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Author Topic: The sub 400mg EZB plunge!  (Read 12934 times)
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albisko
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« Reply #100 on: March 03, 2013, 08:06:19 PM »

New wing is covered and now just adding in the dihedral.
How to make a dihedral "cut"?
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dslusarc
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« Reply #101 on: March 03, 2013, 08:24:10 PM »

When I glue the wing together the tips are made from a separate piece of wood. I glue them together with minimal glue then after it is covered, I use a razor and cut the joint loose then reglue with the dihedral added. This time I make a stronger glue joint than before. 
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dslusarc
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« Reply #102 on: March 05, 2013, 12:10:32 AM »

I got the second EZB wing covered tonight. Needs to have dihedral added. But now time for bed! Here is a photo of the EZB wings next to my new F1D parts.
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dslusarc
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« Reply #103 on: March 07, 2013, 09:13:46 PM »

My new razor plane came yesterday, so I started messing with it and planed me a bunch of .005-.008" thick sheet. Need to do some fine tuning to the razor plane to get more of the .005" thick more consistently but this is a slick way to get EZB prop wood! This photo is of the planed sheets which I dipped in hot water then placed on a glass board to dry. Most of the sheets are about 18" long and 1" wide.

Don  
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jakepF1D
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« Reply #104 on: March 08, 2013, 02:49:51 PM »

This is interesting.  I have a 1920's Stanley #4 plane that I'm planning to restore.  It would be neat to plane some of my own prop sheet wood.  Where did you get the block you're planing?
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dslusarc
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« Reply #105 on: March 08, 2013, 04:49:46 PM »

Some SIG contest grade wood I already had from years ago.
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Dave Andreski
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« Reply #106 on: March 08, 2013, 04:55:34 PM »

Don, Which razor plane did you buy?
Thanks,
Dave
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dslusarc
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« Reply #107 on: March 08, 2013, 04:57:24 PM »

This one.

http://www.skykingrcproducts.com/accessories/david/david_razor_plane.html
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Dave Andreski
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« Reply #108 on: March 08, 2013, 05:00:47 PM »

Thanks Don.
I have one of those from a different source. Great tool.
Dave
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hastf1b
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« Reply #109 on: March 09, 2013, 10:01:18 AM »

The "David's" are very good. I use my for over 30 years.
I always make different strengths then I can work without change.

Heinz
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F1B is o.k.
dslusarc
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« Reply #110 on: March 11, 2013, 12:45:15 AM »

First photos is sawn cut blades next to shaved blades. The shaved blades are 60mg for the pair, which is not too bad. Just need some lighter wood stock to shave from but for some left over pieces of contest grade wood they are not too bad. The other photo is a block I found at the local hobbyshop this weekend, density is 3.6# so I will shave some prop wood off this block for sure. The wood was actually Midwest balsa. The hobby shop I was at just got a shipment or Midwest wood. I ended up getting about 10 sheets in the 4-5 pound range. Spent probably 45 minutes weighting all the wood they had, but it was worth it. 
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albisko
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« Reply #111 on: March 11, 2013, 05:36:46 AM »

my EZB continue....
wing (dry) 120mg
tail (dry) 30mg

more photos in picasa
https://plus.google.com/photos/100588849894345200054/albums?banner=pwa&gpsrc=pwrd1#photos/100588849894345200054/albums/5853993337028154529
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dslusarc
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« Reply #112 on: March 12, 2013, 07:48:02 AM »

Albisko, Keep up the good work!

I got to do more test flying yesterday and the new wing is super stiff. Almost excessively stiff but I did some tests and the model does not tuck or dive in when bumping the ceiling etc so it is a very good wing for any type of ceiling bumping. The bad news is that the prop I have simply sucks. It flares way too much either the blade is too much of a flare design or the spar is simply too weak. The prop cruises well but when torque is added the blades flare so much the model struggles to climb, I can barely get it to climb 15 feet on a half motor and once the prop settles down it cruises well. It acts like a VP prop stuck in high pitch too long. So I have cut some new spars from stiffer wood and also will glue the next set of blades on a with the spar a little more forward. 
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dslusarc
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« Reply #113 on: March 12, 2013, 11:33:20 PM »

Stripped some .020 x .020 4# balsa and glued to the spar to stiffen it. Props is much stronger now. Only added ~5 mg to the prop. I have a new set of blades for my new prop forming now.
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ykleetx
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« Reply #114 on: March 13, 2013, 02:41:53 AM »

