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 1 
 on: Today at 12:07:41 PM 
Started by Little-Acorn - Last post by bjt4888
LA,

Good job. Design has all the basics. Here's a design that was the result of a full school-year SO season of design and testing leading to copying elements of a competing school's design. 2.35 grams, 17.5" motor stick, kevlar thread lateral and vertical truss, deceivingly simple lower rotor design saves 5% weight (no .020" wire shaft, no pushrod tube "axle" housing, no bearing) and works better than it looks.

2:15 flight time for 8 ft ceiling with minimal testing. Looked capable of 5 - 10 seconds more with better motor matched to rotor. Saw a very similar design do 2:35 under a 22 ft ceiling winning Michigan SO States that year.

Test longer and longer and thinner and thinner rubber and play with rotor pitch and definitely build to minimum weight.

Have fun,

Brian T

 2 
 on: Today at 10:16:12 AM 
Started by Squirrelnet - Last post by Invader3
Beautiful, Chris!

Was reminded of your model while at White Waltham over the weekend and had a look at the Miles Monarch that's mouldering away in one of the hangers (G-AFLW). Sad Cry

John

 3 
 on: Today at 08:55:54 AM 
Started by steveneill - Last post by steveneill
Same here. I'm hoping next week.

 4 
 on: Today at 07:27:31 AM 
Started by steveneill - Last post by kaintuck
Nice...still waiting on my test flight....the weather and work schedules aren't cooperating here in Tn....but soon I hope!
Marc

 5 
 on: Today at 06:18:59 AM 
Started by LivingRoomFlight - Last post by piecost
Thanks for the details. I have done chalking for single.colours but have not tried more complex schemes.

 6 
 on: Today at 05:03:44 AM 
Started by Richard Hewitt - Last post by dputt7
  You probably have seen these before.
                                                  Dave

 7 
 on: Today at 04:59:23 AM 
Started by Mark Braunlich - Last post by Ian Horne
Thanks Tim and Dave and young Hugo for the advice help and encouragement . The fact that i would have got more airtime by throwing a stone does not discourage me, its all a learning curve 3 days to go maybe thursday i can get some scores to post , Im hooked

 8 
 on: Today at 02:55:11 AM 
Started by Tapio Linkosalo - Last post by Tapio Linkosalo
While re-printing the nose with better settings (which seem to have worked), I also added yet another feature. Seen under the strip of tape, left of the timer.

I have been using trackers made by Allard van Wallene, and I asked him, how small he could make a tracker. Without a power/programming connector and no shrink wrap on the PCB, the tracker (with shorter antenna) weighs 0.43 grams. I made a new cavity in the nose to house it. Does not seem to harm. The overall weight of the model with the tracker included is 22.3 grams (18" span). Now this model has both audible beeper and the tracker, so I should be safe to fly it even in long grass! Cheesy

 9 
 on: Today at 02:45:05 AM 
Started by LivingRoomFlight - Last post by LivingRoomFlight
Thanks all <3!

@piecost, About the markings, I was masking them with paper templates sprayed a little with paper home glue before chalking camo. Then, after camo was ready and maskings were removed, I was using pastel crayons to color the markings. I was covering everything dry, then water shrinking + krylon.

https://kennedyart.com/products/pastel-a-lecu-no-507/
https://kennedyart.com/products/pastel-a-lecu-no-434/
https://kennedyart.com/products/pastel-a-lecu-no-504/
https://www.amazon.nl/Conte-Paris-Pastel-Potlood-Set/dp/B001UQU832/ref=asc_df_B001UQU832/?tag=nlshogostdde-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=430587817865&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15954743001066392804&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1010659&hvtargid=pla-420454836180&psc=1

 10 
 on: Today at 02:28:05 AM 
Started by Richard Hewitt - Last post by Richard Hewitt
Yes dputt7, it's my own design based on the info in the "Flight" article, May 20 1932. There is a GA drawing with the article that I could use, although I had to apply some intelligent guesswork. I know there have been other models of this aircraft in the past - a large R/C one by a French guy, and Gene Falada did a quarter-scale seaplane version in his "Sea-clusion" plans range. I would love to know what drawings they used as the basis of their respective designs - even if it's too late to help me!
Cheers
Richard

 11 
 on: Today at 02:20:13 AM 
Started by Little-Acorn - Last post by Little-Acorn
Carbon fiber version prototyped, so far so good. 53sec flight under an 8' ceiling, .094" motor, 14" long. Weight of copter w/o motor, 3.2g. Rotors made from 0.5mm carbon fiber.

Covering compound curves with a produce bag from Walmart isn't easy. Wrinkles galore. Sloppy work by me, trimming the covering too. Might try crumpling up some Mylar real tight next.

Might also try 3- or 4-blade rotors next, mix-n-match.

