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Author Topic: Help! I give up - what do y'all cover plans with?  (Read 4329 times)
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Greg Langelius
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« Reply #50 on: July 15, 2015, 08:07:20 AM »

I must have a higher percentage of Neanderthal genetics in my genome; because my building tools and methods have changed very little in the past 60 years. I still use balsa and tissue with cellulose acetate glues and dopes.

Never was a problem.

Greg
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BBailey
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« Reply #51 on: July 15, 2015, 04:50:51 PM »



"Wax paper is cheap, buy some and you can feel which side has more wax. Parchment is a dry and lumpy paper, I bake cookies with it, not build my models on it. That's me. You can even try this, Meat Cutters White Paper is paper on one side and Waxed paper on the other and FLAT when unrolled. Ask your meat cutter for a 6 ft piece and explain what you are doing. I have used that in earlier years to great success with spray Teflon. TEST, TEST, TEST!  They probably changed that like they have everything else."

When I made this statement I was NOT thinking about my situation then. I had and have a lot of great software for editing, plus a Nikon D200 10.2 MG on a stand PLUS other drafting equipment and basic CAM. When I used the "White" paper to cover plans I Had a Mutoh drafting machine, 48", used Ink, Pencil, and a cutter, I REALLY MISS that Machine. I would take a photo of the wing plan, or decal, or whatever I was working on, and print the full image myself or go to my Blueprint Shop for printing and have it all on the white paper to build. People have some much different stuff today I made an assumption. Obviously you can not cover your Plan with White Paper to glue parts without prep. A 48" scanner from my new Blueprint is $72,000.00 ... sort of drops me out of the market on Disability, or work where they have the equipment and I could use theirs.
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BBailey
BBailey
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« Reply #52 on: July 15, 2015, 05:31:17 PM »

HOW do you EDIT your Messages in this dang forum ... I try to change things I mis-spoke and I CAN NOT FIND AN EDIT for my OWN Messages.

The machine I said was $72,000.00 was NOT that much ... it was $7,200.00 ... there should be a button to EDIT your posts instead of all that Stupid Smiley Face CRAP. A USEFUL button would be much better
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BBailey
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« Reply #53 on: July 15, 2015, 08:17:16 PM »

Quote
HOW do you EDIT your Messages in this dang forum ... I try to change things I mis-spoke and I CAN NOT FIND AN EDIT for my OWN Messages.

For a short time after you post on the forum - there is a edit button available attached to the actual message. You can also preview and change at that point.

If I'm typing a long involved message - I prefer to write it in word and then copy it into the message box on HPA.

The old Mutoh track machines were great - I have fond memories as well.

John

PS the button is shown as MODIFY
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BBailey
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« Reply #54 on: July 16, 2015, 01:06:38 AM »

Thank you for that help ... I will look for that button. But I didn't see it until I ran across my Post a 2nd time. That $72,000.00 just floored me ... The Word Processor, I may have to do the same. I used to write responses in my Word Processor and cut-n-paste, it's a long PAIN! - but if the Basics are not available to you to use, I guess you have no choice. With all this technology and all these crap buttons all over, there should always be at least an useable EDIT Button available for your own Posts.
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Paul Zynda
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« Reply #55 on: November 15, 2015, 02:07:24 PM »

Has anyone tried using the clear film that is removed from the back of window tint before it is installed? It seems that if you go to a window tint shop and ask for this it would be plentiful and free. I was going to try this but haven't yet.
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azzanz
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« Reply #56 on: August 11, 2018, 06:02:02 AM »

i'm a bit busy to read the whole thread but i use kitchen cling film aka glad wrap.
nothing sticks to it ca or balsa cement.
hope that helps
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warped wing
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« Reply #57 on: January 14, 2020, 08:15:30 PM »

pardon my ignorance. at 63 i used silk, wet, then dope. are you guys talking the same thing, covering planes.? wings? if so wax paper, saran wrap? how can it be drawn tight?
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Jastafuhrer 13
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« Reply #58 on: January 14, 2020, 08:57:28 PM »

They're taking about plans not planes, ie what to keep your plane from sticking to your paper plan. I use parchment paper.
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Greg Langelius
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« Reply #59 on: January 15, 2020, 11:06:10 AM »

I've continued to use cellulose acetate glue all along, and have no issues covering plans with wax paper.

Back in the, '50's my Brothers and I would rub the places on the plans where joints occurred with Ivory soap. It worked OK, but the wax paper did it better.

My Brothers were building flying model planes during WWII.

Greg
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« Reply #60 on: January 15, 2020, 05:52:06 PM »

I generally use baking paper-the silanised non stick stuff. not the waxed stuff. Resists most glues-even cyano-though the latter does stick very slightly-but the paper peels of with care and structure vice versa...

 ChrisM
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« Reply #61 on: January 15, 2020, 07:27:40 PM »

58 or so years modeling and have used waxed paper almost exclusively. Never a problem regardless of adhesives.
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« Reply #62 on: June 18, 2021, 09:52:07 PM »

Back when cyano acrylate was new to aero-modelling, the original supplier of Hot Stuff described a method for fas,t no stick plan protection and assembly. The paper plan is, lightly stuck down to a smooth flat surface with a very light single  coat of 3M Spray 77. Then the entire plan was recived a heavyier coating and allowed to dry. When dry start placing your basa parts directly on the plan. There is still considerable tack to hold the parts tightly to the board and use of pins is almost entirely eliminated.  When tour structure is entrely assembled"dry", wicking CA into every joint. when done gently pry the assembly off the plan. CA does not adhere to the spray glue surface and will not ruin the plan, though it will darken the paper. When fully dry the plan can be removed from glass or ply or metal surface without tearing and rolled up without sticking to itself. I have severa FF plans so treated and stored. I would think this same method would work with thinned cellulous glues, applied with a syringe.
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FLYACE1946
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« Reply #63 on: June 18, 2021, 11:01:39 PM »

Try parchment paper.
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NormF
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« Reply #64 on: June 19, 2021, 12:41:19 AM »

An edit to reply #5. Evidently not all parchment paper is the same. Found Costco (Kirkland) brand to be very good.

Norm
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Duncan McBride
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« Reply #65 on: June 19, 2021, 11:22:21 AM »

I use parchment paper or laminating film, but I've found that if you are very frugal with the CA you can get by with nothing.  I use a little tool made from a craft needle.  I file or grind the eye end, leaving what looks like an extended 'Y'.  Drip a little puddle of CA onto a bottle cap or piece of parchment paper and you can load the needle up with a micro drop of CA, just enough to wick into the joint and if you are lucky, no further.  Usually the frames can be split apart with a blade very easily.   Thanks and a tip o' the hat to Dan Driscoll.
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Re: Help! I give up - what do y'all cover plans with?
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TimWescott
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« Reply #66 on: June 19, 2021, 05:07:49 PM »

...  I file or grind the eye end, leaving what looks like an extended 'Y'.  ...

I do the same thing, only by crimping the end of some .008" music wire into a bitty little hook.
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Duncan McBride
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« Reply #67 on: June 19, 2021, 09:04:07 PM »

good idea, I'll be doing that. It will work better to glue the wire to a balsa stick handle than pushing a needle into the end.  Every so often you need to use a flame to clean the dried CA off the wire, and when you go to wipe it with a tissue, it gets pulled out of the stick.  a wire loop can be glued more securely so you can really pull on it.  Nice.
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