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Author Topic: 1/2A electric power system help ?  (Read 672 times)
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duck.co.za
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« on: September 02, 2014, 03:23:09 AM »

Anyone have any info on a 1/2A electric system ? I have a number of small brushless motors from my RC planes and was wondering if I could use my Rc stuff to convert CL to electric ? Thus using a transmitter and receiver rather than a timer ? As a package the electric stuff would seem to be heavier ?
Any info would be appreciated
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slipstick
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« Reply #1 on: September 02, 2014, 04:07:32 AM »

Plenty of people have done exactly that but there's still a bit of guesswork involved. It's easier to work from a specific plane than something generic like "1/2A" which could cover everything from 15" span solid wood profile trainers to much larger and often lighter stunt models.

If you allow somewhere around 120-150 watts/pound weight (more than for RC because you're dragging the lines round as well as just the plane) you should get something that flies pretty well. So I would guess that most 1/2A models would come out at somewhere around 150W. But I'm only guessing because I haven't done anything quite that small myself.

Steve
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duck.co.za
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« Reply #2 on: September 02, 2014, 10:52:41 AM »

Thanks for the reply
I want to build some Lil Wizards for my sons ( well I'm going to cut the bits and will get them to build them ? ) and thought if I went electric I could fly them almost anywhere .
Not so sure about the crashes and Lipo batteries !!! I have some motors that came out of pylon racers turning a 5X5 . I must do a test and see I don't pull to many amps with a 6X4 .
Any idea of the size battery to use , from a weight point of view ?
thanks Dave   
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carpetbagger
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« Reply #3 on: September 02, 2014, 06:28:59 PM »

I have 4 CL electric planes in the works now. My research claims a Tee Dee .049/.051 puts out about 90 watts and a standard Babe Bee around 45 watts. I plan to use 300 series electrics around 100 watt output depending on prop and see how it goes. This falls into slipstick's power zone about 150 watts per pound
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lincoln
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« Reply #4 on: September 02, 2014, 08:35:09 PM »

If you're flying 2 lipos and put 100 watts into the motor, that's about 12 amps. So if you're using a 20C battery, or are downrating a 30C battery to 20 to make it last longer, you'd need at least a 600mAh pack. Not terribly heavy, an ounce and a half or so, and you wouldn't need a fuel tank.. That's only 3 minutes of power, though.   How long do you want to fly? How long do you want the batteries to last? Larger would give you more air time and more charges before it wears out too. The motor might weigh an ounce to an ounce and a half, I think.

In a crash, put the battery someplace where it can't burn anything and let it sit for a while. If there's obvious damage, put a resistor across and discharge it fully so it's safe to dispose of. In our club, people often drive a nail through it instead, but this can get a little exciting and I don't necessarily recommend it! It's probably a good idea to have something fire resistant to put your batteries in, and to keep an eye on them at all times if charging indoors. I met a guy who lost his house and almost lost his grandmother that way.

Lincoln
not a CL flyer but have used some lipos
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duck.co.za
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« Reply #5 on: September 09, 2014, 07:43:14 AM »

Found some info on the Brodak site

1650kV on a 450mah2S pack swinging a 6X4 1/2A trainer
1780kV on a 850mah2S pack swinging a 6X4 or 6X5,5
1560kV on a 1300mah 3S pack swinging a 6X5,5 combat/stunt 

At some point I'll do a test with the motors I have . 
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