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Author Topic: Chambermaid Cookup  (Read 14625 times)
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Bredehoft
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« Reply #275 on: June 24, 2017, 09:14:14 PM »

I'd go with at least two stringers on the side.

if you go with two, just divide the space by 3.  If you go with three stringers, divide the space by 4.

--george
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Flyguy
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« Reply #276 on: June 24, 2017, 10:18:03 PM »

Thanks George, with your vote of confidence I can move forward on the stringers! I was thinking two, but maybe three, I'll have to look at it more closely. By the way, your chambermaid is really nice, I also have both the peanut and the dime scale kits, its addicting.
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« Reply #277 on: June 26, 2017, 03:27:53 PM »

It would be helpful to know a little more about people's flying experience with the 22" EB Chambermaid; the main thing I'm interested in is, if weight has to be added, does it tend to be in the nose or in the rear? This info would really help while I'm building.
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« Reply #278 on: July 05, 2017, 07:55:50 PM »

I'd go with at least two stringers on the side.

if you go with two, just divide the space by 3.  If you go with three stringers, divide the space by 4.

--george

Thanks George, I ended up going with 3 stringers, light ones to help keep the weight down - one above the EB spar, and 2 below, that way I could approximately equally space them, photo attached. Looking at the real plane pictures posted earlier, the stringers are equally spaced so I wanted to keep that aspect. Nice part is that I thought the fuselage felt a little too twisty (for high torque) - you can see I already had added in two extra cross braces up front - now it feels nice and stiff!

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tubegeek
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« Reply #279 on: February 11, 2018, 08:17:14 PM »

<skidding in like Kramer on Seinfeld> Am I too late?

This is from Bernard Guest's excellent plan, at its original scale, so wing span will be 16".

The pics are a mock-up - each assembly is built and covered but nothing has been glued together. I'm studying the photos in this thread to see what exactly I need to do to attach the wings.

One thing I think I am seeing in many photos: no one is putting the wing  LE up at a small incidence angle as the plans call for. Is the prevailing practice to put the wing in level and then tip the stab down a touch? I'm trying to get the wing up  as the plan indicates.

I've glued the wings together with a cross brace that sets the dihedral and makes the two wings into one. I actually built the wings a little sloppily so they do not have quite the same chord at the root, I have the two TEs matching and the two LEs are out by about 1/4" from each other. The 3rd photo shows what I have propping up the wing root ribs a bit - I'll attach the wing and then trim the excess off of the shim crosspiece. I plan on putting a curved former profile over the  dihedral crossbrace and running stringers over the formers and the wing. I'm looking at the curved airfoil-shaped stringers on other folks' builds and trying to figure out how to do them.

I don't really understand what the plan is showing with the 1/16 strip next to the root rib: is this on the bottom or does it receive the shaped stringers?

 I only have 1 side stringer per side and no bottom stringers. Tissue is Michael's domestic, it has two coats of butyrate dope over all
 surfaces. I'm going for quick & dirty dimer on this one since by all accounts I'm never going to see it again after I get it trimmed correctly!

Thanks for the help!

Better late than never, right?



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BG
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« Reply #280 on: February 11, 2018, 08:48:47 PM »

The stringers for the forward turtle deck are run to merge with the top of the root ribs (or you can bend em slightly so that they adhere to the inside of the root rib). Similarly the stringers aft of the wing emerge from the inside of the root rib and go aft. No heavy bending required.

THe 1/16 doubler strip goes alongside the bottom of the root rib.

Hope this helps
Bernard

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« Reply #281 on: February 11, 2018, 11:14:42 PM »

The stringers for the forward turtle deck are run to merge with the top of the root ribs (or you can bend em slightly so that they adhere to the inside of the root rib). Similarly the stringers aft of the wing emerge from the inside of the root rib and go aft. No heavy bending required.

THe 1/16 doubler strip goes alongside the bottom of the root rib.

Hope this helps
Bernard



Thank you sir - it does, for sure. So it's the 1/16th strip that sits on top of the longerons (or on top of the incidence shim if one is building exactly to the plan) ? And that gets the root ribs shifted outboard enough for the stringers to get by.... Got it.

Mine is mis-built enough that I am going to have the wings set slightly too far apart, I think. Unless I bite the bullet and re-do the crosspieces between the wings. I'm not too concerned - I'm trying to keep with the Dimer spirit of "build it, fly it, build another one."

