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Author Topic: Swing Control  (Read 14644 times)
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sx976
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« Reply #250 on: July 29, 2020, 07:01:35 AM »

I want to use the same line spacings as Jim Walker. I noticed that one piece of balsa in the photo apparently came from the wing (19'' span), so I used that to scale the ply handle and bellcrank. I will have to scratch build the unusual wishbone bellcrank, but I have a control line handle that has exactly the same 109mm line spacing as the plywood one in the kit.

Chris P

I flew my four HQ Airgliders in our hall this morning. They fly beautifully!!
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« Reply #251 on: July 29, 2020, 07:43:01 PM »

The results should be interesting Chris.

John
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sx976
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« Reply #252 on: August 02, 2020, 02:23:53 AM »

I think so too!

Well, this is what it looks like. I was fortunately able to find my fretsaw to cut out the wishbone bellcrank. Haven't used it in years! I tried to locate the bellcrank and lead out guides similar to the P39 model. I was hoping to get close to 71g (2 1/2 ozs) and was delighted that it weighed in at 70g.

I would normally hide the bellcrank under the wing, but as it is something unusual, I put it on top.

I have rounded off the RH tip on all three Whippersnappers as this is the first point of impact when 'landing'. Otherwise the models have suffered little damage.

Just have to decide if I fly it on my heavy fibreglass pole, or wait until the carbon one arrives.

Chris P
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« Reply #253 on: May 26, 2021, 05:43:29 AM »

Flying activity has been drastically reduced due to Covid restrictions. I have been able to do a limited amount of flying and, to my disappointment, discovered that my P-40, FW-190 and P-47 all flew poorly. These were built before I generated the latest set of guidelines. I have modified the FW-190 and P-40 and both now fly perfectly. The P-47 needs more repair work than the other two and is still in the workshop. I am passing on the setup in case anyone is using my data for their own models.

The first 2 photos show the old setup with RC elevator. I removed the RC as it was of little use and moved the tethers and CG :

CG at 15% MAC. This required 35g of lead as far foward as possible.

The fuselage tether was moved to 20mm in front of the CG. The vertical height is on a horizontal line drawn from the tip guide.

The wing guide was removed from the tip to roughly 75% of the wing length from the root and 3 degrees forward of the fuselage tether.

Removing the RC left me with a handy adjustable elevator which is set with a locking device to about 3mm up.

The poorly flying (extreme outboard wing low) RC version weighed 262g, the new version without the RC 280g. The increase in weight is due to the lead being heavier than the RC.

My only remaining concern with the model is that the propeller included in the kit is plastic and I may have to replace it with something more robust. As an interim measure I have shortened the line so that with the pole raised, the model does not touch the ground.

Chris P
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« Reply #254 on: May 26, 2021, 05:57:17 AM »

As the FW-190 flew well, I modified the P-40 in exactly the same way. The P-40 did not have an RC elevator, so I separated the elevator from the tailplane and hinged it with doubled over lithoplate that I happened to have. I just bend the elevator to adjust it.

Due to the added lead, the P-40 now weighs 189g instead of the original 166g. It flies very nicely.

The P-40 also has a plastic prop which may need replacing.

The first photo is the old setup, the second photo the new.

Chris P
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« Reply #255 on: May 27, 2021, 06:35:20 AM »

About a year ago I built up an EPP 600mm span Sbach kit from Causemann Modellbau. It only cost around €30. It has proved to be a great flyer and is pretty much indestructible. I regretted not fitting a spinning prop and canopy. I couldn’t modify the model I had, so I bought a second kit. I used a model boat shaft as a bearing for the prop and fitted a nylon prop which won’t break too easily.
The fuselage is milled EPP and as a result a bit fuzzy in finish, so I don’t intend to try and paint it. It will just remain a rough and tumble model. (To get rid of the worst fuzz I used Scotch Brite Pads).
The old model with the painted canopy weighed 131g, and because the propshaft is well forward, it basically replaced lead in the old model. So the new one weighs a respectable 135g.
I didn't fit a hinged elevator. If trim adjustments are necessary, I can slit the tailplane and CA glue the setting in place. I have exactly the same setup as the original model, which didn't need any trimming, so I don't expect any significant issues.

Chris P
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« Reply #256 on: May 31, 2021, 03:37:51 AM »

The new Sbach flies great and looks good with the prop spinning. No trimming necessary, but I did mount the tailplane on both models at -3 degrees incidence, which is need as compensation for the very far forward CG. I feel confident now on how to set up these models.

Chris P
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« Reply #257 on: June 01, 2021, 02:23:52 AM »

It looks neat Chris. Hmm! - it almost seems to be begging for a electric motor  Smiley A new ballpark altogether.

John
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« Reply #258 on: June 01, 2021, 06:36:36 AM »

It looks neat Chris. Hmm! - it almost seems to be begging for a electric motor  Smiley A new ballpark altogether.

John

Thanks John. It is, of course, a shockflyer kit. So adding a motor would be full circle!

https://shop-rc.causemann.de/Sbach-300-60cm-Spannweite-EPP-Parkflyer-Shockflyer

Chris P

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« Reply #259 on: June 03, 2021, 02:00:30 AM »

A year ago I test flew the P-47. The model dived into the ground and ripped the outboard wing off as well as damaging the wing tips. I discovered that the wing was hollow and lacked little strength. I felt like binning it on the spot, put I put it in my cellar instead. A couple of weeks ago I decided to see if I could repair it. After all I could always bin it if the repair looked hopeless.
I removed the RC for the elevator control as I don't think it will add anything to the flying enjoyment. I inserted some square carbon tubes into the wing to reinforce it (passing through the fuselage) and glued it back on. Surprisingly the filler sanded down nicely. I think that was because I had coated the fuselage in diluted PVA glue before painting it, so I wasn't digging into the foam.
I relocated the fuselage and wing tether. In order to get the CG in the right place (15% MAC), I had to cram 70g of weight into the nose. I thought it wise to see if it even flew before starting with the cosmetic damage and repainting. I also left off the prop.
The model now weighed 321g. Hefty! I checked back with the original Michael Payne article and he stated the 'limit for comfortable flying' as 12 ozs = 340g. I was a bit worried as I think his models were quite a bit bigger than my P-47.
I flew the model on my outdoor pole & line. At the beginning it was flying a little outboard wing low, but as I increased flying speed the wing popped up level and it flew beautifully (very fast). The P-40 and FW-190 also have this pop up behaviour. However - the pull on the line was very strong and keeping the model flying was more like a workout than aeromodelling. I was actually concerned that the line could break! It tumbled a bit when it landed, but nothing broke. I think I will continue with making it look presentable again. However, I don't think this is way I should be building the models.
I feel that the biggest lesson learned is 'nose length'. A long nose Focke Wulf 190D would be a better choice which would avoid adding large amounts of lead. I have an unbuilt Hurricane from the same series, but now I don't intend to build it for whip control as the nose is very short.

Lessons learned!

Chris P
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« Reply #260 on: June 03, 2021, 02:09:43 AM »

I have also abandoned the F2C style team racer I was building. Shame, it is really beautiful! The nose is ridiculously short and, being a flying wing, needs the CG even further forward. I did a careful test flight, but it looks like it would need a house brick to get the CG in the right place.

The same lesson learned - Again!

Chris P
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