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 on: Today at 12:35:20 AM 
Started by Mr Speedy - Last post by Mr Speedy
Just doing a trial fit...

 on: April 09, 2020, 09:50:20 PM 
Started by Andy Blackburn - Last post by OZPAF
Neat solution Andy. It is a nice looking fuse. I have just discovered how vague Walt's designs  cam be - not helped if you are working form a small image with his typical thick lines! Good luck with this.


 on: April 09, 2020, 09:44:27 PM 
Started by Pit - Last post by OZPAF
What a magnificent little flying beast Tony. Great choice of subject as well - particularly with that small fin. It transitions well - you are launching with the left hand? I agree with Mike - you were lucky to keep it out of Hung's hands.

I managed a CLG session just before lock down at a local park and lost it in a weak thermal.

Take care.



 on: April 09, 2020, 09:25:40 PM 
Started by bgrove - Last post by dputt7
    Nice work, Earl Stahl models are a pleasure to build and they all fly great.

 on: April 09, 2020, 09:23:16 PM 
Started by Pete Fardell - Last post by Bingo Fuel
Pete, very nice 1906 aviatrix. Love the bonnet. 

 on: April 09, 2020, 09:06:53 PM 
Started by simpleflyer - Last post by OZPAF
Thanks for that Chris. That info has been filed.

That was a bit dumb of me - I missed all the tape in your photo! I use a lot of masking tape - normal and low tac varieties - every thing from holding sandpaper on blocks, masking for sanding (even for paint  Smiley) to retaining the wing tips on a Inside F5J glider!(low tac for that). A very understated tool in modelling!

Cheers and take care.


 on: April 09, 2020, 08:57:40 PM 
Started by Pete Fardell - Last post by Bingo Fuel
Fokker D-VI fuselage,tailplane, spreader sub wing, cowl and wheels. Now on to the wings. Great work everyone.

 on: April 09, 2020, 08:54:12 PM 
Started by AAdamisin - Last post by OZPAF
It looks great Don. it's interesting to see the effort made to keep the weight down and the reason for using a motor stick. You have done Archie's nice design proud. I guess fflight trimming will be a fair way off in the circumstances.

I'm curious to see how you get on with the strange behaviour that Archie mentioned on his.


 on: April 09, 2020, 08:27:56 PM 
Started by GeoffinIN - Last post by GeoffinIN
Does anyone have decent scans of the printwood for Comet kit L 7 (Old designation - they changed it later) Piper J5?  There's a plan in the plans gallery, but no printwood scan.  The one near it are for a Super Cruiser, it appears.  The scans I have are terrible!

BTW, has anyone else noticed that you get better scans of printwood by using a color printer?  It seems that way to me.



 on: April 09, 2020, 07:06:12 PM 
Started by Pete Fardell - Last post by calgoddard
I have made some more progress on my 2X Mooney Impanema crop duster.

The removable landing gear was accomplished by building a pocket lined with 1/64-inch sheet plywood that snugly receives the inverted U-shaped segment of 1/32-inch music wire.  The landing gear is in the location shown on the plan and the removable wing fits nicely around the same.

The nose has been planked with 1/32-inch sheet balsa wood.

I used a heat gun to add some wash-out to the left wing tip to match that of the right wing tip.  Both wing tips were built on my building board with the same shims but the wash-out in the left wing tip mysteriously disappeared.  Last year Don DeLoach told me to warp balsa wood wings with a heat gun, not with moisture.

The nose block is the typical cross-laminated balsa wood type.  Right now I have an 8-inch diameter Gizmo Geezer prop assembly temporarily installed. If the model ends up nose heavy I may switch to a lighter balsa wood prop if I need to add too much ballast to the rear end of the fuselage to get the CG in the location shown on the plan.

The projected wing span of this model is 25 1/2-inches.  The weight as shown is approximately 33 grams.  In my experience scale models this size are much easier to trim than Peanut scale models.  Obviously this larger version is for outdoor flying only.  It is being built for the FAC contest in Buckeye, Arizona scheduled for October, 2020.  It will be flying over green alfalfa so yellow Esaki tissue covering is essential for locating and recovering this model.  

