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Author Topic: Car boot bargains  (Read 1420 times)
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Hovis
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« on: September 25, 2011, 10:22:03 AM »

I was pleased to find these for £2.50 each today.

I know they are non-classic/disposable engines but perhaps I could build some small CL planes for them.

From my searching, they look like Baby Bees? Are they 0.049in (0.8cc)? I think one is a SureStart (grey plastic rear)? I don't think that one has ever been used. The other one was locked up but I've freed it up and it looks fine.

Is the black plastic thing on the left something COX? the bloke said it was but I can't see how it would fit anywhere.

I don't have a glow clip so I'm going to try and start them holding my glow starter on top...
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RobC
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« Reply #1 on: September 28, 2011, 03:16:55 AM »

What you bought are Cox 049 reed engines, the bottom is a Babe Bee, the top is a "product" engine.

The needle in the packet is for a TeeDee 049 so will not fit the two you have.

The last part appears to be a rear induction conversion that I am not familiar with. It would screw to the rear of the product engine I am guessing but without actually seeing it I wouldn't want to say it did definitely.

You need 1 1/2 volts to light up the glow plug and anything up to 30% nitro to really get them singing. Assuming they are used the rod to piston joint may need tightening too, lots of info on all things 049 on the net and I'm sure the plans section here has a few controlline plans for them too.

Cheers,
Rob
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Hovis
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« Reply #2 on: September 28, 2011, 05:06:23 AM »

Thanks Rob.

I got the Baby Bee working with Model Technics Quickstart 16 (because I had some!). This really for running RC cars. I checked details on this fuel:

Model Technics QwikFire is an 18% oil content (13% EDL and 5% Castor) with 16% nitromethane

It was quite hard to get going but ran OK in the end apart from after the first full tank, the glow head burnt out. After removing the head, there was a some small black carbon/soil like bits on the piston.

was this the wrong fuel? - did that cause it to burn out? I used a 1.2v nicad based glow starter - just pushed on top and held.

From my googling, it looks like I need to get some 25% Nitro fuel but 16% should be fine.  I've seen people mention that there should be a lot of castor oil in it?

Anyway, because I was having so much fun, I took the head off the other engine and did another run.  The head has survived, although it's a bit scratched since I haven't got a propper wrench!

Looking at the other engine inside (SureStart?), it's never been run before.

I'll definitely build a small CL model - perhaps a White Lightning.  It looks like I can put the Baby Bee tank on the back of the new engine, run it in and use that.
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PeeTee
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« Reply #3 on: September 28, 2011, 05:32:32 AM »

Hovis

In case you didn't know, you can get Cox spares (including the glow head spanner) in England, from Den's Models - web site here : http://www.densmodelsupplies.co.uk/about.php

Peter
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gossie
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« Reply #4 on: September 28, 2011, 07:45:05 AM »

An ideal safe mix for those engines is 50% methanol, 25% nitro and 25% castor.
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fredder
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« Reply #5 on: September 28, 2011, 10:28:11 AM »

Hello,
  With proper care and feeding, your 049's will last a long time...

  The debris you found is a probably a combination of dirt and old fuel, if the engine ran "hot" it also could be bits of the engine, the metal will fuse to the glo element and cause it to burn out..  :'(   disassemble, soak in alchohol, and gently clean.. reassemble, fuel, and have FUN!!!

  Fortunately there are glo-plug spares available in both original and extra crispy.. with nifty head adapters so you can use regular r/c plugs...  Grin

 
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Dave Andreski
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« Reply #6 on: September 28, 2011, 11:02:22 AM »

Christopher,
Do you mean DENATURED alcohol?
I have several motors that need cleaning.
Dave Andreski
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TimWescott
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« Reply #7 on: September 28, 2011, 11:12:57 AM »

Hopefully he meant Isopropyl, aka "rubbing" alcohol.  I prefer 90% or 99% if I can get it (the cheap stuff is 70%), because it leaves less water behind, although you still need to dry things out thoroughly.

Some synthetic oil seems to be OK in the fuel, but you definitely want to bring the total oil content up to 25%.  You can get castor from the drug store, and 8oz in one gallon of 18% fuel will bring you up to 23% or so, which seems to work OK in my engines.  I run between 10 and 20% nitro -- higher nitro gets you higher power, but it's not at all necessary.  You do need 1.5V for reliable starting, though -- a 1.2V Ni-starter is hit or miss with these things.  The higher compression ("TeeDee") heads probably benefit you more for low-nitro running than high -- those engines just like more compression than Cox gave them!

Mail-ordering some 25% oil fuel is probably cheaper in the long run than doctoring your fuel.
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fredder
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« Reply #8 on: September 28, 2011, 01:29:29 PM »

 Grin I just did an engine about 2 months ago for a friend and I used regular alchohol, I think it may have been 90 proof (%)  Grin

  Dave,

  any over the counter/pub stuff will work, I make sure everything is dry before I put back together. I do not put the gaskets in the alchohol, be real careful with the gaskets. they become brittle with age. I also use a small short,stiff,  bristled paintbrush and a toothbrush to aid in the cleaning of the engines..

