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Author Topic: UFAG C1 1/18th Scale Build  (Read 4687 times)
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gloster
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« Reply #25 on: September 03, 2012, 08:47:54 AM »

Yo Dave!!

I have to finish the covering of the blackburn upper wing.
I have also some difficulties to confirm the order of a G43 engine to Stefan Gasparin, I don't know what is the problem???. hoping  nothing bad arrived to him (perhaps in holidays), so I let the blackburn finition in stand by for the moment and I would begin the Caudron certainely next week.

Cheers

JM

 

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dputt7
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« Reply #26 on: September 03, 2012, 10:25:02 AM »

Hi
JM I find it very hard to build more than 1 model at a time, if I start on a new project then it takes a long time to get back to it, Good luck with yours.
Meanwhile Ive been working on the wing construction, I always intended to use 2 spars per wing but in the end I decided to use only one  2mm C/F spar as the front main spar and a 3/32 square balsa spar for the rear, This saves on weight while it should be stronger than just balsa. First up I made up a form for the trailing edge, with all those double curves I needed to use clamps to pull the halves together. Photo 1  Then I cut out 2 rib templates from 1mm aluminium and drilled the spar holes so the rib blanks could be bolted between, I only had 3/4" long bolts so I can only do about 15 ribs at a time. Photo 2  I then used a 3/32" square file to shape the hole for the rear spar. It worked surprisingly well, by holding the rib each side of the hole and with the file vertical on the bench I just pushed it through. Photo3   In Photos 4 and 5 you can see the ribs fitted to the spars.
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dputt7
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« Reply #27 on: September 03, 2012, 10:44:21 AM »

In the first photo you can the see the wing assembled, I used a 3/32 square leading edge but a lot of that will go when it is shaped. I laminated the tips from 1/4" wide strips so I can carve and sand the tip to form the under camber.  Finally the wing was lifted from the board and sanded to shape. Some 1/4" block was used at the root, this will hold the locating dowels as this is a lower wing. The wing is quite rigid and weighs in at 3 grams, while on the heavy side for a rubber model it should be OK for electric. On a larger model you could maybe use C/F as a leading edge and then use only 1 spar at about 3/4 cord. Just an idea. Four more wing panels to go, just as well I enjoy this!  Grin Grin
regards Dave
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gloster
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« Reply #28 on: September 03, 2012, 11:45:50 AM »

Very nice job Dave seen from here  Grin  Grin, but what about the ribs profile perso or what ?

 JM
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sparkle
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« Reply #29 on: September 03, 2012, 03:31:01 PM »

 Grin Hi Dave, really nice work. will look very authentic when covered. Love that trailing edge!
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dputt7
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« Reply #30 on: September 04, 2012, 08:52:30 AM »

, but what about the ribs profile perso or what ?

 JM
Sorry J.M. I don't understand.
Dave
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wordguy
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« Reply #31 on: September 04, 2012, 09:23:07 AM »

The method for scalloping the TE of the wing is beautiful  Intend to shamelessly steal it at my first opportunity.
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As it is not at all likely that any means of suspending the effect of air-resistance can ever be devised, a flying-machine must always be slow and cumbersome. . . . But as a means of amusement, the idea of aerial travel has great promise.

— T. Baron Russell, 'A hundred Years Hence,' 1905
tross
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« Reply #32 on: September 04, 2012, 09:45:32 AM »

Dave,
It's looking very nice.
Very cool use of the CF.
I might need to borrow the bolt-thru rib procedure. Cheesy
Good stuff.

Tony
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Instructions: Step One...Assemble the pile of sticks shown in pic "A" to look like the model airplane shown in pic "B"........
dputt7
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« Reply #33 on: September 06, 2012, 10:15:53 AM »

Thanks Fellas
I started to fit the riblets on the lower wing, I cut them out using the aluminium template of the ribs but they would not line up correctly. I located them on top of the round C/F spar and onto the L/E but if they were only a few thousands different the end of the riblet would either be to high or to low. I ended up cutting out some oversize blanks and sanding them after fitting, This was a PAIN. Photo1  Next I thinned out the tip somewhat as it looked too thick. Photo 2. In photo 3 are the 2 lower wing panels.   To avoid the problem of the riblets on the top wing I decided to use full ribs so they located correctly and cut them to length after the L/E was installed. Photo 4  This worked much better, Photo 5
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gloster
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« Reply #34 on: September 06, 2012, 10:29:46 AM »

Hi Dave

I mean what kind of wing profile, is it a personal one ?

(Cool Stefan send me the G43 end of week Grin)

JM
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dputt7
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« Reply #35 on: September 06, 2012, 10:38:11 AM »

I looked at the top wing ailerons for a long time trying to decide whether to build them in or make a complete separate aileron.  The separate aileron won out, they just look more realistic. Another quirk was the rib spacing on the aileron, where the control horn attaches the rib is oddly spaced, this meant I had to make another jig to form the trailing edges for the top wings. In photo 1 you can see the wing assembled ready for the aileron. Photo2 shows the aileron in place with the T/E lifted up to form the prominent washout of the Ufag. Photo 3 shows the aileron trimmed and sanded to shape and in photo 4 you can see the washout. I wont make the ailerons adjustable, I will bevel the hinge line slightly so they "look" movable. Haven't started the other wing yet, thought I should post an update.
regards Dave
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dputt7
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« Reply #36 on: September 06, 2012, 10:42:17 AM »

Hi JM
Yes, it is based on the original but about .030" thicker, but after it has been sanded it's probably close to scale.
regards Dave
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sparkle
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« Reply #37 on: September 06, 2012, 04:00:37 PM »