I love the internet. One time I was on a woodworking message board and somebody asked a question about a stain product. Within a few hours, the chemist who formulated the stain was answering his question. This feels kind of like that. Thank you for making that plan, I look forward to flying this cool plane soon.
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« Reply #282 on: February 13, 2018, 03:56:06 PM »

OK, well, here's how it looks assembled. It's nearly finished except for finish (I want to put a coat of white on the nose and perhaps something opaque on the prop which has lots of sanding sealer visible. My first carved prop!)

It's not perfectly symmetrical but it at least makes it to the couch from across the room. Thanks Bernard for the info and support!
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BG
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« Reply #283 on: May 06, 2018, 11:24:36 AM »

Hi All,
I am working on the prototype for my Chambermaid kit. I have built the structure and identified several small problems with fit and alignment that I am correcting in my laser files. In the photos you see the initial assembly for the fuselage. Somewhat unique in my Cmaid rendition is the use of a tail former which aligns the fuselage sides, provides slots for the side stringers and holds the upright to which the aft turtle deck stringers attach (hope you can see all the in the photo).
The pictures that follow show the component parts including the Vac formed spinner, cockpit canopy, and cowl blisters. The stab is designed as a two part full flying DT stab that assembles to the fuselage using 1 mm carbon rods. The stab structure is quite stiff so I am not worried about warps etc.
The stab is built on the board with the centre section that eventually installs into the fuselage (you can see the stab centre section installed in the aft fuselage). The idea is to build it all together so that everything is perfectly aligned. I made sure to glue the the carbon joiner tubes in with THICK CA (to prevent running and gluing everything together permanently) while the stab panels and centre sections were all on the board and aligned with joiners in place to ensure that it was all properly aligned and that I would have no issue when the centre section was glued into the fuselage. It all worked perfectly. You can see the stab partially installed with carbon rod protruding and the final assembly ... everything pretty flush and neat.
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BG
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« Reply #284 on: May 06, 2018, 12:26:08 PM »

The rest of the structure is pretty conventional. First photo of of the wings (6.8g) .... quite simple (stab panels are 2.9g together BTW). I am contemplating hollowing the wing ribs to get the wing down to ~5g (not sure it is worth it though?). The wings seat on a couple of wing mount ramps that are glued to the fuselage top. These ramps set the wing position and incidence. They have to be beveled on their lower edges so that they can be tiled and aligned with the turtledeck formers. The way this model is designed is a bit of a departure from my usual practice. The wing is designed to be permanently glued to the fuselage. I usually prefer a system that allows disassembly and storage. I guess I got lazy Roll Eyes.
The fuselage is pretty conventional otherwise. It is unique relative to the previous renditions of the Cmaid in that it has the correct number and position of the side stringers and bottom stringers and the rear fuselage is modelled based on photo evidence etc. (so it is pretty scale). The down side of my design (which was based on the old Henn plan, which is known to be a great flyer) is that it deviates from the two 3 views that I have (the Hirsch and Mendenhall drawings). In both cases the published 3 view has a taller and longer nose than my drawing. I wish I had don my due diligence and double checked the 3 view agreement with the Henn plan first (but I didn't Undecided ... on the bright side ... not checking prevented me from discovering the problem and kept me in the game). Anyway the model has a shorter nose (it is still long but not as long or as tall as the drawings suggest it should be. All this makes me wonder what Bill Henn was up to. Was his 3 view different? I am not aware of an alternative to those already mentioned (anyone else?). Or was Bill being sly and reducing the length and height of the nose to keep the weight down and prevent the need for tail weight?
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BG
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« Reply #285 on: May 06, 2018, 12:31:24 PM »

Finally some mockup shots of the semi complete structure. The top stringers will come when the wing is covered and glued into the fuselage. I may add additional top stringers to prevent starved horse on the turtle deck .... I will make this decision when I have the first set of stringers installed.

In the last two photos you see the model with the Stab in a tilted position. When the model is complete the stab tilt will be actuated by an elastic pseudo strut that pulls the stab up when the DT line is released.  I will post photos of this mechanism when I have completed the model.

hope you all enjoy the show. comments and critiques are welcome as always.

