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 on: Today at 04:48:41 PM 
Started by simpleflyer - Last post by sx976
Here's a screenshot of it. Not 100% sure yet how it works. My assumption at the moment is that only the down line moves and is attached to the hole in the arm on the left. The metal fitting on the right is the up and down stop. The notch next to it is for the forefinger. The up line is stationary and is fixed to the ring that is visible on the left side of the handle.

Any better ideas??

Chris P

 on: Today at 04:22:28 PM 
Started by DerekMc - Last post by Smithy64
Finished up a new set of props for the 15" Megow Skyrocket.  P/D 1.4, 4.5" dia, carved following a Don Deloach prop block diagram from the September 2008 Flying Models magazine.


Wow looks really great nice job


 on: Today at 03:32:57 PM 
Started by FLYACE1946 - Last post by mescal1
I'll dig around for the newsletter.  I don't remember an article but there may be a short note.  Daughter has volleyball tonight but I'll try to post what I find tomorrow.

 on: Today at 03:27:40 PM 
Started by DerekMc - Last post by MKelly
Finished up a new set of props for the 15" Megow Skyrocket.  P/D 1.4, 4.5" dia, carved following a Don Deloach prop block diagram from the September 2008 Flying Models magazine.


 on: Today at 03:20:51 PM 
Started by FLYACE1946 - Last post by tom arnold
There was no magazine article on Dick's Tigercat as the plan was drawn up for the Cactus  Sqdn newsletter. The key to making this fly, I have been told, is the prop and motor combo and what it is, I don't know. Gene Smith would have the secret, though.

 on: Today at 03:16:52 PM 
Started by bgrove - Last post by bgrove
Attached the canopy.  I still need to glue the sides, but I can't use tape for fear of removing white paint so I'm doing one section at a time.

Added '01' to lower fin.

I have to attach the wing tips, spinner and the top fuselage runner elements and that's about it.  I'm still working on the exhaust element.  I sanded way down what I had built previously and it might work.

She's looking sharp.  Weight is now 26 grams w prop, rubber but less the spinner.

 on: Today at 01:48:17 PM 
Started by VMC - Last post by FreeFlightModeller
Stanford Hall is quite local to me .... not been for a few years, but I used to like seeing the Pilcher exhibit there with several static models. But for his fatal accident, he might have been the man for that first powered flight.
Have contemplated modelling one of his creations, but I'm not sure I would be the right man for the job ...

 on: Today at 01:09:47 PM 
Started by Skymon - Last post by Olbill
Then on the other hand the lighter of my 2 Yashinskiy gliders will break 40 seconds from 23' so they're not that bad in the glide. (catapult launch. I'm not much good at throwing anything any more.)

 on: Today at 12:49:01 PM 
Started by VMC - Last post by PB_guy
See also: http://www.theaerodrome.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47243
Collection of his original drawings: https://aerosocietyheritage.com/collections/percy-pilcher-drawings/

 on: Today at 12:02:21 PM 
Started by VMC - Last post by yagua
Quick search shows that another channel allready made a documantery about it.
In one of the pics is also what apears to be a rubber powered scale model. If someone recognize the modeler, maybe plans will be available (somewhere.. somehow..)  Wink
If so... it´ll be nice to get a copy!!  Grin

 on: Today at 11:46:51 AM 
Started by VMC - Last post by VMC
Hello all

I hope the mods will allow me to post this, but we've had the following enquiry from a TV production company.

Hello there,
I'm a producer at Wise Owl Films, we're a TV production company based in Leeds. I'm currently working on a new series for More4 about great British inventions.
One of our episodes will be on British aviation breakthroughs and one story we're keen to feature is about Scottish pioneer, Percy Pilcher.
We'd like to film a sequence showing the triplane Pilcher had created vs the Wright Brothers' plane, and I wondered if it would be possible to do this using two remote controlled models. I can't imagine models of these early planes exist anywhere... I wondered if you might know of any or could tell me how easy it would be to have them specially made?
Many thanks in advance and hope to hear from you soon.
All the best,
Lilly Marchesi

We can't help but wondered whether one of you clever people might be up for building one or other of these?