 Grin  Loverly wings! You need patience to make 4 of them!
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dputt7
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« Reply #38 on: September 10, 2012, 09:12:38 AM »

Hi
I've done a bit more so here's an update, I finished the wing panels and constructed the center section, nothing much to say about any of that except I laminated the cutout in the center section using a male and female form to get the double curve.
When I was working out the wing construction I had a brilliant idea that I could drill a hole in the center of the C/F spar for the wing wire to fit into, so I made up a jig using some 2mm I.D. tube and a 1mm drill and drilled the hole. The jig worked well but when I fitted a piece of wire and applied a bit of load the spar shattered, O.K. not such a brilliant idea.
I used 2mm aluminium tube mounted in the wings in the end and a piece of flat ply with a cutout for the cabane struts to set up the wings and glue the tubes in the correct position. I used, .5mm ply facings on the center section ribs to help attach it to the wire cabane.That's it for now.
regards Dave
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PeeTee
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« Reply #39 on: September 10, 2012, 09:23:40 AM »

Dave

Hard luck about the spar. For the future be aware that you can get microtube of the same diameter which will take something like  1mm piano wire as a joiner. I've used 2mm as a leading edge before, and 1mm tube as a TE, with piano wire down the centre as the dihedral braces. I've had models cartwheel on the tips before now with no splitting of the tube; admittedly they were duration & not scale models, but the example is to give some idea of the robustness.

Cheers

Peter
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dputt7
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« Reply #40 on: September 10, 2012, 09:33:20 AM »

Hi Peter
Thanks for that info, I was fortunate to try the drilled spar before assembling the wing. I guess tubing is much stronger due to the arrangement of the fibers.
regards Dave
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dputt7
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« Reply #41 on: September 11, 2012, 10:10:54 AM »

Hi
I've been working on fairing the cabane struts, looking at some photos for details I suddenly realised I had put the diagonal brace the wrong way round !  So I carefully removed it and fitted the correct brace making sure to keep the alignment. I made up some u section strut fairings using 1.0mm and .8mm balsa to fit over the wires. The struts were cut to length and glued in place, and when dry they were sanded to shape. As the wires are visible on the inside of the fairings I will fill these with some dope and talc.
The undercarriage was much simpler, just 2 pieces of 1mm balsa sandwiched over the wire legs and then sanded to shape. A nice evenings work and some fiddly jobs out of the way.
regards Dave
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sparkle
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« Reply #42 on: September 11, 2012, 03:36:59 PM »

 Grin  Always good to get the fiddly jobs out of the way! Looks good.
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dputt7
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« Reply #43 on: September 13, 2012, 09:36:12 AM »

Hi
I've mounted the lower wings, first I cut out a .8mm ply sub rib and tack glued it to the root rib and drilled the holes for the locating dowels. Photo 1. Next I made up a couple of jigs to set the incidence, stagger and dihedral. Photo 2.
The sub rib was glued to the fuselage then I cut through the tacks holding it to the wing, drilled through the dowel holes in the sub rib and into the fuselage and fitted the dowels to the wing. This assured true alignment Photo3
Finally I fitted some wire hooks and drilled a hole for the retaining rubber band.
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dputt7
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« Reply #44 on: September 13, 2012, 09:58:57 AM »

Next up was to mount the struts, first I added some 1/8th balsa block to the strut positions in the wings. Photo1
The struts were made from 2 laminations of 1mm balsa with copper wire sandwiched between, in Photo2 you can also see the twisted wire "eyes" that attach the struts to the wing. I have just twisted the eyes into the blocks to work out the strut length, these will be glued in after the wings are covered and on final assembly the copper wire will be cut to size and the end bent up to retain the strut. This will allow the wing some flex hoping to prevent breakage on that heavy landing Photo 3.  Finally a couple of photos of the model so far.
Next is the most enjoyable part for me, some scale details  Grin Grin
regards Dave
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dputt7
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« Reply #45 on: September 15, 2012, 08:05:34 AM »

   230 H.p. Hiero !
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dputt7
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« Reply #46 on: September 16, 2012, 07:32:06 AM »

Schwarzlose M7?12 machine gun
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ironmike
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« Reply #47 on: September 16, 2012, 10:44:41 AM »

Davey
I love your detail and the instructive way
that you present sequence.
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Phugoid
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« Reply #48 on: September 16, 2012, 11:23:21 AM »

Your engine and machine gun are brilliant!

Andrew
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dputt7
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« Reply #49 on: September 18, 2012, 08:26:55 AM »

Hi
Thanks Mike and Andrew, I'm not to sure how interesting some of my building techniques are, I keep hoping for some input to show me a better way.  Grin
Been working out how to do the color scheme on the Ufag, the color profile that inspired me to build this model is in 2 tone grey and the paint was applied over the natural finish with a sponge or rag. It's not a solid color and the wood fuselage and linen wings show through. I have done some test pieces, in the photo the top rectangle is covered in buff tissue as the wings and the paint was applied with a rag on the left and a sponge on the right, the lower panel is covered in brown tissue as the fuselage and the paint applied with a rag. It looks TERRIBLE Shocked, however, the PHOTO of the test pieces looks very much like the photos of the original  Roll Eyes. There is another scheme called the "Saw Tooth" camouflage that shows up in may places painted in mustard and green. I did some research on this and it appears the colors were taken from the only remaining
A-H aircraft in original paint. Recently this aircraft has been restored and after much cleaning it was discovered the paint was actually 2 shades of grey, they even quote Methuen numbers for the correct shades. I have a nice black and white photo of a C-1 in Saw Tooth camo so going by these findings I feel confident I can do a reasonably accurate representation of this aircraft.
Any opinions?regards Dave
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