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Author Topic: Show Your Newest Creation  (Read 95748 times)
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olddog
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« Reply #25 on: February 23, 2012, 10:19:35 PM »

If your knee deep in alligators, it's hard to remind yourself that your initial objective was to drain the swamp.  Thats part of an old saying about planning in advance, but let yourself get in too deep. Ron
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Yak 52
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« Reply #26 on: February 24, 2012, 05:59:17 AM »

Thanks Ron.

Lovely Bostonian Caley! I like the colours, what tissue did you use?

John, the Flybaby looks great - I have a soft spot for them. Is it a peanut?


Jon
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Eduardo Yamin
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« Reply #27 on: February 24, 2012, 06:23:22 AM »

Here´s my Four TOP PGI F1Gs for 2012 Argentina Nacionals that will begin next april 27.


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wordguy
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« Reply #28 on: February 24, 2012, 07:06:03 AM »

Yes Jon, the Flybaby is a p-nut.  Been thinking a bit about building another one, this time in bipe configuration.
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As it is not at all likely that any means of suspending the effect of air-resistance can ever be devised, a flying-machine must always be slow and cumbersome. . . . But as a means of amusement, the idea of aerial travel has great promise.

— T. Baron Russell, 'A hundred Years Hence,' 1905
crashcaley
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« Reply #29 on: February 24, 2012, 09:44:31 AM »

Jon,  It is Easy Built tissue I had laying around.  The model is one of my usual porkers.  Weighs 21 grams with nose weight.   Sad  Caley
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What's stall speed?  Undecided
Yak 52
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« Reply #30 on: February 24, 2012, 10:05:52 AM »

That's not too bad  Grin Will be a lot of fun outdoors with enough rubber in it. Looks stable enough to handle it too... Make sure you give us a flight report  Smiley
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ram
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« Reply #31 on: February 24, 2012, 10:17:17 AM »

Here´s my Four TOP PGI F1Gs for 2012 Argentina Nacionals that will begin next april 27.


Eduardo,

Very nice Coupes.  Is the drooped tailboom a purposeful design feature?

Rey
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« Reply #32 on: February 24, 2012, 01:29:06 PM »

Very nice bostonian Caley.. And a classy choice of 'display stand ' too..Smiley
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« Reply #33 on: February 24, 2012, 05:08:19 PM »

Here´s my Four TOP PGI F1Gs for 2012 Argentina Nacionals that will begin next april 27.


Eduardo,

Very nice Coupes.  Is the drooped tailboom a purposeful design feature?

Rey

This dropped tailboom is to lower the CG and to take the tailplane out of the downwash.
This is tipical PGI design originated by Jean Wantzenriether from france.

See more info in my blog:
http://www.eduardoyamin.blogspot.com/search/label/PGI

In english here:
http://freeflightquarterly.blogspot.com/2012/01/rubber-model-trimming-via-pgi-and-top.html

Regards
EY

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DerekMc
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« Reply #34 on: February 24, 2012, 06:08:30 PM »

Here´s my Four TOP PGI F1Gs for 2012 Argentina Nacionals that will begin next april 27.




Awesome!
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Derek
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« Reply #35 on: February 26, 2012, 04:05:28 PM »

After way too much time, I've finally gotten some pictures ready to post.

The Bellanca Skyrocket is about 3/4 size from Flyline plans - gives it about a 25" wingspan.  That allowed me to use 1/16" square balsa on the fuselage, and 1/32" thick ribs.  I've been working on the engine, which since it's exposed, needs to have a fair amount of detail.  I've got the cylinder heads done, just not photographed now.  The cylinders are alternating disks of 1/64" balsa.

The Piper Cub is from Shorty's Basement, and is the West Wings laser-cut kit.

Justin
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wordguy
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« Reply #36 on: February 26, 2012, 04:54:45 PM »

Crash, think I built 3 "Pups."  Hung got one, a 'plane eating tree another, and I think the third finally disintegrated on the roof of a school in Aurora, Colorado.  Yours is much prettier than any of mine were.
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As it is not at all likely that any means of suspending the effect of air-resistance can ever be devised, a flying-machine must always be slow and cumbersome. . . . But as a means of amusement, the idea of aerial travel has great promise.

