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Sky9pilot
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« Reply #50 on: April 04, 2012, 12:51:40 PM » |
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Really nice work Jon...look forward to see her all finished.
Tom
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OZPAF
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« Reply #51 on: April 04, 2012, 07:51:27 PM » |
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Agree with Tom, Jon - very neat effort. It's becoming your trade mark. This will be a nice little flyer.
John
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Yak 52
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« Reply #52 on: April 13, 2012, 08:00:44 AM » |
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Thanks Tom and John  Well she's more or less done. I decided to make a little bit of an engine (inspired by Tim on SFA) It seemed a worthy way of adding a bit of noseweight. The final weight is 16.6g, just a shade over Scigs' prototype. I was recently given a colour printer and the ink arrived just in time to do the Cub logo on the fin. I used thinners to stick it down but perhaps I should've used a gluestick. The windscreen was quite tricky to do. I originally tried to do it all in one sheet but ended up doing the screen separately, then gluing on the wing, then doing the side windows last. I've discovered the joys of low-tack masking tape for keeping the screens clean while I glue them, makes a much nicer job of it. Thanks again Scigs for a really sweet little design!  We have no more indoor flying here for a while so I'll probably end up trimming it outside.... Jon |
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Sky9pilot
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« Reply #53 on: April 13, 2012, 10:11:28 AM » |
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Outstanding Jon.... The engine really adds to the looks...very nice indeed.... I haven't gotten to the skill level of your windscreen and window installation...very clean and sharp installation....what kind of low stick tape do you use?  Name and source please.... Great Cub  Tom |
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Yak 52
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« Reply #54 on: April 13, 2012, 10:31:57 AM » |
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Thanks Tom. I do hate doing canopies and screens - the pressure is on and you can really mess up a model. I use Pacer Formula 560 canopy glue which cleans up well with water. I managed to remove it from the model both of the times I messed up! Third attempt was ok though.... ....what kind of low stick tape do you use? Name and source please.... I've got some of this stuff: http://www.pondskippercrafts.co.uk/Stix-2-Low-Tack-Stencil-Tape/prod_959.html Although I'm sure you'd get similar over your side of the pond. It's useless for actually holding components but perfect for covering cellophane or acetate and then peeling off cleanly. I used it on the screen inside and out and also on the adjacent tissue. Normal masking tape sticks ok over the top of it for holding the screen in place. I've also been using it to mask up when sticking on wings and tails with PVA. My method is to mask up close to the glue line beforehand, then stick it, wait for 10 minutes for it to grab, remove the tape and soak/wipe off the excess with a wet/damp paint brush. If you don't clean up you end up with a visible line. You can see on the pics of the Raven below: the fuselage/wing join was before I learnt to clean up - the glueline is visible although I scraped away at it with a blade. The second one shows the cleaned up fuselage/tailplane join. Removing the excess while it was soft makes it near invisible... Jon |
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Dave Andreski
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« Reply #55 on: April 13, 2012, 10:44:30 AM » |
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Jon,
Great job on your Boston CUB!
I've never built a CUB. Maybe one of these days...
Dave Andreski
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Aspire to inspire before you expire.
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Sky9pilot
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« Reply #56 on: April 13, 2012, 01:36:05 PM » |
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Thanks Jon for the insights and clarification...looks great....now to get started on the Widgeon for the Frog Sr. cookup...hopefully the weather will let up so I can trim and fly the Bostang and the New Standard D-25...
Tom
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Yak 52
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« Reply #57 on: April 14, 2012, 05:58:00 AM » |
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Here's a few more details of the engine. It is just three bits of balsa each side, the tapered engine block painted with Humbrol matt black and the valve covers from 1/16 sheet painted silver. It's not very scale (and I didn't sand it all that well ) but it's enough to give an impression I hope. Jon |
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Sky9pilot
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« Reply #58 on: April 14, 2012, 07:29:51 PM » |
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Jon.... Sets the nose off beautifully...Well Done Tom |
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OZPAF
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« Reply #59 on: April 15, 2012, 02:41:39 AM » |
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Very nice Jon.
John
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Yak 52
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« Reply #60 on: October 19, 2012, 05:17:04 PM » |
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I finally got to fly the Cub today at our first indoor meeting of the winter. She flew very well on 1/8th, with a trim tab giving left rudder and 'crossed' aileron to keep the inside wing up. I didn't time her but I'd say around 30 seconds with 4 or 5 circuits and a couple of nice landings. The model climbed steadily for the first few circuits and got a little high so a longer motor should be about right and give more turns. The thrustlines were ok with just the tiniest opening out of the turn on the last circuit. I 'blew' a motor as the knot slipped  minimal damage fortunately but does anyone have any tips on how to prevent this? I just used a double overhand before lubricating it. Jon |
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Tmat
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« Reply #61 on: October 19, 2012, 05:48:02 PM » |
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Ahh knots...... Here's a few ideas. There was a knot thread on SFA a while back where we talked about this. John Barker had some suggestions as did others. http://www.smallflyingartsforum.com/YaBB.pl?num=1220717685/12#12I did a lot of pull tests to destruction and found that the type of knots was not very important. I used a simple stopper knot on the ends of each strand lubricated with saliva. Then I found that a simple overhand knot tied with a small amount of lube (you pull the knot slowly up against the stoppers first) worked as well as any of the "fancy" knots. Not damaging the rubber is the real secret. Lately I'm using a simpler knot. Here is a Youtube video of my flying buddy showing how it's done: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tbriKYmW2Fk&list=UUq8wTztrrtPfl5-ar04mjaA&index=2&feature=plcpThe key is that the knot is pulled so that any damage to the rubber is done on the "back" side away from the rubber that is wound. No lube is required to make this knot. Good luck! Tony |
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F1B guy...
