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Author Topic: covering with silk  (Read 918 times)
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scullion
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« on: June 06, 2013, 02:31:44 AM »

I cover my models with silk initially stretched and pinned and followed by doping.  It's the edges that give me trouble since the silk (or nylon) won't easily stick down with dope, or other adhesives I've tried such as pritt gum.  It ends up with the LE and TE edges  ragged since sanding doesn't work well with these materials.  Any suggestions from other modellors?
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billdennis747
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« Reply #1 on: June 06, 2013, 02:56:37 AM »

Do you mean silk or nylon? Never had any problem with sticking silk with dope and sanding. Not many people single cover with silk, and pins are not needed.
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lincoln
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« Reply #2 on: June 06, 2013, 04:05:11 PM »

Haven't used silk yet, but I have found that a lot of dope isn't very sticky. However, Sig's Stix It or Fab Tac, which you can get from Aircraft Spruce, are very sticky.  You can also put some on the frame first. When I'm attaching tissue, I then just brush a little acetone through it to soften the Stix It and then it's nicely attached. But that's another material.

My impression is that people usually leave some overlap and trim the edges after they're stuck down.

Here's an unusual silk covering job!:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1516372&highlight=silk&page=17
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greggles47
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« Reply #3 on: June 11, 2013, 07:47:01 AM »

Pre dope the area to be covered, dampen the silk and dope it on. Stretch the silk as you go.

No issues.

That is using nitrate tautening dope. I don't know about other dopes.

Greg
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Black Arrow
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« Reply #4 on: June 19, 2013, 11:02:04 PM »

I always put at least two or three coats of clear dope on any wood I'm going to cover with silk and dope before actually applying the silk. I love covering with silk. It's generally easy to get really good results.
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greggles47
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« Reply #5 on: June 20, 2013, 05:09:52 AM »

When you're doping the silk, after it's attached, it helps to dope the silk over your head, so the silk surface is pointing down. This fills the weave quicker than doping in the usual manner.

G
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packardpursuit
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« Reply #6 on: June 22, 2013, 10:36:49 AM »

I know a fellow who covers small rubber scale ships (20"-24") with silk and does quite well. He uses a powdered gelatin disolved in hot water as a pre-dope. This fills the open weave and adds practically no weight. He finishes with a couple of thinned dope coats. He also suggest that a foam brush be used to lightly drag the coatings on, so as not to force the dope thru the covering.
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Bryanair
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« Reply #7 on: June 22, 2013, 12:22:30 PM »

This is not answering your direct question about sticking the edges down but may be of interest generally to anyone covering a model with silk.

Method used by Ramon Alban in the UK.

http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Downloads/CRB_Tasters/Silk01.html


Bryan
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ddillingham
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« Reply #8 on: October 06, 2019, 12:01:22 PM »

Paul Plecan states, in the 1963 March/April issue of American Modeler, add three coats of “undercoating” after applying silk and one layer of dope. He refers to “undercoating” as primer surfacer, primer sealer, sanding sealer or balsa fillercoat.
Is this standard practice?
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