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Author Topic: G-CAAA, take 2 -BUILD-  (Read 4160 times)
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hermit
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« on: February 24, 2008, 07:06:29 PM »

Hello all;

I had to do some pretty deep thinking about starting this one. G-CAAA by the way is the first registered aircraft in Canada, a JN-4 Jenny, at the first registered "Air Harbour" in Canada at Regina, Saskatchewan, by the first registered commercial pilot, Roland Groome. Since I was born in Regina, grew up a short distance from the airport and frequently visited the Prairie Flying Service hanger with my Dad (one of the partners was an air force buddy), this plane always held a special place in my psyche. Plus the success I had with the first one is going to be hard to duplicate, and a non-flying pile of sticks would not do me much good. But I have retired the first one and it hangs in all it's well worn glory from the ceiling never to fly again. So i need a new one and here goes.

Next up was a decision about size and what I wanted to put into it for details. The first one wound up too small to even attempt something resembling an OX-5, so this one will be a bit bigger, as it turns out once the plan was printed, 23" span. Still pretty small considering the span of the real one, but that gives me about an inch of space to fashion some kind of engine detail, and a very convenient 1" diameter for the rims of the wire wheels (the exact size of the bottom of a pill bottle). Those two components will be the hardest part of the build so I next decided to tackle those first.

One cylinder bank is done, at least well enough to resemble that mess of a valve train. Certainly no master scale work here, but good enough to pass on a glance. If the next one is better, then I'll keep going till I get 2 to match nicely and you never know, practice makes perfect, it might be better.

Also started the wheels, but no pics yet. I'm trying a few things that i'm making up as I go, and will take pics along the way, then if they turn out ok I'll post what I did. So not a lot of progress yet, but it's started.

Doug

P.S. Matt (Lemuel) and I have been talking about this, and I think he's going to do one as well, so we may have a mini cook-up going, if you can count 2 as a cook-up.
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hermit
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« Reply #1 on: February 26, 2008, 03:32:14 PM »

The wheels worked out. Mind you none of the new things I tried worked worth a darn. Maybe next time, but for now went back to what worked in the past for me which was two tire halves with the spindles sandwiched between.

First up is to cut the tire sections from some 1/8"sheet and basically sand to a round, by hand. One word of advice here is to only do the inside (rim area) at this time and leave the outside with some extra (square) so that you have more area to work with when you pin this section to the board. If you want your wheels to run true the tire half must be flat and stay flat. The other thing is to sand the curve of the tire on the inside at this time, it's a bear to try and do after, and doing it first assures a nice clean smooth area as a rim.

Before I pin the first half down I also like to match the two halves together for a final inside sanding to make sure they are both identical. Then pin down the first half on a grid and start marking as many lines as you want spokes. You can see from these pics that I forgot to leave the outside alone, got carried away and sanded them round! Tongue Makes it harder and as it turned out this wheel is not running without a little wobble. Oh well.
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hermit
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« Reply #2 on: February 26, 2008, 03:52:16 PM »

The last pic also shows the hub pinned in place in the center. Forgot to take a pic of this separately, but it is just a length of 1/16 aluminum tube 1/4" long with a shorter piece of 3/32" tube ca'ed over top leaving a little less than 1/16" of the 1/16" sticking out. This creates a shoulder to hold the spoke threads.

Now the spokes. I suppose there is better thread than I used, stuff that won't get a little "hairy" over time, but this gray thread was all I could find, so on it went. I glue one end down to the wheel half with a speck of ca, then loop it around the hub at the BOTTOM, under the shoulder, and bring it back skipping 2 marks and gluing it down to the 3rd. Then the next, missing 2, onto the third, and the next, and so on. Since I sometimes have trouble counting to 3, the odd time I mess up. And anybody that wants to sit and study the wheels to see where, is welcome! Sooner or later either your eyes will give out, or you'll get them all done.

