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Author Topic: Cessna Cardinal  (Read 2167 times)
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dslusarc
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« on: April 11, 2012, 10:55:58 PM »

Getting ready for the Kent indoor contest this weekend. For years we flew 6.2 gram minimum but that is no longer the case. I have some other lightweight no-cals from years ago but since Gampi is banned in the FAC those older models are now illegal so I had to build a new model with Esaki. So spent the past 2 days putting this together, Cessna Cardinal no-cal, it weighs in a 1.78 grams without the prop so should be about 2 grams with the prop.

Don
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Cessna Cardinal
Cessna Cardinal
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Broken Strands
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« Reply #1 on: April 14, 2012, 05:49:00 PM »

Don, this is cool.  The motor stick looks like a gold trim stripe above the orange.

Thanks for posting the pictures, I've read your online NoCal article and scratched my head when you mentioned wood sizes for the tail boom (tail boom?).

Now it's clear, without a tail boom on these lightweight NoCals the aft fuselage would have no strength in torsion, or in bending.

Have fun at Kent.



Bill
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dslusarc
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« Reply #2 on: April 17, 2012, 12:35:36 AM »

Well I have to say this model is a great flying model. It required no additional nose weight, I flew on a loop of .055 rubber about 15" long and got 6:10 from about 45 feet high. This was truly a model that flew right off the board. I am quite pleased with the performance.
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craig h
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« Reply #3 on: April 17, 2012, 06:40:29 AM »

Nice looking model Don,...job well done! How did you do the nose bearing ? And where did you get the plans? I wouldn't mind trying to build one.. for
 I have never built one. What size lumber does it require and the total weight that you go for.

  Thanks...Craig h
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« Reply #4 on: April 17, 2012, 08:33:25 AM »

Very nice.  I'd be interested in a picture of the front end--your propeller details and prophanger/bearing arrangement.

The Cardinal RG and Cessna 210 both make very nice no-cals...
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spacerod
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« Reply #5 on: April 17, 2012, 12:57:50 PM »

dslusarc
 Very nice. I would also like to see some details of your front end and prop.
Also , in the photo of your plane there appears to be some braces from
the top of the cockpit area to the motor stich/tube; or maybe I'm just seeing things?

Charlie Coeyman
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dslusarc
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« Reply #6 on: April 17, 2012, 10:56:08 PM »

Here are some close up photos. Prop is 10" diameter x 18" pitch. Majority of the outline is .025" x .050" strip wood with some .050" x .050" wood in strategic places. Wings spars are .045" x .075" and ribs cut form .030" sheet.
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Re: Cessna Cardinal
Re: Cessna Cardinal
Re: Cessna Cardinal
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lincoln
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« Reply #7 on: April 21, 2012, 09:50:56 PM »

I use a Harlan  pigtail bearing on my nocal. Works nicely.   Looks like Don is using one too.   http://www.indoorspecialties.com
You can also bend your own out of wire, but it's fiddly. Might be worth it for an EZB, perhaps.

I've only built one nocal, but it's worked out pretty well. A Wildcat done to the outlines of the Midwest kit, but with smaller wood and with a rolled motor tube. Not sure the latter is worth it. The Midwest kit had excellent wood in it, but that was many years ago. Originally came out at about 3 grams. Probably the tissue on mine weighs at least half as much as Don's whole plane. I couldn't seem to use a prop anywhere near as large as the one Don uses. My nocal has this neat (or not so neat) property that when it hits the ceiling it comes down sideways (90 degree bank, but fuse is horizontal!)  before correcting itself. Only last time it didn't correct itself. It even flew upside down for a while, still with the nose at a reasonable angle, before rolling over sideways again and hitting the floor. It flies fine if it doesn't hit anything.
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dslusarc
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« Reply #8 on: May 06, 2012, 11:47:36 PM »

Flew my Cardinal at an indoor contest today in Michigan. My two top flights were both 6:36 no touch. I would say I was about 60 feet up. Last flight was 5:50, I seem to have miscounted my winds so it did not climb as high on that list flight.   
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PaulBrad
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« Reply #9 on: May 07, 2012, 10:53:18 PM »

Great times Don. I am assuming the event in Michigan was the Cloudbusters annual indoor meet held in the Flint golf dome and that your excellent times put you in first place.