It's hard to know if a very light flaring prop will work until you fly it.  Then you know.  I am a little conservative when it comes to prop spars, and I'm always amazed how light Larry Coslick's prop spars are.   You can get away with wimpier spars on a symmetric, non-flaring prop, but not as easily on a full-flaring prop.
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dslusarc
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« Reply #115 on: March 18, 2013, 01:19:13 AM »

My new prop is finished. The weight is 82mg but the spar is very stiff, perhaps too stiff but at least I now have a better idea of what it will probably need. The spar with hook was 32 mg compared to my old prop spar and hook were around 20mg. The reality of what I need is somewhere in the middle I think.  Test flying at the gym tomorrow evening. I will say an 300mg EZB compared to a 260mg is a world of difference in stiffness. This 300mg model will take bumps and keeps on going. The lighter version in my opinion most likely would not tolerate such activities. I think the lightest models may be best suited for big wide open sites where the chances of ceiling bumping and steering are minimal. 
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dslusarc
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« Reply #116 on: March 18, 2013, 11:39:44 PM »

Great day of test flying. The new prop is much better. I took out my half motor only put in 750 winds and it climbed up 18 feet and did about 8 minutes and this motor will take ~1200 turns so I was quite happy, it may be overpowered a little actually on this motor. This prop may best suited for USIC than Kent so will make a new prop to try and flare a little more now that I know what "too stiff" a spar is. Having gym flying session really helps iron these kinds of details out.
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ykleetx
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« Reply #117 on: March 19, 2013, 01:07:33 AM »

Coslick will bring his Cat II record model to Kent this year.   There will be some very light EZB's there. 
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dslusarc
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« Reply #118 on: March 31, 2013, 11:32:47 PM »

Found a sub 4# piece of C sheet so I planed some wood off of it. So here are a set of blades for my new EZB prop, this pair is 40 mg and the new spar is about 20 mg so hoping for about 65mg finished. The good thing with this planing is that a sheet of 1/16" x 1" wide and about 12 " long has yielded me enough wood for about 8 more props. 
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ykleetx
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« Reply #119 on: April 01, 2013, 12:53:05 AM »

That wood looks very nice.
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dslusarc
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« Reply #120 on: April 01, 2013, 07:49:40 AM »

Yes and it planed very well. The sheet I got it from was SIG contest grade 3" x 36" x 1/16" C grain sheet and the average weight of the sheet was 5# but the middle portion of the sheet was lighter when I held it up to the light. So I cut out the lighter section and it was around 3.7# density, the rest of the sheet around 6#. The 3.7# block I found at my local hobyshop is pretty much useless. I can not plane thinner than ~.010" or the wood crumbles like cork. So I then cut some strips for possible motor sticks or tailbooms but the wood is very weak like a noodle so I kind of gave up on that block so went back through my SIG wood shipment and found this light piece and I got nearly 100% success rate from planing pass. With this lighter prop and if I were to build a new wing less than 100 mg I will be back at 250 mg pretty easy. So I may build one more new model after Kent.
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green-man
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One of my F1D VP propeller hubs - weight 104 mg.



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« Reply #121 on: April 01, 2013, 08:10:03 AM »

Hi Don,

Do you happen to know if the 3.7 lb model shop block was from Ecuador or PNG? If it was very white, it was probably from PNG.

Nick.
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dslusarc
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« Reply #122 on: April 01, 2013, 12:49:14 PM »

The corky block from the model shop that I cannot shave is very white (almost lookslike it was bleached white) and from Midwest Balsa. Not sure where Midwest gets their wood from but much of the Midwest light wood I bought is white but this block is very white. The sheet I got these current EZB blades from is from Sig Mfg, and is a more brown/tan color., in fact all the wood I get from Sig is more brown and tan instead of white. Now some of the best wood I received from True Weight back about 10 years ago was whiter in color but now some of this whiter stuff seems weaker and "mushy". I would be interested in what experiences you have found. 
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dslusarc
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« Reply #123 on: April 02, 2013, 11:03:46 PM »

New prop is finished. Weight is 66mg, I am happy  Cheesy
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dslusarc
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« Reply #124 on: January 23, 2016, 10:41:05 PM »

Starting a new EZB. I am shooting for 250mg or less Smiley yes lots of ribs but they serve a purpose. It reduces the unsupported length of the spar to help column strength.
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