Then on to the front set of spokes. I start these by gluing the end onto the tire half in between where the back row of spokes sits on the tire, although it's up to you. One other word here about making your own decisions, this will give you a wheel that has the spokes pretty much perpendicular to the axle and tire on the back, and then protruding out at an angle on the front. A choice. If you want the spokes to angle out equally front and back then the tire half should be shimmed up from the board, and you can figure out by how much, cause I like them this way. Grin

By the time you've got all the spokes in, again your choice as to how many, it pretty much looks a mess, but it gets better soon.
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hermit
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« Reply #3 on: February 26, 2008, 04:12:56 PM »

On to the finish! Now don't forget this part- spot glue the threads to the hub!!!! I forgot to mention to do this once the first row of bottom spokes was finished. Doesn't take but a speck of ca. And do the top spokes as well when they are done. This is the last time you'll be able to adjust the hub to a true 90 degrees, so before you glue the top spokes, try and make sure it's plumb. Glue the other half of the tire on, being careful to get it centered on the first one, especially if you're using ca, and press together tightly. Gotta have a good eye for that one! Once the halves are together, then the whole works can be removed from the board and if you haven't already, trim the outside edges to a round. And the rest is just careful sanding. I usually go at the tire center first with a sanding block and 220 or 320 grit, eyeing carefully till I have as round a shape as I can see when spun on a pin axle, sanding down any bumps that look odd. If you're thinking they will never be absolutely true, round and balanced....... you're right, but after all, these aren't very high speed wheels and are more for show than anything. Plus the more I do, the better each set gets. Yours will too, even better probably once you refine this basic process with your own ideas. Next time I will have to find some silk thread.

Doug

Paint and finish sand to suit
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« Reply #4 on: February 26, 2008, 05:11:32 PM »

Hey Mr Dobbyn:

I saw your "Jenny" over on the "in FLight" Photos page. It looks spectacular in the air... your comments on its slow flight capability made there caught my attention. I'd love to commit to a Jenny CU with you and Lemuel, but I'm committed to wrapping up some other FF projects. My patient wife wants me committed elsewhere with the Honeydo list, but let's not get into that... (grin) .. I'll be watching your build closely though.. I enjoyed hearing the story of this plane G-CAAA being the first on the civil register in Canada.

Your capturing of the OX 5 cylinder heads are spectacular.. I can just about hear the buzz of those exposed rocker arms as the motor turns over- and they fit on the single edge blade.

Then you move onto hand-forming spoked wheels... Gorgeous, and the color of the tire as you painted it is perfect ( at least to my eye.) Please keep the rapid fire building, descriptions and photos coming.

Regards Doug B
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BillB
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« Reply #5 on: February 26, 2008, 05:26:22 PM »

Doug, those wheels look pretty good to me. I bet you've got the fus half built by now!

Bill.

PS How do I put the flag up?

« Last Edit: February 26, 2008, 05:28:21 PM by BillB » Logged

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hermit
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« Reply #6 on: February 26, 2008, 07:04:35 PM »

Thanks for the comments Doug. I have my fingers crossed that this one will be as good. If you want to build one, sometime, anytime, let me know and I'll send you the plan.

You know me well Bill, but no, I am amiss, no fuse yet. Maybe i can get started tomorrow.

Doug
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« Reply #7 on: February 27, 2008, 10:03:38 PM »

Pretty quiet day on the forum, so I'll post a couple of pics. The wings are started! Of all the supplies I have a hard time finding up here in the frozen north, good balsa is not one of them. The local Windsor Plywood stocks "blocks" of balsa, about 3" square by 20" long, along with some Midwest sheet balsa that I use when I have to. The blocks I've bought have come in varying densities and weights, from hard to what has to known as "competition" grade, very light. Then I cut sheets from the blocks with the handy dandy table saw, probably wasting more in sawdust than what I get, but it's pretty cheap, about $4 a block, so I can afford the wastage of a thick blade. Someday I hope to get a hobby saw. The first pic is of a few strips cut, the lightest to be used for ribs, the heaviest for spars, and the middle ones for the fuse. A lot of times, like now, the decision of what size balsa to use for longerons will be determined by what kind of wood I happen to get. If it's harder and heavier than necessary I'd use 1/16" for longerons even in this size aircraft, if it's lighter but not quite as stiff, then I'll go up to 3/32. As it turns out this time I've found a few nice strips of medium light/stiff 3/32" that I'll use when I get to it. For now the wings, bottom ones first, nice leading edge that will get sanded down quite a bit with the soft balsa ribs. Right now the ribs are all flat bottomed, but I may sand in a little undercamber when I get them assembled. The two root ribs by the way are thicker and harder.
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« Reply #8 on: February 28, 2008, 12:38:36 PM »

