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Author Topic: Minislick -Build-  (Read 8317 times)
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adanjo
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« Reply #100 on: February 04, 2013, 09:01:22 AM »

LeRoy san,
Your prop is not very heavy.
I am using tissue tubes for all of my indoor props except A-6. Adjustable pitch and re-bakable blades are  big pros.
My ministick props weigh 112 to 130mg.
If you want to make it lighter, you should use lighter and/or thinner wood for the blades.

Don san,
Your wing post seems very thin. How about using 5mg for the posts?

Good flying, Aki
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Alan Cohen
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« Reply #101 on: February 04, 2013, 09:43:26 AM »

Alan, I just finished my 5th MiniSlick and am still overweight at 450mg.  My problem is in the prop, which (the best one) weighs 132mg.  I'm using tissue tube hub with plug-in prop spars and don't have any idea how to make a single piece prop spar and glue the blades to it.  Are there any videos that you know of which might give me some guidance on this?

LeRoy

I just paged through the build and can't see where I built the prop. I must have had a few laying around.

I just moved and everything is in boxes so I can't add to the thread right now. I can tell you my standard prop weighs 90mg. I've made 70mg props and they work better...less incidence required to get the nose up.

My prop spars are 5.5# density: .062x.062 tapered to .020x.020. Two 3.5" square tapers attached at the prop shaft by a scarf joint. No tissue tubes.
« Last Edit: February 04, 2013, 10:04:10 AM by Alan Cohen » Logged

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dslusarc
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« Reply #102 on: February 04, 2013, 11:21:10 AM »

Don san,
Your wing post seems very thin. How about using 5mg for the posts?

Aki,

The wing post are .035 x .050 6.5 pound wood. What size do you use?   

Since I just built a prop here is some info I had on my prop. Blades are from .010" sheet 4# density and I used 5.6# wood for the spar that is .060" round tapered to ~.030" round. .010" music wire shaft. The blades were 60 mg for the pair and the complete prop is 92mg. It was formed on a 3.15" diameter jar at 18 degree angle and is set to 17" pitch.

Don

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adanjo
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« Reply #103 on: February 05, 2013, 12:33:39 AM »

Aki,

The wing post are .035 x .050 6.5 pound wood. What size do you use?   

Oh, they are thicker than I had guessed watching your photo.
My posts are 1.2mm =0.047" dia, almost the same cross section as yours, and about 35 to 40mm long.
No wood density data, maybe 7-8 lbs.
Here in Japan, we will hold a Ministick contest for the International Postal Contest on 28 March at a 9m ceiling gym.
Enjoy ministick, Aki
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lcordes
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« Reply #104 on: February 05, 2013, 12:30:08 PM »

Thanks a lot guys.  I guess I have to dig up some 0.010" sheet for the blades and taper the spars more.  If I could get down to 90 or 100 mg I would need to add weight too.  For the life of me I still can't figure how you drill a prop spar and fasten it to the blades at the proper angles for the pitch without having the spars already mounted on the blades.  Maybe next one, but I will try making a lighter prop and see how I do.

LeRoy
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Alan Cohen
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« Reply #105 on: February 05, 2013, 01:33:20 PM »

Thanks a lot guys.  I guess I have to dig up some 0.010" sheet for the blades and taper the spars more.  If I could get down to 90 or 100 mg I would need to add weight too.  For the life of me I still can't figure how you drill a prop spar and fasten it to the blades at the proper angles for the pitch without having the spars already mounted on the blades.  Maybe next one, but I will try making a lighter prop and see how I do.

I pierce the prop spar with the sharpened prop shaft while it is still straight and then bend it to a 90* angle with pliers while it's still in the spar. I then pull the bend flush with the front of the spar and when it looks good I hit it with a drop of CA. Then I'll spin if afterwards to make sure its's true and make adjustments as needed. It's only .015 wire. The hard part is bending the rubber hook after the spar is glued, but I've kind of gotten used to doing it that way.
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ykleetx
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« Reply #106 on: February 05, 2013, 02:57:34 PM »

LeRoy, the Hobby Shop EZB article describes how props are made this way.  Check it out
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Olbill
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« Reply #107 on: February 05, 2013, 10:33:13 PM »

Or you can stay with 2 piece props which is the smarter way.<G>
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lcordes
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« Reply #108 on: February 09, 2013, 06:55:52 PM »

2 piece props are certainly the easier way but will have to check out the EZB article per Kangs suggestion, haven't seen it since I started in indoor when I thought that it was way too much work for me then.
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ykleetx
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« Reply #109 on: February 09, 2013, 07:50:02 PM »

LeRoy,

As others have pointed out, your prop isn't heavy.  If you are comfortable with a two-piece prop joined together with a tissue tube, I would stick with it.  Certainly, take a look at the Hobby Shop EZB article to see if it can teach you something worthwhile.

