at all.

All up weight with a rubber motor is 4.3 grams. Initial trimming flights look good, and no ballast was needed at all in the nose due to the ideal proportions (long nose). The motor straddles the estimated balance point 50/50, meaning that I should not need additional noseweight if I put in a larger motor.
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Re: Martin Baker MB-5
Re: Martin Baker MB-5
Re: Martin Baker MB-5
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Richard Crossley
billdennis747
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« Reply #41 on: November 04, 2018, 04:42:31 AM »

I'm interested in the prop, Richard: it seems to have huge pitch. What's the thinking behind that - is it to prolong the run?
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« Reply #42 on: November 04, 2018, 05:01:01 AM »

I'm interested in the prop, Richard: it seems to have huge pitch. What's the thinking behind that - is it to prolong the run?

It is actually a commercial prop Bill, an Ikara Butterly item. I have re-bladed it though and added a spinner. Blade angle is set, and is quite steep, looks to be about 45 degrees. But yes, a slow unwind is essential for duration.
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Richard Crossley
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« Reply #43 on: November 05, 2018, 07:46:21 AM »

LOVELY!!!!  Shocked Shocked Shocked
Question: Is it the camera, or have no dihedral at all? Huh
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« Reply #44 on: November 05, 2018, 09:01:16 AM »

LOVELY!!!!  Shocked Shocked Shocked
Question: Is it the camera, or have no dihedral at all? Huh

Thanks yagua - all is OK, we have dihedral!
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Richard Crossley
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« Reply #45 on: November 05, 2018, 10:03:51 AM »

How do you deal with all the static electricity while sanding the foam?
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« Reply #46 on: November 05, 2018, 04:18:27 PM »

How do you deal with all the static electricity while sanding the foam?

I don't really seem to get any problems whilst building/sanding, I find I need to take care when painting though, as smoothing the paint out with fine paper or tissue before final coat can charge things up. I normally leave it for 10 minutes and the charge goes.
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Richard Crossley
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« Reply #47 on: November 05, 2018, 07:24:51 PM »

Masterful Richard! Good luck with it.

John
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