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Author Topic: Heron 1cc diesel - help needed  (Read 1222 times)
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Ian Easton
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« Reply #25 on: March 02, 2012, 10:08:05 AM »

Make sure there is not an airleak on the back plate. That can cause running problems. I think the Heron may actually have a very thin gasket there. Many times too the back plate can get warped from overtightning which can cause an air leak.
Ian
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Daithi
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Simplify - then add more lightness



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« Reply #26 on: March 02, 2012, 12:18:41 PM »

We used to make gaskets from ordinary brown wrapping paper - smear oil on the crankcase, rub the paper on and there's the template - just cut it out VERY carefully (pierce the screw holes with a pin and the screws themselves will ream them out)
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It's not that modelling is in my blood. My blood is on a LOT of balsa Wink
TimWescott
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« Reply #27 on: March 02, 2012, 04:24:15 PM »

Hi Mark,
I did manage to get the first run with the attached tank, but it tended to draw air, and I aso think that there is a leak in it.
The fuel does draw when I choke the intake. I did install a separate tank and did elevate it, which did help initially but then it flooded so I took it back down to neutral.
NVA? May I ask what you mean?
The head is still quite red, so I dont think it has had too much heat.

This sounds like a fuel feed problem.  Check your needle valve and back plate for leaks, use the freshest fuel you can find, and keep plugging at it.
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Manne
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« Reply #28 on: March 02, 2012, 08:36:21 PM »

Thanks for all the help, Fellas,
I think you have hit the nail on the head. I checked the back plate and it appeared to be slightly loose. I also noted that the head was a little loose, so I have remedied that. I will give it a go today and see if I can get it to go. The fuel is still a bit of a problem, but I will endeavour to find that ether!!!!!
Re the gasket, would a silicon gasket be ok, or is it too thin?
Manne.
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Daithi
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Simplify - then add more lightness



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« Reply #29 on: March 02, 2012, 09:07:51 PM »

Honestly - brown paper or thin card works great. That's what we used back in the days when Keil Kraft were still making that engine  Grin
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Ian Easton
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« Reply #30 on: March 02, 2012, 09:56:57 PM »

The original gaskets were very thin stuff - just a piece of brown paper as the other guys say would work.
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Manne
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« Reply #31 on: March 02, 2012, 10:54:08 PM »

Thanks Daithi, I will keep that in mind.
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Bryanair
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« Reply #32 on: March 15, 2012, 05:13:58 PM »

I once had an ETA 15 and the evening before a competition I accidently  dropped it on the workshop floor.  Come competition day and all it would do was run on the prime.  Back in the workshop I discovered a hairline crack in the backplate.
At another competition my DC Sabre would not run other than on the prime and that turned out to be the cylinder head coming unscrewed.  Sorry if this is all a bit late in the day but as the others have said I think this is where your problem will lie. 

Bryan
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Manne
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« Reply #33 on: March 18, 2012, 09:35:42 AM »

Great, thanks for the info. I have added a bit of ether from a QuickStart aerosol and have had a loner run, but it will not maintain anything longer than about 30 seconds. I will make a new backplate gasket and try some more ether. 
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Ian Easton
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« Reply #34 on: April 08, 2012, 04:39:18 PM »

How's the Heron going?
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BlueBaron
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« Reply #35 on: April 26, 2012, 02:31:05 PM »

Can use a playing card from a deck of cards to make gaskets from.  Smiley
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Manne
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« Reply #36 on: April 27, 2012, 04:06:38 AM »

Advances with getting the Heron running are on the back burner for a bit. (Life has got in the way, but I am starting to see daylight at the end of the tunnel).
I have the Heron mounted on a bench and see it as I walk into the workshop, so she cannot be forgotten.
I have a new gasket to cut and hopefully will give the old girl a spin over the weekend.
Thanks for all the replies.
Manne
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proctor
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« Reply #37 on: December 27, 2012, 04:40:14 PM »

One check is to screw down the contrapiston hard so that it actually stops the piston from moving. Then back it off a couple of turns, turn the engine by hand and see if it moves the contrapiston and then check to see how far it actually moved (if it fails, then there isn't enough compression)

It sould be able to push it back a couple of turns on the compression screw

Just about everything has been covered so far but I have often found diesels with a stuck contrapiston.
You can screw them down but they don't always follow when you back off compression, not because of lack
of compression, just plain gummed/laquered up. The only answer is to take cylinder out and carefully drift
contapiston up the cylinder to free it up. Only do this if you know contrapiston is not following ie you back
off compression, flick with a prime in and compression screw is loose. Kind of last resort though.  John
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