If you're interested, please contact Lilly direct on this email: [email protected]

Thank you


 on: Today at 11:42:48 AM 
Started by Skymon - Last post by Skymon
The flapped wings have high camber and high drag.
The slow flight looks beautiful and sedate, but maybe a faster, less draggy wing could work.
I have some lightish wood on my bench and I don't see why foam can't also be used.
I have an evening in the usual hall in a few weeks, I'll try to have something ready for then.
At least with a glider you don't have to wait ten minutes for a test flight to be over Smiley

Good chatting with you Bill

 on: Today at 11:23:15 AM 
Started by Duncan McBride - Last post by Duncan McBride
Well, I got it covered.  I wanted to try some test flights before completing all the detail.  Turns out it needed a good bit of lead in the nose to balance.  Some test glides looked safe enough and I tried some flights on low power.  I can't tell for sure because it was a little breezy and the flights were just extended glides, but it may need a little dihedral.  Nothing broken but the prop, just a few sprains.  I'm going to install the nose weight so there isn't a roll of lead tape stuck to the bottom of the cowl, straighten out the landing gear, and figure out how to add dihedral at the wing junctions.  It may take a while. 

 on: Today at 11:22:22 AM 
Started by Skymon - Last post by Olbill
Ishii hates flapped gliders. His records have all been set with rigid wings using his airfoils. I flew a couple of his CLG's at Kent and was getting 60+. Jim Buxton flew one of his F1N's to a respectable time after about 15 minutes practice. I can't remember the time right now.

 on: Today at 11:10:37 AM 
Started by FLYACE1946 - Last post by Duncan McBride
I just started one of these from the plans in the Plan Gallery.  The plans show a unique method of fuselage construction.  I gave up on that and made it a half shell, the former cross-sections are shown on the side view.  Was there a magazine article on this, or maybe a newsletter?  I saw Mike Kelly's Tigercat at the NonNats - very pretty airplane.

 on: Today at 10:30:44 AM 
Started by Larry R. - Last post by Larry R.
- the thing is, how does it affect the energy that can be stored, and the energy that can be released?

According to the Scientific American experiment, if I read it correctly, a warmer rubber band contains more energy, yet at the same time the rubber's long polymer molecules contract, and the rubber band shortens somewhat.  This makes me think that on a warm summer day a model's rubber motor will have somewhat greater tension as it is stretched between the prop hook and the rear motor peg.  If I'm not mistaken, this greater tension is an indication of greater stored energy in the rubber motor, some of which translates to greater energy to the prop.  But, in warmer, lighter air the prop has less bite.  So.........?

 on: Today at 10:25:04 AM 
Started by Tim Horne - Last post by Bryanair
The Aeromodeller plan of the Martinsyde Elephant was a Nats winner for designer Mike Smith.

 on: Today at 09:26:20 AM 
Started by Larry R. - Last post by Prosper
Thanks for the link Larry R. I didn't do the experiment because it requires adult assistance. . .but the effect of heat on rubber is interesting - the thing is, how does it affect the energy that can be stored, and the energy that can be released?

Piecost, I can only agree that humidity reduces duration based on observation - except in one respect: I can say for sure that models get heavier in dank air. I've measured this.

For zero-lift conditions, yes, but atmospheric lift, two things are needed - energy (from the sun) and moisture.
The classic thermal  - a self-raising mass of air with a cumulus top - does need moisture as well as sunshine, but so long as different bits of terrain absorb different amounts of heat, there's lift in even the dryest air, in sunshine. "Blue-sky thermals" glider pilots call them. In fact I was just flying a model and watching a whole flock of rooks and daws circling way way up in a thermal, in a clear blue sky. I think it came off the expanse of concrete and metal sheds of the dairy farm next door.


 on: Today at 09:16:09 AM 
Started by DerekMc - Last post by Prosper
I have now! And it does much the same thing! So it's just tip-stalling all along. I'm surprised because f'ra start I wasn't expecting tip-stalling and second because the model was doing this under all conditions of flight, not just near the stall. I now think that the first tip-stall would set the ailerons off and they'd just keep correcting, and due to inertia, lag etc as discussed above, the motion couldn't damp out.