— T. Baron Russell, 'A hundred Years Hence,' 1905
crashcaley
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« Reply #37 on: February 26, 2012, 05:18:51 PM »

Justin, Very nice work.  I especially like the Cubby.  I'm kinda partial to Cubs.   Smiley

Wordguy,  Glad your Pups flew well.  I've never had much luck with little models, and this one is no different.  I've tried glide testing and it doesn't want to with any kind of adjustment.  I think I built something wrong.  I'll keep fiddlin with it in the hopes I find something I am missing.  Caley
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What's stall speed?  Undecided
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« Reply #38 on: February 26, 2012, 10:36:58 PM »

Caley Ann
Have you tried backing away from it a few steps and make sure you have every thing lined up wright
between the stab and wings and the rudder ?
If I have trouble most of the time I find out I missed the mark on lining up the stabilizer or rudder with
one or the other ,next is the set of the wing to the fuse and then balance !!
just a thought Mam !
George
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crashcaley
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« Reply #39 on: February 26, 2012, 10:54:51 PM »

George, I have something even better for checking flying surface alignment.  It is a magnetic building board that has a grid pattern of 1/4 inch squares.  Everything gets aligned according to the lines that create those squares.  I used to use graph paper until I got this board a few years ago.  Caley
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What's stall speed?  Undecided
Dave Andreski
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« Reply #40 on: February 27, 2012, 08:42:19 AM »

Justin,
Your Skyrocket looks fantastic!
Dave Andreski
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« Reply #41 on: February 27, 2012, 09:11:16 AM »

Warhawk, the Bellanca is a thing of beauty.  Am I correct that the cowl is x-grained balsa?  A sweet solution IMHO; assume that it is hollowed-out?  How thin were you able to make the walls and still have sufficient strength?
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As it is not at all likely that any means of suspending the effect of air-resistance can ever be devised, a flying-machine must always be slow and cumbersome. . . . But as a means of amusement, the idea of aerial travel has great promise.

— T. Baron Russell, 'A hundred Years Hence,' 1905
Warhawk
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« Reply #42 on: February 27, 2012, 11:54:43 AM »

Caley,

On the Cub; I was a bit disappointed as to the fit of some of the parts - they came in undersized by about 1/16" on the wingtip and tail parts, but the fuselage parts seemed to be correct.  I ended up making laminated flying surfaces and wingtips.  I've made some other modifications, but I sort of like the wing mounts and strut arrangements - the wings are removable.  Weights look OK so far, keeping just under .5g/sq. in.  I'll post a picture when I get it done, but it may be a while based on how long it took to post the first one.

Dave & Wordguy,

Jury's still out on whether the arrangement is going to be strong enough, but I believe it will be.  The forward part was made from balsa disks 1/8" thick, rounded and tapered on the Dremel tool, then cut out the centers.  They are about 1/8" thick after the final internal sanding.  Behind them is a 1/64" ply disk, and behind that I used a jig to center the ply to the frame front former which has the rounded top and flat sides and bottom, with rounded corners.  I sheeted the top with pre-curved 1/16" and sides and bottom with 1/8". 

The engine crankcase was the 4th attempt - I ended up making two disks with marks at each corner, mounted them on a jig, and glued in 1/16" stringers at the corners to make a hamster cage, then infilled between the stringers with balsa.  Then sanded using the balsa infills as a guide.  Previous attempts to glue slats together failed since I didn't have good forms to use during the glue-up.  The crankcase rests on the 1/64" ply former, but I ground out the ends to make about a 1/2" hole through the center.  The front fariing is also the noseblock, and has a plug to fit into the crankcase hole.  Intent is to keep the cylinders and pushrods behind the noseblock, and hopefully get most of the down/rightthrust drilled into the fairing so I don't have to shim it.  I covered the firewall yesterday, so I should be able to finish building the motor now.  I have the cylinder heads made and painted, so I can start locating the pushrods and get ready to glue all that stuff on; then I'll be ready to make and locate the intake and exhaust piping.  I'm planning to make that mostly from balsa; I believe about 3/32" round should be about right.  Now to see if my Dremel tool lathe will work on stuff that thin - I think it will as long as I don't make the pieces too long.  I'd like to get 3 or 4 pipes from each stick, but I don't know if I can get that much yet.  I'll also have to figure out how to make the bends.  Fortunately, it looks like only 1 bend per "tube" - only 18 of them!  My wife asked why I didn't just buy an engine - I said "where's the fun in that?"

