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Author Topic: 20" Comet Taylorcraft  (Read 654 times)
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mkirda
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« on: December 09, 2013, 09:15:27 PM »

Having not built a scale model since I was in my teens, I tried the 20" Comet Taylorcraft.

A few mods were done - laminated tips for wings/stab/rudder. 1/32" sliced ribs for the wing with 1/32x1/8" approximate spar. All wood used was 5# with the exception of the wheel struts - Those are 7-8#.
Fuse used 1/20" instead of 1/16". I spent several hours scraping down a 7" prop and it is still somewhat heavy.
0.020x0.060" basswood for the wing struts. 0.013" wire for the wheels.
I used larger than intended plastic wheels as that was what I had on hand and the prop wouldn't clear with the smaller ones.
Yellow Esaki used, no other detailing done - This is just for fun.

I set it up just like I would a pennyplane. 2 degrees down, 2 degrees left. Touch of left wing washin. A bit of left rudder. AUW: 8.7 grams without rubber.

The thing is, it flew right off the board. I tried bending the elevator a touch up as the glide was too bricklike, but it doesn't really glide... Just comes down still under power.
Has a very nice wide flat circle.

HG Frautschy took a number of photos and gave me permission to post here:

Regards.
Mike Kirda

Attached files Thumbnail(s):
20" Comet Taylorcraft
20" Comet Taylorcraft
20" Comet Taylorcraft
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lincoln
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« Reply #1 on: December 09, 2013, 10:18:02 PM »

Very nice. Vintage character. However, it needs a wood prop! It's not too hard to carve them. Really. Probably less work than scraping that prop. I suppose a smaller, sturdier version of a pennyplane prop might be acceptable, as long as it was wood.

You build very light! I'm guessing you'd be able to break two minutes with that. Of course indoors, if you get into the "glide" it means the rubber was too fat or too short. But you knew that.
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mkirda
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« Reply #2 on: December 09, 2013, 10:50:30 PM »

Very nice. Vintage character. However, it needs a wood prop! It's not too hard to carve them. Really. Probably less work than scraping that prop. I suppose a smaller, sturdier version of a pennyplane prop might be acceptable, as long as it was wood.

You build very light! I'm guessing you'd be able to break two minutes with that. Of course indoors, if you get into the "glide" it means the rubber was too fat or too short. But you knew that.

Carve? No way!  Grin
15"P propblock with 3% arc camber, still 7" diameter. 1/32" thick sanded down to about 0.020" at the tips should do nicely.
I am a touch worried that I might need clay at the tail though I guess that means I could add a tailwheel/skid/something.

Only change I would make - Adding 'half' ribs in between the existing ribs. Tissue sinks too much between the ribs.

Regards.
Mike Kirda


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rgroener
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« Reply #3 on: December 10, 2013, 01:40:32 AM »

mkirda, very nice Tailorcraft and great pictures. Especially because they are taken indoor.
8.7 g for a 20" plane.... I am miles away.....

Thanks for sharing.
Roman
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« Reply #4 on: December 10, 2013, 09:15:23 AM »

That is a really nice looking model, and a superhuman effort on the weight!

Yellow Esaki used, no other detailing done - This is just for fun.

It's nice to hear someone build and fly just for fun, we sometimes do take this far too seriously!

Lovely

Andrew

Edit: Typo
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mkirda
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« Reply #5 on: December 14, 2013, 11:06:14 PM »

That is a really nice looking model, and a superhuman effort on the weight!

Hardly superhuman. I just used some of the techniques (and the same weight wood) used on a LPP as a basis.

Superhuman would be using 4.5# wood at 0.045" square for the fuse.
I suspect it could be done. I'm just not going to do it.

Regards.
Mike Kirda

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« Reply #6 on: December 15, 2013, 04:20:25 PM »

Fair enough!
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lincoln
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« Reply #7 on: December 17, 2013, 02:39:59 PM »

For reference, I think when it was new my Guillow Porterfield Zephyr with 5 lb wood and 16 inch span weighed about 5 grams. All 1/16" except for 1/32" ribs. Single covered, so I suppose I should add about 0.3 grams for the tissue on the bottom of the wing.
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