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Author Topic: AerowerksDPCmodels.com Peanut Hawker Typhoon  (Read 1400 times)
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Widdog
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« on: August 07, 2016, 08:59:11 AM »

Wow Supreme Models Peanut Hawker Typhoon.  Peanut Scale Flying Model With Updated Laser Cut Parts
                      Kit # 204
http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n636/widdog/20160807_075538.jpgy
AerowerksDPCmodels.com Peanut Hawker Typhoon
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Widdog
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« Reply #1 on: August 07, 2016, 12:06:43 PM »

Here is the Typhoon's sister model, AerowreksDPCmodels.com Peanut Corsair in flying action. Now that I know what electronics these kits like I am really going to put effort into making the model look good.  https://youtu.be/gIrtqxxZuTo
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skyraider
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« Reply #2 on: August 07, 2016, 12:50:44 PM »

Once again Keith, nice video of the Corsair.  Not too bad either on your C-130.
Well done!

Skyraider
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Widdog
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« Reply #3 on: August 07, 2016, 03:01:36 PM »

Thanks Skyraider.

This is a great Peanut Laser Cut kit. BTW I'm just a regular customer on this build. The only reward I have ever gotten from AerowreksDPCmodels.com is the privilege to be a Test Pilot on the Corsair Peanut build.
That was a blast of a fun kit to build.

http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n636/widdog/20160807_144359.jpg
AerowerksDPCmodels.com Peanut Hawker Typhoon
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Widdog
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« Reply #4 on: August 08, 2016, 12:43:49 PM »

I rough framed the rubber and elevator. Laser cut parts great. Also the kit wood is great.

http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n636/widdog/20160808_123401.jpg
AerowerksDPCmodels.com Peanut Hawker Typhoon
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Widdog
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« Reply #5 on: August 09, 2016, 12:58:57 PM »

I'm moving right along on this build.

   http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n636/widdog/20160809_124709.jpg
AerowerksDPCmodels.com Peanut Hawker Typhoon
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skyraider
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« Reply #6 on: August 09, 2016, 02:19:33 PM »

Looking good, Keith!  Saw one of the original Supreme kits
listed on ebay the other day. What type of glue are you using
for the wood parts?

Skyraider

PS: the Company is "DPCM/Aerowerkes" or just "Aerowerkes".
     Missing the "E" near the end.
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Widdog
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« Reply #7 on: August 09, 2016, 06:58:19 PM »

Thanks for pointing out my spelling mistake. Sorry about that.

I have three of the original Supreme Models kits. I have the Peanut kits FW190, Corsair and the Hawker Typhoon. Back in the day they where ok kits. However, Aerowerkes reproduction kits are so much better in many ways. First is  Corrected Laser Cut parts. They just didn't have that technology. Than there is the wood, instructions and canopy. Also they put the parts for a rubber motor.

I decided to make my Typhoon rubber power. This kit seems designed well for rubber.

For glue I use Super Glue (CA) for when I need fast drying. Mostly I use Elmer's Wood Glue. I attach and seal tissue with white glue and water mixture.
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Widdog
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« Reply #8 on: August 11, 2016, 07:23:56 PM »

Everything went together so well with the model that I finished it already.

Here is some hand wound trim footage. Yes the model does hit a tree but had no damage.

https://youtu.be/DG5h8I8mB9o

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skyraider
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« Reply #9 on: August 11, 2016, 07:43:37 PM »

Keith,
 The Typhoon looks great and the flights are getting better. The third
attempt seemed much more stable over distance. And its great to know
how fast you cranked it out from kit form to flight. Great job!! Keep having
more fun with it and keep us posted.

Skyraider
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Widdog
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« Reply #10 on: August 12, 2016, 07:53:41 PM »

I'm practicing my rubber power flying on this old PP Peanut Zero. I'm not there yet but I am getting better. I used a 4 3/4 " prop and one loop of 3/16" thick rubber. Tomorrow I will try a 6" prop with 1/8 " two loops.
Any advice would be appreciated.
   https://youtu.be/aQSYK72Ngbw

I am going to try to transfer what I learn to the Hawker Typhoon. 
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Crabby
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« Reply #11 on: August 13, 2016, 05:18:54 PM »

Keith, I seem to think your Typhoon likes the clockwise turn much better...
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« Reply #12 on: August 13, 2016, 06:38:13 PM »

I'm practicing my rubber power flying on this old PP Peanut Zero. I'm not there yet but I am getting better. I used a 4 3/4 " prop and one loop of 3/16" thick rubber. Tomorrow I will try a 6" prop with 1/8 " two loops.
Any advice would be appreciated.
   

FWIW, I built a Peck peanut scale Zero many years ago and had an awful time with it.  It would glide like an angel, but as soon as I put any power into the flight it banged around the sky like a bumble bee on crack.  I tried every trick I knew to get it straightened out and got nowhere.  Every trip to the field was an exercise in frustration, capped with a broken model.  Being a lot more stubborn than bright, I kept at it.  One day I realized that I'd changed everything on the model except the propeller.  As a field expedient, I took out my trusty Swiss Army knife and hacked off a bit of the prop tips.  There was an immediate improvement.  I kept hacking away and test flying and eventually got a flight that was as lovely a thing as a Free Flight modeler could ask for.  What started out as a Peck 6" ended up closer to 4.5" by the time the model was flying well. 

I don't know what your model weighs, but you might consider using the smaller prop with a loop of 1/8" rubber to cut down on the torque and get more turns. 

BTW, I'm lovin' that Typhoon!

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Widdog
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« Reply #13 on: August 13, 2016, 08:14:26 PM »

Thanks for the advice. Very interesting.

I was going to build the Typhoon for Electric Free Flight. It of course was originally designed for rubber power. I am going to order another one and make it EFF. With EFF I think the only problem I will have is keeping it from flying out of sight.

 I did build the Aerowerkes Corsair for EFF. I had ordered and received a second Corsair that I will make rubber powered.

Audax my Zero acts exactly the same way. I thought it might have to do with my nose block. I have a Guillow's Nose Button on a removable nose block. I probably should have used a PP Nose Button. After reading your post I am going to cut down a prop as well. I do have a question about the nose button. Should the nose button be glued in place on a removable nose block?

Keith
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Audax
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« Reply #14 on: August 15, 2016, 11:03:35 PM »


Audax my Zero acts exactly the same way. I thought it might have to do with my nose block. I have a Guillow's Nose Button on a removable nose block. I probably should have used a PP Nose Button. After reading your post I am going to cut down a prop as well. I do have a question about the nose button. Should the nose button be glued in place on a removable nose block?

Keith

I've become fanatical about keeping the noseblock assembly as wiggle free as possible.  I haven't used a Guillow style bearing in many years so I'm not sure what they look like now.  If they are the same ones they had in the old days, the rear end of the prop shaft has a lot of room to wander.  Hard to make a useful thrust adjustment if you don't know where you started!  I'd recommend a bearing that keeps the shaft pointing the the same direction no matter what the rubber motor is doing, and securely gluing it into the noseblock.  When I started doing that, I had a lot more success with my models.   
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