Recently, Don posted two photos of how he attaches the prop blade to the prop spar, and they are revealing:

http://www.hippocketaeronautics.com/hpa_forum/index.php/topic,13367.msg99715.html#msg99715

The photos are in replies #54 and #56
http://www.hippocketaeronautics.com/hpa_forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=13367.0;attach=88361;imagehttp://www.hippocketaeronautics.com/hpa_forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=13367.0;attach=88365;image

I do the 2-piece method.
Minislick -Build-
Minislick -Build-
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Getnold74
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« Reply #110 on: March 13, 2013, 01:44:26 PM »

Re: Message #24

Your photo showing the removal of the film slack after putting in the dihedral shows using a saliva moistened brush. Are you overlapping the film back on its self and the saliva is the adhesive?

I am not having any luck at all with this procedure. I am a newbie and my first attempt at using this procedure has not been successful. Any tips?

Can you provide the mfg and brush number?

Thanks.

Everett
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Tapio Linkosalo
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« Reply #111 on: March 13, 2013, 02:00:08 PM »

The trick is to use sufficient liquid; if you cannot spit enough (hehe!), try some solvent. I often simply add some acetone from the nose-bottle used to loosen glue joints. On light models the capillary and then air pressure is enough to keep the film folded, on heavier models I add a tiny amount of contact cement to the fluid. With deliberate amounts of fluid the film just folds onto itself; just like magic!

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Getnold74
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« Reply #112 on: March 15, 2013, 05:41:20 AM »

Thanks.

Will try again.
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Alan Cohen
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« Reply #113 on: March 15, 2013, 04:48:54 PM »

The proper paint brush makes it easier. Use a tapered brush like the one at the top of this pic. This allows enough saliva to fill the brush and travel the distance across the chord. And the taper will actually draw the film together as it passes over the slack.

If your saliva isn't sticky enough, sip a little orange juice before you lick the brush.

Attached files Thumbnail(s):
Re: Minislick -Build-
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lcordes
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« Reply #114 on: March 28, 2013, 04:51:47 PM »

Alan - regarding prop forming - I see Don S. uses a 3.15" diameter form.  What do you recommend for form Diameter?
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Alan Cohen
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« Reply #115 on: March 29, 2013, 09:03:56 AM »

I've never use cylinder forms. I use prop blocks, 10" pitch IIRC.
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ram
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« Reply #116 on: April 05, 2013, 10:40:37 AM »

Don san,
Your wing post seems very thin. How about using 5mg for the posts?

Aki,

The wing post are .035 x .050 6.5 pound wood. What size do you use?   

Since I just built a prop here is some info I had on my prop. Blades are from .010" sheet 4# density and I used 5.6# wood for the spar that is .060" round tapered to ~.030" round. .010" music wire shaft. The blades were 60 mg for the pair and the complete prop is 92mg. It was formed on a 3.15" diameter jar at 18 degree angle and is set to 17" pitch.

Don



Don,

Is your prop pitch really 17" and full flaring?  Mine is 12" pitch with the spar about .25" from TE of blade.  I haven't had a chance to fly it yet, so don't know how it will work.  Is yours typical?  I may need to make a new prop.

Rey
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lcordes
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« Reply #117 on: April 06, 2013, 10:46:56 AM »

Don, your .010 blades - are they one piece or glued up like Easy B blades ?

LeRoy
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JoseMiguel
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« Reply #118 on: December 08, 2014, 05:25:34 PM »

Hello Alan. I am new to the forum. Very good all your interventions, and very instructive.
The plan indicates minislick rubber section 0.0225 ". This thickness is 0.057 millimeters. Is this information correct?
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