I still need to add the wheels, tissue, dope and canopy. The latter is going to be a real challenge. I would like to vacuum mold a canopy but my vacuum molding machine is 550 miles away and I may not have access to it for months.  The alternative is to build a canopy frame and and use flat transparent acetate panels for the windows.  Does anyone know if the full size Embraer Ipanema EMB-200 used flat window panes?    

 on: April 09, 2020, 06:19:54 PM 
Started by Pete Fardell - Last post by PB_guy
Gee Pete, are you going to name the Demoiselle the 'Chitty Chitty Bang Bang"?  Grin

Hollandair Libel

  I installed the struts and tension bars and installed a windscreen. Fresh set of pics. I glued up some balsa to carve a prop.


 on: April 09, 2020, 06:12:01 PM 
Started by Dan Snow - Last post by Dan Snow
Yup, thanks, that's the look I was going for. My failing was in getting the posts that plug into the wing aligned with each other. Every attempt came out looking like someone had walked up and kicked the plane square in the danglies!

 on: April 09, 2020, 05:48:01 PM 
Started by Pete Fardell - Last post by Pete Fardell

Possibly the least macho day of aeromodelling I’ve ever done...
Meet Miss Truly Scrumptious, who today is wearing an ankle-length blue silk dress with a fitted bodice and puffed sleeves, tastefully accessorised with white gloves, a fine straw bonnet in ‘summer yellow’ with a white chiffon scarf worn in the new 1909 aviatrix fashion. (Hair, skin tone and make-up by Crawford and Black.)

 on: April 09, 2020, 05:30:03 PM 
Started by Pete Fardell - Last post by Don McLellan
Hi Jack Plane,

The floats for my Taylorcraft are made from 1/32 balsa, are just over 5" long, approx .75 grms each and were designed by Crabby's dad (mentioned earlier).  According to Crabby, these work for ROW.


 on: April 09, 2020, 05:28:01 PM 
Started by Pete Fardell - Last post by Russ Lister
Great progress John .... PM me your address Smiley

 on: April 09, 2020, 05:27:44 PM 
Started by AAdamisin - Last post by dslusarc
Thanks! It came out nice and having good skins to print really helps. I went with a solid stick as there was enough weight left to do it. Plus on the 7" restricted prop, the motors are not so large. We would fly 12" diameter props on 6.2 gram models with .125" rubber so needed the rolled tubes on models to take the load. The smaller prop means rubber closer to .090 so the stick is fine. The wood I used  for the stick I harvested from a local hobby shop or craft store. I have been raiding the stores for years with my gram scale and pick through the wood one sheet at a time l so have found a lot of 4-6# wood over the years. I used 6# on the outlines and 5.5# on the ribs and 10# for the wing spars and the verticals at the leading and trailing edges. Prop will be next task.

By the way I went with a little more dihedral than you mentioned before, this is a low winger and you are allowed the greater of 1" per 12" span (1.33") or up to the bottom of the canopy on a low winger. So I am around 1.5". Now just need a place to fly! I did use a simplex airfoil, I am partial to a 5% on my nocals.


 on: April 09, 2020, 05:04:18 PM 
Started by Pete Fardell - Last post by Newbie_John
Some lovely models, both finished and ongoing  - very impressed, and a bit wistful when I see some of the standards being displayed!


Got some more T.O.I.L. from SWMBO today, so got all the flying surfaces covered - even got my extra point for covering both sides  Grin Grin Grin
Actually quite chuffed with how they've turned out, and the fuselage is doing well, but I'm having the same angst as Mr Lurker as I do a very similar undercart Undecided

Russ, if you're reading - if your wheels wouldn't feel embarrassed to be fitted to my model, I'd love a 1" pair.......