Paul Bradley
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dslusarc
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« Reply #10 on: May 08, 2012, 12:06:41 AM »

It was the Cloudbusters contest, the new site is much better than the old dome. It was at an indoor soccer facility. The air was excellent dead calm and no drift. I did get 1st, my dad got 2nd with his Lacey, he broke the 6 minute mark as well. We were trying to decide what was better the Cardinal with smaller wing at 2 grams or the Lacey with a bigger wing but ~3 gram weight. So I built one and he built the other. So far the Cardinal is better by about 20 seconds but the jury is still out if you ask me, only two contest for each model so far and prop rubber are still not optimized.     
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PaulBrad
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« Reply #11 on: May 09, 2012, 10:01:39 AM »

Thanks for the follow up information. It will be interesting to see which model seems to be the best as you have the opportunity to optimize the prop and rubber set ups. My gut says the smaller wing of the Cardinal may have a slight edge due to lower drag. I guess time will tell.

Paul Bradley
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rick121x
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« Reply #12 on: November 18, 2013, 04:36:49 PM »

If you don't mind, would you share details about the propeller? Dia., pitch, diameter and angle of shaping form, balsa density and grain...? I am still using the Paul Bradley design, generally needing the nose weight his design provides. Lately I am building a good deal lighter and may be able to utilize your prop information.

My no-cal motors are running out in about two minutes, and am hoping that a better prop would help that situation. Of course I have not approached a 2 gram plane, mine are running 3+ grams w/o prop, and that extra gram plus a heavy prop really keeps the times lower.

I am so very impressed with your flight times - a world apart from the two minutes I am achieving. And... would love to see a video of your Cardinal in flight.

Thank you, Richard Ranney
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willard
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« Reply #13 on: May 03, 2019, 12:39:09 PM »

Where can I find plans for the Cessna Cardinal ?  I would like to get more than one minute flying time on my No-Cal planes.
Thank you,
Willard
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lincoln
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« Reply #14 on: May 05, 2019, 03:21:05 AM »

Volar has a turbo Cessna 195 that's supposed to be for indoor. Haven't seen it myself. Also a Cessna 210 for outdoor. Short kits, if I'm not mistaken.
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Snaky Stringer
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« Reply #15 on: May 05, 2019, 07:26:33 AM »

I have a plan for a Peanut Cessna Cardinal by Nick de Carlis published by Model Builder. I'm sure it would be possible and probably not very difficult to modify it no-cal. I think it's still available somewhere. I'll have a look.
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Snaky Stringer
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« Reply #16 on: May 05, 2019, 07:28:44 AM »

Yes  on aerofred

https://aerofred.com/search.php?search_keywords=*cardinal*
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Indoorflyer
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« Reply #17 on: May 05, 2019, 10:11:10 AM »

There is a NOCAL Cessna Cardinal plan right here in the Hippocket plans gallery.

https://www.hippocketaeronautics.com/hpa_plans/details.php?image_id=5690&mode=search
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Snaky Stringer
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« Reply #18 on: May 05, 2019, 07:43:51 PM »

It looks very nice. I may have a go at it, as I've never tried a no-cal.
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cglynn
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« Reply #19 on: May 06, 2019, 03:09:17 PM »

No Cal is an excellent event.  Its a mostly scale event that results in a plane that can fly very well.

Build light, and fly to the right.  That's how we do it in C Town, and they fly very well that way.  For the Cardinal, and other similar sized NoCals, I like to reference F1L builds for wood dimensions (density, weight, and cross section).  The result is a light model that is sturdy enough to handle flight loads.

For a sub 3g nocal Cardinal with a 10"x18" prop, a good starting point for rubber is around 11" by 1g.  Sneak up on the torque to get to the ceiling, and then play with length and or cross section to get the most time. 

Lastly, when you build the model, try to set the middle of the hook to hook distance a the center of gravity.  You may need to deviate from the plans to do this.  When you do so, you can change motors without changing the CoG of the model.  Once you find a motor that the model and prop really like, you could build another with more of the motor in front of or behind the CoG, depending on if your model is nose heavy or tail heavy.  I know some of the local guys have dialed in the perfect motor and rear hook location so that the motor acts like nose weight.  Pretty clever stuff.

Hope that helps
Have fun
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