But don't hold that against me!
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atesus
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« Reply #62 on: October 19, 2012, 06:18:27 PM » |
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After tying the knot I apply a droplet of medium CA on the outer side of the knot. Thin CA tends to wick towards the business side of the knot, I found medium CA works best. I know some people glue the "ears" together, I apply the glue directly on the knot.
Best,
--Ates
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Phugoid
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« Reply #63 on: October 19, 2012, 06:31:58 PM » |
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I do the same as atesus re the CA I just use saliva to lube the knot, pulling on he ears so that the damage (if any) is on the non business side. Just make sure that you don't get the CA on the business side, it makes the rubber instantly brittle (guess how I know!)
Andrew
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lincoln
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« Reply #64 on: October 20, 2012, 01:51:11 AM » |
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Ok, this is a terrible drawing of a very secure knot. Can ONLY be tied with lube. Once you get the hang of it, it's very quick to tie.
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Yak 52
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« Reply #65 on: October 20, 2012, 06:10:36 AM » |
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Thanks for the suggestions, I'll have a try with those. I hadn't managed to make up motors before the session and I was in a hurry. I'd had a few motors break from nicks etc so was trying to avoid damage on the knot and obviously didn't tighten it enough  It still got to over 1100 turns before it slipped, after quite a few successful flights on less turns. I like the idea of putting the damage on the 'outside' Tony, in your video is the intial knot a reef knot? Jon |
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BEAR
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« Reply #66 on: October 21, 2012, 05:23:02 AM » |
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I saw this little Cub in the flesh at this indoor meeting, what a loverly job of building and covering and the flights in the hall were most impressive the model used almost the whole width of the hall and flying speed was spot on Was so impressed that I give up lol |
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If you cant take a joke dont do free flight.
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Yak 52
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« Reply #67 on: October 21, 2012, 05:43:03 AM » |
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Cheers Kev! Kudos is really due to Scigs for a sweet design ... |
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Yak 52
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« Reply #68 on: October 30, 2012, 02:22:05 PM » |
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Had a few nice flights with the Cub at Impington on Sunday. Didn't really time any flights as I ran out of time while still trimming. As I started to rack up the turns I found it needed more 'out' thrust (right) and more 'in' rudder (left) to stop the circle opening out. I started with 1/8th rubber about 16" but found it too powerful so moved on to a longer motor of 20.5", this was definitely better but still too powerful and I hit the ceiling and rafters on a couple of flights. Moving down to 7/64 proved too weak to get a good climb, so I ended up with the long 1/8th again but backing off the winds to lose some of the initial the torque burst. This seemed to be working. Only got to flights on video, one hitting the wall and another taking out another model. Fortunately the pilot didn't seem to shaken up and carried on https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XjS2whTo6p4https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8-pSlyEbt6MJon |
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« Last Edit: October 30, 2012, 04:21:55 PM by Yak52 »
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atesus
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« Reply #69 on: October 30, 2012, 05:14:57 PM » |
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The Cub is flying very well indeed. It was funny that it still wanted to go back to flying after the midair . Congrats! |
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OZPAF
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« Reply #70 on: October 30, 2012, 08:00:12 PM » |
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It looks great flying at that nice slow speed Jon.
John
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Yak 52
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« Reply #71 on: July 06, 2013, 08:52:44 AM » |
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Just a little update: mainly to say a big thank you to Scigs for designing such a sweet little model. It's a great flier and has a lovely docile character. I'd recommend it to anyone Mine is pretty beaten up now but it just keeps on going. I flew it outside for the first time yesterday in perfect conditions, no wind and light thermals. I was using a shortish 3/16 motor which gave a crazy spiral climb to around 150 plus feet but then allowing the noseblock to fall out as a d/t. In spite of intentionally not trying too hard, the model did a few decent flights including one of 2:10. Great fun |
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scigs30
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« Reply #72 on: July 06, 2013, 06:55:46 PM » |
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I am glad you like, she is a lot of fun and I lost mine in a thermal.
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Yak 52
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« Reply #73 on: July 07, 2013, 07:55:47 AM » |
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I'm not surprised! |
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Yak 52
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« Reply #74 on: August 13, 2013, 01:43:44 PM » |
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My Boston Cub has given me a lot of fun but I thought it was time to send her back to Piper for an upgrade. The riggers inform me they will be finished in time for the Flying Aces...
Weight of the wood is 2.5g per float.
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