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Author Topic: Vargo-Wock.  (Read 4595 times)
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gossie
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« Reply #25 on: April 30, 2012, 05:55:08 PM »

Those that have built Wocks how have you held the wings on?   No dowels marked on the Vargo version on my plan.  Put them in anyway, pegs on top of wing? 

How about DTing it?   We don't/can't use fuse......too dangerous, so where have you put timers?   Fuselage is very narrow so if I put one into that the blast tube may/will hit it on the way in or the rubber may beat it to bits.  Suggestions???
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PeeTee
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« Reply #26 on: April 30, 2012, 07:03:54 PM »

Gos

I recall that Andrew Longhurst built one, and he put a Tomy in the bay in front of the wing, with the waggler poking through the top of the fus. I don't recall him having problems with timer damage. Obviously you'll need to put a short spacer or two in the side and top bays to support the tissue.

An alternative location is on the bottom of the fus, under the CofG. Have the winding knob protruding through the bottom of the fus, with the mechanics housed in a small 1/32" balsa box. I've done this with a Senator and a Scram, and both are unscathed (the Tomys that is) after many years of use.

Finally you could always resort to a viscous timer stuck on the outside - but I prefer the certainty of a Tomy, especially where we fly with loadsa trees.

I hope this provides food for thought.

Peter
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gossie
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« Reply #27 on: April 30, 2012, 10:01:41 PM »

Thanks. Food for thought for sure.

 I still feel with the fuselage being narrow and wanting to use a blast tube, that I have and fits perfectly, I can't afford to have anything hanging inside the fuselage.

I had thought perhaps setting it up in the top of the wing?Huh?   But then the line has to wind itself about from rear to there........Up on top is good on Senator the way the stab. is situated.   Ah, so much to worry about. LOL.
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flydean1
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« Reply #28 on: April 30, 2012, 11:08:59 PM »

You have some good suggestions for the timer installation.

Wing retention:  I made some temporary hooks bent in a squared "U"  shape which went under the fuselage and the hooks on either side of the fuselage.  Rubber bands secured the wings in place.  Then installed the motor and allowed it to unwind and be stopped with the flathead screw in the back of the noseblock.  This set the balance point to the in-flight position.  After moving the wing so that the model balanced at the correct point on the wing chord, I marked the spot and installed dowels with local reinforcing.  Then I discarded the wire hooks.
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gossie
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« Reply #29 on: May 01, 2012, 07:22:18 AM »

Thanks Dean.  Wing retention idea is terrific.
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gossie
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« Reply #30 on: May 04, 2012, 10:58:41 PM »

Vargo-Wock prop. assembly on the way.

Carved the prop. but with a little more thinning and fine sanding still needed.
 Could not stand to do the folding Chicago style hinge as on the plan, but in my draw of so much old stuff and trash I had a small brass hinge that I glued and bound to the prop. and the hub.  It works perfectly without any slop.   Legal or not that will do.
Prop. will be doped and tissue covered to finish it off.

The nose block is almost done also.  I seem to have run out of bearings so I cut some Teflon washers that have worked well on a couple of big rubber jobs I have here.  Need to make up a spring as yet as well, but it's all coming together.
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gossie
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« Reply #31 on: May 12, 2012, 12:38:19 AM »

Slowly getting a bit more done on the Vargo-Wock.

Need to tidy up the prop, tissue cover it then balance it.   Bit more sanding and a few more odds and ends on the rest of it, and it should be just about ready to cover.

Made a "Tomy Timer" yesterday, and have decided to put it in front of the wing on the LH fuselage side, but back enough so the prop. when folded does not hit it.   Don't want the rubber to beat it to death either, and want to get a blast tube into it whilst winding to the max. for a max.
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Bargle
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« Reply #32 on: May 12, 2012, 08:37:49 AM »

Good looking bones, Gossie.
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Dave Andreski
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« Reply #33 on: May 12, 2012, 02:18:50 PM »

Vargo-Wock prop. assembly on the way.

Carved the prop. but with a little more thinning and fine sanding still needed.
 Could not stand to do the folding Chicago style hinge as on the plan, but in my draw of so much old stuff and trash I had a small brass hinge that I glued and bound to the prop. and the hub.  It works perfectly without any slop.   Legal or not that will do.
Prop. will be doped and tissue covered to finish it off.

The nose block is almost done also.  I seem to have run out of bearings so I cut some Teflon washers that have worked well on a couple of big rubber jobs I have here.  Need to make up a spring as yet as well, but it's all coming together.

NO angle on the prop hub?
It wasn't needed?
Dave Andreski
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gossie
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« Reply #34 on: May 12, 2012, 05:49:07 PM »

Vargo-Wock prop. assembly on the way.

