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Author Topic: Commuter airliner (Dash 8 Q400) build  (Read 1087 times)
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Andyjbj
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« on: February 09, 2019, 02:53:16 PM »

I'm starting on a peanut Dash 8 Q400, a big long airplane. I'm going to kit 7––2 to build and to have 5 kits left over. One build will be twin, one single with a propeller at the front of that lovely long fuselage. This is an elegant and comfortable airplane, nothing like the -100's, which are also fun in their own way. Polyhedral high wing, but not a lot of area in those wings.

This picture shows 7 turned nose blocks and some of the 14 blanks for spinners, which I will also turn on a dremel. By the way, how do you control the horrendous dust during that process?
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Commuter airliner (Dash 8 Q400) build
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TheLurker
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« Reply #1 on: February 09, 2019, 03:57:35 PM »

Now that's novel.  Don't often see commercial stuff modelled.  Looking forward to this.  Good luck.
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Andyjbj
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« Reply #2 on: February 18, 2019, 03:05:25 AM »

Here's the plan and some sticks.
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Re: Commuter airliner (Dash 8 Q400) build
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Andyjbj
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« Reply #3 on: February 18, 2019, 03:06:23 AM »

Does anyone else cut ribs this way?
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jose12
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« Reply #4 on: February 18, 2019, 09:26:44 AM »

I do not use that system but I would appreciate it if you explain it carefully because what I see seems very interesting and practical. Thanks Andy
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Glenn (gravitywell) Reach
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« Reply #5 on: February 18, 2019, 07:36:23 PM »

Ditto.  I would love an explanation of what you have done there with the stripper.
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Glenn Reach
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Crabby
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« Reply #6 on: February 18, 2019, 08:08:32 PM »

Yes I have done them that way, taught to me by Thee Olde Man himself. I don't do it often but yes I have done them that way.
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MKelly
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« Reply #7 on: February 18, 2019, 09:05:34 PM »

I would love an explanation of what you have done there with the stripper.


Woah!  Had a little flashback for a minute there...
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lincoln
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« Reply #8 on: February 18, 2019, 10:21:46 PM »

Last time I turned something like that, I did it outside on the hub of an electric fan. Was probably good for the lawn.
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Andyjbj
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« Reply #9 on: February 19, 2019, 09:43:42 AM »

I'll try to explain briefly; I'll give more detail if the below doesn't make sense.

1. Determine approx length of ribs
2. Cut a rectangle of balsa with the right rib length along the grain
3. Wet
4. Tape across a cylinder so the rectangle curves along the dimension of the grain
5. Remove the next day
6. Shove through a balsa stripper set to rib width along the grain
7. Ribs!
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RolandD6
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« Reply #10 on: February 19, 2019, 02:52:25 PM »

Does anyone else cut ribs this way?

I am curious about the purpose of the two spring loaded balsa flaps and the yellow flat surface fixed(?) to the underside of the stripper. Are they associated with stripping ribs as shown in the photo or are they for some other devious purpose?

Paul

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Andyjbj
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« Reply #11 on: February 20, 2019, 01:06:24 AM »

Those are just mods to the Master Airscrew stripper to make it function like the Jim Jones (?), basically holding the balsa in place as it gets pushed through.
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OZPAF
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« Reply #12 on: February 20, 2019, 01:32:26 AM »

I've also mass produced ribs for around 10 Hanger Rats using a similar process. My rib blank was 2 laminations of 0.8 and the ribs were also 0.8 wide. The laminations were moulded with steam over a curved form hot wire cut to the air foil shape and glued together by heat activated PVA as a second operation. The reason for laminating them was to help them hold their shape and make them a bit stronger.
A fast way to make 300 sliced ribs. Smiley
I picked up the idea from John Barker.
Interesting build you have started here.
John
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Andyjbj
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« Reply #13 on: February 23, 2019, 08:56:43 AM »

Thanks, sounds fancier than my process……especially the "heat activated PVA"?
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OZPAF
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« Reply #14 on: February 23, 2019, 07:49:00 PM »

Quote
especially the "heat activated PVA"?
It's an old trick. You apply the PVA to both surfaces being glued and let it dry. The PVA should be full strength and not diluted.
Then place parts together or in my case back on the form and then apply heat with a clothes iron. My laminations were held on the form with strips of cotton material and I use a steam setting on the iron.
It works well as long as you use enough heat.

happy building

John
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Andyjbj
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« Reply #15 on: March 03, 2019, 01:21:32 AM »

Sounds great, thanks for the explanation! I assume PVA is the usual "white glue," which I am also building this one with.

So I tried something a bit unusual for this construction: very thin longerons and more substantial stringers. Not sure how that will work out strength and weight wise, but anyway that's the choice I made here.
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Re: Commuter airliner (Dash 8 Q400) build
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OZPAF
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« Reply #16 on: March 03, 2019, 06:28:33 PM »

Yes any good PVA should work.
Happy building

John
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Andyjbj
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« Reply #17 on: March 07, 2019, 12:49:48 PM »

Thanks.
The fuselage turned out waaay more complex than I had in mind……oops.
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Andyjbj
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« Reply #18 on: March 11, 2019, 05:24:30 AM »

The wing and nacelle, with blocks ready for carving. Not possible to make a stick and tissue airliner without carving.
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Andyjbj
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« Reply #19 on: March 11, 2019, 06:06:29 AM »

Wing detail: flat ribs and sliced ribs.
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bjrn
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« Reply #20 on: March 11, 2019, 06:16:51 AM »

Mike Stuart modeled a Dash 8 some time ago.  Page on his website is here:  http://www.ffscale.co.uk/page2h.htm
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malc
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« Reply #21 on: March 11, 2019, 09:10:13 AM »

Nice build, I like the way you have staggered the top and bottom wing ribs.

I built one from the Chris Starleaf plan after seeing Mike Stuarts, flew really well, there is a video on youtube somewhere of its second flight.  The build log was on SFA, so long gone now.

Malc.
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Andyjbj
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« Reply #22 on: March 13, 2019, 03:43:30 PM »

Thanks guys. I also have the Starleaf plan, I consider it an absolute FF classic, just too big for me, but I built it (with many simplifications) at half size.
So the funny thing about the ribs here is they are staggered in the back but not the front, where they are stacked, so I use a 2x1mm leading edge and 1x1mm trailing. Makes a light wing with a good airfoil and little sanding. But, the next edition will be all 1.5mm square.

A little update, it's all framed up, and without any covering or power systems, bearings/hooks etc, just the wood frame, total weight was 2.00 grams. Gives me hope I can finish below 4.
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Andyjbj
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« Reply #23 on: March 18, 2019, 12:18:08 PM »

OK, so here's the second prototype next to the first. Now I used a simpler design with 1.5mm rather than 1mm square (similar to 1/16 and 1/20).
The kits will probably have the larger wood size.
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Andyjbj
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« Reply #24 on: March 18, 2019, 12:18:57 PM »

And here's some detail of the earlier, more complex one: Wing, nacelle, prop.
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