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Author Topic: UFAG C1 1/18th Scale Build  (Read 4450 times)
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dputt7
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« on: August 25, 2012, 04:17:38 AM »

Hi
Having spent most of my building time on Outdoor models lately, I decided to build up my dwindling Indoor models and after enjoying my recent electric Farman F190 build (  http://www.hippocketaeronautics.com/hpa_forum/index.php?topic=6497.msg87955#new  start at reply 31 ) I decided to incorporate the same motor combo into another scale model.  As WW1 2 seaters are amongst my favorites and I like the more unusual types I've decided on the UFAC C1.
This aircraft was built as a fast reconnaissance / bomber for the Austro Hungarian Army and was powered by a 230H.P. Hiero, it was developed out of the Brandenburg CII as can be seen by the familiar fuselage shape. Having a good 3-view I've settled on a scale of 1/18th, which works out at about 20'' span, this is big enough for my stiffening fingers to allow some detail and not too big for our Indoor venue. It will be traditional stick and tissue, with construction as close to full size as will allow. The aircraft I have chosen to model is actually a UFAG C1 built under licence by rival company Phoenix at the closing stages of the war, however, if someone comes up with a more interesting color profile this could change.
I will use an APO5 brushless motor with a 3amp ESC and a 200mah Li-Po controlled by either a K.P.Aero timer or a Z Tron simple free flight timer. The Z Tron does not have a decay setting so it will depend on how well the model flysas to which one I use, the decay on the K.P.timer allows for nice slow power on descent. After using a 100mah Li-Po in the Farman I decided to go to a larger capacity as I found while I can get about 10 flights per charge the duration and perfomance fall of after the first 3 or 4 flights.   OK so here we go  Grin Grin
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dputt7
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« Reply #1 on: August 25, 2012, 09:43:51 AM »

Not being one to draw up a full working plan, my first step was to draw out a structure onto my enlarged side view putting in uprights and cross braces at the points to pick up the undercarriage and the cabane struts. The photo's show the fuselage side assembled on the plan and then as the full size they were sheeted with light 1/32. The sides are quite curved at the front so I cut a balsa template and steamed the sides to match. Then they were aligned and the cross braces installed.
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dputt7
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« Reply #2 on: August 25, 2012, 09:54:56 AM »

Next up I bent up the undercarriage from .031" wire, this is held in place by sandwiching it between sheet balsa and then it was cynoed in place. Next up I soldered in the spreader bar and then the axle, this will let the wheel spring up on landing without hopefully doing any damage. Finally I sheeted the underside and sanded it smooth. That's all so far.
regards Dave
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sparkle
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« Reply #3 on: August 25, 2012, 05:48:00 PM »

  Grin Hi Dave you are charging along. ( no pun intended!) As usual a very obscure choice, but kind of cute. Not much dihedral and a small rudder, but I'm sure you know what to do about it. Looking forward to your progress. John D
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THB
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« Reply #4 on: August 26, 2012, 02:05:05 AM »

The sides are quite curved at the front so I cut a balsa template and steamed the sides to match. Then they were aligned and the cross braces installed.

Hi Dave - When the sides... front or back... are very curved - do you add a bit to keep the overall length correct? And is it best to do this afterwards or try to anticipate it when you make up the side frame at the start. Sometimes my fuselage tail ends up too short for the tailplane...  Not sure if I'm explaining this properly.
Nice project - looking forward to the progress.
Tim
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Tim
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Graham Banham
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« Reply #5 on: August 26, 2012, 03:38:59 AM »

Looks great Dave!

Incidentally, are the references you've shown from the Grosz/ Haddow/ Scheimer book 'Austro-Hungarian Army Aircraft of World War One'?

The blurb on it sounds great and i'm thinking of getting it. Apparently the second edition deletes all the colour side views as some doubt has been cast over their accuracy.

Graham
 
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dputt7
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« Reply #6 on: August 26, 2012, 05:45:04 AM »

Hi
Tim are you back already? The length of the curved sides were worked out with a piece of soft wire bent to match the curve then straightened out and remeasured. in this case it was 1/4'' longer so I added 1/8" to the front and back of the fuselage side frames.
 Graham, yes, the 3-view and photos come from Austro Hungarian Army Aircraft but the color profile is from K.u.k Luftfahrtruppe Photo Album 1914-1918 Volume one ( I don't think there is a second volume) This is a great Photo book with text in English. I bought my Austro-Hungarian Army Aircraft book about 10 years ago from Flying Machine Press for about $58 and I saw one in a bookshop here on Saturday for $199, it was wrapped in shrink wrap so I could not compare it with mine. But mine has no color profiles in it and as you probably know Peter M Gross writes the Windsock Datafiles on German aircraft and usually states in each one that he "wishes to refrain from expressing opinions regarding aircraft colors or camouflage" so maybe the first edition did have some color profiles that he objected to. It's always a problem with early aircraft to obtain accurate data on color so I usually find something that seems "about right" and go with that. If you follow Plastic Kit manufacturers they seem to be coming up with some very detailed and elaborate color schemes that have never appeared in the 50 odd years that I've been interested in the subject.
regards Dave
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dputt7
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« Reply #7 on: August 26, 2012, 08:36:25 AM »