 12 
 on: Today at 01:46:59 AM 
Started by Tim Hooper - Last post by lincoln
Isn't a 6" prop kinda big for a 14" model?  I thought the rule of thumb was 1/4 to 1/3 the wingspan -- at least for scale models, and sport models in the hands of beginners.

(Tim -- don't think I know what I'm talking about: I'm definitely asking here -- the other Tim).

It looks like the model has quite a bit if dihedral, so maybe it can handle the moderately large prop. 50 percent of wing span isn't unheard of in outdoor,duration models.

 13 
 on: September 27, 2020, 11:34:19 PM 
Started by JRhoades - Last post by strat-o
On the first page of the PDF they have an indication of the CG of the Banshee.  By eye I'd estimate something like 35% chord.  (But it's kind of hard to tell because of the taper of the wing).

Marlin

 14 
 on: September 27, 2020, 10:36:07 PM 
Started by JRhoades - Last post by flydean1
I would lean toward right-right.  I would never fly a pylon model with a low thrustline to the left.  Glide right or left is optional, but if it is going to the right already, easier to transition.

 15 
 on: September 27, 2020, 10:18:39 PM 
Started by Mark Braunlich - Last post by THB
Hope the calm is headed your way then Ricky! - it was good enough for me and Hugo to get some Mooney Peanut flights in too while we were there which H always enjoys (unfortunately my videos of these were a bit rubbish). Pic with Dave working on his Drobek - cheers THB

 16 
 on: September 27, 2020, 08:45:43 PM 
Started by JRhoades - Last post by gossie
Have never built Banshee, but my guess is CG @ 50%, and fly it left left.
I feel that's the way I would do a fly for fun Banshee.
Less washout on left wing, tail tilt and a little left rudder for turn, but have wriggle room on engine for both side thrust and down thrust.

 17 
 on: September 27, 2020, 08:13:37 PM 
Started by Richard Hewitt - Last post by dputt7
  Nicely done, great to see another Diesel Scale Model, is it your own design?

 18 
 on: September 27, 2020, 07:24:45 PM 
Started by Tim Hooper - Last post by gossie
I told him on FB yesterday a loop of 1/8 because it would work and because of that over large prop.
Too much grunt and it will helicopter.

 19 
 on: September 27, 2020, 07:23:34 PM 
Started by RPS - Last post by RPS
Hi,
Anyone know where I can find the wing rib and former templates for the Bud Nosen 1/4 scale Aeronca Champ? I have the 2 plan sheets but I'm missing the template sheet. Thanks.

 20 
 on: September 27, 2020, 07:09:49 PM 
Started by Tim Hooper - Last post by TimWescott
Isn't a 6" prop kinda big for a 14" model?  I thought the rule of thumb was 1/4 to 1/3 the wingspan -- at least for scale models, and sport models in the hands of beginners.

(Tim -- don't think I know what I'm talking about: I'm definitely asking here -- the other Tim).

 21 
 on: September 27, 2020, 06:29:01 PM 
Started by LivingRoomFlight - Last post by faif2d
You have done a wonderful job on this model!!!

 22 
 on: September 27, 2020, 06:11:51 PM 
Started by JRhoades - Last post by JRhoades
     Still looking for info on CG and which direction to turn in the climb.  I tend to lean to considering it like a high pylon model and fly to the right, but the side area up front is cabin like.  I hope someone with Banshee trimming experience can give me some meaningful pointers.  I just don't have any experience with OT ships like this and I want to have a fair chance at not making any fatal mistakes.  Thanks in advance for some help.

Jim Rhoades

 23 
 on: September 27, 2020, 04:19:08 PM 
Started by LivingRoomFlight - Last post by piecost
That isna great looking model. Would you mind telling what chalks you used and how you did the markings?

 24 
 on: September 27, 2020, 03:07:34 PM 
Started by Konrad - Last post by Konrad
I found a nice "Z" hub spinner aimed at the new F5K class of glider. These are 25mm in diameter and come in various collet sizes.
https://flightcomp.com/collections/spinners/products/cn-25mm-f5k-spinner

This 25mm diameter is almost perfect for grafting a motor on to the Chrysalis Lite. With the new smaller spinner the side area ahead of the CG is actually less than that of the original F3-RES glider configuration (Assuming the blades fold along the side of the fuselage).

I don't think I'll be able to lower the weight to reach 400 grams. But it is looking like I'll still hit the 435 gram mark of the original glider!

 25 
 on: September 27, 2020, 02:34:08 PM 
Started by Pete Fardell - Last post by Pete Fardell
The steel pigment powder was good, but it was the liquid "engine grime" and "engine oil" that I really liked. I had to resist the urge to splash even more on. It's paint really I think, but quite thin and transparent, and oily coloured. The set of 5 jars of paints and pigments come in this pack, evidently mainly intended for railway modellers. Someone, probably on here, must have recommended them to me a few years ago. Still available on Amazon etc.

(And yes, I think M. Bleriot might be getting some oily grime slapped in his face once I've made him. It might even cheer him up a bit.)

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