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Author Topic: Farman F190  (Read 5516 times)
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Ian Melville
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« Reply #100 on: March 13, 2013, 02:57:57 AM »

Looks great, but have you tried painting PTFE tape? Isn't it used on non-stick pans?
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Phugoid
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« Reply #101 on: March 13, 2013, 08:40:32 AM »

My guess is you can't paint it....
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Pete Fardell
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« Reply #102 on: March 13, 2013, 07:55:02 PM »

I shall wait till the wheels are done before posting pics of them, but initial experiments on the spare wheels revealed that you CAN paint PTFE tape, with acrylic paint at least, although I might need two coats for even coverage. I thought it might be due to the outer layer of watererd PVA glue I'd already put on, but out of curiousity I also tried to paint a bit of the raw tape, and that worked too.

(So be warned: don't ever try to fry acrylic paint or you may ruin your supposedly non-stick pan)
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Phugoid
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« Reply #103 on: March 14, 2013, 08:47:18 AM »

(So be warned: don't ever try to fry acrylic paint or you may ruin your supposedly non-stick pan)
Grin Cheesy

Well there you go!  I thought PTFE is slippery becuause things have difficulty bonding to it, but if your paint sticks then that's that!

Andrew
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Russ Lister
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« Reply #104 on: March 14, 2013, 08:02:50 PM »

Don't ever try frying PTFE either! .... it releases fluorine gas as I remember .... permanent lung damage if snorted.
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Pete Fardell
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« Reply #105 on: March 17, 2013, 01:15:31 PM »

Been making the dummy engine, into which fits the nose block. The cylinders are balsa, covered with insulation tape and then a layer double sided Sellotape. The latter was supposed to make it easier to get the cotton to stick evenly as I wound it on.

The pipes are straws and, for the smaller ones, narrow plastic dowel which is found railway modelling section of model shops. The advantage of it is that it can then be 'bent' to shape (sort of) with a soldering iron; a rather haphazard and nasty-fume-inducing job. The whole engine is a little bit bodged I know, but the painted result is good enough for me.
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Pete Fardell
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« Reply #106 on: March 18, 2013, 06:24:25 AM »

Engine in situ...
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Phugoid
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« Reply #107 on: March 18, 2013, 08:16:46 AM »

oooh, nearly there Pete!
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rgroener
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« Reply #108 on: March 19, 2013, 02:37:59 AM »

Pete, I like your engine!
I normaly chicken out when it coms to a dummy engine. But when I see your nice result, it seems to be worth to try it.
The most difficult part for me are the small tubes arround the motor....

Great plane, want to see it in the air!

Best regards Roman
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Pete Fardell
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« Reply #109 on: March 19, 2013, 05:48:52 AM »

Thanks, Roman. As you say, the small tubes are the hardest part, and my heat-bent (melted!) plastic ones were not entirely successful. I've since discovered, by accident, that that plastic can be bent quite far without any heat applied at all, which will be a neater option next time.
Hoping to start flight trimming on Sunday at the Manc Velodrome. Just got the wheels to finish and rear peg and she'll be ready for that. Then will just have the extra details like wing lights, aileron horns and tail control cables to put on.
Did the exhaust pipe yesterday. The copper paint is Tamiya Acrylic, which I really like- I think it's altogether better than the Humbrol equivalent I usually use.
Pete
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Pete Fardell
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« Reply #110 on: March 23, 2013, 07:05:49 PM »

Ready for flight trimming at the Velodrome tomorrow. I'll post a few more photos when properly complete as there are still a few details to add; control wires, pitot and a couple of lights, but apart from that she's about done!
All up weight, including the prop and a couple of loops of 1/8 rubber, is 62.5g.
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Pete Fardell
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« Reply #111 on: March 24, 2013, 09:19:22 PM »

I'm very happy with today's adventures at the Manchester Velodrome. It started inauspiciosly with a wing getting knocked off, but it went back on easily enough.  Had to add a ton of nose weight (actually 16.5g!!) to get the balance right, but after gradually upping the power as well, it flew. With a few more turns I can hopefully get beyond 15 seconds. I now realise that part of the problem is that the rear peg is too far back. I'm toying with the idea of making an alternative peg position just behind the wing. As the roof is still not fixed down this would be a fairly easy job. On the other hand perhaps I should leave well alone and just remember to have a more forward peg next time. I shall at least need to replace the blue-tac though, with something a bit less unsightly. Maybe a small anvil...
Here is some video of it from today (Thanks Dave Crompton for the first bit)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vWvGSaHeOaY
« Last Edit: March 24, 2013, 09:57:13 PM by Pete Fardell » Logged
Rich Moore
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« Reply #112 on: March 25, 2013, 05:27:27 AM »

Looking really good Pete.
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Phugoid
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« Reply #113 on: March 25, 2013, 06:14:58 AM »

Nice one Pete, looks great in the air!