Hi
I started to fit the formers for the top decking and then realised I needed to fit the cabane first. Photo 1
I decided on 3 degrees positive wing incidence (stab. at 0deg.)and started to mark it out on my side view when I discovered that is the scale setting so I was able to measure the cabane lengths straight off the original drawing. After a bit of bending I managed to get a pair of struts close to the same, I only mucked up one half. Next they were tack glued in place and I made up a card jig to check the alignment. After a bit of tweaking I sandwiched the wire to the fuselage. Next up the wing joiners were soldered in place and the bracing strut between the uprights added. It's amazing how rigid this makes the cabane. Finally I was able to sheet the top decking and cut out the cockpit opening. Still not quite recognisable yet but its on the way
regards Dave
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sparkle
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« Reply #8 on: August 26, 2012, 04:07:25 PM »

 Grin Interesting comments about colours for WW11 planes. Still charging along nicely. Good info on cabane templates too.
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dputt7
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« Reply #9 on: August 28, 2012, 10:05:58 AM »

Hi
Next up I've mounted the electrics on a tray, the idea being I can move the battery around to set the CofG. First I fitted a 2mm ply bulkhead to the front of the fuselage.  the tray is made of 2 cross laminations of 1/32" with 1/16" sides and glued to the the ply motor mount. The tray sits on a balsa support inside the fuselage and is located by two  1/8" dowels. The 1/4'' holes are for the neodymium magnets that keep it in place.  When the final position of the electrics are worked out they will be held in place with double sided tape. The motor shown is shorter than the one I intend to use but the mounting is the same. Hobby King seem to be temporarily out of stock of this motor but I do know a mate that will lend me one if I get stuck. I've been thinking about the wing construction, originally I was going to use sliced ribs with under camber, but as the section is very thin I doubt whether the spar will be deep enough to have adequate strength. As with most WW1 aircraft the spars are below the wing surface, though on one photo I have, it looks as though the spar is visible on the underside of the wing so I've decided to go with solid ribs with 3/4 deep spars fitted flush on the under surface, this should be a good compromise between scale and practicality.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
regards Dave
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dputt7
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« Reply #10 on: August 28, 2012, 10:30:41 AM »

MMMMMMMM  Roll Eyes Roll Eyes ; just knocking off for the night and "found" some 2 mm Carbon fiber rod. Might be ideal spar material, have to think about that  Grin Grin
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tross
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« Reply #11 on: August 28, 2012, 11:11:12 AM »

Dave,
I forgot your time zone.
Well, when you come out of your slumber.
Thanks for sharing the tray details, I've been curious about that. Neat stuff.
I don't think these will help, but maybe have a look and let me know if its anything.

Very nice work as always.

Tony
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Instructions: Step One...Assemble the pile of sticks shown in pic "A" to look like the model airplane shown in pic "B"........
sparkle
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« Reply #12 on: August 28, 2012, 03:56:39 PM »

 Grin Hi Dave, I like the electronics tray idea. Sorry can't help you with the carbon spars. Have thought of doing it though.
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dputt7
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« Reply #13 on: August 29, 2012, 10:39:06 AM »

Hi Tony
Thanks for your interest, your Morane looks very nice, is this a current build or is now finished. I wondered how rigid the flat spars are when covered. I was trying to get away from the spar on the top surface, just a pet hate of mine, but it is the most practical as with the spar on the bottom I always seem to end up with elliptical dihedral. I weighed the 2 mm Carbon fiber rod and enough for 2 spars in 4 wing panels is just over 4 grams where 3/32 square balsa is 1.2 grams, I can live with that. If I use round C.F. the ribs can be made in the stack method and I can use 2 mm bolts through holes in the template at the spar location, this should be more accurate for me rather than trying to make square holes in the ribs. There  are 10 ribs and 10 half ribs in each panel so any benefit in making the ribs easier to produce would be welcome. Anyway I'm still battling with the fuselage so I don't need to decide just yet.
John, how's that new project shaping up, made any decisions yet  Grin Grin
regards Dave
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tross
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« Reply #14 on: August 29, 2012, 06:32:16 PM »