Justin

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wordguy
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« Reply #43 on: February 27, 2012, 12:18:24 PM »

Justin, I just blundered across a rather nice material for exhausts:  reeds, available as small as 1MMand up to nearly 1/4" in diameter from basket making folks for absurdly low prices.  Soak, bend around a suitably complex form, and allow to dry.  The intake manifolds on my Pfalz in the pnut section are fabricated this way, as are the manifolds on the Flybaby in this thread.  A positive JOY to work with as opposed to paper cylinders, etc.  Also available in oval cross-sections - yep, flexible "streamlined" struts!

Going to watch this build with a LOT of interest, as I think your cowl solution might address a lot of issues on future projects of my own (theft:  the surest form of flattery).

WRT engine crankcases, I shared your pain until (DUH!) I hit upon doing regular 3, 5, 7, 9, etc. polygons in CAD and using them as a template to cut a balsa crank-case.
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As it is not at all likely that any means of suspending the effect of air-resistance can ever be devised, a flying-machine must always be slow and cumbersome. . . . But as a means of amusement, the idea of aerial travel has great promise.

— T. Baron Russell, 'A hundred Years Hence,' 1905
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« Reply #44 on: February 27, 2012, 01:42:07 PM »

Wordguy,

Thanks for the reed idea.  I actually have a number of reed lengths; I'll see if I can get them to bend right. 

I don't have a problem getting the angles right on crankcase patterns; I have a problem getting them the right size and angles after cutting.   I seem to be able to sand in notches keeping a dot centered, but when it comes to cutting a perfect 40 deg angle, I can't get it right 9 times in a row!  I'd plead astigmatism, but that's supposed to be corrected with my glasses. . .

I've been thinking about the intake and exhaust connections, and right now, I believe that I may cut out some 1/62" disks for the flanges.  Not certain, but I may insert a small toothpick spike to connect the tubing onto.

Anyone have a source for that small vinyl tubing that was used on some model cars about 20 years ago?  I bought a couple of the plastic F1 racers and they had brake lines and spark plug wires made from vinyl tubing that was about 1/32" in diameter.

Justin
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wordguy
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« Reply #45 on: February 27, 2012, 02:17:43 PM »

Vinyl Tubing:  Ck fly tying shops for a material that used to be called "Larvae Lace" (there were also competitive products).  Used to imitate segmented insect bodies. 
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As it is not at all likely that any means of suspending the effect of air-resistance can ever be devised, a flying-machine must always be slow and cumbersome. . . . But as a means of amusement, the idea of aerial travel has great promise.

— T. Baron Russell, 'A hundred Years Hence,' 1905
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« Reply #46 on: February 27, 2012, 03:39:19 PM »

Moving along with  progress. Here is a rendition I have decided upon
for the FW 190 color scheme. Now the game here is to use colored tissue
only, however it turns out that most FW 190s had these weird, complex schems that
are an interprative challenge using colored tissue.
Here is my attempt to render a typically complex scheme. So far, from a distance,
it doesn't look bad.
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Yak 52
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« Reply #47 on: February 27, 2012, 06:41:52 PM »

It looks blinkin' good Mike! Is that two layers where the green is?
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crashcaley
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« Reply #48 on: February 27, 2012, 06:54:01 PM »

Mike, I agree with Jon, and am also curious how you did the different colours on the wings.  Since I can't paint worth a darn, layers of tissue seem to be an option.  I've had a dimescale Spit sitting nakie for several years, and sure would like to get it decent.   Grin  Caley
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ironmike
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« Reply #49 on: February 27, 2012, 08:33:31 PM »

Actually I put dom dark green over a dummy frame then
used some dk grey over it to see if it would show enough
green thru to give a grey/green look. Also the green esaki
 tissue used will fade quickly giving a lt green look over the 
dom lt grey. So yea it pays to try some tissue color
combos to get some useful perceived colors.

In your case I would use brown all over and overlay green.
Might work pretty good on a spit.
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