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Author Topic: UFAG C1 1/18th Scale Build  (Read 4447 times)
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sparkle
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« Reply #75 on: October 06, 2012, 08:28:15 AM »

 Cool Cool Cool
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dputt7
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« Reply #76 on: October 08, 2012, 06:45:48 AM »

Hi
I'm still fiddling about finishing off some detail work. I haven't got any reference for the instrument panel so I've just made a generic type panel. Made from 1/32" balsa and covered with colored tissue, the instruments were downloaded from the plans gallery and covered with sticky tape to represent the glass while the rims are painted plastic tube, the fuel tap and switch are just bits and pieces. When fitted and the pilot in the way it looks reasonable. The cockpit edging is made from a shoe lace and the pilot is an old Skylake Models WWI foamie (yes John, it was all I had), complete with German style helmet. Hopefully Skylake will produce these again. I rigged the tail unit and the undercart with stretchy plastic thread used in jewellry making. About to start and rig the wings and then assemble the electrics.
regards Dave
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sparkle
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« Reply #77 on: October 11, 2012, 06:48:19 AM »

 Grin  Looking good Dave. Love the pilot's hat. How are you going with the snow? Don't fancy it myself!
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dputt7
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« Reply #78 on: October 12, 2012, 11:08:41 AM »

Hi
Well I've just spent a few frustrating nights working out my electrics. I thought I had it sorted but when I connected it all up I got a continuous beep from the ESC, I swapped all the components into another model and it worked OK so I figured it must be a problem in the wiring loom so I made another. This worked OK but after several tests the ESC failed, I had another new ESC so I tried that and it was faulty right out of the pakage. I'm using the XP 3A .7 gram ESC from Hobby King and Ive had one fail before, not sure if its just bad luck or they aren't that good. Anyway I've rewired it now with a 5 amp ESC that I had and its working fine.  I have fitted an on/off switch to the front of the tray so I don't have to remove the tray to start the motor. its quite small so its not that noticeable.
On a brighter note Ive got the rigging finished, I used stretchy plastic used in jewellry making and for the turnbuckles I used heat shrink tube that I shrunk so it would just slip over the rigging. I used a small wire hook where the landing wires connect to the cabane so the wings can be removed as an assembly.
OK that's done now all I have to do is try and make it fly  Roll Eyes
regards Dave
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dputt7
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« Reply #79 on: October 12, 2012, 11:10:37 AM »

..........and
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wordguy
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« Reply #80 on: October 12, 2012, 11:39:07 AM »

Start to finish, a superlative presentation of a build.  I started to make a list of how much of this build I will  steal, but it got embarrassingly long.

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As it is not at all likely that any means of suspending the effect of air-resistance can ever be devised, a flying-machine must always be slow and cumbersome. . . . But as a means of amusement, the idea of aerial travel has great promise.

— T. Baron Russell, 'A hundred Years Hence,' 1905
tross
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« Reply #81 on: October 12, 2012, 12:25:47 PM »

I was thinking I would just steal the plane. Cheesy
I'll wait until you get it to fly first, obviously. Grin
Fantastic!

Tony
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Instructions: Step One...Assemble the pile of sticks shown in pic "A" to look like the model airplane shown in pic "B"........
danmellor
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« Reply #82 on: October 12, 2012, 01:46:05 PM »

Fantastic indeed! Inspiring build...

Cheers,

Dan.
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sparkle
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« Reply #83 on: October 12, 2012, 05:26:41 PM »

 Cheesy Nice Dave. I've never used a speedy that small, so I don't know if they are dodgey. I like the electrics tray idea and the switch is practical. Looking forward to flying video, if it stops snowing! Grin
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« Reply #84 on: October 13, 2012, 11:39:04 AM »

Great build! I'm an infrequent visitor but I love your CI. This plane, along with the Phoenix CI, (another favourite), really represent a leap in A-H 2 seat development in 1918.

Martin
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dputt7
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« Reply #85 on: October 13, 2012, 10:31:52 PM »

Hi
Thanks for your kind remarks
Well I took the Ufag along to Indoor last night for a bit of a test flight, I was going to wait until I could trim it outside where the conditions are a bit more forgiving but......
     It took a while for me to come to grips with it but I did get it to fly. Remember those ailerons I decided to glue into position, well that was a mistake, i need to cut them out and make them adjustable so I can pick up the inside wing, I used some masking tape as a temporary cure so I know that will help. The other problem was I ran out of adjustment for down thrust, this was mainly due to me not accounting for the extra drag of all that rigging as well as being a biplane. It tuned out with one cell it was underpowered so I fitted a 2-cell pack and away it went. I ended up giving it some down elevator to compensate for lack of down thrust but naturally when the power ran down it landed heavily. I only had the timer set for about 25 seconds and managed about 3 or 4 circuits before landing heavily. I was a bit disappointed but after considering my concerns about lack of dihedral and fin area with some work it looks like it will be a flyer, after all they all don't fly straight off the board, least mine don't.  Grin
regards Dave
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Marty
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« Reply #86 on: October 14, 2012, 11:06:30 PM »

