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Author Topic: Chambermaid Cookup  (Read 11332 times)
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Bredehoft
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« Reply #275 on: June 24, 2017, 09:14:14 PM »

I'd go with at least two stringers on the side.

if you go with two, just divide the space by 3.  If you go with three stringers, divide the space by 4.

--george
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Flyguy
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« Reply #276 on: June 24, 2017, 10:18:03 PM »

Thanks George, with your vote of confidence I can move forward on the stringers! I was thinking two, but maybe three, I'll have to look at it more closely. By the way, your chambermaid is really nice, I also have both the peanut and the dime scale kits, its addicting.
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« Reply #277 on: June 26, 2017, 03:27:53 PM »

It would be helpful to know a little more about people's flying experience with the 22" EB Chambermaid; the main thing I'm interested in is, if weight has to be added, does it tend to be in the nose or in the rear? This info would really help while I'm building.
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« Reply #278 on: July 05, 2017, 07:55:50 PM »

I'd go with at least two stringers on the side.

if you go with two, just divide the space by 3.  If you go with three stringers, divide the space by 4.

--george

Thanks George, I ended up going with 3 stringers, light ones to help keep the weight down - one above the EB spar, and 2 below, that way I could approximately equally space them, photo attached. Looking at the real plane pictures posted earlier, the stringers are equally spaced so I wanted to keep that aspect. Nice part is that I thought the fuselage felt a little too twisty (for high torque) - you can see I already had added in two extra cross braces up front - now it feels nice and stiff!

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Re: Chambermaid Cookup
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tubegeek
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« Reply #279 on: February 11, 2018, 08:17:14 PM »

<skidding in like Kramer on Seinfeld> Am I too late?

This is from Bernard Guest's excellent plan, at its original scale, so wing span will be 16".

The pics are a mock-up - each assembly is built and covered but nothing has been glued together. I'm studying the photos in this thread to see what exactly I need to do to attach the wings.

One thing I think I am seeing in many photos: no one is putting the wing  LE up at a small incidence angle as the plans call for. Is the prevailing practice to put the wing in level and then tip the stab down a touch? I'm trying to get the wing up  as the plan indicates.

I've glued the wings together with a cross brace that sets the dihedral and makes the two wings into one. I actually built the wings a little sloppily so they do not have quite the same chord at the root, I have the two TEs matching and the two LEs are out by about 1/4" from each other. The 3rd photo shows what I have propping up the wing root ribs a bit - I'll attach the wing and then trim the excess off of the shim crosspiece. I plan on putting a curved former profile over the  dihedral crossbrace and running stringers over the formers and the wing. I'm looking at the curved airfoil-shaped stringers on other folks' builds and trying to figure out how to do them.

I don't really understand what the plan is showing with the 1/16 strip next to the root rib: is this on the bottom or does it receive the shaped stringers?

 I only have 1 side stringer per side and no bottom stringers. Tissue is Michael's domestic, it has two coats of butyrate dope over all
 surfaces. I'm going for quick & dirty dimer on this one since by all accounts I'm never going to see it again after I get it trimmed correctly!

Thanks for the help!

Better late than never, right?



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Re: Chambermaid Cookup
Re: Chambermaid Cookup
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BG
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« Reply #280 on: February 11, 2018, 08:48:47 PM »

The stringers for the forward turtle deck are run to merge with the top of the root ribs (or you can bend em slightly so that they adhere to the inside of the root rib). Similarly the stringers aft of the wing emerge from the inside of the root rib and go aft. No heavy bending required.

THe 1/16 doubler strip goes alongside the bottom of the root rib.

Hope this helps
Bernard

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tubegeek
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« Reply #281 on: February 11, 2018, 11:14:42 PM »

The stringers for the forward turtle deck are run to merge with the top of the root ribs (or you can bend em slightly so that they adhere to the inside of the root rib). Similarly the stringers aft of the wing emerge from the inside of the root rib and go aft. No heavy bending required.

THe 1/16 doubler strip goes alongside the bottom of the root rib.

Hope this helps
Bernard



Thank you sir - it does, for sure. So it's the 1/16th strip that sits on top of the longerons (or on top of the incidence shim if one is building exactly to the plan) ? And that gets the root ribs shifted outboard enough for the stringers to get by.... Got it.

Mine is mis-built enough that I am going to have the wings set slightly too far apart, I think. Unless I bite the bullet and re-do the crosspieces between the wings. I'm not too concerned - I'm trying to keep with the Dimer spirit of "build it, fly it, build another one."

I love the internet. One time I was on a woodworking message board and somebody asked a question about a stain product. Within a few hours, the chemist who formulated the stain was answering his question. This feels kind of like that. Thank you for making that plan, I look forward to flying this cool plane soon.
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tubegeek
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« Reply #282 on: February 13, 2018, 03:56:06 PM »

OK, well, here's how it looks assembled. It's nearly finished except for finish (I want to put a coat of white on the nose and perhaps something opaque on the prop which has lots of sanding sealer visible. My first carved prop!)

It's not perfectly symmetrical but it at least makes it to the couch from across the room. Thanks Bernard for the info and support!
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