Morane Type P for rubber power

[TheLurker]

From here the proportions look about right and if you're building this to, "looks right" rules then use them as they are.  Were it me I'd do what Bill suggested and if the calculated diameter is within +/- 5% of that of the wheels, use them without a second thought.  Up to +/- 10% I'd still consider using them for "looks right", beyond that I'd think about making new wheels.

I'm enjoying watching this come together.

[Squirrelnet]

Diameter looks about right but as Lurk says...  Not sure how much the rim profile would be worth in terms of points but that's a lot of effort to make two new wheels ?

[Pete Fardell]

Thanks chaps. After some more measuring I’ve decided they’ll do. I’m fairly sure they’re within the Lurk +/-  5% range anyway. I have repainted both tyres and rims though which I think makes the tyres look a little thinner due to the colour differentiation.

[THB]

Great progress Pete - sorry for boring question - but where did you source the orange prop?

[Pete Fardell]

where did you source the orange prop?

Hi Tim. I got several in a range of sizes, I think via eBay.  I’m not sure where exactly though as it was quite a few years ago now. They’re from China I believe. Funnily enough, I was going to ask if anyone had a current source as I could really do with some more.

[Nigel M]

The cowl looks a lot better, Pete. I'm trying to think of a way of adding a hard edge to the LE of the cowl to sand up to, to make it nice and sharp.

I would probably - bearing in mind my very limited experience - make a short ring of thin ply, probably 1/32nd or 1/64th (I'd have to measure what I've used in the past), and glue that inside the cowl front lip. It is quite resilient and will take a very fine edge. Works well with wingtip outlines as well. I first saw the technique used on a PSS Mustang plan in one of the mags. I think one of the designers is on HPA, Andy ??
HTH
Nigel

[Gary Dickens]

https://volare-products.myshopify.com/products/chinese-props-choose-size.

Gary

[PeeTee]

Pete
When I bought the Chinese props 8 or 9 years ago I recall getting them from Banggood in HK with the cheap postage! I've had a quick look at the website but gave up, I'm sure they are in there somewhere !!! 

Peter

[Horten 229]

HI, They  look like GWS direct drive ones . Give Robotbirds a go or their "Aligntrex" on ebay.
  Morane looks great !  Cheers Phil.

[Pete Fardell]

Thanks for the cowl edge idea, Nigel. I was already wondering if a strip of thin ply might be the ticket so it’s good to know that works. I’ll get back to the cowl later.

Thanks too for all the orange prop supply ideas. I didn’t know Volare sold them. Now that you’ve said it, Peter, I think Banggood Hong Kong was where my original batch came from too.

I’ve now started on the tailplane and the first picture shows how much I eventually decided to enlarge it (ie quite a lot). The other two photos are of the underside of the fuselage tail end and show how I intend to make the tail incidence adjustable. Basically, the tail’s spar will act like a kind of door hinge at the top edge. I’ll add shims into the crack as necessary and hold the door shut with a couple of small rubber bands on each side of the tail skid going to pegs or hooks under the fuselage, more or less where my thumb is.

[billdennis747]

That's a new one Pete. Somebody needs to try it out so thanks for volunteering! It could be very dependent on variations in the shims and facings; the smallest of 'squashings' or expandings could have a disproportionate effect on the incidence. Facings and shims of plastic might be a good idea.
Will the tail be flat plate, sectioned or lifting to maximise the efficiency? I'll wait for the aerodynamicists to turn up.

[Pete Fardell]

That's a new one Pete. Somebody needs to try it out so thanks for volunteering! It could be very dependent on variations in the shims and facings; the smallest of 'squashings' or expandings could have a disproportionate effect on the incidence. Facings and shims of plastic might be a good idea.
Will the tail be flat plate, sectioned or lifting to maximise the efficiency? I'll wait for the aerodynamicists to turn up.

It'll be a flat plate as I don't do lifting tails! I thought that if the hinge does turn out to be too fiddly to adjust reliably, I could extend both the 'door' and the 'door jamb' downwards a bit to give me a wider arc to mess about with. Good idea to make the shims and facings as un-squashy as possible though. I could maybe just coat the balsa facings with cyano?
(The other thing that occurred to me is that if it needs down elevator, I'm stuffed!)

[Slowmatch]

Will the tail be flat plate, sectioned or lifting to maximise the efficiency? I'll wait for the aerodynamicists to turn up.

Hi 

The tail won't be lifting (it's too small) so a conventional airfoil would be the least efficient. Flat or symetrical would be best. A tail's required direction of lift (up or down) is determined by the tail volume and airspeed, not by the airfoil. They need to be fairly big as on a duration model (like over Vh0.6) before they actually lift upwards at a normal trim speed. Putting an 'up lifting' section on a down-loaded tail doesn't mean it won't work - after all planes can fly upside down. But it's less efficient.

Pete, what about bits of old credit card (or similar) as shims? Or put a screw adjustment through the 'door' at the latch side?

Jon

[Pete Fardell]

I like the screw adjustment idea, Jon. I’ll think on it.
Anyway, I now have a tail. Still needs sanding so is a bit rough and ready…

[Pete Fardell]

And I now have a wing too. Rib spacing is scale, although some of the ribs are just tops to save a bit of weight.. I made the wingtips by laminating thin balsa strips around a cardboard form which was held down over a cambered block (that I made some years ago for my old Aerographics Blackburn).
A few pics….
It still needs some work, including some mild scalloping to the trailing edge and general shaping.

[Tim Horne]

Looking good Pete!

[Pete Fardell]

The Morane is now just about ready for covering. I have some Dilly tissue that I’ll be using for the first time. What you see here weighs 64g, which I think isn’t too bad for its 29.5” span. I’m still hoping it’ll come in fairly close to 100g, but we shall see.

[Pete Fardell]

The Morane is now covered, doped and sprayed with the trusty old Xtracolor ‘RFC Doped Matural Fabric’ enamel and the roundels have been stuck on. These are hand painted on white sprayed tissue and cut out. I’ve also added some thin card panelling to the front half of the fuselage, all of which needs a lot of metalising and dirtying up.

[Prosper]

Looking good, Pete!

Stephen.

[Pete Fardell]

Thanks Stephen.
I’ve now metalised and weathered the forward fuselage and cowl. Also made the little steps by moulding thread around a form and covering them in cyano for stiffness.

[OZPAF]

That's a clever idea for the steps Pete. It has lots of character.

John

[Pete Fardell]

Thanks, John.

A bit more progress… some windscreens and, be afraid, be very afraid… the little blue men are coming! Their little wooden noses will sniff you out!

[Prosper]

.

[Pete Fardell]

Stephen, I’ve just given him some eyes. Unfortunately, he still can’t see the airfield because his goggles have misted up but, hopefully, good old Triggers in the front cockpit will still get them home.

[Tim Horne]

Your pilots are always full of character. Looking great Pete. Won’t be long til trimming time.