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Author Topic: Titebond Glue Differences?  (Read 5537 times)
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« Reply #25 on: August 24, 2011, 03:54:40 PM »

I have been using TiteBond II and III for building for the last eight years.  They have many advantages over C/A and the older celluloid based adhesives in safety, volatility, toxicity and are relatively hypo-allergenic. 

Yes, they can be rubbery, but that can be minimized by proper curing time.  They can be force cured in 20-30 minutes in a 200 degree (F) oven.  Do not go over 200 degrees since at 212 degrees the water in the uncured glue joints will boil and blow the joints apart.  This is a very handy technique when doing parts such as planked up cowlings, (or when working against a deadline.)   These glues are also microwave curable in 20-60 seconds, but home microwaves are very different from the ones used in industrial wood shops so I wouldn't recommend it.  And, look out if you ever put a model structure in a microwave and forget a pin! (See picture.)

Another way to make Titebond glues more "sandable" is to mix a small packet of Knox gelatin (Approx 1/2 teaspoon) in about two ounces of glue.  This works very well if you want to make a structure of laminated silkspan over a styrofoam core and dissolve the foam out after the silkspan shell is dry, sanded and painted. (Let one of these air dry, don't put it in the oven!)  You can make some very light, complex parts this way.  For example, you can make control surface skins with "ribs" showing by making styrofoam control surfaces and gluing heavy thread on them to simulate the rib spacing, laminating a couple of layers of silkspan or tissue over them and dissolving the foam out after the surface has been sanded and painted.  There are lots of other things this can be used for from wheel pants, cowlings, fairings, or even skins for complete models.  This technique works better with TiteBond I or Elmer's, but will work with II and III as well

In models where the structure will be covered with unpainted tissue, TiteBond III may have a color issue since it drys brown.

Qua sublata omnia praecepta legis
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« Reply #26 on: August 24, 2011, 04:36:59 PM »

That's some very interesting information.
Thank you for sharing.


Ron T
McCook Field - FAC
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« Reply #27 on: September 05, 2011, 09:38:27 AM »

you can find just about all you would like to know about the titebond glues here:


An interesting point is made that the expiration date is just a guide and what you need to look out for is the changing of the glue's consistancy in its physical state, ie a thickening and stringiness or color change that indicates the glue is not usable any longer. Also, they state that thinning the glue more than 5% weakens the bond, which has been my experience with thinned titebonds.
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« Reply #28 on: September 07, 2011, 07:54:04 PM »

I have used tight bond 1 and 2 for a long time with out problems of any kind unless I want to remove the
parts from each other in the wood shop that is almost not posible with out destroying the project  !
For my aircraft I mix just a little bit of dish soape in it if I know I am going to need to do heavey sanding on the parts to
get them to fit with other parts after sanding or for cosmedics of finish !
if the wood is old and verry dry you should not have trouble because the wood sucks in the glue with verry little left
on the sufrace !?!?
Also use verry little glue on the joints if you need to sand it verry heavy !
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Measure twice cut once

« Reply #29 on: December 23, 2012, 04:47:02 PM »

NO!  Shocked  Blades cannot be repaired if broken in two. Well, not if you value your profile (face).  Roll Eyes

Cut it twice and it's still too short!
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