It doesn't surprise me that the model can fly without a pendulum (in light breezes). It was a toss-up whether to include them. I'd build many another high-winger with almost no dihedral and not think of a pendulum, but this particular airframe made me think pendulum ailerons were advisable.

The next issue is that it's considerably underpowered. That doesn't surprise me either - this is a much bigger model than my first direct-drive supercap model. It has a lower wingloading though, and I was hoping that would do the trick, but it looks like this model couldn't get much over 20 seconds as it stands. I think it's back-burner time for this baby.


 on: Today at 07:14:32 AM 
Started by Fourfingers - Last post by Fourfingers
Patience, Greggie, patience|

I ordered the wrong ones (4x40), and they didn't fit ....
5x40 now ordered and await Postie impatiently.  Good source at Accu.com.  Other suppliers are available.
you will hear it when I fire it up.
PS are these so-called 'intelligent' glow starter sticks worth buying?  Fed up with my regular ones discharging at improper moments.  I do have a 12v leisure battery.  Might be worth getting a panel for that.  Cox 049 especially hard on glow sticks for some reason.

 on: Today at 07:13:34 AM 
Started by simpleflyer - Last post by sx976
On this YouTube Video :


there is the only example of a 'bespoke' pole for whip control models with elevator control that I have ever come across. Appears to be single handed operation too!!

Chris P

 on: Today at 04:59:20 AM 
Started by Fourfingers - Last post by greggles47
Many thanks to all repliers ...
I have ordered some 1/8th UNC 40 tpi stainless bolts ...
Bet they dont fit!

Well, did they fit?

 on: Today at 04:03:24 AM 
Started by Ashu - Last post by RalphS
Ashu -  just wrap a small piece of masking tape around the tube where you want the cut.  The blade will easily cut into the masking tape as you roll it and will guide the blade as you increase pressure to cut the tube.

 on: Today at 03:53:48 AM 
Started by Skymon - Last post by Skymon
That's what I've seen too.
I believe that's possible, I can get 27 from about half way up, so it should be good for double if I can get twice as high.
The glide is nice.
The problem is getting the launch height.

I have a time of 32 seconds in a proper CATI - 7.9m ceiling with no high parts at all - just a flat 8m ceiling.
Before I trashed the model I could reliably skim the ceiling on pretty much every throw.

I see the CATI record is 49.8 - that's a long way to go.

I reckon that plane turns about a 10m circle, it goes around almost exactly three times.
10m circle has a circumference of about 32m, so a flight path of around 96m and a drop of 8m.
96m flight path in 32 seconds from 8m to 0m means it's dropping a metre every 4 seconds.
A descent angle of 4.5 degrees.

I need to improve my time by 54% to get over that record.
That's a tough job Smiley

looking at the glide ratio, it's not great - 12.5.
I wonder if the flapped, high drag wing is the best solution. It seems to give a slow flight, but would a faster flight at a better glide ratio give a longer flight time?

Some experimentation needed.

 on: Today at 02:38:54 AM 
Started by Ashu - Last post by Ashu
I used to work at a medical instrument manufacturer that had 20 technicians fabricating medical tools continuously using thin wall, small diameter stainless steel hypodermic tubing. Standard practice was to cut it by rolling the tube beneath a sturdy craft knife blade (Stanley knife type). A fine ring is impressed into the tube wall and it will either cut through or weaken to snap off. Seems strange until you try it.

Thanks. Yes you had mentioned this in your first post. I tried it with the snap-off blade knife I have here, but that method didnt seem to work with this needle. I tried an Xacto knife blade too. I am not sure if it is the knife, but maybe the method works for much thinner needles about 24gauge or more? This 18 gauge needle is strong (chart shows wall thickness as 0.216mm) and I am able to cut the needle after much effort only by using my craft knife like hand-saw.

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