 
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TimWescott
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« Reply #9 on: September 28, 2011, 01:46:16 PM »

Doesn't swishing an engine around in that stuff ruin the taste?

Of the tequila -- it would make the engine taste better, I suppose.
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Dave Andreski
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« Reply #10 on: September 28, 2011, 02:14:49 PM »

Christopher and Tim,
Thanks for the info. I have the 91% isopropyl alcohol.
After cleaning, should light weight oil be used during re-assembly?
Also, I have a quart of SIG Champion Fuel, 35% Nitro, 20% lube (half Castor & half Synthetic). It says "KLOTZ". I guess that's the 'synthetic' part.
This was the only fuel available at a place far from here, not mail ordered. Will this be too strong for my .020 Pee Wee's and .049 'Sure Starts' ? I won't be competing anywhere with my stuff. Should I order a less potent fuel? If I don't use this fuel in the engines, can I use it for general cleaning of engines? I'll be doing this during the Fall and Winter period
so have lots of time to get things going and learn.
I have a Mini-Tach that will come in handy I hope.

Thanks a million,
Dave Andreski
P.S. maybe I should post these questions in a different thread?
« Last Edit: September 28, 2011, 04:09:50 PM by Dave Andreski » Logged

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applehoney
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« Reply #11 on: September 28, 2011, 04:02:06 PM »

Dave, toss some castor into it to raise the lube level to about 25% and also reduce the nitro  - but don't worry about the latter. Cox's just love the stuff.

Use it for general cleaning?   Cleaning??   Shudder.....
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Dave Andreski
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« Reply #12 on: September 28, 2011, 04:13:31 PM »

Dave, toss some castor into it to raise the lube level to about 25% and also reduce the nitro  - but don't worry about the latter. Cox's just love the stuff.

Use it for general cleaning?   Cleaning??   Shudder.....

Jim,
Will drugstore castor oil do?

Thanks Jim,
Dave Andreski
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TimWescott
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« Reply #13 on: September 28, 2011, 06:50:20 PM »

Will drugstore castor oil do?
Yes.  You can also find castor oil at shops that cycle to motorcycle racers.

Cox engines like 35% nitro, but dope doesn't -- if you've finished with epoxy or well-dried Rustoleum then that fuel will be OK.  If you want your doped-on finish to survive, then mix the fuel 1/2 & 1/2 with 10 or 15% nitro fuel and adjust the castor oil as appropriate.
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« Reply #14 on: September 29, 2011, 06:52:46 AM »

I'd be a bit carefull with drugstore Castor!  Better to go to the Apothecary (the store where there is a REAL druggist/chemist) and ask for DE-GUMMED Castor.  Even then, the amount of de-gumming might not be adequate - unless you like to de-varnish your engines every couple of runs.
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Dave Andreski
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« Reply #15 on: September 29, 2011, 12:14:48 PM »

Thanks for all the help guys!
When I choose something to build I'll look for finishes that are more 'fuel proof'. I've heard of "Klass Kote" being a candidate.
As for the castor oil, a neighbor manages a local drugstore. I'll check with her.
Right now working at freeing up 'frozen' engines and needle valves. I think I have seven that will run but want to try the others eventually. One is a Black Widow. One is a Texaco, having the extra fin on the glow head.

Dave Andreski
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« Reply #16 on: September 29, 2011, 01:05:39 PM »

Thanks for all the help guys!
When I choose something to build I'll look for finishes that are more 'fuel proof'. I've heard of "Klass Kote" being a candidate.
As for the castor oil, a neighbor manages a local drugstore. I'll check with her.
Right now working at freeing up 'frozen' engines and needle valves. I think I have seven that will run but want to try the others eventually. One is a Black Widow. One is a Texaco, having the extra fin on the glow head.

Dave Andreski

Rustoleum protective gloss enamel actually seems to be quite nitro proof, if you can give it a while to dry.

See http://www.hippocketaeronautics.com/hpa_forum/index.php?topic=8798.0
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« Reply #17 on: July 23, 2014, 09:21:07 PM »

Thanks for all the help guys!
When I choose something to build I'll look for finishes that are more 'fuel proof'. I've heard of "Klass Kote" being a candidate.
As for the castor oil, a neighbor manages a local drugstore. I'll check with her.
Right now working at freeing up 'frozen' engines and needle valves. I think I have seven that will run but want to try the others eventually. One is a Black Widow. One is a Texaco, having the extra fin on the glow head.

Dave Andreski
I have the original Cox fuel formula if you're interested. The fuel varies between 10% and 30% nitro, but is ONLY 20% castor with a touch of synthetic. The .020 will love the 30% nitro. The texaco is a duration engine with low power. The black widow is a terror if everything is right. Reed valve problems are very common.
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« Reply #18 on: July 24, 2014, 09:05:58 AM »

When you do start to de-gunk those reed valve Cox motors and they have the original brass reeds, try to get replacement Teflon reeds.  Nitro does nasty things to brass - turning it brittle and, in the case of a "gunked" up engine, green.  That green stuff is deadly if left to be "cleaned by running" and WILL destroy the engine.

I've had great results with COVERITE "GlasKote" (don't know if it is still available) and it is probably the same stuff as Klass Kote.
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