Hey Doug, I'm checking in on your Jenny Build on my lunchbreak... a figurative sniff of balsa dust and glue vapors over the internet while eating lunch.. Good pix - thanks. You sure are resourceful in cutting your own wood to dimensions... Neat work there and very cost effective, too. Sounds like your new scale will get some use weighing all the sheet and sticks.

<<The decision of what size balsa to use for longerons will be determined by what kind of wood I happen to get.>> That idea looks like a winner.  I like how you apparently have edited the plan to delete the thick TE shown on those plans. It looks like your ribs TE will go down and join a much smaller TE wood section.  The sun shining through the covering will look so much more elegant with the smaller sticks.

Whose plan are you building from? It looks like a kit plan of some sort. I thought you were building from a large 3 view of the Jenny as opposed to a published plan- or was that the first Jenny you built and flew?

Doug B
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hermit
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« Reply #9 on: February 29, 2008, 06:15:16 PM »

Hey Doug B; The first one was from a 3-view, this one is from a plan that a friend sent me about 3/4 of the way through the first one. And yes, it is from a kit, but there's no name on it besides a signature of the designer which I can't read. The cutting of my own wood is more out of necessity than anything, just to get decent wood, but now that I've started doing that, I like it! Sure is nice to have a choice of what to use and I'm learning what different grades have for strength and what to look for.

Now to the progress. Tail parts are done along with the wings and the fuse is started. Am I following the plan, sort of. Both the stab and the fin will be hinged. I really do think it helps with trimming, especially for someone like me that can't build something exact.
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hermit
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« Reply #10 on: March 02, 2008, 01:01:03 PM »

Been a hackin and cuttin like a mad trapper, but no I'm not from Rat River! The fuse is coming together, and whether 1/32 sheet is heavier than paper, I don't know, but this is a balsa model, so I sheeted with wood. Takes a sanding better anyway. Had to revert back to some 3-views at this point for the fuse formers. The plan I've got, as mentioned is from a kit, but didn't come with a parts sheet, and of course there's no former diagrams on the plan!!! Oh well, the only tricky part was the turtle deck, but a little trial and error got things reasonable. Also got some legs under it and I'm trying something a little different than what I usually do, some fishing line as attachments. The carriage is made from hard balsa, all except the bottom cross brace which is basswood. Normally I would bend a music wire piece to form the front leg and secure it inside the fuse, indestructible, so we'll see how this one holds up. Right now it's a little wobbly but I plan on putting the cross wires on which should give it some strength.

The cowl is started and a pieces of frying pan splatter guard has been cut for the grill. Once the inside of the cowl is painted black it should look nice. The nose button is a "mushroom" screw cap from the hardware store. I'll drill a 1/16" hole to insert a brass tube as a bearing, hopefully with the right amount of down and right thrust which I'll try and duplicate from the first Jenny. Should have room for a 6 1/2" prop and I'll decide later whether to use a Peck 6", cut down 7", or to carve one. Starting to look like something. Up next is the top wing center section and struts.
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« Reply #11 on: March 02, 2008, 01:56:26 PM »

The plan is from a Comet kit. Congratulations on using the 1/32 balsa instead of the bond paper, I think that solution will be lighter. To bad Lone Star is dead fir now as their light 1/32 balsa was in the .020/.025 range from the sander. I got some when I was able to go to balsa nirvana several years ago, and I got some for that purpose.
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Dan G.
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« Reply #12 on: March 02, 2008, 07:08:21 PM »

I agree -- congrats on choosing balsa. It looks better, feels better, reacts better -- is better in every way. Of course, you do have to choose your balsa and there are things you can and cannot do, but the possibilities are so much more than with paper.