Got that sound track sorted?

Andrew
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Andy Sephton
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« Reply #114 on: March 25, 2013, 05:30:18 PM »

Looks good Pete - it takes a lot of skill to get it to take off and land at the same point in the circle, too. Wink

If you want to shorten the distance between the nose and rear, rubber peg you could consider using a light spacer of thin wire or other suitable material to replace the rear half of the existing motor. You'll need to put more rubber into the front half to get the duration, but you should end up with less noseweight. And while we're on that subject, modelling clay, available from most art shops, is a fraction of the price of bluetack and several times heavier.
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Pete Fardell
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« Reply #115 on: March 25, 2013, 06:42:05 PM »

Thanks chaps! I have now moved the peg forward. The old peg sheeting near the tail wasn't entirely wasted either as that's where the elevator control cables go in.
This alteration is a departure for me; normally if I get a model flying even half well I am loathe to alter the set-up, but hopefully I'll not regret it. The motor was already quite short, so it should still fit in the remaining space. I've also changed the prop, but only because the other one had a split.  I usually get these grey Peck type props from SAMs, but lately they seem to always be the lighter grey ones which split more easily and are flimsier than the darker grey equivalents. I've just used my last of these old darker ones to replace the paler split one and I'm pleased to see the sturdier replacement is also a gram heavier. So that will cut down the need for extra lead/clay too and get more weight even further forward.
I'm hoping that so long as I carefully weight it so it still ends up balancing at the same point as before then I should get similar flight pattern as yesterday, but floatier.
Thanks for the tip re modelling clay vs blue-tac Andy, and Andrew D don't worry - I promise I haven't forgotten about the flickery film to music plan!
« Last Edit: March 25, 2013, 06:56:35 PM by Pete Fardell » Logged
Pete Fardell
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« Reply #116 on: March 26, 2013, 01:40:08 PM »

Finished the last bits of detailing, so here are some more photos. Only thing left to do is the dummy prop, but that can wait till after the Walsall meet.
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Pete Fardell
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« Reply #117 on: March 26, 2013, 01:44:46 PM »

Weight, without rubber is 57g. The motor I used on Sunday (4 loops of 3/32) weighs about 8g. That 57g doesn't include nose weight though which, even with the peg moved, looks like is still going to be a LOT.
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Pete Fardell
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« Reply #118 on: March 26, 2013, 01:53:11 PM »

Just one more, plus another shot of the real one. I must admit that having got it flying I'm now panicking a bit about the changes I've made. The great thing about the Velodrome is that it doesn't have walls, whereas I suspect the Walsall hall does! Huh
Someone tell me it will be fine please!
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Andy Sephton
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« Reply #119 on: March 26, 2013, 01:58:24 PM »

From what I've seen on the videos, you shouldn't have any problems Pete.

WIll you be bringing it to Bushfields (6th April) and/or Walsall (7th April) for trimming and will you be making a static prop - the correct answer to the last question is yes! Wink
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Pete Fardell
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« Reply #120 on: March 26, 2013, 02:12:16 PM »

Thanks Andy. I'm coming to Walsall I hope. This particular prototype was really a labour of love, so my static evidence is not all that I could wish (jazz musicians keep standing in the way of the plane  Roll Eyes). I therefore need every point I can get, so yes I'll certainly have a static prop done by the Nats!
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Graham Banham
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« Reply #121 on: March 26, 2013, 02:33:10 PM »

Looks great Pete,

Flight vids confirm that any weight you save by reducing the need for noseweight can only improve what looks to be a very promising flyer!
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Pete Fardell
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« Reply #122 on: April 14, 2013, 02:38:35 PM »

 I've spent rather a lot of this weekend cobbling together a scale prop, so here are a few last pics, just in case it meets its maker on Sunday. I also added.....door handles. But that is IT.
Roof now held down with little magnets. Many thanks Monique for steering me towards this idea. Until you demonstated the canopy on your Extra at Walsall, I never would have guessed how grippy or small those little magnets are. They're just the job and mean I won't have to glue the roof down at all, making changing the motor etc. much easier.
(Fokker D8 is also repaired. All struts strengthened and holes in the tissue carefully patched up- I even matched up the lozenges. Bring on those Nottingham walls!)
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« Reply #123 on: April 14, 2013, 03:42:07 PM »

Looks great Pete, looking forward to seeing it,

Jon
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Monz
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« Reply #124 on: April 14, 2013, 04:07:52 PM »

Looks great with that prop on Pete. No prob on the magnets, I was also surprised by how strong they are Smiley The Extra is staying at home though, with packing for moving I've not had a chance for any modelling so I'll just be learning the judging at the Nats.

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