Hi Dave,
Yes I'm most interested on your project.
I really like what you're doing there. The very thin undercamber wing era.
I think the carbon idea sounds like a good method (right for you) and I'm looking forward to when you get around to it.
If it works, I might try that also.
Mine is something I'm still fooling around with and is not covered. The wing weighs 3 grams without tissue and is 18" WS.
The ribs are only 9/64" tall at the thickest part, and the spars were a mistake at 3/32 wide. I was
cutting 14 guage stainless right before I cut the ribs and forgot to change the laser head. Roll Eyes Oops.
They were supposed to be 1/16" square, and ended up a little wide. Drats.
 I really didn't need width there, more height would have been nice, but not width.
I think my next try is full depth spars. Yikes... But that wouldn't help your pet hate.
That's a funny name for a pet by the way. Grin He (she) doesn't sound very friendly. Roll Eyes

Tony
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Instructions: Step One...Assemble the pile of sticks shown in pic "A" to look like the model airplane shown in pic "B"........
sparkle
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« Reply #15 on: August 30, 2012, 04:04:59 AM »

 Grin Hi Dave. I would think carbon spar and drilled ribs would give a strong accurate wing. Sorry haven't tried it.
   As for the new project, I will go for the smaller size. Easier to manage. I've got to work out how to stop the nacelles breaking off on hard landings. Once I've finished the plan and cut some wood I will post something.
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dputt7
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« Reply #16 on: August 31, 2012, 10:25:44 AM »

Hi
I've installed the rear gun ring, the ring was laminated around a suitable plastic container then glued to the fuselage. I spent the next 30 minutes trying to cut a paper template for the infill, in the end I gave up and using 1 mm balsa sanded it to fit. It turned out nothing like the shape I though it should Photo 1 The next photo shows the infill fitted . The gun ring on this aircraft was unusual in that it had small windows cut into the infills so the gunner could see below, I cut these out with a dremel. Finally I finished off the front of the fuselage fitting a hollowed block to form the prominent "hump" and fitted the sides of the cowling.
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dputt7
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« Reply #17 on: August 31, 2012, 10:49:23 AM »

After studying the tailplane shape I decided to laminate the outlines of each half including the curved shape of the trailing edge caused by the fabric shrinking against the wire trailing edge. I cut out a former from ply and then another piece to push against the trailing edge to form the shape. I glued some tongues to the back so as to align the pieces. I used 3 laminations of 1/32" to form the out line and glued with PVA. and wrapped with sticky tape to hold them in place while it dried. I don't think I'm describing this very well but the photos will show it better. I first made the form out of balsa but when I tried to form the shape it flattened the peak on the trailing edge. I hope this idea is interesting, I think I will use the idea again on the wing.
regards Dave
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danmellor
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« Reply #18 on: August 31, 2012, 02:25:58 PM »

Fabulous, Dave!

Looking forward to seeing this one finished.

Cheers,

Dan.
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sparkle
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« Reply #19 on: August 31, 2012, 04:39:21 PM »

 Grin  Fantastic attention to detail Dave. Any conclusions on using carbon spars? What glue will you stick them with?  John D
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Mark Braunlich
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« Reply #20 on: August 31, 2012, 05:04:59 PM »

Some color options:

http://wp.scn.ru/en/ww1/o/1081/175/0
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dputt7
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« Reply #21 on: September 01, 2012, 04:57:21 AM »

Thanks fellas
Mark I can rely on you for some scale info, i looked at that site originally but my computer must have been in rest mode as usual.
 Well I've made up the tailplane and I am pleased with the laminated outline. The elevator is hinged with thin copper wire.
I laminated the rudder but as the fin is sheeted ply on the full size, I cut this out of sheet 3/32 balsa.
regards Dave
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sparkle
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« Reply #22 on: September 01, 2012, 06:49:56 AM »

 Grin Looks like an aeroplane!
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« Reply #23 on: September 01, 2012, 11:14:42 AM »

Hi Dave

I'm interesting by your work,precise and well made as I can see.
Original the way of build directly on the 3 views but dangerous they often have some scale mistakes
it's for this reason I always redraw a scale plan before.

Cheers
JM


 
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dputt7
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« Reply #24 on: September 02, 2012, 08:48:28 AM »

Hi Jean Michel
Apart from not having as much skill as you in the drawing department, Grin it is very hard to confirm the accuracy of Scale drawings. Using the stated measurements as a guide, how accurate are they, for example out of the 4 or 5 references I have for this aircraft only 2 agree as to the span, now is that the projected span or the overall width, is the length stated the overall length or as some measurements are taken to the propellor hub. On an aircraft nearly 100 years old of which none survive , how can I check! The 3-view I am using is supposed to be from original factory drawings stored in the Austrian War Archive. When I use the printed drawings for wings and tailplane I copy only 1 half then flip the image and print or trace over the reversed plan held up to the light on a window. I guess you can say that this is not a true scale model but as I have no 1/18th scale pilot to fly it I have also made a 10% increase in span of the tailplane and height of the vertical surface, I consider this necessary to produce a good flying model.
Have you made a start on the Cauldron yet, I'm interested to see that  Smiley Smiley
regards Dave
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