Dan G.
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« Reply #13 on: March 04, 2008, 03:57:24 PM »

Thanks guys, so far so good. The front will be painted, so there's another reason to use balsa, never could paint paper very well with water based paints.

A few fuzzy pictures, sorry, the next ones will be done at a higher resolution and trimmed down. Both engine banks are done and a couple of exhaust manifolds made. I'm trying for a sort of copper color for the exhausts, and as you can see they're still too yellow, but I'll work on that. Next up the grill will get finished and a few strips of tissue put on over the louvers to smooth them out some. What a pain, cutting all those tiny louvers, but I think it will be worth it

Doug
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« Reply #14 on: March 04, 2008, 04:28:57 PM »

Seriously fine job there hermit, keep it going.

Cheers

Sundance12
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hermit
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« Reply #15 on: March 04, 2008, 05:33:41 PM »

Here's some better ones. One good thing about using monofilament for attachment points, you can kinda stick the thing together and start making zoom zoom noises sooner! No test glides yet though. As it sits it weighs 19.1 gms for those who understand what something like this should weigh, I don't, but seems ok by me.
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hermit
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« Reply #16 on: March 04, 2008, 05:35:19 PM »

And the front. I'm starting to get nervous, this is going way too well.

Doug
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« Reply #17 on: March 04, 2008, 05:58:23 PM »

Very nice work Doug!! Great detail.
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« Reply #18 on: March 04, 2008, 05:59:52 PM »

Hermit

First, thank you for the tutorial on making spoked wheels!
Now a detailed motor-exhausts-louvers close up! Great job!
Glad to see your work here; always a pleasure...
Keep posting!

Julio
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« Reply #19 on: March 04, 2008, 06:04:34 PM »

Gheeeeze ... I think I can hear those rockers.

Dan G.
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« Reply #20 on: March 04, 2008, 06:25:26 PM »

You're welcome Julio, and thanks for the comments, means a lot when you're getting nervous. I can hear them in my sleep Dan! Darn rackety things are keeping me awake! After this no more OX-5's.

Doug
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« Reply #21 on: March 05, 2008, 12:05:53 AM »

Hey Doug, that is just beautiful. Nice work as usual. The motor and wheels really set it off nice.
By the way, what plan are you building from?
-Josh
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« Reply #22 on: March 05, 2008, 06:54:44 AM »

Doug, it looks great! Have you talked about color schemes and how you plan to apply the color, i.e. paint, chalk, etc...

Nice job. I like the spoked wheel tutorial also.
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« Reply #23 on: March 05, 2008, 09:34:23 AM »

Doug, glad I joined this forum so that now I can once again enjoy seeing your work. Beautiful job!
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« Reply #24 on: March 05, 2008, 10:17:42 AM »

Ed's here! Wanna see your's too Ex. Thanks John and Josh, Faif says the plan is a Comet. I was playing with my scale last night, weighed my old Jenny and calculated a gm per sq in of total wing area to be .36, so if I want this one to hit about the same I need it to come in at 40gms. Stuck a 5" red guillows prop on a shaft, put in on and the model weighs in right now at 22.1 gms. That leaves me about 18 gms to cover it and finish up. Having this scale is still pretty new to me so this will be a good one to mark down and record.

John, the color scheme is a little iffy at present. Always thought G-CAAA was all linen with black lettering, but I'm finding out that the fuse sides were white! So I'm debating historic accuracy vs what I think would look nicer, which is all linen. These are a couple of pics of a model hanging from the rafters at the Regina Airport, and there are some renderings of the aircraft that I have found to support the scheme.
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