Great build, love your details! What do you have planned for you next build? I hope you post a thread on that too ,as I enjoyed reading this one. Again, really nice job Dave!
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yagua
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« Reply #87 on: October 15, 2012, 09:17:14 AM »

another museum quality model!!  Shocked Shocked
how do you guys keep buildding at such a high level???
where do I buy those skills??  :'( :'(
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27º19'54.94'' S
58º56'52.31'' W
HOME SWEET HOME!!
Tilou
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« Reply #88 on: October 17, 2012, 05:37:41 PM »

Very nice model. Smiley
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Phugoid
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« Reply #89 on: November 01, 2012, 05:01:59 PM »

A super build, and good to know that you got her to fly....

Much Respect!

Andrew
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billdennis747
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« Reply #90 on: June 09, 2014, 11:16:09 AM »

Dave
I was put on to this thread by THB from the ´went flying´topic.
That´s another one for my list, which gets longer as the remaining years start to become countable! I have a KP02 but no idea how big I would make this subject for it.
Dave Banks I´m sure does 1/18 pilots.
I have considered using lightweight carbon tubes from Mike Woodhouse as used on eg F1B tailplanes but can´t justify the cost. But 3.2mm tubes 40cm long at 0.8 long just cry out for wings to be built round them!
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dputt7
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« Reply #91 on: June 10, 2014, 04:13:48 AM »

Hi Bill
I'm a big fan of Derek Knight, his KPO1 allowed me to build lots of scale models I would have had no show of getting to fly other than electric. However the brushed motor has been well superseded by the brushless, they are very cheap, half the weight and nearly twice the power. The benefit of this is you can build a model the size you like then select a brushless motor with more thrust than is required and using one of K.P.s timers creep up on the power setting until you have enough to fly it. Using brushed motors there is very little scope if the model turns out with a high wing loading or even just a bit big, you cant add another loop of rubber or turn up the comp. screw. The KPO2 prop is very weak, I've made aluminium hubs for them but the blades then break, it needs a prop saver bolted to the front of the shaft so you can use a GWS style prop, then the 2mm prop screw is likely to bend, but I keep forgetting you fellas have stuff up there called grass. I just weighed a KPO2 at 35 grams and a brushless of twice the power was 18 grams.
If you are still keen to use the KPO2 then I would look at a model of around 24" span if you are talking about a full scale model (scale rib spacing and the like) they fly a 30" Cub nicely
Dave
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billdennis747
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« Reply #92 on: June 10, 2014, 04:22:14 AM »

But 3.2mm tubes 40cm long at 0.8 long just cry out for wings to be built round them!

that should be 0.8g of course.

Thanks for the advice Dave. Yes that makes sense about the brushless motors, although overnight my thoughts were moving to a Mills 75!
I must go through the thread again to find the source for the grey scheme because lots of representations are green/brown. Not that it matters much.
Any issues with the radiator? Gary Odgers found his Phonix was unstable until he took it off
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dputt7
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« Reply #93 on: June 10, 2014, 04:48:19 AM »

Mills .75 Now you're talking.
No issues with the radiator, Gary asked me the same thing, I also have an Aviatic trimotor that has 2 radiators on the top wing and no problems either.
I built this as an Indoor model but as usual it turned out heavier than I expected and while I did fly it indoors it needed all the hall, I could not get it to turn tight enough with out spiralling in. I guess this is due to lack of dihedral.
I think the book ref. is in the first post though I have read in other places about the 2 greys but you are right the greens seem more common but they are usually have the lozenge style pattern along the edges.
My carbon fibre came from Hobby King, it was cheap though I did buy enough to offset the postage.
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Graiskye
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« Reply #94 on: July 08, 2014, 08:36:49 PM »

 Super build Dave, really straight up tops.
 I get a real drive to go and build myself just looking at your pics, very inspiring to me I guess, and many others too by the looks of it.
 Only half way thru the thread so far but I just had the overwhelming urge to go and build a bit so...will finish her later.
Great stuff mate, crisp and clean just how I like em.
 Mike.
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dputt7
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« Reply #95 on: July 09, 2014, 03:37:56 AM »

Thanks for your kind words Mike, hope your building went well.
regards Dave
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