BG
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LASTWOODSMAN
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« Reply #286 on: May 06, 2018, 02:15:58 PM »

NEATO DESIGN BG !!  What is the wingspan and wing area?

LASTWOODSMAN
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« Reply #287 on: May 06, 2018, 02:53:55 PM »

Wingspan is 24 inches. Area is 74 square inches (not including wing area masked by fuselage).

BG
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« Reply #288 on: May 07, 2018, 02:36:09 PM »

BG...very nice indeed!  I look forward to the dethermalizer info...
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BG
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« Reply #289 on: May 07, 2018, 06:49:46 PM »

Hi All,
just spent acouple of hours figuring out my tissue print routine. Here is a shot of the Cmaid tissue ready for Design master white spray and then the covering can start.

BG
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« Reply #290 on: May 07, 2018, 09:46:37 PM »

response mainly to #204.
Some years back, (on Hippocket) I did a 'build' on a 'Chambermaid' and the curving down of the top of the fuselage at the nose end was mentioned quite a lot around that time. I think it was concluded that the nose block was lowered as far as possible to give the rubber clearance under the wing. I based my plan on Bill's with quite a lot of change (e.g. a tip-tail D/T). What always puzzled me was the semi-cicular shape of the fuselage bottom. I could not find a single picture to shew this and built mine with a flat bottom.
John
 
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Bredehoft
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« Reply #291 on: May 07, 2018, 10:22:27 PM »

I think it is pretty well accepted that the underside was not rounded.  Here is a photo showing a rather rectangular cross section:

http://volareproducts.com/wp-content/grand-media/image/Chambers_R-1.jpg

--george
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« Reply #292 on: May 07, 2018, 10:26:50 PM »

Thanks George, never saw that one before.
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« Reply #293 on: May 09, 2018, 12:23:01 AM »

Made some progress. Mostly covered .. just top deck remaining and then fitting the canopy and other fiddle bits. Also have to make the prop.
B
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« Reply #294 on: May 11, 2018, 06:11:22 PM »

Hi All,
Getting close now. Basically ready for rubber (50g as is) .... I will probably test fly in her current state and then add the final details (canopy, blisters and exhaust stacks, and timer) once I have gotten some good early morning flights out of her. In the last two pics you can see the DT setup. I am using an elastic in place of the upper stab brace to pull the stab up. I have thread standing in for the lower stab brace ... this tread is attached to the DT line which pulls the stab down into flight position. when the timer releases the DT line the upper elastic stab "strut" pulls the stab up.

In her current state the CG is too far back so I will likely have a more forward rear motor peg than initially planned (so I can avoid adding nose weight). In the kit I am lightening the empennage components somewhat and promising a more forward rear motor peg option.

Also ran into a starved horse issue for the nose top stringers. Going to switch the kit stringers to 1/16x 3/32 to make it a bit  stronger. Not also that the spinner is slight to big for the nose .... the spinner is actually correct. The nose block front radius is a tad small on mine (I corrected this for the kit).

I think that is all I have to report thus far. Will capture some video of the first flights when I have a chance.

BG
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Don McLellan
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« Reply #295 on: May 12, 2018, 12:17:02 PM »

Beautiful model BG.  Looking forward to the video, although know it will be a great flyer.

Don
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« Reply #296 on: May 13, 2018, 10:43:36 AM »

BG great looking C'Maid! I really like yellow on this thing. Checking out your "starved horse" issue I am looking at the pics in response #293, is it me or do I actually see a bit of a dip between formers#2 and #3? Also which way are you running the grain there? A great effort indeed! Schnellwilli would approve.
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« Reply #297 on: May 13, 2018, 06:49:19 PM »

Thank Guys,
Carbby, there is no dip between formers 2 nd 3. You are seeing the curve in the first stringer caused by the need for it to curve over the wing spar. The formers are built up out of two pieces so the grain runs diagonal .... almost parallel to the former top edge. I think the stringers need to be deeper and of slightly stiffer stock. I was in a rush and just grabbed what ever I had on hand. A careful builder will select light stiff stock for the nose stringers.  Wink
BG


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« Reply #298 on: May 13, 2018, 10:31:39 PM »

I knew it all the time! Grin Grin Roll Eyes
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« Reply #299 on: May 14, 2018, 05:16:59 AM »

BG, What I meant by grain was the tissue, not the balsa.  Grin  Roll Eyes Grin
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