Carved the prop. but with a little more thinning and fine sanding still needed.
 Could not stand to do the folding Chicago style hinge as on the plan, but in my draw of so much old stuff and trash I had a small brass hinge that I glued and bound to the prop. and the hub.  It works perfectly without any slop.   Legal or not that will do.
Prop. will be doped and tissue covered to finish it off.

The nose block is almost done also.  I seem to have run out of bearings so I cut some Teflon washers that have worked well on a couple of big rubber jobs I have here.  Need to make up a spring as yet as well, but it's all coming together.

NO angle on the prop hub?
It wasn't needed?
Dave Andreski

There's angle on the prop. hub Dave, being built into the very front, and also a little angle the way the prop. shaft goes in as well.   Down thrust and right thrust built in.   
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Dave Andreski
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« Reply #35 on: May 12, 2012, 06:42:04 PM »

Thanks Gossie,
It was hard to see in the pics.
Dave Andreski
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applehoney
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« Reply #36 on: May 13, 2012, 01:02:33 AM »

Am wondering if Dave meant if any compound angle in the blade hinge to get a flat fold?
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gossie
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« Reply #37 on: May 13, 2012, 02:04:39 AM »

Am wondering if Dave meant if any compound angle in the blade hinge to get a flat fold?

No. 'fraid not.  I'm stoopid, and it does fold a little high in the side of the fuselage.  I need a good whipping. Roll Eyes
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Dave Andreski
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« Reply #38 on: May 13, 2012, 04:46:43 PM »

Am wondering if Dave meant if any compound angle in the blade hinge to get a flat fold?
Yes Jim,
That's what I was getting at but didn't say it quite correctly.
Thanks,
Dave Andreski
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gossie
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« Reply #39 on: May 13, 2012, 06:05:11 PM »

I can in fact adjust it later if need be.  I can unpick the binding and move things a bit, and rebind it.

I'll probably just finish it and give it a fly first to see how it goes.   It's mainly been built just because I wanted to.  My main rubber jobs are the Jeckyll and Hydes that I like flying best in anger.

I do think Vargo-Wock should be not too bad on a really windy day though.  It's a pretty tough little model, that should be easy to handle in the wind and a fast climber to get up there with that low pitch prop.
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gossie
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« Reply #40 on: May 13, 2012, 11:02:55 PM »

Okay okay you hawk eyes.......I fixed it.   Undid the binding and adjusted things so it folds correctly.  Here a pic I just took to prove it.

Thanks for picking me up on the error of my ways.    Grin
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applehoney
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« Reply #41 on: May 14, 2012, 01:14:55 AM »

Better !!!       Cheesy
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gossie
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« Reply #42 on: May 15, 2012, 05:29:05 AM »

Vargo-W is almost ready to be covered.   Cleaned up the fuselage, wings, tail and propeller today.

Just put it on the scale and it's fraction under 40 grams.  That includes the rear peg but not the Tomy timer.
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Modelace
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« Reply #43 on: May 15, 2012, 11:01:28 AM »

40 grams uncovered is super light! You should have a killer Old-Timer. I highly recommend gussets at the leading edge dihedral breaks, before covering. Do not ask how I came to that conclusion! Lips sealed
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Dave Andreski
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« Reply #44 on: May 15, 2012, 11:02:47 AM »

Looks like you're Vargowock will come in at a very respectable weight.
Dave Andreski
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gossie
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« Reply #45 on: May 15, 2012, 05:19:28 PM »

40 grams uncovered is super light! You should have a killer Old-Timer. I highly recommend gussets at the leading edge dihedral breaks, before covering. Do not ask how I came to that conclusion! Lips sealed

Okay, will do.  Thanks.
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gossie
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« Reply #46 on: May 16, 2012, 05:10:34 PM »

Last pic before the covering starts.

And I put gussets into the front of the wing, even though they are not on the plan.  Better to be safe than sorry.
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gossie
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« Reply #47 on: May 26, 2012, 10:36:52 PM »

Got the fuselage covered.  Single Esaki Lite.  Felt double covering was overkill.  Prop. also covered and balanced.  Tomy timer made up and glued to the outside of the fuselage.

Intend to build another stab.  The one I built first off I feel is far too weak and even has a warp in it off the board.   I shall use a full depth 1/8th spar, and harder LE and TE, and hang the extra couple of grams.
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craig h
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« Reply #48 on: May 27, 2012, 08:14:50 AM »

 Very nice plane..I wish though you would have shown and explained the prop assembley and making in more detail for us
learning more about this old beauties.
 Have a great time flying your new model...enjoyed following your build,

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Dave Andreski
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« Reply #49 on: May 27, 2012, 02:18:07 PM »

Howard ( Gossie),
Sure looks good!
Dave
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