Keep up the great work,everyone

 on: April 09, 2020, 04:40:05 PM 
Started by timer Guy - Last post by flydean1
Let me also chime in.  I have used 4 different model Texas Timers over the last 20 years or so.  Never a timer malfunction.  Extremely user friendly and well made.  Worth every cent!

 on: April 09, 2020, 04:38:18 PM 
Started by Pete Fardell - Last post by Jack Plane
Floats for Pilatus Porter

Now moved onto the floats (recap: design is from Walt's 24" version shrunk to 70% and mistakes corrected) using 1/32" for the formers and 1/20" for the longerons.

Whereas the wings are the only components I've drawn fresh (for close accuracy of fitting ribs and riblets), I've stuck with my rough-and-ready (err... lazy!?) method of building straight over Walt's fat lines for the fuselage and now the floats.

I must confess I've been wondering for a bit about the wisdom of repeated landings (outdoors and indoors) on a wholly tissue-covered structure...

BUT seeing Don's all-sheet method for floats a few posts up, I reckon I can use very thin sheet (1/32 sanded thinner) on the undersides without too much of a weight penalty.

One learns loads of directly useful things from a mass cook-up!  Smiley

PS - The eagle-eyed will have immediately spotted that Former A on the left-hand float has lifted on one side! Shocked  But fret not, I spotted that just before the glue had gone off too much and biffed it back into place!

 on: April 09, 2020, 04:32:28 PM 
Started by Pete Fardell - Last post by Russ Lister
< shuffles in like Mr. Grace>

"You've all done very well"  Smiley

 on: April 09, 2020, 04:15:16 PM 
Started by Pete Fardell - Last post by TheLurker
Chiribiri No. 5

My, but there are lot of lovely models being built ... and finished.

And this evening's entry for the, "Mrs Joyful Prize for Raffia Work" is the UC framework. This was an interesting little exercise. If you ever decide to build a C.5 may I suggest that you make the entire UC structure out of basswood or similar and give the recommended bamboo bits a body swerve? Had to use CA for the joints, my least favourite adhesive, because nothing else I have would hold.

And for some reason the sub-assembly brought this to mind click here.

Pics. Couple of views of the UC struts and the fuselage perched on same.

 on: April 09, 2020, 02:29:25 PM 
Started by Pete Fardell - Last post by Kevin M
... I always fancied the model but never got around to building it.
Seeing your effort makes me tempted again, I think I already have the plans.

Thanks John, if you would like a copy of my CAD cleaned-up drawings let me know.

 on: April 09, 2020, 02:26:03 PM 
Started by Jorgefly - Last post by Jorgefly
If you have a smartphone then download any BPM app.
That allows you to watch the plane and tap each revolution of the prop.
I use one to count RPM and log when it changes.
You can get quite sophisticated graphs if you take a reading regularly.

If you statically test then you can easily get a comparative set of data.
The same as rubber testing.
It won't reflect exactly what is happening on your airplane, but it will show you the changes over the torque curve.
That info might be useful or it might not.

You are correct though - the path of the rubber torque reduction is a curve, whilst the path of spring torsion is linear.

If you set the VP to change on the knee of the rubber curve it will operate like a switch to move from the rapidly dropping pat of the rubber curve to the flatter cruise.
If you back off the rubber after winding down the sharp drop to the cruise section then maybe you can match the hub spring to the rubber gradient..

All very interesting stuff Smiley

I think the most important information when you buy or build a VP from a plan is the range that the VP works on which is the spring range (torque/linear or angular displacement.
I mean: the torque range that the spring supports from maximum high pitch to minimum low pitch. Thus each user could adjust the VP to the torque curve of his rubber.

Attached mi VP study

 on: April 09, 2020, 02:22:58 PM 
Started by Dan Snow - Last post by ironmike
This pic may help ya on the LG

 on: April 09, 2020, 02:20:38 PM 
Started by Pete Fardell - Last post by Don McLellan

Finished gluing the second fuse side, and have started on the second float.

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